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What kind of algae aquarium

maintenance, care, compatibility

Algae in an aquarium, how to get rid of and fight with all their species


An algal flash is a visual indication of a violation (absence) of a biobalance in an aquarium. This is the loss of any link in the balance!

Finding out what link fell, you need to return it to its place. What a newbie to do is hard!
Here are the main reasons for the loss of the biobalance link:
– excessive amount of daylight in the aquarium or wrong aquarium lighting mode. Accordingly, it is necessary to reduce or adjust daylight hours.

Or in general, if possible, turn off the light for a couple of days, as a preventive measure.
– lack of daylight or the use of “wrong” lamps with a “wrong” spectrum. Accordingly, it is necessary to increase the light day or remove the lamps with a “bad” spectrum and you need to buy lamps for the spectrum or purchase lamps for the missing spectrum.

Read more Lighting aquarium and the choice of lamps and Lighting aquarium do it yourself.
– the presence in the aquarium of excess dead organic matter and dirt (dead plants, fish, food residues, kakul, etc.). Simply put, the aquarium does not have time to cope with so much “garbage” and the only way out of our beloved, living aquarium, is a call to help algae, who happily gobble up all this byaku.
Accordingly, it is necessary to remove all the “garbage”: siphon the bottom of the aquarium, clean the walls, decor and equipment, mechanically try to remove the algae, as well as make more frequent and more complete water changes for fresh, eventually, pour aquarium coal into the filter compartment.
– The following reason follows from the above and is a destructive continuation of the “dirt” in the aquarium. All dead organics are decomposed by beneficial bacteria and fungi, and removed from the aquarium. If this dead organic matter a lot and it accumulates, the microorganisms do not have time to process it!

In the aquarium, poisons begin to accumulate – decomposition products: ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, which leads not only to the appearance of algae, but generally ruins all life in the aquarium.
In addition to the above measures for thorough cleaning of the aquarium, you need to apply the following aquarium chemistry:

A) Zeolite. Sold in pet stores or other places.

For example, a mixture of zeolite and coal is ubiquitous. Fluval Zeo-Carb.
On a note: you need to know that aquarium coal is not effective from poisons and only ion-exchange resin – zeolite removes them. Read more …
B) Preparations of bio-starters, as well as preparations promoting the increase of colonies of beneficial bacteria. Simply put, these are drugs that contain the very bacteria that decompose poisons.

A lot of such drugs, for example, are popular: Tetra Bactozym, Tetra NitratMinus, Tetra NitrateMinus Pearls, Sera bio Nitrivec and others.
3. A large number of plants in the aquarium.

No one has scientifically proved that plants suppress algae, but the fact remains that in an aquarium with live aquarium plants (1/2, 2/3), there are no algal outbreaks, except greenish dots sometimes appear, and then from strong illumination.
Here is an example from my own experience. I had a herbalist for growth (I grew plants for the future of an aquascape), there were many different plants.

The time has come, I made my scape, spread out plants and flooded some algae (algae) in it, and this is all because the aquarium is young, the plants have not gotten stronger after transplantation, and their number has decreased. The time passed, the plants grew stronger and took over the lower ones and the thread disappeared.
Therefore, if you have the opportunity to provide plants with proper care: LIGHT, CO2, PLE – surely plant beds!

4. There are useful fish that fight – eat algae and algal plaque:
A) Siamese Algae Eaters – tireless workers of the aquarium, sometimes it seems that the only meaning of their life is the insatiable desire to kiss all the plants, suck all the stones and walk through all the aquarium decorations. They can still be found under the abbreviation SAE, which stands for Siamese Algae Eater and translates as Siamese algae.

There are also KAE and IAE – Chinese and Indian algae. Effective from algae “black beard”, “filament” and “deer horns”, etc.
B) Ototsinklyus – no less effective fish. Due to the structure of its mouth gently and well remove algae from plants, decor and walls.

Copes with green, brown (diatoms), etc.
B) Ancistrus– also helpful. But, unlike the aforementioned fish, adult antsistrus individuals are lazy.

And they say that in addition to algae, they chew and plants.
D) The whole family is also a good helper in the fight against algae. petsilievyh – guppies, swordtails, mollies, patcilia and others.
D) All possible clams. – apularias, coils, fizy, etc.
5. And finally, the aquarium chemistry will come to the rescue, the overwhelming algae. In pet stores sold a lot of these drugs, as a rule, in their name they contain the word “Algo” (alga), for example, Tetra AlgoStop Depot.

Use these drugs should be carefully, wisely and according to the instructions. I recommend Tetra products precisely because they have the mildest effect.

With proper applications – taking into account all the circumstances in the aquarium, Tetra preparations do not adversely affect the plants.

So, we have examined the main causes of the appearance of algae in the aquarium, as well as dismantled the main methods of dealing with them. Finally, it should be noted that, as a rule, “algal trouble comes in a complex”, and therefore it is necessary to deal with it in a complex, i.e. not one method, but several at once, if not all at once.
Algae in the aquarium – know the enemy in the face!

Alga Edogonium
photo of thread in the aquarium

This is the most common type of filamentous algae that attack an aquarium. At first it looks like green down, then like long green strings. When they occur, it is recommended to apply the above described methods of control.

As well as in the literature it is noted that this alga appears due to the lack of macro elements. Surprisingly, in particular, phosphates and nitrates (of which everything is derived). There is a positive effect when adding them.

In advanced cases, algicidal preparations are used.

Kladofora (popularly known as Kladofora thread)


It has branching and does not have long strings. As a rule, it appears in aquariums with poor filtration, poor water flow and the presence of stagnation zones, where it “blooms”.
It is possible to get rid of it by eliminating negative factors, by mechanical means (by hand) and algicide.
Spirogyra
This seaweed is very nasty and not only because it is slimy and green, but also because it grows with a geometric progression. It is difficult to withdraw – neither algaecide, nor SAE will help. It is difficult, but you can defeat it mechanically: by manual selection, by rubbing it with your fingers (it is fragile), by pulling out from the bottom.

As an additional measure of struggle helps: killing the light, fish and algae shrimp.
Rizoklonium

It can also be attributed to filamentous algae, because has a filamentous structure. As a rule, it appears in young aquariums, where the biobalance is not yet set up, which can be identically called the nitrogen cycle.

This is not such a terrible seaweed! It actually disappears after the establishment / restoration of the biobalance in the aquarium. Applies to it, all common methods of struggle are effective.

Most effective: water change and algaecide.

Plants in an aquarium perform not only the role of a decorative, exotic element, but also bear a number of useful and necessary functions. They contribute to the biological equilibrium of water, its enrichment with oxygen, metabolism, purification from harmful substances that appear in the process of vital activity of fish, as well as from the residue of decomposed food.

Living algae for the aquarium are both useful and harmful. Useful types of algae in aquariums or harmless ones are green, brown and quartz.

Dangerous species of algae for the aquarium are blue-green or red – they quickly adapt, and because of them instantly the water begins to bloom.

Depending on what kind of algae got into the aquarium, you should either fight them or simply control their number.

Plant the plants correctly

Many people confuse algae with aquarium plants. Therefore, when asked how to plant algae in an aquarium, the answer is one – plants should be planted, algae enter the aquarium in the form of spores, with live fish food or with new plants.

How to plant aquarium rooting plants?

Cleaners and orderlies of the aquarium – wholesome fish, shrimps, snails relieving algae

Every aquarist, sooner or later, but such a question arises.
First, we acquire unpretentious fish, simple in content. Gradually interested in more complex fish, more interesting and rare.

Often, choose the fish for the beauty of color, shape, behavior.
But the moment comes when we are looking for useful fish, albeit not so bright and interesting in behavior, but which make it easier for us to take care of our aquarium world, who clean the aquarium, are its nurses and bring unconditional benefits!

I, too, came this moment. And I am interested not only in healthy fish, but also in healthy shrimps and clams. I have different kinds of algae living in aquariums different in parameters and population.

That is, the fight against algae, without the use of aquarium chemistry, prompted me to these searches. I propose not to assess the degree of usefulness of certain inhabitants, but simply to create a list of aquatic organisms, bringing clear benefits in a freshwater aquarium.
I think this list can be replenished with your help.

So, let’s begin. Immediately come to mind such useful fish as:

Siamese Algae Eaters (SAE) and their relatives

Ototsinklyus

Ancistrus
Much has been written about these fish, practically, each aquarist has representatives of these species. Their use has long been tested and proven!

These wonderful creatures have recently become increasingly popular with aquarists. Our members of the forum, also appreciated the contribution of shrimp to the fight for the purity of the aquarium.

In confirmation of this, a number of articles on shrimp appeared on our website.
The best fighter with nitchatka – Amano’s shrimp
Cleaners of our aquariums, which are all, without exception, shrimp, eating up food particles, microscopic organisms, rotten leaves of aquarium plants.

Shrimp Red Crystal

Shrimp Cherry

Black Tiger Shrimp

Snail helena. Predatory snail-eating snail.
Thunderstorm all snails.

Next, I would like to elaborate on some snails.

Snail Nritin “Zebra” “Neritina natalensis sp” Zebra “
Some aquarists call it a tiger snail. They say that you can not find two snails with the same ornamentation of the shell.

The homeland of these snails is hot Africa.
Content temperature – 25-27 degrees Celsius, PH of 7.
The cover of the aquarium should be tightly closed, because there are shoots of snails from the aquarium. For a short time this snail can live on land. Frequent attempts to leave the territory of the aquarium may indicate that the parameters of the water do not like the zebras.

Zebras live in the aquarium for about 4-5 years, the size of the shell grows to 2-2.5 cm. In the aquarium, this snail does not reproduce.

Snail Neretina “Hedgehog” “Neritina juttingae”
The shell of this snail is decorated with spiral ribs and spikes. The size of the snail is 2-2.5 cm. Life expectancy in an aquarium is about 4 years.

The optimum water temperature is 25-28 degrees, the pH is above 6.5.

Snail Neretina “Black Ear”
Conditions of detention, dimensions are similar to the previous instance, the lower threshold of temperature may be 22 degrees.
All neretina excellent cleaners aquariums, tirelessly clean stele, large-leaved plants, stones, snags and decor from algal fouling. Moreover, the aquarium plants do not damage at all.

The only disadvantage of these snails – laying eggs on the glass aquarium.

Separately, I want to stay on a tiny snail –
Horned snail Neritina Clithon

These snails have a fairly wide range of habitats Japan, Thailand, the Philippines, China, Indonesia.
The photo shows that there are many options for coloring horned snails. A common feature – the presence of small horns on the shell of snails.
Life expectancy in an aquarium is up to 5 years. The size of the snail is only 1-1.5 cm.

But its capabilities have earned the love of aquarists: snails can crawl through even the most hard-to-reach places, cleaning them to shine.
According to reviews of aquarists: the horned snail perfectly cleans diamond algae from Anubias leaves, glass, stones, decorations.
Water temperature should not be below 24 ° C, PH 7-8. Recommended for 100 liters of 10-15 stuff.
Like all neretina, horned snail does not breed in fresh water.
This video, in accelerated playback, shows how successfully a tiny horned snail copes with algae.
Porcelain Septaria (Septaria porcellana)



This extremely slow snail is also called the snail-turtle. It belongs to the family Neritidae.
Related Names Septaria porcellana – Green Turtle Snail, Cellana toreuma, Neritia Crepidularia, Bourbon Nerite.
Dimensions septaria forforova from 1.5 to 3 cm. Conditions: temperature 22-26, PH from 6 to 7.5. Filtration, aeration, water changes are required.

The life of the aquarium in the presence of food (algal fouling) is about 2 years.
This remarkable snail was first discovered in 1758. The homeland of the snail is Indonesia and the Philippines.
In addition to its slowness, this snail is distinguished by its unusual form of carapace – a flat form. Snails are of different genders, but breed only in brackish water, therefore reproduction of porcelain Septaria in a fresh-water aquarium is not possible.
The snail firmly sticks its foot to the surfaces. In no case can not try to tear it off, thus you can snatch the snail’s leg, which will lead to its death.

Rotational movements, very carefully, you can try to peel the snail from the glass.
Like the previous types of neretin, Septarium porcelain, is also an aquarium nurse, and feeds on algal fouling. Excellent cleans the aquarium from algae, including from the Vietnamese. Does not damage plants.

Gets along with all the peaceful fish and shrimps. Be careful with tetradonts, crayfish and other predators. I saw these snails in a cichlid.

Feel great, and the glass already glistened with cleanliness.
Attention:
– without algae the snail can die from hunger!
– snail is not able to move on sandy ground!
Here are the rave reviews of the happy owners of these snails:
“This crumb in an hour has already collected two bunches of Vietnamese, and is clearly not going to stop,” “Not able to move on the sand. Excellent crawling on the ground 1-2mm! Trying to climb on some plants with low and wide leaves.

From the glass easily climbs on leaning snags. Still – along the glass it is buried in the sand, where algae sit between the sand and the glass, and joyfully eats them out.

I need another septar, ”“ a week a quarantine of 30 l was cleaned out of the greenery in quarantine, the glass was already shiny, and they were awaited by excellent water-lined ulitos overgrown.

Septaria also hangs its eggs on the scenery

And these mollusks very interested me !!
And it all started, here with this photo:
In two aquariums, water is poured from the same reservoir, but freshwater mussels, which are live filters, were placed in the second aquarium!
The same function they perform in aquariums.

Corbicula javan snail (Corbicula javanicus)
or sharovka yellow javanese or gold bivalve

The homeland of these mollusks: China, Indonesia, Vietnam and other Asian countries.
The optimal parameters for the content: temperature 15-30 ° C, PH 6.4-8.5, gH 10-24.
Not demanding on the quality of water in the aquarium, but there must be a good saturation of water with oxygen, which means aeration in the aquarium is obligatory. Water changes and filtration in the aquarium are also needed.

Corbicula grow up to 3 cm in size. Life expectancy: 4 – 7 years
The recommended soil is sand of a fraction of 1–3 mm, and the corticles are almost completely buried in it. The soil layer should be at least 2-3 cm.
Corbicula are excellent helpers in the aquarium against cloudiness of the water, as they are filter feeders.
Passing water through them, they feed on the microorganisms contained in it.
According to different sources: Someone recommends keeping one tank per 100 liter aquarium. There is information about the content in 20 liters of two or even three individuals.
Such mollusks are recommended to be contained in spawners, where the need for clean water is especially important. Corbicula lets through 5 liters of aquarium water per hour!
In aquariums where these mollusks live, the water is always crystal clear, it does not bloom and does not have suspension and turbidity!

An interesting fact is that in aquariums where corbicules are kept, ichthyophorosis diseases do not occur, in the opinion of aquarists, corbicules retain ichthyophthirius cysts that swim in free flight.
You can keep a corbicul with all peaceful fish and shrimps.
Corbicula are hermaphroditic, reproduction problems in the aquarium there. Viviparous corbicula reproduce tiny snails, barely visible in the unaided eye.

In an aquarium, newborn corbicules look like a muddy cloud, then sink to the bottom, where they continue to grow and develop.
If plants grow in your tank with a weak root system, then corbicules, plowing up the ground, can easily dig them up.
FanFishka.ru thanks

The author of the article is Esta (Natalia Polskaya),
for the provided material and cooperation!

Algae – this is not all that grows in the water. So called lower, primitive photosynthetic organisms, often consisting of a single cell or several cells collected in colonies or filaments.

They live everywhere in the aquatic environment. They are distinguished from higher plants by the absence of developed organs: stems, leaves, flowers, and also the fact that throughout their history they lived exclusively in water, while the plants were formed on land, and only after that some of them returned to the water .

Higher flowering plants (as well as several species of moss and ferns) are planted to decorate and revitalize the aquarium, while algae, with the exception of a single species of decorative importance, enter the aquarium without our participation and reproduce in it just when the balance is knocked down and balance is broken. They form a suspension in the water, causing its turbidity or discoloration, or stick around all the surfaces in the form of fluff, bundles and balls of yarn, plaque, mucus and the like.

It is clear that their presence does not contribute to the beauty of the aquarium.

Diatoms are unicellular organisms that have a silicon shell in the form of a box, many of which are capable of movement. The significance of diatoms in natural marine ecosystems is simply colossal, since they constitute a significant proportion of plankton and form a huge part of the organic matter of the earth (about a quarter), and their shells after dying are the basis of sedimentary rocks.

But in artificial reservoirs they, like their counterparts from other departments of lower plants, are unwanted guests. Brownish or brown algae in an aquarium, forming a slimy coating, especially in poorly lit places, often near the bottom – these are, as a rule, diatoms. (By the word “brown” – we mean only color, not systematic belonging, since Brown Alga proper is a separate department of highly developed marine organisms with large bodies, thallus).

Their reproduction contributes to a pH above 7.5, high water hardness and a high concentration of nitrogen compounds. An outbreak of diatoms can cause an excess of sodium in water, which occurs, for example, after treating fish in a common aquarium by adding salt.

When describing the algae divisions, we intentionally described in such detail what conditions the representatives of each of them need in order to breed in an aquarium to a significant amount (there are always a small number of these organisms in the aquarium, but they do not spoil the beauty and do not interfere with other inhabitants). Obviously, in order to cope with the invasion of crimsons, diatoms, or their brethren, these conditions in the aquarium must be changed.

And the most important thing is to plant a large number of living higher plants and create conditions under which they can successfully compete with algae and thereby control their numbers. The following steps will help change the balance of power in favor of the plants.

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