maintenance, care, compatibility
What light is needed for those aquariums in which aquatic plants do not live? In such tanks it is necessary to reduce the intensity of light. To do this, you can take a lamp of lower power.
For containers 30 cm long, the lamp power should not exceed 10 watts. With such lighting, the movement of fish will be visible, and the inhabitants of the artificial home pond will feel comfortable. When choosing the intensity of illumination, you must consider the breed of fish
If albino fish live in an aquarium, then even a level of light would be dangerous for them.
For comfortable illumination in an aquarium with a green flora that does not cause stress in fish, a lamp with a length equal to the length of the aquarium is suitable. This is the best option for selecting lighting for shallow tanks.
For deep tanks, it is better to select a certain compromise that would create comfortable conditions for both flora and fauna. There are several solutions to this problem.
If there is not enough light in the tank for aquatic verdure, then fish species should be chosen from shallow reservoirs that are accustomed to bright light. In this case, the fish will not be dangerous bright light, and it will be useful for plants.
You can choose the types of underwater flora that do not need too bright light. Such varieties are well combined with the content of deep-sea fish.
They allow you to create conditions for life, close to natural.
You can pick up seedlings with leaves that can float on the surface of the aquarium and consume the right amount of light. The leaves will create a shade in which the fish will feel comfortable under intense light.
In this case, the arrangement of the aquarium should begin with the cultivation of underwater plants. As soon as comfortable conditions for fish are created in an artificial reservoir, it will be possible to launch them.
Then, in bright light, fish will be able to hide in the grown leaves of algae floating on the surface of the reservoir. Usually the plants grow to the desired size in two months.
For better growth of plants, while there are no fish in the tank, you need to add fertilizer to the soil or water.
When arranging an aquarium, you can pick up high and low species of plants, evenly distributing them in the pond. For starters, choose unpretentious representatives of the aquatic flora: anubiasa, cryptocoryne, elodea, javanese moss, vallysneria, aponogetony, riccia, bacopa, limnofily.
You can make such an arrangement only in large aquariums. For small volume tanks this option is not suitable.
Watch the video about unpretentious aquarium plants.
When setting the illumination, you can adjust the direction to which the light will go. The lamp is best sent to the places of intensive plant growth. So you can equip the backlight in large containers.
Water areas free from aquatic flora should be decorated with snags or stained oak, which will create shaded “islands” that are close to the natural habitats of fish.
Any aquarist will sooner or later have to face the need to purchase additional equipment: it is a question of devices for aeration, filtration, and of lamps that provide the necessary lighting for the aquarium. Let us consider in more detail the main aspects related to this issue.
First of all, it is necessary to clearly understand: the presence of light is very important for the fish that inhabit your aquarium, for the plants in the aquarium, even for bacteria. And if the lighting in the aquarium is insufficient, then first of all you will learn about it from plants.
In such situations, instead of the green color, they acquire a dark brown shade. subsequent processes of decay, which leads to a violation of the biological balance in the aquarium, the development of various harmful organisms and, ultimately, to the death of fish.
As you can see, to ensure proper lighting is extremely necessary. On the modern market are a variety of lamps in the aquarium, which allow to take into account the peculiarities of specific aquarium fish and plants.
Trying to provide comfortable conditions for the inhabitants of domestic aquariums, we, willy-nilly, strive to reproduce in it the conditions that are characteristic of the natural habitat as accurately as possible. One of the most difficult tasks in this regard is to provide a normal light mode.
It would seem, what is simpler: he took the light bulb, hung it near the aquarium and – let there be light! But no. You see, a week later, either the water began to bloom, or the walls were covered with algae, or the plants that looked handsome from their former owner, suddenly took on a very deplorable appearance.
So something is wrong. You need to buy specialized lamps for the aquarium, giving increased radiation in the blue and red parts of the spectrum.
As an example, we give Osram-fluora and Sylvania Gro-Lux. Sometimes, in order to get well developed plants and beautiful looking fish, it is necessary to combine different types of lamps.
That would not mess with the inclusion of lighting in the aquarium manually. You can instruct this automation.
The photo sensor in the room will monitor the general level of illumination and in summer, when there is enough light, turn off the backlight. A daily timer completely de-energize the lamp for the aquarium at night.
LIGHTING FOR AQUARIUM PLANTS
LED lighting type more and more enters aquarism, which is greatly contributed by changing the LED market.
Light Emitting Diodes (LED))
Light Emitting Diodes (LED)) become brighter, consume less electricity and have an increasing radiation spectrum …
LED lighting for aquarium appeared about 10 years ago, abroad. We, in Russia, still prefer traditional lamp lighting.
A couple of years ago, several companies producing aquarium equipment, decided to produce and equipment based on LEDs. The idea was to replace the traditional aquarium metal halide lamps on the market with more economical and durable LED arrays.
Red radiation in combination with Orange (Orange) is the main form of energy for photosynthesis of aquarium plants. This light enhances the formation of carbohydrates during photosynthesis, as it is extremely well absorbed by chlorophyll.
The zone of these radiations is one of the most important for all physiological actions in plants.
Radiation purple and blue (Blue) LEDs are needed to suspend the growth of stems, leaf stalks, plant plates. That is, this light makes your plants more compact, this in turn allows you to improve absorption.
Such rays stimulate the formation of proteins and organic synthesis in aquarium plants. The blue and violet part of the spectrum is almost completely absorbed by chlorophyll, which in turn creates excellent conditions for maximum photosynthesis intensity.
Green (Green) LED You may need to, if you need to give your aquarium plants a pronounced green color. Since its radiation actually passes through the leaf blades without being absorbed by it. The latter under their action become very thin, and the axial organs of plants stretch.
The level of photosynthesis in this case is very low.
Yellow LED creates a glow as close as possible to natural lighting. Yellow radiation, unlike warm white, does not reflect from the surface of the water and its light penetrates deep into the aquarium, allowing you to create an effective lighting as close to natural light as possible The intensity and type of lamps affects the health, color, photosynthesis and reproduction of aquarium inhabitants. Pick up the light with all the preferences of the fish and their natural habitat.
Many tropical species are not familiar with bright light even on hot sunny days, so an excess of light can cause them stress and deterioration in their well-being. Some organisms need powerful rays of light, as a rule, they are inhabitants of shallow tropical rivers, where the water is clear and the sun sends out rays within 12 hours.
Coral reefs in wildlife have settled in shallow bodies of water, so they also need to ensure good and bright lighting. UV radiation is very important for corals, the rays pass into the depths of the water, where corals and invertebrates are already waiting for their arrival, since ultraviolet light activates the process of photosynthesis.
LIGHTING FOR AQUARIUM PLANTS
DIY Aquarium Lighting, LED Lights in Aquarium
What do you need to create lighting in the aquarium with your own hands and how much will it cost?
First, you need skillful hands, without them in any way))) As well as tools, preferably: drill, electric jigsaw, Bulgarian, other small tools (screwdrivers, keys, pliers, etc.). If you do not have a jigsaw or grinder, do not despair.
You just have to do everything “manually”, for example, with a hacksaw or sawing.
I am “modernsirval” aquarium cover TM “Nature” (plastic, with two integrated LL T8, ballast and starters), like this: Acquired two CD prozhetora 30W, TM “Feron” model LL 730. Features: daylight 6500K, 2850 lumen (by the way, 2 SD * 2850Lm = 5700Lm / 110l.vody = 51.8lm / l).
Acquired Aquaelev electronic starter for LL T5. Such a choice was made in order to minimize the “stuffing” of the aquarium cover, the place under which is worth its weight in gold.
Acquired previously voiced T5 lamp JBL Solar Ultra Color T5, 28 W, 60 cm. + reflector.
Socket – voltage relay. It is necessary for safety and the prevention of power surges. In such an outlet, voltage limits are set, after which the equipment is de-energized.
Sockets timers (2 pcs.). Required for automatic on / off lighting.
It makes life easier and clearly controls the time of the filing of a particular lighting. Electronic sockets-timers were purchased for lighting, since, unlike mechanical ones, they do not go astray. For example, when the network is de-energized, they “remember everything” and after the resumption of power supply, they work according to a predetermined schedule.
To install coolers (fans), you will need: 2-a computer cooler for 12W and a voltage adapter, respectively, 12W. I purchased an adapter with a switch W from 0 to 12 W, it is convenient to reduce or increase the speed of rotation of the coolers and, accordingly, the degree of cooling.
And also to reduce noise, if necessary.
You will also need: Silicone (building and aquarium), fasteners (bolts, nuts, screws), tie-holders for spotlights (preferably aluminum, so as not to rust), wires (strong and three-core), are needed to connect spotlights, coolers, plugs under spotlights with ground connection.
The process of assembling aquarium lighting The process of assembling and installing aquarium lighting with their own hands is different for everyone, since everyone has different covers. I will describe my process.
1. First, connect the power cord and plug to the spotlights. From the spotlight comes a three-core wire (with ground), respectively, you need to attach to it the same wire. Do not listen to smart sellers in building supermarkets.
When I bought the wire I was told, they say: “What are you. / censorship /, ground lights. In general, believe only in yourself and reliable information, and not “woe to the specialists”, who probably understand only cheap vodka.
Photo can be increased paint
2. Next, remove all the “old insides” cover.
3. Make the layout and cut out the holes for the spotlight. This manipulation must be done very carefully, so that the illumination of the spotlights will be uniform – throughout the aquarium.
4. Install the spotlights and fix them with a tie and fasteners.
5. All silicone and seal. Remove special attention to metal parts (if used), make good silicone so that rust does not get into the aquarium.
6. After checking the performance and proceed to the installation of coolers.
7. Making holes for coolers in opposite sides of the cover.
8. Mount the cooler. One cooler is placed on blowing, the other on blowing.
9. Connect the cooler to the adapter, check the performance.
10. After all the wires stretch around the perimeter of the cover and fasten with silicone.
11. Install T5 and Aquaelev electronic starter in the last turn, based on the availability of free space under the cover. SD and LL should not overlap.
It looks like the electrical connection under the aquarium
How much is it? Cover – in stock.
Searchlight (30W) – 2800 rubles. * 2 = 5600 rubles.
Aquaelev electronic starter – 1200 rubles.
T5 JBL Solar Ultra Color T5, 28 W, 60 cm. – 750 rubles.
Reflector – I used homemade, because Standard not intermeddle.
Relay socket – 400 rubles.
Socket timer – 350 rubles * 2 = 700 rubles.
Extension cable with off buttons = 400 rubles.
Power adapter 12W – 210 rubles.
Fasteners, wires, plugs, silicone, screed, and other trifles – 500 rubles. (about).
TOTAL: 9760 rubles. ($ 275)
Is it worth bothering? What is the effect? Definitely worth it.
The price of the issue is not so global, and the effect is stunning.
My plants immediately bubbled up even without T5, with the T5 after two hours of intense lighting, an “oxygen blizzard” begins. And this is a clear sign – effective and high-quality lighting. The plants themselves grow like weeds in the garden.
And the aquarium sparked and transformed beyond recognition.
Here are the primary photos of the aquarium and plants with bubbles
If there is no vegetation in the aquarium (there are such), then a certain light is selected in order to most effectively emphasize the beauty of the fish against the background of the corresponding decorations.
However, in the vast majority of home and office water reservoirs for fish, vegetation is always present, which performs several important functions.
The most important function is the “production” of oxygen necessary for the life of the aquarium inhabitants. Of course, air can also be supplied through an aerator, but the natural biotope, which aquarists usually aspire to create, does not know forced aeration, and oxygen enters the water, including as a result of natural photosynthesis of plants.
The next function can be called just the creation for the fish as close to the natural conditions as possible. From this depends largely on their behavior, reproduction, diet.
For example, in many cases using water overgrowths create areas of shading where fish love to hide and rest.
In short, aquatic plants are the most important element of an aquarium, and proper lighting is the most important condition for their existence. Thus, the light is actively involved in creating the necessary balance of a closed aquatic system, which is precisely the aquarium.
Artificial light day trying to bring as close as possible to the natural as the spectrum of light, and the duration of illumination. For example, the length of daylight hours in the tropics and the equator is approximately 12 hours, and owners of tropical aquariums know this.
Conversely, an excess of light will in no way positively affect the cultured aquatic vegetation, but the rapid growth of green and blue-green algae will be provided.
Recommendations for choosing lamps for aquarium vegetation
There are aquatic plants that do not like intense, powerful lighting. If, for example, Blass, Griffith cryptocorynes, Javanese moss, cryptocoryne cordata or fernite bolbitis are planted, then the luminaire power of 0.3–0.4 W / l is quite sufficient.
When it is necessary to create a tropical forest landscape, it is enough to install a lamp (or several lamps) with a power of 0.4–0.5 W / l. In this case, the vegetation will be pulled up to natural light.
For most aquarium plants, luminaires with a power of 0.5 W / l to 0.8 W / l are used. It is in this case that they develop normally, acquire a coloring inherent in them from nature.
By the way, there are many species of aquatic flora that change the color of the leaves, depending on the power of the light source.
If the aquarium is planted with dense vegetation (the so-called herbalist), then it is better to use a lighting device with a power higher than 0.8 W / l.
Of course, these are general recommendations, and in each particular case a particular type of luminaire should be chosen. And vice versa: if you purchased an aquarium with an integrated lighting system, then you should pick up such plants that will feel comfortable in it.
Many experts say that the fitolamp (a special lamp for aquarium plants) is the optimal solution for a herbalist. Companies Osram, Sylvania, General Electric, Philips produce a large range of such devices.
Given the specific features, you can choose a great option in which the vegetation will develop normally and live long in your aquarium.
Video: how to make phytolamp yourself:
How to install LED aquarium lighting by yourself
The first method, how to make LED lighting aquarium do it yourself is the simplest. Here you can use the cover with a special backlight.
It is recommended to attach white LED stripes around the perimeter of the lid, which will provide a variety of spectrum and ensure uniform illumination of the upper perimeter of the tank.
The second method is to make a small “chandelier”. Above the tank it is necessary to make a block of square, round or diamond shape, in which you can put all the equipment and LED strip.
Lighting capacity of 120 watts is enough for a spacious tank with a capacity of 250-300 liters, where many fish and plants live. Such a “chandelier” may contain about 40 LED lamps with a luminous flux of 270 lm (lumen), 3 watts each.
The brightness of the illumination will be more than 10,000 lm, which will provide a bright light spectrum in an aquarium of such a volume. The main thing is to constantly monitor the balance of the ecosystem: an excess of green light contributes to the reproduction of microbes.
How much does it cost to assemble such a lamp? The cost may be different, depending on the seller.
It is advisable to buy LED lamps from trusted manufacturers, so that they last for a long time and do not create installation difficulties. Reliable imported LED lamps: Osram, Cree, Philips, Lumileds.
Russian manufacturers of LED dump: “Feron”, “Camelion”, “Jazzway”, “Gauss”, “Navigator”, “Era”.
To mount the lighting with such bulbs yourself, you need:
- Buy a lot of LED bulbs, LED strip;
- Plastic trench 10 cm wide and 2 meters long;
- Power supply 12 V, can be carried out from a stationary computer;
- Take the soft wire 1.5 mm;
- Get air conditioning at 6-12 V;
- No LED connectors are needed for the LED strip; 40 lamps are required for the lamps;
- Cutter for holes 48 mm.
See how to make LED lighting for the aquarium with your own hands.
After all materials have been prepared, two grooves should be cut along the plastic construction, and about 20 pieces should be drilled in the lower part. at 1 meter, you can staggered. Then in the holes you need to put the LEDs, and fix them.
All lamps must be connected to the power supply. If you do not know how to properly handle the wiring, contact an electrician who can perform the procedure correctly.
The cooler or fan should be placed in the place of evaporation or heating of the lighting coating. For decorative purposes, you can make a night light, which will become an imitation of moonlight. It is needed for tropical sea fish and sea anemones.
For night light, you can use a blue LED ribbon, which can be installed on the back wall. An electric lighting timer or automatic switching on / off of the backlight must also be connected in order to regulate the amount of daylight required.
The lighting of the aquarium should come from its upper part – this is how soft and diffused light is formed. It is better to use an ICE lamp with a power of 1 W, however, for different aquariums the appropriate power is chosen.
A LED strip of 30-40 light bulbs with a total power of 3 watts may be enough for a 200-liter tank. The main thing that the light was not too bright, and not harm the slaves and plants.
The optimal calculation is 0.5 watts per 1 liter of water, but for a deep and spacious aquarium in the formula, all indicators must be multiplied by two.
It is also important to take into account the thickness of the bottom – visually the water and all bottom plants should receive enough light in the lower layers of the tank. Bottom fishes and snails require a little light, but the plants will still grow and require more light. In the process of photosynthesis, plants will require a lot of light, because of its deficiency will emit less oxygen.
To avoid problems, you need to adjust the amount of daylight, and create a uniform lighting in the pond, which will receive every inhabitant.
the photo shows the rules of planting aquarium plants
1. The stunted (ground cover) plants are planted in the foreground, the long-stem plants are in the background.
2. Plants are planted before planting, rotted leaves are removed, roots are pruned, leaving 2 -3 cm.
3. Ground-cover plants and low-growing plants are planted in wet ground (some water is poured), then the aquarium is still filled, and middle and background plants are planted.
4. If a large number of plants are planted (which can take a long time), you can use a spray bottle to periodically spray the already planted plants.
5. Large plants can be planted in the hole by hand, ground cover tweezers.
6. Plants with red pigment are placed in the most lighted areas.
7. Mosses are attached to stones and bark by fishing line or thread.
After planting, the necessary amount of Tetra PlantaStart was inserted under the roots of the plants with tweezers – the tablets contribute to the rooting and adaptation of the newly planted plant. Please note that these tablets can be divided into quarters and make them depending on the size of the bush.
At the end of the landing, the aquarium was completely flooded with water.
In the conclusion of this section, it should be said that a beginner aquarist should not be afraid of the suspension that can form in an aquarium in the first days. Slight cloudiness of the aquarium can be caused by dust from the soil (mechanical turbidity). Such dust within 3-7 days will be filtered.
Also, for the first time the days of aquarium life can form a “biological dregs” – the whiteness of the water, this dregs are also not terrible and even vice versa, it says to the aquarist that biological processes have started to work actively in the aquarium. Such dregs also take place in 3-7 days.
See the article for more details. Muddy aquarium.
Sometimes, in the first month on a snag that was drowned in an aquarium, whitish mucus can form – it is organic, the phenomenon is also not terrible, but saying that the snag was not fully processed. Such mucus will disappear soon, but it can still be removed mechanically or, for example, by driving catfish. antsistrusov, which will clear this slime.
Also, a novice aquarist should not worry that in a water-filled aquarium it will not be possible to plant the plants or change their location. In the future, you can easily make adjustments.
Additional materials for this section:
Aquarium plants for beginners
The use of starting chemistry at the start of the aquarium.
After the aquarium was filled with water, we introduced three basic starter preparations:
Tetra aquasafe – binds heavy metals, completely neutralizes chlorine and creates an environment as close as possible to the natural habitats of fish. Colloidal silver solution protects the mucous membranes of fish, and magnesium and vitamin B1 reduce the stress effect.
Tetra SafeStart – contains specially grown live nitrifying bacteria that reliably reduce the levels of poisonous ammonia and nitrite in the aquarium.
Tetra EasyBalance – stabilizes pH and carbonate hardness (KN) of water, removes phosphorus, supplements with various vitamins, microelements and minerals, reduces the number of water changes. Provides a healthy habitat for your plants and fish in a freshwater aquarium.
These drugs are essential for the maintenance of the aquarium, especially in the first month. Their use is in fact the key to success and the absence of problems after launch.
All these preparations have different directions, but in the aggregate they set up the biological balance in the aquarium as efficiently as possible.
Features of the contents of the aquarium with plants, nuances and tricks.
So, we launched an aquarium! Every hour, every day, the aquarium begins to “ripen” – a new life begins! Millions of microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, protozoa) begin to develop, plants begin to adapt, filtering, aeration of the aquarium takes place, photons of light begin to feed the plants, which in turn begin to release oxygen during photosynthesis – you have created this wonderful world!
And as a creator, you should understand that this world must develop, there should not be stagnation in it.
Below we will share the “simple tricks” that you must learn and apply in practice.
Since we created the herbal aquarium, we must clearly understand the components that are necessary for the comfortable life of the aquarium garden, here they are:
(CO2, micro and macro fertilizers)
(properly configured filtration, aeration)
The issue of lighting aquarium with live aquarium plants is important and extensive. Lighting is the key to good plant growth!
It is important to understand this fact.
To understand all the wisdom of lighting for plants, our articles will help you:
Aquarium lighting and lamp selection
DIY Aquarium Lighting
Reflectors in the aquarium
Of course, this material for a beginner will be initially complicated. But once you figure it out and everything will fall into place.
It is worth noting that in actual fact, the issue of lighting is not a problem, it is only important to understand “what and how much” you need under your herbalist. And after, you just need to purchase and install the selected option for additional lighting – it can be additional fluorescent lamps connected via ballast or electronic starter, it may be LED strip or LED panel, This may be the MG SD searchlight.
In this review, we took into account the conditions of our plants, calculated the required number of lumens and supplemented the staff aquarium refreshment. The issue was resolved in one day!
Be sure to study this issue, this will help you the above articles.
FERTILIZERS FOR HERBALS
In addition to lighting, plants need a complex of fertilizers that they consume in the process of photosynthesis. All fertilizers for aquarium plants can be divided into MACRO fertilizers, MICRO fertilizers and separately emit CO2 (carbon dioxide).
All these fertilizers are presented in Tetra lineup.
An important fertilizer for plants is carbon dioxide. The aquarist should first think about its sufficient amount. This is due to the fact that micro and macro fertilizers, in one or another quantity, will always be present in the water, even if they are not specially applied – they are in tap water, they are formed as a result of the vital activity of fish.
But CO2, alas, will always be missed.
Aquarium water is enriched with carbon dioxide in various ways:
See the articles for more details: CO2 for aquarium, CO2 pro and con.
In this review, in our tank we used a fermentation unit and the preparation Tetra CO2 Plus. And the thing is this: Tetra CO2 Plus, when introduced into aquarium water, decomposes into O2 (oxygen) and CO2 (carbon dioxide) in a form that is digestible for plants.
There are no analogues of this drug, it is not pentandial – an algicide, which is more aimed at combating algae rather than feeding CO2 plants. This is not a poison: an overdose, which can cause the death of hydrobionts.
At the same time, the supply of CO2 through the mash does not always give the desired result – over time, the intensity of carbon dioxide in the mash decays. In order to compensate for such an uneven supply of CO2, we will add Tetra CO2 Plus based on the drop-checker readings.
MICRO and MACRO fertilizer for the aquarium.
When growing herbalist in our review we used the following fertilizers:
Tetra PlantaPro Macro
Tetra PlantaPro Micro
The PlantaPro series is developed by Tetra for professional plant care. If you practice a herbalist at an amateur level, then one Tera PlantaMin will be enough.
In the issue of micro and macro fertilizers, you should pay attention to the fact that their dosage is strictly individual. The proportions of the application of these fertilizers are not specified by the manufacturer and we also will not be specified, because they are calculated for each aquarium herbalist personally, based on its volume and size, the power of lighting, the number of plants and the parameters of the water itself.
Properly configured filtration in a plant aquarium
As previously mentioned, the aquarium complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L includes all the necessary basic equipment. Including the kit includes an internal filter mounted, which is enough for high-quality filtration of aquarium water.
However, in our opinion, external filters are best suited for keeping a herbal tank. First, because they do not occupy space in the aquarium and do not interfere with the construction of an aquarium composition.
Secondly, with the help of an external filter, a better filtration of the aquarium is achieved. Thirdly, filtering through external filters is quiet, in all senses: the filter itself is noiseless and the current of water that creates a filter is “quiet” and adjustable.
We used an external filter in our herbalist. Tetra EX 600 Plus – The youngest in the line of external filters Tetra. Speaking about its qualitative characteristics, it should be said that this is a good filter, we have no complaints about it.
His standard equipment. However, it is worth noting three points that pleasantly pleased:
1. Tetra EX 600 Plus– the youngest in the Tetra filter line. That is, it has a minimum capacity and the ability to filter aquarium water for a certain period of time (liters / hour).
Many manufacturers of external filters produce a series of “younger” with a minimum number of internal compartments, due to their compactness (1-2 compartments). In this case, in the Tetra EX 600 Plus filter there are three compartments, which is very convenient, as it allows you to use even more filter fillers.
2. Despite the fact that Tetra EX 600 Plus is the youngest in the series, it is able to pass and filter up to 630 liters per hour. Which is very solid for similar filters (average value of 400-550 l / h).
3. The flute (nozzle for uniform distribution of water flow from the filter) is made of transparent plastic. This is very important for herbal aquarium, because tube does not violate the aesthetics.
What else is good external filter for herbalist? It is very convenient with him to regulate the flow of air and the flow of CO2. When there is no light in the aquarium, the filter flute rises above the water level and powerful water jets create an excellent aeration of the aquarium.
When the aquarium’s lighting turns on, the need for air disappears, the flute sinks into the water and the stream of water begins to accelerate the CO2 bubbles, which rise from the diffuser and distribute them throughout the aquarium. That is, thereby, improving the quality of water saturation with carbon dioxide.
If you buy sockets, timers and an additional pump for aeration, you can “automate” the aquarium — that is, you do not need to turn the lights on and off yourself, raise and lower the flute. At the appointed time, the light will turn on and off with simultaneous activation of the pump for aerating the aquarium at night.
In concluding the issue of filtration of aquarium water, it should be said that earlier, when starting the aquarium, we did not specifically use any drugs that reduce the concentration of nitrates in the aquarium (Tetra NitrateMinus Pearls). Precisely because the Tetra EX 600 Plus has three compartments for fillers.
And most recently, Tetra has released a new product. Tetra Balance Balls – special filter media that reduces the concentration of NO3.
We simply additionally poured a small amount of Tetra Balance Balls into one external filter compartment. The issue of excessive concentration of poisons resolved!
The advantage of using Tetra Balance Balls for an aquarium with plants is that if we need to increase the amount of NO3 (as fertilizer for plants), we can simply remove a certain part of the balls.
Care of the aquarium after launch
After the aquarium has been launched, the aquarist can breathe out a little and enjoy the first results of his work. However, you should not relax, because the most interesting things start ahead!
The aquarium is interesting because it is not a static picture with fish in the pond. Our site always encourages people to change their attitude to this amazing hobby and look at it in a new way. Aquaria is so surprising that it is atypical, there are no stereotypes, taboos, clear prescriptions.
Each individual aquarium is unique!
In aquaristics, perhaps, there is only one rule – you need to learn how to see and feel your aquarium. No need to perceive the aquarium problems and failures, as a tragedy. As Shakespeare said: “The bad, the good are not there, there is only how we call it!”
It is necessary to perceive everything with curiosity, study materials, study your aquarium world and, of course, first of all treat everything with love.
Correct adjustment of biological balance.
We are sure that if you stick to what is written in this article, you will succeed! Additionally, we recommend that you read the following articles to help you understand the meaning of biobalance in an aquarium:
Nitrites and nitrates in the aquarium forum;
The aquarium with densely planted plants has its own peculiarity! The biological balance in such an aquarium is much better tuned.
When starting the aquarium, we used starter preparations – Tetra AquaSafe, Tetra AquaStart, Tetra EasyBalance. The use of these drugs is the key to success and in fact negates all the problems associated with the establishment of biological equilibrium in the first month after the launch of the aquarium.
As can be seen from the tables and videos, using these drugs, we almost immediately take control of the nitrogen cycle and the decomposition of ammonia products, as well as turn the water supply into habitable aquarium fish.
Care for the aquarium with plants in the first month.
As a general rule, an aquarium in the first month does not require cleaning, water change and the aquarium bottom siphon! These rules apply to the aquarium with plants. But It is worth noting that, while containing an aquarium with plants, you must be prepared for a constant fight against algae, or rather for their oppression.
In the first month, after the launch of the aquarium, algae can pester the aquarist. This is due to the fact that the biobalance is not yet tuned, the planted plants have not yet become stronger, at the same time, bright and powerful lighting can cause the growth of the lower plant world.
When green algae appear on the walls and decorations of the aquarium, we do not recommend using any algaecides, preparations from algae, for the first month. It is better to simply wipe them off with a sponge, a special scraper or an unnecessary plastic card.
The use of fertilizers for plants in the first month.
An important component of the success of herbalist is the correct application of fertilizers for plants in the right proportions.
We recommend independently choosing the dosage of one or another fertilizer, taking into account all the components of your aquarium.
In the first month of the life of the aquarium, we do not recommend “zealous” with fertilizers. First, because when you start the aquarium fit nutritional substrate, and secondly, used tablets Tetra PlantaStart and Crupto– this will be quite enough for the newly planted plants. In the future, taking into account the condition of the aquarium, apply liquid and / or tableted fertilizers, starting with small doses.
See how the aquarium behaves in the future, adjust the dosage.
Always remember that a plant surplus can always take advantage of fertilizer – algae! For this reason, in aquariums with lush plants (scapes), frequent and high-quality replacement of aquarium water (from от to ½ part of the volume per week) is made.
Replacing water, we remove surplus accumulated fertilizers, level their accumulation.
Lighting the aquarium in the first month – daylight mode.
Aquarium lighting is an important tool for regulating plant growth and biobalance in general. Excessive lighting leads to algae growth, its deficiency leads to poor plant condition.
After the launch of the aquarium, we strongly do not recommend immediately using the generally accepted scheme of daylight hours 10-14 hours a day. In the first month, the lighting of the aquarium should be dosed and increased gradually.
Let’s say in the first week 5 hours, in the second 6 hours, in the third 8 hours and so on to normal – balance.
Temperature regime for the aquarium.
We must always remember that aquarium plants, like fish, need a stable temperature. Do not allow sudden changes in temperature.
It should also be borne in mind that most aquarium plants do not like heat. The general norm is 24-25 degrees.
OUR REPORT FOR THE FIRST MONTH
A month has passed since the launch of our aquarium. During this time we made one full-fledged substitution of aquarium water in 1/3 of the volume, as there was a small outbreak of algae, expressed in the formation of green dots on the front wall of the aquarium.
Sponge were made two easy cleaning the walls of the aquarium. From the second week we began to apply liquid fertilizers of the Pro series from Tetra in minimum quantities of 1 ml. three times a week.
A week later, the dosage was slightly increased. Fourth week fertilizer dosage
1.5-2.0 ml. Pro every other day + 1/2 doses of Tetra PlantaMin + CO2 Plus.
Plant growth Naturally, the first who “oklemalsya” after planting were unpretentious plants.
By the second week, an obvious growth was noticeable: common lyudvigii, ovalis lyudvigii, aponogeton, hygrophilic balsamic, proserpinaks. By the fourth week I had to thin out: Ludwigia, aphoheton. First harvest;)
More fastidious plants have also become accustomed, but naturally, due to their natural qualities, they do not provide rapid growth. Pleases Blix Japanese – one of the “harmful plants.”
Alternater colorate red – beet color, noticeably stretched.
Very happy mosses, for a month they shook off all the dust, which was formed at the start of the aquarium, and dissolved.
At the moment, the light day is 9 hours, the lighting is powerful, with a margin, so we in the filter compartment of the TetraEX 600 Plus additionally put a little specialized peat, which gave natural shading of the aquarium, a slight decrease in pH and kH.
Finally, we would like to share with you one interesting way of removing nitrites and nitrates from an aquarium – using phyto filtration. Many aquarists create a phyto-filter above the aquarium, where clayite is poured and plants are planted.
We offer you a light version of fitofiltration. The fact is that the aquarium cover, which is included in the complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L – very comfortable and has three windows.
So, if you do not burn with the desire to build gardens of Semiramis, mess with lighting or just want a cichlid! So you can buy bamboo, which is sold in any large flower shop. In fact, it is not bamboo, but dracaena sander – a percarnishing plant growing in water.
Three – four branches dracaena set in the aquarium, will pull poisons: nitrite and nitart, and look great over it.
Dracaena over the aquarium
Video clip of our aquarium
We hope that this material was useful for you! As you can see, the content of an aquarium with plants has its own specifics, the key to success in maintaining such an aquarium is perseverance, patience, prudence and a burning desire to achieve the goals set.
Video material from Tetra
about the launch and maintenance of the aquarium with live plants