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Hyaluronic acid, collagen, glycerin and keratins: what are these substances capable of?

Hyaluronic acid, collagen, glycerin and keratins: what are these substances capable of?

We all have heard about the hyaluronic acid talents, but what is it really capable of? They say that it perfectly moisturizes the skin, so you can meet it in almost every cosmetic product.

If you call for help chemistry, it turns out that this is one of the main substances of the dermis and connective tissue, from which, among other things, collagen fibers are built. But hyaluronic acid molecules are rather large in size, therefore, when applied externally to the skin, they are not absorbed, but remain on the surface.

To penetrate into the layers of the dermis and bring the maximum benefit this substance can only with a syringe. Then hyaluronic acid works wonders: among the moisturizing ingredients it has no equal. When applied externally, it creates a temporary film on the surface of the skin that prevents moisture from evaporating until it is washed off.

And this quality is also valuable. True, only for the age and dehydrated dermis.

If the skin is oily or prone to rashes, the film creates an additional breeding ground for bacteria, and this is not comme il faut. And hyaluronic acid can visually smooth out wrinkles: when applying a cream, large molecules fill the microcracks and pores mechanically purely, creating the effect of a “smooth surface”.

Currently, science knows 19 types of collagen. In our body, this is the main substance of connective tissue.

According to its purpose and properties, collagen resembles glue. His mission is to bond cellular structures.

In the dermis, according to the same principle, collagen forms a grid, which creates the effect of a spring and determines the degree of skin elasticity. The older we get, the more we need it, because with age, the elasticity of the tissues decreases.

However, as in the case of hyaluronic acid, collagen can only be ingested with a syringe. External application gives only a slight cosmetic effect, which lasts until the first wash. Collagen also creates a film on the surface of the dermis, but the smoothing effect is achieved due to its adhesive properties.

This is especially noticeable on dry skin: ruffled scales instantly smoothed, and we immediately feel a big difference.

In recent years, everyone speaks about peptides everywhere, and someone even calls them “natural Botox.” It is a pity that chemists are so easily able to destroy this promising illusion. Peptides are small proteins with a short amino acid chain.

They are of three types. Oligopeptides in their chains have more than 10 links, polypeptides – less than 10, and tripeptides – 3. It is really important to know if you do not want to cater to the marketing networks. Smart names create a reputation and add “high technology”, but the essence does not change.

In addition, all three types of skin accepts with gratitude, even if applied to the surface, and here’s why. Peptides are bioregulators that participate in all metabolic processes.

Their main task is to stimulate all the most important functions of our body. In cosmetology, they are used to enhance the metabolic processes directly in the cells of the dermis.

The most famous peptides are argillerin and matrixil. The first one brought the glory of “natural botox” to all its brethren. In fact, Bolex argillerin is not a competitor, but an assistant: when Botox is already injected, creams with this class of peptides perfectly enhance its effect and significantly prolong the result obtained after injection.

Matriksil has outstanding protective and antioxidant properties. Conclusion: the peptides for the skin are very good, the main thing is that in the list of ingredients they stand in 3rd or 4th place.

Ambiguous talk about glycerin, but if you rely on your own feelings, the result is stunning: skin changes instantly, it becomes smooth and delicate, like a baby’s. And yet this is the case when one cannot trust one’s own eyes and receptors.

Glycerin is a triatomic alcohol, one molecule of which attracts 10 water molecules. It would seem that exactly what we need to moisturize the dermis. But the funds with glycerin work in our favor only in Bali, the Bahamas or the Seychelles.

It’s all about air humidity. When it is above 60–70 percent, as in the tropics, glycerin perfectly moisturizes the upper layers of the skin, and “water” pulls it out of the external environment. When the humidity level is lower, as in our mid-latitudes, it turns into a time bomb.

Especially in winter, when we are attacked by cold and dry air in heated areas. According to objective sensations, glycerin also moisturizes the upper layer of the dermis and makes it silky, but secretly from us its molecules take water from the deep layers of the dermis, draining them.

And the more often the glycerin cream is used, the drier the “bowels” become, which are responsible for the beauty and elasticity of the skin. In order not to harm yourself, in our climate it is better to use creams with glycerin only in the summer period in the company with thermal water.

In this case, the person during the day should be irrigated at least three times.

The action of oils tested for centuries. In their concentrated formula, the experience and wisdom of ancient peoples accumulated over thousands of years is reflected.

Oils moisturize and nourish the skin, protect it from ultraviolet radiation, smooth wrinkles, but their most important skill is to create a protective lipid barrier on the skin, which in itself is very fragile. Anything can destroy “armor”, from the mechanical impact of the simplest scrub or washcloth to too caustic soap or alcohol tonic. Butter can quickly patch these gaps, because they contain the main building material – amino acids.

It is only important to know a couple of tricks. Oils should be used as a mask, leaving them on the skin for 15 minutes. In the summer – once a week, in the winter – two.

If you use them instead of cream, it will be harder to breathe. Before applying a few drops of oil, it is better to warm them in the palm of your hand, and to enhance the effect, put a well-wrung towel soaked in hot water from above.

There are legends about vitamin C, and he deserved this glory. We are dealing with the main catalyst that is involved in all chemical reactions in our body.

But it has one drawback: it collapses very quickly on contact with oxygen. This means that the stated dose of vitamin C in the cream is not easy to preserve and guarantee. At least the bottle with this wonderful component will have to be stored with the lid tightly closed in a dark place.

The other two vitamins, A and E, are more resistant and no less important for the skin. The first activates cell division, the second acts as a powerful antioxidant. Professional cosmetologists say that this couple is best at combating the signs of aging skin.

With their regular use, you can see real positive changes, because both vitamins can penetrate into the deep layers of the dermis. True, provided that in the composition of the cream they will not be at the very end of the list.

But you can go to the trick: to buy in the pharmacy vitamin E capsules and add it to one drop per serving of the basic care cream before each application. Please note that vitamin A is differently called retinol, and the term “retinoids” is the common name for the structural analogs of vitamin A. They all have similar properties.

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