In addition to medicinal methods of treatment of aquarium fish, I still exist non-medicinal. The easiest and proven method of treatment is to resort to hyperthermia.
What is the essence of this method? The fact is that the majority of pathogens of various diseases originate from cold European water bodies, and they, as a rule, do not tolerate a rise in water temperature above 30 degrees Celsius. For example, the simplest hilodonella, apisomes, trihodins will die in a few days if the water temperature rises to 33 degrees.
If you still raise the temperature, the number of dead parasites sharply reduced.
But at the same time, when you increase the temperature of the water, you should know that it can only be raised to a certain value, after overcoming the permissible limit, the protective functions of the body of aquarium fish begin to be inhibited, which in some cases can be fatal.
The dependence between the state of the fish on temperature increase is due to several factors. The first factor is the specific features of hydrobionts.
Those fish that in the process of evolution lived in reservoirs with warm water are more resistant to the increase in its temperature in aquarium conditions. For example, the brown discus from Brazilian waters and Pantodon from Africa, where the water temperature reaches 30 degrees Celsius, calmly tolerate an increase in water temperature to 33 – 34 degrees.
But with a disco-perch a somewhat different situation, as it comes from the waters of North America, where the water temperature rarely rises above 23 degrees. If you treat perch with hyperthermia, then you are guaranteed to condemn fish to death. However, there are exceptions among such hydrobionts.
For example, Elassoma evergladei prefers a water temperature in the range of 15 to 22 degrees, and can sometimes withstand short-term drops to 5 degrees, and can withstand water temperatures of 32 degrees for several days without any harm.
In nature, there are fish with which a priori there are no problems. For example, Brachygobius xanthozona, lives quietly at a temperature of 40 degrees Celsius.
Such a high temperature makes it possible to fight with the majority of parasites and diseases, even with those against which they have not yet invented a cure and effective methods of treatment.
When you treat fish in a hyperthermic manner, in which the temperature regime is above 33 degrees, you must take into account the factor of adaptation to the regime. If fish are kept under certain temperature conditions, hydrobionts gradually begin to adapt to certain conditions. If any deviations occur, they can adversely affect the condition of the aquarium inhabitants.
However, the limits of adaptation, as a rule, are due to the species peculiarities of the fish, respectively, for cold-water fish, the method of hyperthermia is simply unacceptable.
The third factor that determines the level of success of applying the method of hyperthermia is the conditions in which the fish are processed. Water must be compulsory fresh, clean and aerated, because as the temperature rises, the amount of dissolved oxygen decreases dramatically, and the need for it in fish greatly increases.
Without increased aeration hyperthermia you ordered.
The temperature of the water in the aquarium should rise in stages and gradually, in some cases, you even have to keep the temperature for several days at the same level before the next increase. It should also decrease gradually and without sharp fluctuations.
During processing, it is better to cover the aquarium with glass, because at high temperatures, the most nimble fish tend to jump out of the aquarium.
About 20-30 years ago, incandescent lamps equipped with a reflector, which were installed near the side walls, were used in small aquariums (10–20 liters). Now this issue is solved much easier, as the aquarium art and aquatowers have stepped towards civilization and lovers are getting by with small heaters.
The method of ozonation is based on the fact that in the molecule the oxygen atoms are weakly bound, which leads to its subsequent decomposition, since the molecule has a high oxidative capacity. Just this feature is used to neutralize the pathogens of aquarium fish.
In addition to hyperthermia, ozonation is considered to be the most successful and frequently used method for treating pets, since during the decay of the ozone molecule only oxygen is released into the water. Due to the fact that ozone is highly soluble in water, it saturates the aquarium water in the proper amount.
But, you must take into account the high oxidative ability of ozone and do not allow the presence in the aquarium metal parts inventory.
In addition, in no case should the ozonized air be supplied with a sprayer to a heavily populated aquarium, because this can cause chemical burns of the skin and destruction of the epidermis in aquatic plants. In addition, you should remember that even indirect ozone supply has a negative effect on almost all aquatic plants: very often after ozone therapy, plants get sick and die.
Accordingly, ozonation is best done in a separate container, incubators and spawning.
For ozonation, you can use industrial ozonizers and homemade ones, which work on the principle of high-frequency electric discharges. Produced ozone is fed into the aquarium with the air through a compressor.
Just remember, the compressor must be installed in front of the ozonizer: if the air is not forced into the ozonizer and sucked off by the compressor, then its rubber diaphragms will quickly deteriorate.
It is best to apply air through a filter that uses exclusively glass and other inert materials. The duration of the ozonizers depends on the performance of the device and the volume of the aquarium.
Accordingly, the ozonation mode must be set for each individual case and begin with 10 minutes at 2 times treatment. The multiplicity and duration of treatments can be increased, but on condition that you will control the condition of the aquarium and the behavior of the fish.
In addition, you should understand that an excessive concentration of ozone in an aquarium is detrimental for both pathogens and aquatic organisms.
Alternatively, you can saturate the water in a separate container, and then pour it into a populated aquarium. Only in this case, the ozone solution is prepared immediately before pouring into the aquarium, because it is quickly inactivated.
In addition to the positive qualities, ozonation has its negative aspects. In addition to pathogens of aquarium fish, putrefactive bacteria and blue-green algae, ozone also destroys beneficial microorganisms (non-parasitic ciliates, rotifers, bryozoans).
Accordingly, after ozone treatment, the biological balance in the aquarium can be shaken.