maintenance, care, compatibility
Aquarium plants are all for beginners with photos and video
Plants are an established aquarium biosystem, no harmful substances in the water, no algae.
Everything is simple! Aquarium plants are the primary indicator of the status of your aquarium.
If the plants “wither”, turn yellow and rot – this is a sure sign of the poor condition of the aquarium and conversely lush, beautiful spreads – this is a 100% indicator of the excellent state of the aquarium world.
Aquarian plants are a natural interior and “maternity hospital” for fish, fry, shrimps, snails, etc.
Plants are an additional food for aquarium inhabitants.
By the way, about the question of the correct planting
the photo shows the rules of planting aquarium plants
A beautiful background for the design of the back wall of the aquarium is easily created with the help of special films on which images of the underwater world are applied. They can have just a rich blue color, creating the effect of depth and contrast.
But it is much more interesting to include the background, the size and volume of the tank, the decorations used and incorporate everything into your own designed aquarium: 250 liters; by the way.
It is worth noting that the background of the aquarium often gives the whole composition (especially volumetric) a unique charm and naturalness of the aquatic environment. It is easy to create it with your own hands, using, for example, polystyrene foam broken by different pieces, which is glued to the back wall of the aquarium and painted with special paint with intermittent strokes.
It turns out an excellent imitation of stone background. It can be made in a similar way, using pieces of bark from kryag.
The composition can be created from dead coral, stones from the sea reef. Small invertebrates, polyps and other inhabitants will find shelter in the marine aquarium.
The design of the aquarium, designed and executed by hand, allows for a considerable number of excellent ideas for plot aquariums using exotic plants, shells and sea stones. An incredible number of them can be realized by creating their own “rock gardens”.
And then with pleasure to watch the flickering on their background of bright fish with an unusual color.
The main thing – do not overdo it with decorative elements, plants and inhabitants of the aquarium. Everything should be harmoniously combined, to give pleasure to its creator and not to harm the fish.
Astronotus: content, compatibility, breeding, photo-video review
Many novice aquarists can again object to our opinion, however, the recommended volume for a pair of astronotus is an aquarium from 500 liters. Such a volume will be comfortable for them.
Of course, astronotus can be found in aquariums of 250 liters or less, but this is not the norm! Such volumes lead to the “tightening” of fish, to disease and early death. In addition, we must not forget that the astronotus is a big fish that emit a lot of waste products.
The content of astronotus in small volumes leads to the accumulation and high concentration of poisons: ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
Wallisneria maintenance and care in the aquarium, species, breeding, photo-video review
maintenance and care, species, reproduction, photo-video review
Wallisneria is one of the most unpretentious aquarium plants. If you have never had an aquarium, you do not have experience in growing aquarium plants, start with Vallisneria. She does not need any special care.
There are no stringent requirements for lighting, water or soil parameters. Vallisneria goes well with other aquarium plants, grows quickly and looks good on the side and background of the aquarium.
Family: Water colors (Hydrocharitaceae)
Unpretentious aquarium plant. Due to the large size it needs an aquarium of solid parameters. For this reason, giant gallium is not popular among aquarists.
It grows with proper lighting evenly throughout the year.
Growing area: Southeast Asia.
Appearance: large bushes straight stiff leaves up to 1 m in length, different shades of green.
Priming: coarse (pebbles or sand with a grain of 3-4 mm), nutritious. The plant feels good from old aquariums, where there is a large amount of organic matter.
Soil thickness – not less than 8 cm.
Lighting: bright, 12 hour light day. If the aquarium is low, lateral lighting is desirable, as an addition to the upper one.
Comfortable temperature: 22-26 ° С, it should not be allowed to fall below 20 ° С. Ph acidity: mild, weakly acidic medium.
Stiffness dH: less than 8 °.
Regular water changes are not critical.
Accommodation in the aquarium: can only be grown in a large aquarium.
Reproduction: vegetative, layering.
Growing area: Northern Australia.
This wallisneria has a short rhizome, forms lateral shoots. In an aquarium it reaches sizes up to 30-60 cm, which depends on the power of lighting and the nutritional value of the medium.
The plant has dark green narrow leaves. The leaves in the socket, much narrower than those of other members of the genus Vallisneria, and not very long. It has small teeth on the edge on the top of the sheet.
Wallisneria nana has two forms: either the leaves are hard and up to 15 cm long, or thin, ribbon-like, drooping, surprisingly narrow, smooth, up to 60 cm long.
It is unassuming, like all Wallisnerias, a fast-growing aquarium plant. It is recommended for decorating the middle and background in small aquariums.
It has a longer growth phase and is more light-loving than other Wallisnerias, otherwise unpretentious. Wallisneria nana well develops in alkaline water of medium hardness at a temperature of 25-29 ° С, tolerates deviations from the specified parameters. It forms many lateral processes and develops well under good conditions.
The dwarf Wallisneria has a longer period of adaptation than the other Wallisnerias. If the plant is well taken, it will continuously give daughters.
The author of the article is Irina Gorobets,
for the provided material and cooperation!
Appearance: Vallisneria is a beautiful shrub with narrow ribbon-like leaves from 10 to 80 cm long. Vallisneria foliage is usually strong and elastic; different shades of green and red.
Herbivorous inhabitants of the aquarium are not dangerous, except for digging species that can pull out a poorly rooted plant. Some forms of Vallisneria have very sharp leaves due to small cloves. Therefore, you need to carefully handle it, so as not to cut your fingers.
In nature, sometimes in home pond conditions, subject to the presence of abundant sunlight, valisneria blooms with beautiful small bells that adorn the water surface.
Root system: developed in moderation. Milky yellow roots up to 10 cm in length. The roots are elastic, not prone to morbidity, easily, compactly assembled and planted in the hole during planting.
Deepening – with an open root neck.
Priming: composition and structure are not fundamental. Ideal – gravel fraction from 4 to 6 mm. Soil thickness – 4 cm.
The substrate should be the most permeable, then the plant will take root faster and develop well.
Comfortable temperature: from 18 to 32 ° C. If the water is cooled for a long time to 15 ° C and tends to decrease, the plant may die.
Ph acidity: weak or neutral.
Stiffness dH: average.
Salinity of water: from 0 to 20 ppm.
If you have a frame aquarium or bad tap water, watch the rust concentration in it, the plant does not like it. An excess of copper in water also affects the development of Vallisneria.
This metal can get into the aquarium together with preparations against snails and algae, as well as with medicines for the treatment of fish.
Vallisneria americana var. americana
The plant is unpretentious, does not require much attention. American valisneria has many forms that vary in width and length of leaves.
Growing area: Eastern North America.
Forms and appearance: leaves are collected, in the form of rosettes, ribbon-shaped, brittle and soft, sometimes at the edges with the teeth. Representatives of the American Vallisneria subspecies may differ in the structure of the sheet plate and its color (from various shades of green to many shades of red).
Leafy handicaps: leaf width is about 10 mm, with several veins and distinct horizontal strokes.
Broadleaf forms: sheet width up to 25 mm, the vein can be from 5 to 9 pieces. Priming: loose, rich in nutrients, up to 7 cm thick, in tandem with liquid and horse fertilizers, which include iron, is the best option for the full development of the plant.
Lighting: bright, 12-hour light day.
Comfortable temperature: 20-28 ° C.
Ph acidity: 6.5-8.
Stiffness dH: 5-15 °.
Accommodation in the aquarium: When planting a vallisneria in your aquarium, it should be remembered that the plant grows up to 1 m in height, therefore it can significantly impair the coverage of the underwater world of your pond. If you nevertheless decided to acquire such water weed, then pick up the inhabitants of the aquarium, which is acceptable muffled light.
It is worth noting that Vallisneria americana is most attractive in very large aquariums. A good planting option is about 4 plants per 20 cm2.
American Wallisneria is a background plant, so they are planted along the back and side walls of the aquarium.
The complexity of care: low.
Trimming: you can cut the leaves, but not necessary. After pruning, the plant’s appearance deteriorates and its growth weakens.
Reproduction: vegetative, uniform.
Soil and nutritional substrate for aquarium plants: selection, preparation, laying
What begins any hardscape? Of course, from the base: from the selection, preparation and laying of aquarium soil.
In this article I would like to elaborate in detail about the features of the use of a particular aquarium soil, the order and specifics of laying the substrate for aquarium plants.
In principle, most of the points that will be discussed in this article are applicable to other types of aquarium, but still the emphasis will be placed on a herbalist, a Dutch, Amman aquarium.
The choice of aquarium soil for plants
I think that for many aquarists it will not be a secret that in addition to quartz and granite chips, there are special grounds for different aquariums – with plants, with shrimps, etc.
Why all? Because the substrate of the aquarium plays the most important role in his life. The future of the running aquarium depends on its properties and characteristics.
Soil is not only a biofilter from NO2 NO3, it is also a certain composition, certain properties that allow you to comfortably live and develop specifically taken aquatic organisms.
Therefore, the choice of aquarium soil should be approached especially carefully and do not regret money for high-quality substrates!
At the same time, you can use ordinary, inexpensive soils … as they say, this question is purely individual. In any case, you initially have to decide what you want to see in your aquarium — soil-growing plants (hemianthus, elioharissa, glossygosmma, etc.) or mosses, or huge burdock plants (echinodorus, cryptocoryne, etc.).
If you are not going to arrange a garden in the aquarium (1/2, 2/3 of the aquarium), if the plants you are going to plant are not very pretentious to the substrate, then you can safely choose the usual (preferably unpainted) soil corresponding to fractions.
However, not all conventional soils are suitable for aquarium plants and they need to be checked for solubility or in other words for increased stiffness.
How to do it? It’s very simple, put aquarium soil in a bowl and pour 9% vinegar there.
If the ground began to hiss (bubbles and a characteristic hiss went, as when opening a soda), then this soil is not suitable for (most) aquarium plants. If you have the opportunity (for example, in a pet store, the soils are sold by weight), then the above-described manipulation is best done with a purchase, dripping a little vinegar on the soil you like.
Why it is impossible to use hissing aquarium soil?
Hissing of the soil, says that it increases the rigidity – increases DH, KH and PH. Most aquarium plants love and even require “soft water”, their maintenance in “hard water”, in “hard ground” is difficult.
In addition, the soil sizzling (calcera-containing, for example, marble chips) not only affects the hardness of the water … this is not the main problem for plants. A serious problem is that most of the micro and macro elements that absorb the roots of aquarium plants are absorbed by them in the form of humic acids.
In neutral soil is established weakly acidic environment, which contributes to plant nutrition, through the roots. And, here if. the soil gives out excess calcium, this does not happen and the plants have a problem with feeding through the root system.
You may have a question – why are they selling such “hissing” primer in stores? Why not sell neutral?
The answer is very simple. First, neutral soil is more expensive, and secondly, “hissing” soil is suitable and even useful for keeping most African cichlids that prefer hard water.
Special soils for aquarium plants
The choice of special groats for aquarium plants is diverse. In fact, every major brand has its own line of substrates for aquarium plants.
All of them meet the needs of aquarium plants – they are light and porous, which contributes to the absence of oxygen-free zones and favorable growth of colonies of beneficial bacteria in the soil. They are neutral and contain the necessary macro elements for plants.
All the variety of such substrates can be divided by small strokes, brand and price tag. Below is an example of the soil that I use – a kind of combination of price and quality.
Aquael Aqua Grunt and / or Aquael Aqua Floran – specialized substrate for aquarium plants with a large number of minerals. It contains many necessary and useful elements (iron, magnesium, aluminum and silicon), which enrich the water in the aquarium with useful minerals and trace elements. Aquael Aqua Grunt promotes fast and lush plant growth in an aquarium.
Aqua aqua soil consists of light porous granules, does not contain nitrogen compounds and phosphates. The porous structure of the soil prevents the appearance of an anaerobic zone in the deeper parts of the soil and is an ideal substrate for the development of beneficial bacteria to facilitate the rooting of newly planted plants. The substrate remains active for many years and does not require an additive. It is recommended to lay a layer of washed gravel under a layer of 1.5-2 cm under 3 cm.
One package with a capacity of 3 liters is enough to fill a standard 60 cm long aquarium.
– ensure the circulation of water in the substrate;
– prevent the appearance of anaerobic zones;
– ideal substrates for beneficial bacteria;
– facilitate rooting of plants;
– active for many years and do not require supplementation;
– completely harmless to fish;
– do not cause a change in water color or transparency;
– do not contain nitrogen compounds and phosphates;
– do not require washing before use;
– contains minerals;
– promotes rooting;
Packaging 3 liters per 60 cm length of the aquarium.
Good proven soil))), Polish! For garden pochvokvki can be used without the main soil.
Substrates, nutritious soil for aquarium plants
No less important substrate for plants are nutrient soils. Their variety is also very large.
Substrates for aquarium plants should be distinguished from Aquael Grunt soils, as these are not granules, but nutrient substrates consisting mainly of: clay and peat, as well as other components. Substrates can be applied both with ordinary soil and with Aquael Aqua Soil type substrates.
Nutritious substrate for aquarium plants – It is a nutrient store in the soil. It fits under the bottom of the ground, makes it possible to achieve effective growth of aquatic plants with relatively small financial investments.
When choosing a substrate, it is worth paying attention to the composition of nutrients that will come with it to the aquarium. With some manufacturers you can get a set of trace elements and iron, while others feed with nitrates, phosphates and other useful substances.
Nutrient grounds – provide nutrition of aquatic plants through the roots and support their growth, also stabilizes the aquatic environment, normalizes the water parameters. Aquarium plants are able to absorb nutrients, both through the leaves and through the root system. Many species of plants in an aquarium in their natural habitat in dry weather live for months as marsh and at this time they develop an extensive root system in the ground through which they receive water and nutrients.
Usually, such aquatic plants are strong absorbers of nutrients and require good soil in aquarium for good growth. And therefore, the consumption of nutrients only through the leaves is not enough for them. Liquid fertilizers can be used in an aquarium only as an addition to nutrition, but in no way replace a rich nutrient soil.
Therefore, it is very important to choose the right nutrient soils and substrates for your aquarium!
It should be noted that in spite of the usefulness of such substrates, they should not be used in an aquarium, where there will be two – three spreads. Such substrates need good herbalists.
In addition, nutrient soils require stronger filtration, otherwise the water may turn sour.
Below is a description of the substrate that I use.
JBL AquaBasis plus – This is a ready-made mixture of nutrients for aquarium plants. Used when launching new aquariums.
Provides asthenia with all nutrients for healthy and fast growth. D & B Aqua Basis contains iron, trace elements and minerals that all aquatic plants need. Favorable fast, healthy and strong development of the root system of plants.
The clay in the mixture acts as a storage pantry for nutrients, which binds nutrients when they are oversupplied and releases in case of shortages. Provides long-term and complete nutrition of aquarium plants.
Does not contain phosphates and nitrates, causing the growth of unwanted algae. Validity 3 years!
Application: Contents 5 kg. a package is enough for an aquarium of 100-200 liters. It is laid on the bottom of the aquarium with a uniform layer about 2 cm high. A layer of the main soil about 4 cm high with a fraction of 2-3 mm is laid on top.
Do not use coarse gravel!
Video about JBL AquaBasis plus
There are also separate additives and dressings for plants that fit into the ground. Their compositions are different.
In my opinion, the best supplements are thermal-containing feedings. As an additional feeding in my herbalist, I used clean, crushed tourmaline, which I bought as a stone and ground it into powder.
Read more here!
Laying aquarium soil for plants
So, as you understand, the substrate for aquarium plants is a layer cake, which plays an important role in the life of plants.
Once again, the underlining that the use of special substrates for aquarium plants is needed only in “dense herbalists”.
Sometimes, an aquarium design with live aquarium plants is planned so that the plants are in a certain part of the aquarium, for example, in the corner. The rest of the aquarium is free and other decorations are placed on it – stones, snags, etc.
In this case, nutrient substrates should be placed only in the part of the aquarium where the plants will be. At the same time for the delimitation of the zone, you can use ordinary cardboard partitions.
How, for example, does it Takashi Amano at the Moscow seminar.
Below, I will give the scheme by which I laid the soil in
your “dense” herbalist
one. At the bottom of the aquarium, two capsules of a dry biostrater were scattered to speed up the adjustment of the biobalance and the development of a colony of beneficial bacteria in the soil.
And also, two tablespoons (without a hill) of tourmaline powder are evenly scattered.
2. JBL Aqua Basis plus is laid in a layer of 2 cm.
3 Part of the AquaEl Aqua Grunt package.
Scattered for easy mixing with JBL Aqua Basis plus and creating a smooth mass heterogeneity.
four. The basic, usual soil is laid (a crumb of 2-3 ml.).
five. The remaining parts of the AquaEl Aqua Grunt package.
It was scattered to the very top, since predominantly the herbalist consists of the cube chemionus and the elioharis, which, it is extremely dreary to plant, due to its small size. To lighter soil, these plants are easier to take root.
6 And at the end another spoon was spilled, another tourmaline.
And also, while thinking about the cube, the powder from the Tetra PlantaStart tablet, which contains hormones for quicker and better rooting of plants, is scattered.
Here is such a solid layer turned out!
The above scheme is naturally not a dogma, but serves as only one example of laying aquarium soil for plants.
The use of soil in the aquascape
DIY Aquarium Lighting, LED Lights in Aquarium
DIY Aquarium Lighting, LED Lights in Aquarium
One of the key moments of maintaining a healthy, beautiful aquarium with lush aquarium plants is LIGHTING. Highlights of the selection of aquarium lighting have already been covered on FanFishka.ru, in this ARTICLE.
Here, I would like to share with the reader my experience of creating a high-grade, high-quality lighting for an aquarium with live aquarium plants.
So, we will discuss the creation of mixed lighting: the installation of LED spotlights (hereinafter referred to as “SD projector”) in a plastic aquarium cover and a T5 fluorescent lamp (hereinafter “LL T5”). Also in this article we will consider the installation of coolers in the aquarium to cool the water in the summer.
CONSIDER ALL QUESTIONS BY ORDER:
– What is mixed lighting, why is it needed, what are the advantages?
– Why precisely LED spotlight? –
– Why precisely in the cover?
– Why do I need a T5 lamp?
– Choosing a cd spotlight?
– What do you need to create lighting with your own hands?
– The process of assembling aquarium lighting in the home.
– How much is it?
– Is it worth bothering? What is the effect?
What is mixed lighting, why is it needed, what are the advantages?
MIXED LIGHTING – It is a combination of different sources of lighting. A good example of such lighting is the ADA Solar I luminaire, where Takashi Amano combines a metal halide floodlight MH-HQI 150W with two LL T5 lamps of 36 watts each.
In general, if we talk about high-quality aquarium lighting, then in my opinion a metal halide spotlight (hereinafter – MG) in combination with LL is the best option. Such lighting “breaks through” even the deepest aquariums, the characteristics of such lighting are as close as possible to natural, natural lighting. Well, and a visual row, you just will please – sparkling glare of waves at the bottom of the aquarium, the shadows of plants and fish, natural, rich colors.
Why do you need such mixed lighting? It’s very simple to recreate the “effect of the sun” in your tank: the effect of sunrise, zenith and sunset.
Agree, the Sun does not fry 24 hours a day, the maximum intensity of sunlight is observed only during the day – at lunchtime. The rest of the time, the Sun either rises or sets, the intensity of illumination gradually increases and then decreases.
Approximately the same effect can be achieved with a mixed luminaire (lighting), when LL T5 (sunrise) is switched on first, then a searchlight (zenith) is added for 3-4 hours, and then (LL T5) again work (sunset) again.
The advantages of such lighting are clear:
1. Aquarium plants get the most natural light. Set a certain rhythm.
2. Prevention of algal outbreak. Powerful, long-lasting, and even more so illumination leads to the “greening” of the aquarium.
It is only necessary to create a peak of activity of lighting, and not to “fry” an aquarium for 12 hours a day.
3. At the same time, the presence of powerful, directional and high-quality lighting in sufficient quantities is the key to success!
Why LED led spotlight? Why precisely in the cover?
The only significant drawback of the metal halide lamp is that it heats up very much. Alas, such lighting can be used only in open aquariums (without a cover), at a distance of at least 30 cm from the surface of the water, while using hangers or stoics for the lamp.
When I decided the question of what kind of lighting would be in my aquarium, I proceeded from the assumption that the aquarium would be closed (with a lid). Firstly, the spouse wanted so much))), secondly, I agreed with her that the aquarium with the lid looks at home, as it is more comfortable, plus at home cats who watch “Aqua-TV” every evening, and all the same, the house is not an exhibition center and not an ADA laboratory … metal halide spotlights in a house are a bust!
But, here everyone decides for himself … my opinion is not a dogma.
So, an analogue of the metal-halogen spotlight is the LED. Immediately I will note the word “analog” in quotes … yet there is a significant difference.
First, LED lighting, in contrast to the MG discrete. Discreteness (from the Latin. discretus – divided, intermittent) – a property opposed to continuity, discontinuity.
To explain on the fingers, below the photo example, what a continuous and discrete spectrum looks like.
Thus, we see that the spectrum of LEDs, to put it mildly, is not the best. And the thing is, not even in the peaks of red and blue, namely, that aquarium plants in fact, in the process of photosynthesis, absorb the entire visible spectrum, and it is deficient in diabetes.
What is the similarity between MG and SD, you ask? Why initially do such “poor-quality” lighting?
The answers to these questions will reveal the benefits of CD spotlights.
1. Like the metal halide spotlight, the LED has directional lighting. That is, the efficiency of LEDs is much higher than, for example, in fluorescent lamps, the effective use of which is possible only with reflectors. Speaking in everyday language, the SD and MG projecters “beat” one way, and not “sprayed” at all.
It is this property that makes it possible to “pierce” MG and SD spotlights the deepest aquariums and the water column of 60 centimeters or more.
2. Unlike MG, the LED spotlight does not emit excessive heat. Verified
From the front side, the LED searchlight does not heat up at all, and the back part heats up, but is tolerable (tolerable for a hand and a plastic cover). Some aquarists are advised to put a cooler on the CD for heat, but so far even now, when it’s 36 on the street, I see no need for that.
Again, this is not a constant, everyone has their own specifics.
3. LED lighting is by far the most economical lighting. You will save 3, 10 times on electricity.
4. A significant drawback, for example, of fluorescent lamps, is their flickering with a frequency that is noticeable even to the eye. In this connection, with a long-term effect of LL on a person, his eyes very quickly get tired.
LED lamps are powered by direct current, so they have no flickering.
5. Other positive aspects of diabetes: safety (work at low voltage, which is important for the aquarium business) and long life (up to 100,000 hours).
Why do I need a T5 lamp? From the fact that T5 fluorescent lamps are better than T8, I think they already know a lot, so I will not focus on this particular attention here.
I used LL T5 in my case, firstly, to create mixed lighting, and secondly, to make up for the discreteness of the LED spectrum.
Namely, the so-called “Full Spectrum” lamp was used.
Fluorescent lamp for the aquarium, designed to provide intensive lighting. The JBL Solar Ultra Color T5 lamp has increased power compared to standard T8 lamps and has a full range of colors.
When using a JBL Solar Ultra Color lamp in an aquarium, you will gain increased red and blue color transmission of aquarium fish and other inhabitants of the aquarium.
Having a higher proportion of red and blue in the spectrum, the JBL Solar Ultra Color aquarium lamp stimulates the synthesis of chlorophylls, which in turn speeds up the process of photosynthesis.
Naturally, this lamp was installed with a reflector / reflector. I note that I wanted to initially install 2 such lamps, for uniform lighting and good power, but alas, the dimensions of the cover did not allow to do this.
The choice of LED spotlight
To the selection and acquisition of LED spotlight must be treated with special scruples. This is a very important and expensive moment, without paying enough attention to that, you can simply throw your money away.
Since I am a pioneer on FanFishka, I had to subtract a lot of information, review a lot of characteristics of various projectors and LED panels, collect scant information on forums and talk with a few experts on the LED case.
And so, what conclusion was made! Per 100-110 l. Aquarium, net volume need:
1. Two LED spotlights. Since they have a directional light and one, albeit a more powerful searchlight does not cover the entire area of the bottom and the reservoir as a whole.
If the cover allows, you can put three spotlights (of lesser power), which will give you more confidence that the spotlights will not burn quickly. Alas, the repair of SD-spotlights are not subject. Less powerful spotlights heat less, respectively, the risks are reduced.
At the same time, the smaller the watt of diabetes, the less its “penetrating” ability and its other characteristics, too. In general, all you need to calculate and estimate.
2. Everyone knows that LED lighting is much more powerful than the nominal. That is, the power of LEDs in watts to measure at least not correctly.
So I asked the question, but how many watts then is needed in my aquarium. To believe the sellers in the market who say: “Multiply by three years and there will be those real wats” is stupid!
In general, I had to rummage in this matter and find clearer information.
And the truth is quite simple, lighting, in addition to watts, has a lot of characteristics, including the so-called Lumens – is the amount of light emitted / emitted by the light source. A light source with a luminous flux of 1 lumen, which uniformly illuminates any surface of 1 square meter, creates on it (surfaces) an illumination of 1 lux.
Experienced, aquarists have found that for a good herbalist, for the Dutch and Amanovo aquarium, you need 40-50 lumens per liter of pure water.
The task was solved and the choice of searchlights became extremely specific – you need two searchlights so that in the sum of their Lumens they give 50 Lm / l.
3. And the last two important points when choosing a CD projector are all the same: spectrum and Kelvin.
As it turned out, the searchlights were full of variety: there was a warm glow, a cold glow, I even came across RGB searchlights (and for a long time I understood what that kind of thing was))). But, we only need one searchlight – with a spectrum as close as possible to daylight.
This type of LED has the best characteristics.
Kelvin (K) – This is the color temperature of any light source. This is the measure of our impression of the color of this light source. For maintenance of aquarium plants, it is recommended from 6500 to 8000 K.
What do you need to create lighting in the aquarium with your own hands and how much will it cost?
First, you need skillful hands, without them in any way))) As well as tools, preferably: drill, electric jigsaw, Bulgarian, other small tools (screwdrivers, keys, pliers, etc.). If you do not have a jigsaw or grinder, do not despair.
You just have to do everything “manually”, for example, with a hacksaw or sawing.
I am “modernsirval” aquarium cover TM “Nature” (plastic, with two integrated LL T8, ballast and starters), like this: Acquired two CD prozhetora 30W, TM “Feron” model LL 730. Features: daylight 6500K, 2850 lumen (by the way, 2 SD * 2850Lm = 5700Lm / 110l.vody = 51.8lm / l).
Acquired Aquaelev electronic starter for LL T5. Such a choice was made in order to minimize the “stuffing” of the aquarium cover, the place under which is worth its weight in gold.
Acquired previously voiced T5 lamp JBL Solar Ultra Color T5, 28 W, 60 cm. + reflector.
Socket – voltage relay. It is necessary for safety and the prevention of power surges. In such an outlet, voltage limits are set, after which the equipment is de-energized.
Sockets timers (2 pcs.). Required for automatic on / off lighting. It makes life easier and clearly controls the time of the filing of a particular lighting.
Electronic sockets-timers were purchased for lighting, since, unlike mechanical ones, they do not go astray. For example, when the network is de-energized, they “remember everything” and after the resumption of power supply, they work according to a predetermined schedule. To install coolers (fans), you will need: 2-a computer cooler for 12W and a voltage adapter, respectively, 12W.
I purchased an adapter with a switch W from 0 to 12 W, it is convenient to reduce or increase the speed of rotation of the coolers and, accordingly, the degree of cooling. And also to reduce noise, if necessary.
You will also need: Silicone (building and aquarium), fasteners (bolts, nuts, screws), tie-holders for spotlights (preferably aluminum, so as not to rust), wires (strong and three-core), are needed to connect spotlights, coolers, plugs under spotlights with ground connection.
The process of assembling aquarium lighting The process of assembling and installing aquarium lighting with their own hands is different for everyone, since everyone has different covers. I will describe my process.
1. First, connect the power cord and plug to the spotlights. From the spotlight comes a three-core wire (with ground), respectively, you need to attach to it the same wire. Do not listen to smart sellers in building supermarkets.
When I bought the wire I was told, they say: “What are you. / censorship /, ground lights. In general, believe only in yourself and reliable information, and not “woe to the specialists”, who probably understand only cheap vodka.
Photo can be increased paint
2. Next, remove all the “old insides” cover.
3. Make the layout and cut out the holes for the spotlight. This manipulation must be done very carefully, so that the illumination of the spotlights will be uniform – throughout the aquarium.
4. Install the spotlights and fix them with a tie and fasteners.
5. All silicone and seal. Remove special attention to metal parts (if used), make good silicone so that rust does not get into the aquarium.
6. After checking the performance and proceed to the installation of coolers.
7. Making holes for coolers in opposite sides of the cover.
8. Mount the cooler. One cooler is placed on blowing, the other on blowing.
9. Connect the cooler to the adapter, check the performance.
10. After all the wires stretch around the perimeter of the cover and fasten with silicone.
11. Install T5 and Aquaelev electronic starter in the last turn, based on the availability of free space under the cover. SD and LL should not overlap.
It looks like the electrical connection under the aquarium
How much is it? Cover – in stock.
Searchlight (30W) – 2800 rubles. * 2 = 5600 rubles.
Aquaelev electronic starter – 1200 rubles.
T5 JBL Solar Ultra Color T5, 28 W, 60 cm. – 750 rubles.
Reflector – I used homemade, because Standard not intermeddle.
Relay socket – 400 rubles.
Socket timer – 350 rubles * 2 = 700 rubles.
Extension cable with off buttons = 400 rubles.
Power adapter 12W – 210 rubles.
Fasteners, wires, plugs, silicone, screed, and other trifles – 500 rubles. (about).
TOTAL: 9760 rubles. ($ 275)
Is it worth bothering? What is the effect?
Definitely worth it. The price of the issue is not so global, and the effect is stunning.
My plants immediately bubbled up even without T5, with the T5 after two hours of intense lighting, an “oxygen blizzard” begins. And this is a clear sign – effective and high-quality lighting. The plants themselves grow like weeds in the garden.
And the aquarium sparked and transformed beyond recognition.
Here are the primary photos of the aquarium and plants with bubbles