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What you need for aquarium

maintenance, care, compatibility

❶ What you need for an aquarium :: an aquarium that you need :: Aquarium fish

Have you purchased an aquarium and are in a hurry to choose fish for it? However, before populating the underwater world, provide future tenants with everything you need.

Make a list of what you need to buy, and go to a large pet store, where you will be helped to equip the aquarium in full accordance with your wishes.

The question “opened a pet store. Business is not going. What to do? “- 2 answers

Home aquarium can be freshwater or saltwater, landscape or recreating the fauna of a particular region, very large and very compact. The content of the future home water reservoir and the choice of its inhabitants depend on the general idea.

Beginners easier to start with a freshwater landscape aquarium with several types of ornamental fish. The most convenient rectangular shape mounted on a special cabinet.

They are stable and roomy enough.

Artificial reservoir needs a filtration system and aeration of water. Capacity of the compressor depends on the volume of the aquarium and the number of its inhabitants.

A consultant in a specialized pet store can help with the choice of a particular model – he will select the best option for each specific aquarium. There are also models with built-in life support systems.

The next important point is the acquisition of soil and plants. They can be natural or artificial.

Living algae eat fish and quickly lose their decorative effect. In addition, they decompose and spoil the water.

Choosing live plants, be prepared to monitor their condition, and, if necessary, transplant or replace. Artificial flora looks natural, beautiful and safe for fish.

From time to time it will have to be cleaned of debris and sediment – that’s all the trouble with plastic algae ends.

No aquarium can do without decorative elements – caves, grottoes, picturesque ruins. They serve as natural shelters for fish and enliven the underwater landscape.

You should not buy anything you like – choose castles, figurines and shells that correspond to the general idea of ​​design and leave enough space for the fish. Before buying, study the future scenery – they should be non-toxic, not have too narrow cracks, which can get the inhabitants of the aquarium and sharp elements, which they can hurt.
Buy useful companions – snails, ensuring the cleanliness of the aquarium in a natural way. They will clean the glass, plants and soil from the plaque, remove the traces of fish and the remnants of their food.

Besides, these creatures look very cute. If you purchased live plants, check if your chosen snails are feeding on them.
Get an arsenal of small items to maintain the aquarium. You will need rubber hoses for changing water, a glass tube for removing debris from the bottom, a scraper for cleaning the glass, nets for catching fish and a tank for transplanting them. Do not forget about food for future inhabitants.

The most practical is to purchase ready-made fortified universal mix – it is suitable for most breeds.
And finally, the most interesting is the choice of fish. Do not buy all the copies you like – the number of future residents depends on the volume of the aquarium. Note that some breeds are incompatible with each other.

Before going to the store, study the specialized literature, make a tentative list of future tenants, and in the pet store, make adjustments to it with the help of a sales assistant.

Small consider aquariums less than 30-40 liters, usually from 5 to 20 liters. Often they are called nano aquariums (from the Greek nano – “small, tiny, dwarf”), emphasizing with this term not only size, but also their modernity and manufacturability. There are also microaquariums, their capacity is 1-2 liters, and animals do not lodge in them, with the exception of some species of snails. The world’s smallest aquarium with fish was created by Omsk miniaturist Anatoly Konenko and his son Stanislav.

They placed in 10 ml of water a primer, a specially designed mini-compressor, small cladofor bushes and a few danio fry.

We will immediately agree that we will not call a round ten-liter jar with a goldfish a nano-aquarium because it is not an aquarium, but a mockery of fish and all the principles of aquarism.

An aquarium, no matter how large, is an equilibrium biological system whose inhabitants feel comfortable.

To achieve this in a small amount is a whole science. But, if this is possible, the results can be simply amazing.

Such aquariums, where a living biotope is reproduced in a tiny volume, resemble Japanese bonsai art or large-scale models of luxury cars: small ones, but everything is real.

Of course, not all small aquariums are worthy of aquascaping competitions or books of records, but each of them should please the eye of its owner and create a comfortable environment for its inhabitants.

Care of a mini aquarium

As for the maintenance of the aquarium of small size, here you can get under the influence of stereotypes. Often, parents buy aquariums for their children, considering that a small aquarium is easier to clean than a large one.

Rather, the “underwater world” of small size is subject to temperature changes and requires frequent water changes.

If water is rarely changed, the waste products of fish begin to accumulate on the walls and it will be rather difficult to clean the container with your hands. In addition, the slightest excess feed, stale at the bottom of such an aquarium, instantly spoils the water and shifts the biological equilibrium. But if you decide to start a small aquarium, get it “fully loaded.”

Specialists will select all the necessary equipment for lighting, water filtration and water heating. And, despite the equipment, place the aquarium in a room whose temperature is constant.

With such a small amount of water, a drop of even 1-2 degrees negatively affects the fish. When feeding fish, give off a small amount of food so that after feeding there will be no leftovers. Remove excess feed immediately.

When caring for an aquarium, you will have to carry out frequent water changes, until the bacteria stabilize their numbers in the filter.

Bacteria convert waste decomposition products into safe substances. A stock of settled water should always be at your disposal.

Water in the aquarium should be changed every three to four days, replacing at least a quarter of the volume of water in a small aquarium.

To prevent algae, an aquarium should not be placed close to the window. Direct sunlight should not fall on it, and the duration of the active daylight should be smoothly increased from six hours immediately after the arrangement of the aquarium to ten hours by the time the biological equilibrium is stabilized.

If you decide to start an aquarium, then the question inevitably arises before you: what is needed for normal functioning of the aquarium, what minimum equipment should be purchased to make the fish feel comfortable.

Do I need a filter in the aquarium?

Unfortunately, an aquarium is not a closed and self-sufficient system, and the water in it must be constantly cleaned, otherwise it will quickly bloom and become cloudy. Filter – this is one of the most necessary devices for the long-term maintenance of fish.

If you have a small aquarium up to 60 liters, then the best option would be to buy an internal filter, for larger tanks of 200, 300 and even 500 liters, an external filter is simply needed, which has a more elaborate cleaning system and is easy to maintain.

Do I need light in the aquarium?

So, what else besides the filter you need for a home aquarium and should also be purchased in advance. Many experienced fish owners recommend never relying on sunlight or putting a container of water under direct sunlight. So the water will deteriorate quickly, and its temperature will jump during the day.

But the twilight is also not the most favorable conditions for the life of the inhabitants of the aquarium. Therefore, it is simply necessary to purchase a suitable aquarium lamp or lamp that will provide a comfortable environment.

Do I need a compressor in the aquarium?

Finally, the third necessary device in the aquarium is a compressor that provides water saturation with oxygen. Compressors are of two types: internal and external.

External do not occupy space inside the aquarium, but when working they are quite noisy, internal ones are quiet, but they take up a lot of space inside the aquarium.

Do I need a heater in the aquarium?

The decision of this question depends on what types of fish you are going to contain. If this is a thermophilic and capricious tropical species, it is better to get a modern water heater for an aquarium that will maintain a constant water temperature.

For more stable fish, you can first bring the water to the required room temperature, which will continue to persist. What you really need is a thermometer that will show vibrations, and you will not be able to respond to them in time.

For nano aquariums up to 20 liters, not everyone wants to contact the balloon CO2 installation. You can make a CO2 generator in Braga or soda.

But you can do it easier. There is an ancient and undeservedly forgotten method of supplying CO2 — this is the use of soda water.

Sparkling water is a kind of carbon dioxide concentrate already dissolved in water.

The CO2 content in the soda is usually about 5000-10000 mg / l, and after opening the bottle it tends to 1450 mg / l. If you count how much carbonated water is needed to bring the CO2 concentration in the aquarium to 10 mg / l, it turns out to be quite economical.

Fresh soda needs only 20 ml per 10 l of aquarium water, which will give 10 mg / l CO2 in the aquarium. Simply in the morning to soda with fertilizers.

After standing, soda can be added in large quantities, as carbon dioxide disappears.

Approximately 1 liter of soda will be enough for a 10-20 liters aquarium for a month. Any sparkling water will fit, of course, except saline. It is better to use the cheapest.

They are usually made from tap water :). Greater than 10 mg / l is better not to bring the concentration of CO2 by this method.

First, it is not known how much carbon dioxide your soda contains is 5000 mg / l or 10000 mg / l. Secondly, large fluctuations in the concentration of CO2 in the aquarium are not desirable. After adding soda, the concentration will gradually decrease due to the consumption of aquarium plants.

Constant fluctuations of CO2 from 10 mg / l to zero and back are not terrible. But fluctuations from 20-30mg / l to zero are much worse for balance in an aquarium.

  • there is no need for a CO2 dissolution reactor and a bubble counter, since CO2 is already dissolved in sparkling water;
  • ease of use;
  • economical in the short term;
  • convenient for nano aquariums.
  • unstable concentration of CO2 in the aquarium;
  • the price of 1 gram of CO2 is the highest of the listed methods, that is uneconomical in the long run and for large-scale aquariums;
  • low CO2 supply compared to other methods.

Some practical tips:

For most plants, including rare and difficult, only a small CO2 feeding is sufficient; better underfeed than overfeed. Try to keep the indicator in the green zone.

However, if you suddenly discover that the indicator has turned yellow or completely discolored, there is no reason to panic.

co2 for aquarium

If there is nothing wrong with the fish, you don’t need to change the water, you can remove the bottle and send it to the refrigerator for a while, the plants will gradually absorb the excess carbon dioxide, watch the fish, indicators often go off scale in my aquariums, but not a single death of fish – for CO2 poisoning was not.

When optimal saturation conditions are found, it makes no sense to cut off the carbon dioxide supply for the night, a small morning excess of CO2 will be selected by plants in the evening, this mode repeats daily variations in the gas composition and Ph in natural water bodies and has a beneficial effect on the growth of all plants.

IMPORTANT: when using external filters or filters of other models as a reactor, do not in any case supply CO2 to the filter elements. CO2 should be supplied only AFTER all fillers, otherwise the microflora inhabiting the filter materials may die.

When reloading the bottle, do not hang the free end of the tube from the edge of the aquarium – the filter pressure can drive the water over the edge and it will flow to the floor.

If you are forgetful, I do not advise to use the clamping wheel on the dropper tube as well. If you close it for a long time during fermentation, the increased pressure inside can break the bottle.

Do not put the bottle on the warm lamp of the aquarium – fermentation will go too intensively and will end in a short time.

If your farm has several aquariums, I advise you to provide each of them with their own personal bottle. In my household there are different aquariums with a capacity of 150 to 400 liters, I recharge all the bottles at once, about once every 10-15 days.

Controls for the carbon dioxide content in the aquarium.

To control the supply of CO2 in an aquarium, there is actually one way to measure acidity (PH) and carbonate hardness (CN), followed by determining the concentration of CO2 in water using the table Table carbon dioxide content in an aquarium (CO2, CO2). It is somewhat more convenient to do this procedure with the calculator calculator.php # j One feature is in our calculator, when entering the PH value, you need to use a decimal point as a decimal place.

co2 for aquarium

  • Based on the same principle, the use of drop checker (QH). DF is a container, in one part of which the reference indicator solution is filled with water from KN 4, to which an indicator has been added, an analogue of the PH test. The second part of the tank is open and aquarium water flows into it. Both parts of the tank are designed in such a way that there is always an air cushion between the indicator solution and the aquarium water. A kind of “siphon vice versa.”
  • When the concentration of CO2 in the aquarium water increases, a part of it goes out of it into an air cushion, leveling the partial pressure of CO2 in the water and the air above it. At the same time, CO2 is dissolved in the indicator solution, also equalizing the partial pressure. As a result, the concentration of CO2 in the aquarium water and in the indicator solution becomes the same.
  • With a change in the concentration of CO2 in the indicator solution, its pH also changes, to which the indicator responds by changing color. By its color and can be judged on the concentration of CO2. When reducing the concentration of CO2 in water, everything happens in reverse order. This is a permanent test for PH Drop Checker with your own hands (DIY CO2 Drop Checker).
  • A very convenient device with one significant drawback, until all the above processes are completed, it takes 2-3 hours, the time delay of the QH. During this time, you can put all the fish. Therefore, I would recommend using tests and a calculator at the stage of gas supply development to have “instantaneous” values, and use the QH for general control in the already established mode.
    Bubble counter.
    To track the amount of CO2 entering the aquarium, a bubble counter is used – a small transparent tank filled with water and embedded into the gas supply line. CO2 passing through it is visually observed in the form of bubbles passing through the water at equal intervals from one another. Selling CO2 balloon equipment, diffusers (St. Petersburg) (fifth photo to the left, seventh photo to the right). Again, I don’t understand why to pay, when you could just as well take a drip filter for this purpose))).
  • It is advisable to put a check valve under the bubble counter, so that in the event of a gas pressure drop, the water does not flow down the tube. The check valve should also be placed in front of a rowan branch or a diffuser in the aquarium. Non-return valve in the carbon dioxide supply system for the aquarium
    -Pearling is a bubbling plant. A somewhat subjective method of controlling the CO2 content in an aquarium.
  • However, the fact remains that an experienced aquarist, knowing the chemical composition of the water in his aquarium and his own lighting, may well make a fairly accurate conclusion about the concentration of CO2 in the water. Moreover, different plants react to it differently.
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