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Thermostat for aquarium

maintenance, care, compatibility

The main disadvantages when using a heater are associated with the need to constantly monitor its operation. Even reaching the desired indicator of water temperature, the device still continues to function and it must be disconnected from the network manually.

To get rid of this problem, a special device is used – the thermostat, which is a device with a built-in temperature sensor. It allows you to turn off the heating element when it reaches the set point and turn it on again when the water starts to cool.

Thus, a stable microclimate is achieved without temperature drops. The use of modern technology allows the manufacture of very compact and easy-to-use thermostats.

According to manufacturing technology, they are divided into two types.

Electronic. They have high accuracy (most of them are equipped with information boards).

Among the shortcomings can be called the relative high cost and lack of reliability.

Mechanical. There are most often, are stable and reliable in operation, cheaper price.

They often distort the actual performance by several degrees, so you need to use a separate thermometer to fine tune the device.

The level of safety in operation and durability of the device thermostats are divided into:

  • Remote – are outside the aquarium, not affected by the aquatic environment and the products of vital activity of aquatic organisms. This increases their service life and provides an opportunity to use cheaper heaters, to replace them without additional costs. To determine the mode of operation, a separate temperature sensor is used, which is located in the aquarium and is connected by wire to a thermostat.
  • Built-in – mounted in a sealed enclosure with a heating element. With this configuration, the entire system of control and heating of water becomes very compact and easy to use.

The latter type of design is most popular among aquarists and is often made in the form of an elongated glass bulb, inside of which there is an electric heater and a thermostat. For greater thermal conductivity, the space of the flask is filled with the smallest ceramic filler.

The tightness of the design provides a rubberized or plastic cap through which the power wire passes. Here is a regulator that allows you to set the desired temperature.

Well-known brands of aquarium equipment – Eheim, Fluval, Ferplast, Aquael, Tetra – produce reliable and high-quality immersion heaters for an aquarium with a thermostat of 25 to 300 watts. Such devices are able to provide the necessary conditions in aquariums up to 1500 liters.

To reduce the likelihood of overheating of water, there is a practice with the simultaneous use of several less powerful thermal devices. In the case when it is not possible to purchase the necessary equipment, it can be done on your own.

When making such a device, you need to remember that the conditions of its operation are associated with a serious risk of electric shock.

But if the decision was made in favor of artisanal crafts, then there is a good option with the creation of a structure made of resistors (resistances), a piece of glass tube with thick walls, a dry filler and an external thermostat. Installation work is carried out in the following order.

1. The power of the heating element is determined on the basis of a special table, which takes into account the temperature difference between the required in the aquarium and the room one. The required current strength is calculated by dividing the selected power by the applied voltage.

By dividing the voltage used by the calculated value of the current, you can get the resistance value of the heater. The required number of identical resistors is selected so that their total power and resistance index corresponds to the calculated values.

2. Determine the length and diameter of the glass tube based on the size and number of resistances. It is important that the successively soldered resistors are placed in the tube with a reserve of 15 cm of free space.

3. In the role of filler, you can use purified from calcined and calcined sand.

4. The bottom of the glass tube is closed with a suitable rubber stopper fitted on the aquarium sealant.

5. The ends of the network cable are soldered to the top and bottom resistors.. The whole structure is placed in the tube and covered with sand.

It is important that the sand be at the bottom of the tube and cover the upper resistor.

6. Top of the tube is carefully closed with aquarium sealant. The power cord is connected to the thermostat with a remote temperature sensor, which in turn is placed in the aquarium.

7. The heater is placed vertically so that the part of the tube in which the resistors are located is hidden under water. Mounted design to the wall of the aquarium with special suction cups.

Also developed schemes for the manufacture and the thermostat on the basis of the comparator and thermistors.

Thermostat for aquarium and everything you need to know about it.

First you need to choose the power of the device, which is necessary for the aquarium and depends on the amount of water in it. Standardly it is considered that for warming up 4.5 liters of water there is enough power of 10 Watts.

For a large aquarium, instead of one powerful device, it is better to buy a few weak ones – this way the water will heat up more evenly.

There are submersible or groundwater heaters. To install and operate the thermostat for an aquarium, you must strictly follow the instructions in order to prevent damage to the device or its failure.

The submersible thermostat for aquarium is waterproof, it can be installed both vertically and horizontally. The water level in the tank should always be above the minimum diving line, which is marked on the hull.

The heater is attached to the wall of the aquarium with brackets with suction cups. You need to install it in a place in the aquarium, in which there is a constant circulation of water.

Do not install the immersion thermostat in the ground. The maximum depth is usually within 1 meter.

It is possible to turn on the thermostat into the electrical network 15 minutes after it has been installed.

There is another kind of thermostat – ground heater (heat cable). It is located at the bottom of the aquarium and is masked by plants and decorations.

The thermocable will provide uniform heating of water, because warm water circulates and rises to the surface.

It is forbidden to turn on the heater taken out of the aquarium, as well as to lower the hand into the water when the device is turned on.

Heaters are necessary equipment for the aquarium during the cold season. By maintaining the temperature level in the aquarium, optimal comfortable conditions will be created for its inhabitants.

What power to choose the thermostat.

In the general case, the thermostat can be calculated here: the calculation of the thermostat’s power

But, there is one BUT. Chinese products, non-Chinese products and even branded products are prone to sticking.
Thermostat sticking
A situation where, regardless of the temperature setting, the thermostat works on heating all the time, i.e. becomes a heater of a certain power.

What happens as a result of sticking. If we do not look at the thermometer every day or put our hands in the water, if it is warm in the apartment, if the wattage was selected by the calculator based on the lower threshold, the temperature in the room, and now we have heat – in the aggregate of this situation, we can easily get ear.

In addition, it was previously accepted, and even now this trend wanders around the network, proceeding from the power of 1 watt per 1 liter. This is also wrong, as is 1 cm of fish per 1 liter. But unfortunately, even eminent brands do not disdain to write wild use ranges on their boxes.

And we, having a standard of 23 degrees in the apartment and wanting to raise it to 25, we buy a 150-liter thermostat 150-watt thermostat.
This is a great evil. Because when sticking such a hot-water bottle, we can get ear.
Of course, much depends on the flow, surface ventilation, etc., but the fish will easily fall at 35 degrees. And it is quite possible to get.

How to be. Let me explain with a simple example.

We have 150 liters, we need to get in it 30 degrees (for example). The standard temperature in the room is, for example, 25, but during periods when the dwellers blow the brain, it drops to 21, and in summer it rises to 28-30.
We enter into the calculator border zones, 21 at least the temperature in the room and 30 as the desired maximum in the aquarium. By calculator, we get the value of 116 watts.

How to be?
The correct solution in this case is to put 2 heaters of 50 watts each. When sticking one with your fish, nothing happens, and the probability of sticking 2x at the same time reduced to zero.

What I want to mention. If you are at home all the time, constantly look at the thermometer and easily notice the unusual behavior of the fish, then perhaps you do not need this instruction, but as they say it is better to perezdzhet
Well, if you do not care for fish, you can also not pay attention to everything written)

Another important digression is mini aquariums. They scheme with 2 heaters not a ride.

Why? Because the minimum power of heaters in 99% of manufacturers is 25 watts.

Putting 25 watts, for example, in 10 liters is IMHO.
How to be here? The easiest option is not to put a heating pad, if temperature conditions and hydrobionts allow.

Most hydrobionts live in a wide range of temperatures and its slow displacement within the framework is not a problem.
The second option, it will cost you much more expensive than your aquarium, this is the connection of the heater through an additional temperature relay. In fact, you get a circuit protected by 2 relays, built-in thermostat and remote. In this case, the probability of soup again is 0.

Of course, many will say, “what for me is all this reassurance.” Of course, this is some reinsurance, but if you have expensive aquatic organisms in the aquarium or they are just expensive for you, then given that the quality of aquarium products is steadily declining in order to reduce production costs, this scheme still makes sense.

  • Twin heaters with thermostat. As a rule, the design of such a device is quite simple: a heater in the form of a spiral is enclosed in a single glass flask with a bimetallic thermostat. These two devices are already connected to the same circuit, so the aquarist does not need to connect anything, just plug in the socket. This device must be fixed strictly in an upright position, otherwise the thermostat will turn off prematurely.

When making such a device, you need to remember that the conditions of its operation are associated with a serious risk of electric shock.

But if the decision was made in favor of artisanal crafts, then there is a good option with the creation of a structure made of resistors (resistances), a piece of glass tube with thick walls, a dry filler and an external thermostat. Installation work is carried out in the following order.

1. The power of the heating element is determined on the basis of a special table, which takes into account the temperature difference between the required in the aquarium and the room one. The required current strength is calculated by dividing the selected power by the applied voltage.

By dividing the voltage used by the calculated value of the current, you can get the resistance value of the heater. The required number of identical resistors is selected so that their total power and resistance index corresponds to the calculated values.

2. Determine the length and diameter of the glass tube based on the size and number of resistances.

It is important that the successively soldered resistors are placed in the tube with a reserve of 15 cm of free space.

3. In the role of filler, you can use purified from calcined and calcined sand.

4. The bottom of the glass tube is closed with a suitable rubber stopper fitted on the aquarium sealant.

5. The ends of the network cable are soldered to the top and bottom resistors.. The whole structure is placed in the tube and covered with sand.

It is important that the sand be at the bottom of the tube and cover the upper resistor.

6. Top of the tube is carefully closed with aquarium sealant. The power cord is connected to the thermostat with a remote temperature sensor, which in turn is placed in the aquarium.

7 The heater is placed vertically. so that the part of the tube in which the resistors are located is hidden under water. Mounted design to the wall of the aquarium with special suction cups.

Also developed schemes for the manufacture and the thermostat on the basis of the comparator and thermistors.

The main disadvantages of using a heater are with the need to constantly monitor his work. Even reaching the desired indicator of water temperature, the device still continues to function and it must be disconnected from the network manually.

To get rid of this problem, a special device is used – the thermostat, which is a device with a built-in temperature sensor. It allows you to turn off the heating element when it reaches the set point and turn it on again when the water starts to cool.

Thus, a stable microclimate is achieved without temperature drops. The use of modern technology allows the manufacture of very compact and easy-to-use thermostats.

According to manufacturing technology, they are divided into two types.

Electronic. They have high accuracy (most of them are equipped with information boards).

Among the shortcomings can be called the relative high cost and lack of reliability.

Mechanical. There are most often, are stable and reliable in operation, cheaper price.

They often distort the actual performance by several degrees, so you need to use a separate thermometer to fine tune the device.

The level of safety in operation and durability of the device thermostats are divided into:

  • Remote – are outside the aquarium, not affected by the aquatic environment and the products of vital activity of aquatic organisms. This increases their service life and provides an opportunity to use cheaper heaters, to replace them without additional costs. To determine the mode of operation, a separate temperature sensor is used, which is located in the aquarium and is connected by wire to a thermostat.
  • Built-in – mounted in a sealed enclosure with a heating element. With this configuration, the entire system of control and heating of water becomes very compact and easy to use.

Spiral-heater-for aquarium

The latter type of design is most popular among aquarists and is often made in the form of an elongated glass bulb, inside of which there is an electric heater and a thermostat. For greater thermal conductivity, the space of the flask is filled with the smallest ceramic filler.

The tightness of the design provides a rubberized or plastic cap through which the power wire passes. Here is a regulator that allows you to set the desired temperature.

Well-known brands of aquarium equipment – Eheim, Fluval, Ferplast, Aquael, Tetra – produce reliable and high-quality immersion heaters for an aquarium with a thermostat of 25 to 300 watts. Such devices are able to provide the necessary conditions in aquariums up to 1500 liters.

To reduce the likelihood of overheating of water, there is a practice with the simultaneous use of several less powerful thermal devices.

In the case when it is not possible to purchase the necessary equipment, it can be done on your own.

READ ALSO MELLINESIA

CO2 FOR THE AQUARIUM WITH OWN HANDS PHOTO VIDEO DESCRIPTION.

HEATER FOR AQUARIUM AND EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT IT.

The most important condition for the favorable life of your aquarium is to maintain a certain temperature, optimal for a particular type of fish. Usually the fish need a temperature of 22 to 32 degrees, depending on their species.
Until recently, aquarists actively used simple
heaters. In some specialized stores, heaters are sold now, but it is not recommended to purchase them.

Now came the blessed era of thermostats. Power thermostats depends on how large the aquarium.

Experts recommend a power of 1.5 watts per 1 liter of water. For example: an aquarium of 100 liters will require a 150 watt heater.
Fish owners should also be aware that the colder it is in the room, the faster the water in the aquarium cools, and the greatest cooling threatens aquariums with a large area of ​​its walls. Therefore, it is best to purchase heaters “with a stock”, ie, more powerful. Such heaters easily and quickly cope with a decrease in temperature, operate smoothly, without overheating, and last much longer.

But powerful heaters must be of high quality.
It will not be out of place to know also that the cost of a heater is not particularly dependent on its capacity, and energy consumption, too. The whole question is about the reliability of the device, i.e., the thermostat and the heating element. When the thermostat of a powerful heater breaks, the inhabitants of the aquarium have two not very encouraging options – to die either from cold or from the unusually high temperature of the water.

Some, in order to avoid such sad consequences, acquire 2 heaters of average power. If one thermostat fails, the other will support the optimal habitat.

If one of the thermostats breaks, the water will not reach the critical temperature, and the fish will eventually be fine. But, as you know, good cheap does not happen.

A couple of high-quality heaters will cost you twice as much as one simple. The right to choose is yours.

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