As you know, there are only four skin types: dry, normal, combination and oily. Among Russians, the most common is combined skin with a tendency to fat (in this case, only the T-zone glistens from an excess of sebum, and other areas may be prone to dryness). This type occurs in about 60% of women.
About 20% of our ladies have oily skin, about 10% – normal and as much – dry.
The type of our skin is determined by genetics. Trying to “cure” oily skin is like trying to change the color of your eyes from blue to brown.
Only sudden hormone jumps (during illness or pregnancy) or taking strong medications (for example, oral retinoids) can affect it. With age, or rather the onset of the menopause period, the skin may become drier, but this is not due to a change in type as such, but with a decrease in the rate of general metabolism, which will inevitably affect the face (i.e., the sebum will be produced in the same volume, as in youth, but much slower). Also, the skin type does not depend on the time of year and day, but for its condition, these factors are very important.
Surely you noticed that the appearance may change several times a day, in response to external and internal factors? It is the state of dehydration, which inevitably provokes heating and a cold wind in winter, often taken for dryness. All these nuances must be considered when selecting skin care.
It is necessary to proceed from its type, condition and needs, and not the weather outside the window.
A competent home care system includes three steps:
- Cleansing (preferably two-step: washing and tonic lotion).
- Effective care (fillers, serums and other highly concentrated products).
- Moisturizing and nourishing (cream).
Each of them has its own tasks. Cleansing (with gel, foam, milk or micellar water) removes not only makeup and street dust, but sebum and waste products of cells. That is why it is necessary to wash twice a day, in the morning and in the evening, even if today you did not apply makeup or did not leave the house at all.
For some reason, toning lotion is considered to be an optional means of care. Meanwhile, the tonic performs several important functions at once. First of all, this is what we call toning and what essentially is the restoration of normal skin pH, which changes under the influence of the environment (namely, due to the normalization of acid-base balance, the person is so comfortable after applying lotion).
The second point is the purification of the skin. Tonic removes the remnants of washing and prepares it for the application of the cream, improving absorption and penetration into the tissue. Cosmetologists say that all three steps are necessary for the best results.
But if the skin as a whole feels good, caring for it may well include only cleansing and cream. Explicit problems – pronounced wrinkles, inflammation, dull complexion – require the connection of “heavy artillery”, i.e., concentrated treatments.
Consultation with a specialist when choosing a care product is very desirable in the presence of pathologies (current or in history), allergies or individual intolerance to individual components of cosmetics, very sensitive skin (it is also called hypersensitive or fragile). When there are no pronounced dermatological problems, you can purchase a cream or serum yourself, guided by the following principles:
- Skin type Yes, there are products “for all” and “from everything”, but it is better if the cream is selected individually. Can’t determine the type yourself? Consult a specialist. It will be enough to do it once: after a year or two, something is unlikely to change drastically.
- Condition: sensitivity, dehydration, tendency to acne. The skin condition is variable, and this factor must be considered!
- The desired effect – what exactly do you want to adjust or maintain with cosmetics (pick up the color, cope with wrinkles, tighten the shape of the face).
Well, if you can try the cream and make sure that the texture is like, but the smell does not “smother”. Serious manufacturers of cosmetics usually produce special test samples for such purposes.
Evaluating the work of the cream earlier than after three months of use is meaningless: the dermis simply does not have time to renew in such a short time, and you will not see the result. If the wrinkles have not smoothed out in two weeks – do not run to change the product, but be patient.
Moisturizing treatments work faster (their activity only occurs in the epidermis) – the fruits of their work are noticeable in a month. In the meantime, the following points may hint at the need to revisit a store or pharmacy:
- Burning, redness or itching that appeared within an hour and a half after applying the product. Probably due to an allergic reaction or idiosyncrasy. Such care should be changed immediately. The same symptoms that appear after 3-4 weeks after regular use, most likely, are not related to the cream, but are due to other reasons.
- The texture is not absorbed, rolls or forms a film on the face, even if the care is caused by all the rules. Most likely, the product is not matched to the type of skin (for example, for oily, but dehydrated skin, you use an oil-based product) and its texture is not absorbed by the tissues. In such cases, you need to choose a cream, after consulting with a professional.
- After 1-3 months of application, the cream not only did not begin to solve the problem, but also aggravated it: for example, the dryness became more intense, and the inflammation spread to new areas. Perhaps the point is again in the wrong care.
- The product unexpectedly changed the texture, flavor, color. Most likely, the cream was stored improperly and just spoiled.
Finally, the three most popular questions about makeup cosmetics.
1. Is it possible to use one remedy both in the morning and in the evening?
Yes, if the product was originally declared as universal and does not contain purely “day” or “night” components (SPF or retinol). Some moisturizers or, for example, treatments for atopic skin are just such generalists.
However, the processes occurring in the skin in the morning and in the evening are very different from each other, and the cream should ideally correspond to the biorhythms of the tissues. Night care is aimed at regeneration and recovery, while day care is primarily aimed at protecting and increasing resistance to external adverse factors. A universal product will not be able to provide the skin with such synergy.
If, for any reason, it is not possible to purchase two separate products, it is better to buy only day cream without SPF and use it twice a day. With the night, such a manipulation will not work: its texture is more gliding and nourishing, city dust readily sticks to it, therefore it is not very comfortable during the day; besides, it is almost impossible to put makeup on a night cream.
2. Is it possible to combine care products of different lines?
Products of different lines (and even brands) can be combined, while respecting the rule – textures should not be mixed either in the skin or on the skin. That is, washing with gel of one brand, and then using a cream of another brand is permissible, but it is better not to combine serum and cream of different manufacturers.
The result can be unpredictable, because no one has checked what kind of chemical reaction is possible when they interact in the deep layers of the skin. It is better to dilute such treatments in time, for example, cream in the morning, and serum in the evening. Combine two rulers of the same brand can be almost unlimited, applying anti-wrinkle cream to age spots on the serum from pigment spots.
But, of course, a combination of the same range of treatments will give a faster and more vivid result, since all the components are chosen so as to enhance the effect of each other.
3. How often is it permissible to change care products?
There is no need for a constant change of stamps. The popular opinion that skin gets used to cosmetics is nothing more than a replicated myth. It is constantly updated and can not get used to the cream at the physiological level.
Of course, the effect of the cream gradually stabilizes, and after a year we do not see such a vivid result as in the first months. But if the scale is suitable and the means please, they can be used indefinitely. You should think about changing the product in the following cases:
- You “grew up” from the old (for example, you noticed that the mimic wrinkles were replaced by completely formed deep folds).
- The condition of the skin and its needs changed (after a trip to the south or a year without leave, it became dehydrated and dull or, on the contrary, uncharacteristic rashes appeared).
- The soul (and therefore the skin) asks for something new.