maintenance, care, compatibility
In the modern interior of any housing aquarium is not only an element of design, but also the pride of the tenant and the owner of the room. Sometimes, when a person gets tired of everyday worries and work, he may come home to watch the carefree fish and algae – it calms and relaxes the nervous system.
But an aquarium is one design item that needs care. Sometimes the plants in the tank start to rot.
Below, an attempt will be made to answer the question of why the plants in the aquarium turn yellow.
The reason for this phenomenon may be the ground or lack of light. For those plants that need to be rooted in the ground, the soil needs a fraction of a half to three millimeters.
But some plants can do without soil. For lighting it is worth using fluorescent lamps, the power of which should not be below 30 watts. The second reason for this trouble is the quality of the water, since some of the plants are very sensitive to various chemicals that are found in the water.
To do this, the water from the aquarium should be cleaned, filtered, etc.
Strange as it may sound, fertilizers can have a negative effect on both plants and fish. But, since the need for fertilizer plants are scanty, manure provided by the fish themselves may be suitable as fertilizer.
Although it is also possible to use clay balls or liquid complex fertilizers.
There may be problems with carbon dioxide content, which can be eliminated by installing appropriate equipment. All living organisms are subject to disease, and plants are no exception.
If the plants in the aquarium have lost their beautiful appearance, started to turn yellow and drooped, then the diagnosis is one, and it is very simple – the plants are sick.
To save the root system, it is enough to cut off the rotten parts of the plant, change the water, and also remove the dead parts of the plants from it. If the leaves are yellowed, it is not necessary to assume that the plants are rotting in the aquarium – maybe they were just damaged by the fish, which turned out to be somewhat voracious.
Therefore, in the process of determining the disease of a plant, attention should be paid to whether the inhabitants of the aquarium themselves are not related to this. Moreover, in many cases, the signs are very similar to each other.
To do this, just need to follow the behavior of their pets in the aquarium.
Diseases of aquarium plants and treatment, photo description video.
PLUMBER ROT – DESCRIPTION TREATMENT SYMPTOMS VIDEO PHOTO.
Wallisneria maintenance and care in the aquarium, species, breeding, photo-video review
maintenance and care, species, reproduction, photo-video review
Wallisneria is one of the most unpretentious aquarium plants. If you have never had an aquarium, you do not have experience in growing aquarium plants, start with Vallisneria.
She does not need any special care. There are no stringent requirements for lighting, water or soil parameters.
Vallisneria goes well with other aquarium plants, grows quickly and looks good on the side and background of the aquarium.
Family: Water colors (Hydrocharitaceae)
Spiral, American Vallisneria, Dwarf Vallisneria, Vallisneria twirled, Vallisneria floating, Vallisneria Twist-leaved mini-twister ”, etc. gracilis, V. gigantea, V. jaquinii, V. mmor, V. nana, V. linnei, V. natans, V. portugalensis, V. neotropicalis, V. spinulosa, V. pusilla, V. tortifolia, V. triptera, V. tortissima, etc.). Representatives of the genus are constantly reviewed, systematized, their names change.
This is due to the great similarity of plants. They are distinguished by the species of valisneria by the length and width of the leaves, their color, shape, type of venation.
Depending on the habitat conditions, the plant is able to change its external data ”.
The biological requirements of most representatives of Vallisneria are the same, so their detailing is not critical.
A vallisneria americana
B Vallisneria americana var.biwaensis
With Vallisneria americana (natans)
D Vallisneria nana og
E Vallisneria spiralis Tiger
Growing area: almost all continents in temperate, tropical and subtropical zones. Under natural conditions, vallisneria can be found both in the flowing waters of rivers and standing waters – ponds and lakes.
Comfortable temperature: from 18 to 32 ° C. If the water is cooled for a long time to 15 ° C and tends to decrease, the plant may die.
Ph acidity: weak or neutral.
Stiffness dH: average.
Salinity of water: from 0 to 20 ppm.
If you have a frame aquarium or bad tap water, watch the rust concentration in it, the plant does not like it. An excess of copper in water also affects the development of Vallisneria.
This metal can get into the aquarium together with preparations against snails and algae, as well as with medicines for the treatment of fish.
It is better to plant vallisneria along the back and side walls in a group of several plants and quite tightly. It forms a beautiful green wall and is the perfect backdrop for all types of ornamental fish.
To make it easier for you to take care of the aquarium garden in the future, you should purchase Vallisneria from a group of mother and daughter plants.
It is convenient to plant the valisneria next to the filter, in the place of water discharge. Due to the flow of water, the plant will be evenly distributed over the surface. Vallisneria can also be used as a restriction on the spread of free-floating plants by placing its leaves in the form of small islets.
To fix the position of the vallisneria afloat, you can use snags or strong leaves of other plants (for example, Echinodorus).
Wallisneria does not require undue attention to itself, does not need special care, but it is impossible to completely ignore the needs of the plant for development. For some time, valisneria can grow in poor soil, with poor lighting and muddy water, but for the time being.
In the end, the plant will begin to languish: almost cease to grow, the leaves will become shorter and fade. Therefore, at least sometimes the grass should be fed with complex fertilizers in the form of tablets or paste. Water should also be changed regularly.
But the peat and clay in the soil is not necessary. Vallisneria also do not need carbon dioxide.
Synonyms: Sometimes this plant is called and written as walisneria, with one beech l. However, it is correct, yet to write with two vallisneria – vallisneria.
Vallisneria americana var. americana
The plant is unpretentious, does not require much attention. American valisneria has many forms that vary in width and length of leaves.
Growing area: Eastern North America.
Forms and appearance: leaves are collected, in the form of rosettes, ribbon-shaped, brittle and soft, sometimes at the edges with the teeth. Representatives of the American Vallisneria subspecies may differ in the structure of the sheet plate and its color (from various shades of green to many shades of red).
Leafy handicaps: leaf width is about 10 mm, with several veins and distinct horizontal strokes.
Broadleaf forms: sheet width up to 25 mm, the vein can be from 5 to 9 pieces. Priming: loose, rich in nutrients, up to 7 cm thick, in tandem with liquid and horse fertilizers, which include iron, is the best option for the full development of the plant.
Lighting: bright, 12-hour light day.
Comfortable temperature: 20-28 ° C.
Ph acidity: 6.5-8.
Stiffness dH: 5-15 °.
Accommodation in the aquarium: When planting a vallisneria in your aquarium, it should be remembered that the plant grows up to 1 m in height, therefore it can significantly impair the coverage of the underwater world of your pond. If you nevertheless decided to acquire such water weed, then pick up the inhabitants of the aquarium, which is acceptable muffled light.
It is worth noting that Vallisneria americana is most attractive in very large aquariums. A good planting option is about 4 plants per 20 cm2.
American Wallisneria is a background plant, so they are planted along the back and side walls of the aquarium.
The complexity of care: low.
Trimming: you can cut the leaves, but not necessary. After pruning, the plant’s appearance deteriorates and its growth weakens.
Reproduction: vegetative, uniform.
In low light, the plants become pale in color and lose their lower leaves. They try to get closer to the light, their internodes are stretched and become thinner than the stems, dropping leaves in the lower part. In this case, you need to see if other plants in the aquarium take too much light, and thin them out if necessary.
You can also make the lighting more powerful.
If your plants have unusually small leaves, this means that they lack light and need additional feeding. If the red part of the spectrum of an illumination lamp is too powerful, in plants the upper parts of the leaves can stretch in length.
Do not forget that the higher the temperature in the aquarium, the more light it needs. If the ratio of light exposure and water temperature is disturbed, plants will have long internodes and small leaves.
Water temperature plays a huge role. As well as fish, when the temperature drops, the plant can “freeze” and die.
At elevated temperatures, all processes in the plant body are accelerated and require the influx of a much larger amount of nutrients, including carbon dioxide, which, in turn, increases the need for brightness of light for the implementation of photosynthesis.
Unpretentious aquarium plant. Due to the large size it needs an aquarium of solid parameters.
For this reason, giant gallium is not popular among aquarists. It grows with proper lighting evenly throughout the year.
Growing area: Southeast Asia.
Appearance: large bushes straight stiff leaves up to 1 m in length, different shades of green.
Priming: coarse (pebbles or sand with a grain of 3-4 mm), nutritious. The plant feels good from old aquariums, where there is a large amount of organic matter.
Soil thickness – not less than 8 cm.
Lighting: bright, 12 hour light day. If the aquarium is low, lateral lighting is desirable, as an addition to the upper one.
Comfortable temperature: 22-26 ° С, it should not be allowed to fall below 20 ° С. Ph acidity: mild, weakly acidic medium.
Stiffness dH: less than 8 °.
Regular water changes are not critical.
Accommodation in the aquarium: can only be grown in a large aquarium.
Reproduction: vegetative, layering.
Growing area: Northern Australia.
This wallisneria has a short rhizome, forms lateral shoots. In an aquarium it reaches sizes up to 30-60 cm, which depends on the power of lighting and the nutritional value of the medium. The plant has dark green narrow leaves.
The leaves in the socket, much narrower than those of other members of the genus Vallisneria, and not very long. It has small teeth on the edge on the top of the sheet.
Wallisneria nana has two forms: either the leaves are hard and up to 15 cm long, or thin, ribbon-like, drooping, surprisingly narrow, smooth, up to 60 cm long.
It is unassuming, like all Wallisnerias, a fast-growing aquarium plant. It is recommended for decorating the middle and background in small aquariums.
It has a longer growth phase and is more light-loving than other Wallisnerias, otherwise unpretentious. Wallisneria nana well develops in alkaline water of medium hardness at a temperature of 25-29 ° С, tolerates deviations from the specified parameters.
It forms many lateral processes and develops well under good conditions. The dwarf Wallisneria has a longer period of adaptation than the other Wallisnerias.
If the plant is well taken, it will continuously give daughters.
The author of the article is Irina Gorobets,
for the provided material and cooperation!
Many plants in aquarium conditions need fertilizing with fertilizers. Due to the lack of nutrients in the soil, they can wilt, decay.
Leaves appear on the leaves, the edges lose their uniform shape, the color becomes pale.
But we must not forget about the ground. It is undesirable for the ground to be too dense.
Because of this, the leaves and roots of plants can be deformed. This is especially true of young plants.
The quantity and quality of the soil must meet the requirements of individual plant species.
Iron. If the iron in the water is not enough, the plant turns yellow, “glassy” and may die. To avoid this, it is enough to put on the bottom a few pebbles of orange or red color, which contain a lot of iron.
The weekly addition of about 0.1-0.2 mg of iron vitriol per liter of water to the aquarium significantly increases the greenness of most plants, especially the red coloring of young leaves and shoots. If the iron in the water, on the contrary, is more than necessary, the plant will turn yellow, but the veins of the leaves will remain green.
To destroy the excess iron, dissolve a little manganese in water.
Calcium. With a lack of calcium in plants, the edges of the leaves turn yellow.
To eliminate this, an empty shell (necessarily disinfected) is placed in the aquarium. After restoring the balance of the sink can be removed.
Algae black beard – the most common disease. Face him the most. This alga in the form of black hairs settles not only on the walls of the aquarium, but also on the vegetation.
In addition to the ugly aesthetic appearance, it significantly slows down growth. The causative agent of this disease can be brought with new plants or be in the stomach of fish.
To the alga blackbeard did not get into the aquarium, it is better to acquire obviously clean plants.
How to get rid? Mechanical cleaning should be done with a stiff brush. In the case of a strong disease disease, it is better to replace the vegetation with fast-growing.
Floating plants can be kept in solution with hydrogen peroxide at the rate of 1 ml per liter of water. Limit the fish in feeding.
It is advisable to feed them every day with live food. Twice a week to change 30% of the water.
If this did not help, purchase the finished product at the pet store.
Red algae (purple). A sign of crimson is the appearance of small bunches or individual hairs of red color on the leaves. As a rule, this sore appears in cold-water aquariums.
Somiki and antsistrusy help in the fight against it.
Blue-green algae. The disease begins with the appearance of points of dark green color.
They cover the soil, walls of the aquarium, sheets. Over time, the points grow to form a dense the crust, which is then very difficult to bring out.
Plants slow growth, begins to decay of individual leaves. There may be several reasons for the appearance of blue-green algae: unstable water, excessively strong lighting, high temperature, weak aeration of water, entry with live food.
To get rid of blue-green algae, you need to carry out a thorough cleaning of the plants, the walls and bottom of the aquarium. You can have inhabitants that feed on green fouling. Increased water aeration and reduced light also have a positive effect on combating them.
In extreme cases, it is worth using penicillin.