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Moss javanese content in aquarium

maintenance, care, compatibility

It is probably difficult to find an aquarium owner who would not like to have aquatic vegetation that meets all requirements at once: easy to breed, useful for living creatures, unpretentious and, most importantly, with a stunning appearance and ample opportunities for aqua design. But there is such an aquatic plant!

It is called Javanese moss, or in Latin Vesicularia dubyana. There is another name – Java Moss.

Properties and place in the aquatic system of a small artificial reservoir

Javanese moss has earned widespread use in almost any volume of aquariums due to its multifaceted properties. It can be used both for decorating the internal space and for keeping aquarium fish, in whose life it can be of great importance.

In addition, this green carpet plays a significant role in the circulation of substances inside a small body of water.

There are a lot of options for using Javanese moss as a decor. But most often it is attached to the bollards, stones, the outer surface of artificial caves and caves.

Such decor looks very impressive for several years and almost does not require separate maintenance.

Moss can also be spread out at the bottom of the tank, creating colorful green glades, and in some aquariums these glades float in the water column, constantly attracting the attention of aquarium inhabitants.

Also interesting is the attachment of moss to the tops of the vertical elements of the kryag. This decor at the bottom of the aquarium resembles trees with a lush crown.

With side illumination looks great!

For small ornamental fish, aquarium shrimps and fry, the arched interweaving of stalks and leaves of javanese moss is a reliable shelter from voracious neighbors.

Vegetation can, if necessary, play the role of a spawning substrate. Tiny eggs, falling into a layer of moss, become inaccessible for eating, and many of them persist until the appearance of young fish, and microscopic ciliates living inside the carpet are an excellent food for fry in the first days of their existence.

The principle of planting this vegetation is simple: seedlings (bush) must be attached to the surface, and it will grow to it independently over time. What can be attached?

Some aquarists use a simple thin line for this. To attach the moss to the bark, stone or other objects should be so as not to hurt the finest leaves.

After a week or two, when the rhizoids tightly join the substrate, the line can be carefully removed. Thin natural cotton threads will work too.

They can then not be removed, they will rot and gradually dissolve in water.

It’s a little harder to create vertical surfaces. If you want to make a green background on the back of the aquarium, the bushes of seedlings are in turn uniformly tied to a plastic grid, which is then installed vertically.

This method of landing will take much more time.

In the first week the young moss grows very slowly. This is understandable: the rhizoids need a certain period for the so-called rooting.

In about 1-2 weeks, the vegetation will begin to grow rapidly on the substrate.

Java moss is very popular. And the point is not that he is unassuming and does not need strict care.

The availability of plant material for the realization of their creative fantasies in aqua-design – this is what Java Moss is famous for in the communities of aquarists of all countries.

Javanese moss grown in an aquarium is very simple, unlike many other fastidious plants. Does not need special lighting or dressing. It will thrive in low-light aquariums and may suffer if there is excessively bright light in the aquarium.

In this case, it will be covered with algae, which will cover the stems, leading to extinction.

See how Javanese moss grows.

Java moss is constantly moving in the aquarium, so it is attached to the rocks or snags. Visually, it looks stunning. Looks great in the background of the aquarium.

You can tie it with a fishing line or using a flexible net, but you should make sure that it is completely non-toxic. In a month he will get used to the place, and the line can be removed.

The minimum size of the aquarium for planting moss – 100-150 liters. Water conditions: pH 5.0-8.0, temperature 18-30 ° C, hardness 4-15o.

It is not recommended to transplant often from a place on it, it will adversely affect its growth. Changing the aquarium water is desirable, but it is important that javanese moss is not covered with bloom. If it appears, it is rinsed with running water.

Frequent change of water in the aquarium weakens the plant due to the rapid growth of algae deposited on its stems.

Java moss serves as an excellent shelter and protection for small fish, their fry or shrimp. It can be used as a substrate for spawning. Eggs falling on its leaves are protected from other fish that could find them on bare walls or at the bottom of the aquarium.

Often it is used for thickets spawning, where they will breed barbs, keels and iris.

Java moss quickly grows and spreads over the entire area of ​​the aquarium. Breeding it is as easy as that of any moss.

It is propagated by dividing the mother bush, so each piece that will be torn out will reproduce at the same place another dense bundle of Javanese moss. If you place several tufts of moss in the aquarium, the bush will quickly grow. In an adult plant you can tear off one whorl with several sprigs.

Press it to the bottom with a stone, or tie it.

When the moss reaches the upper layers of water, then over time it will begin to multiply by spores. On the stems, which are under water, black shoots are formed with dark brown capsules on which there are spores. All mature spores fall in water, later form a proton, a new plant will emerge from it.

But such a breeding method rarely occurs in a closed reservoir, because the current and fish often bother him.

In order to grow java moss, you do not need a primer. It can root on large stones, and on tree snags, and even on plastic hoses and filter tubes.

The most difficult time for a plant when the moss begins to take root is that during this period it needs more light.

Watch the lilyus build a nest of javanese moss.

The maintenance of a moss is admissible in well lit aquarium. If it grows fast, you can periodically cut it.

With fertilizer, grows even faster, the bush will find a rich green color. The fishes themselves supply it with the necessary additional feeding, therefore it is not necessary to add organic substances on their own.

Java moss prefers a small stream of water, which is created using a filter. The plant can be found on fountains, waterfalls, perfectly adapts to the water and on land. This is an excellent seedling for botanical greenhouses.

If the flow in the aquarium is strong, it will clog the entire aquarium filter and its opening, immediate cleaning will be required.

The maintenance of javanese moss requires the aquarist to observe certain conditions. The plant can be placed both in the greenhouse and in the aquarium.

In nature, Javanese moss often grows out of water onto land, growing to the log, and its surface part looks much more attractive than underwater. The plant likes the presence of a small flow in the tank, so you need to monitor the aquarium filters, near which grows moss, often twine its branches and clog their holes.

The best temperature for keeping Javanese moss in an aquarium is 25-28 ° С, at a low temperature the plant stops growing. Water should always be clean, turbid water can contribute to the development of plaque and algae in the tank, from which Javanese moss will not only lose its attractiveness, but may also completely die.

Water hardness has a large range: from 4 to 15 °, acidity 5.7-8, moss can even live in tap or brackish water.

For the life of a plant, the brightness of the light does not matter; it needs strong illumination only during the rooting period. However, intense light can trigger an increase in green color and the growth of Javanese moss.

Aquarium mosses or all about msharnnik: design, types, photo-video review

In this chapter we will talk about the basics of the arrangement of a borer and consider the typical mistakes that beginner aquarists make.

So firstly let’s immediately cut off the “wrong questions” that newcomers to search engines ask. Namely: “How to get rid of moss in an aquarium”, “black moss in an aquarium”, “round moss for an aquarium”, “Kladofora moss”, etc. All of the above, has no relation to mosses and is called algae.

For more information about algae, see the article: Algae in the aquarium, know the enemy in the face.

Secondly, often on the Internet you can see the information that when setting up an aquarium with mosses, you do not need to use the ground. This is explained by the fact that mosses do not have roots and do not use the substrate as a power source.

All nutrients – fertilizers mosses taken directly from the water. Therefore, the presence of soil in the aquarium with mosses is useless.

Ostensibly from the soil in the aquarium is formed only suspension and dirt, which mosses do not like very much.

We can not agree with these arguments, for the following reasons.

Both the foundation for the house and the aquarium soil play a crucial role in the life of the aquarium! Novice aquarists very often pay attention only to the decorative properties of the soil and miss its most important function.

Aquarian soil is a unique biological filter, powerful and irreplaceable by nothing else.

The fact is that after the launch of the aquarium in the ground colonies of beneficial bacteria settle in, which process waste products (hereinafter – PJ) of aquatic organisms into harmless substances. I also call this process the ammonia cycle – the transition cycle of the PJ. in ammonia and then in its decay products – nitrites, nitrates.

Thus, if there is no soil in the aquarium, then all biological filtration processes will be minimized. Yes, of course, biological filtration can be carried out through the installed filter, but it is worth noting that the lion’s share of the beneficial bacteria nitrifying live in the soil, and not in the filter.

In turn, excessive concentrations of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate cause the growth of algae, which do not like mosses, because mosses simply die from them.

From the above, it can be concluded that the soil in the aquarium with mosses should be present.

Creating an aquarium with mosses, we used the previously launched aquarium complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L. See the article for more details: Running Aquarium from A to Z.

All the manipulations in this aquarium, we carried out “live”, i.e. do not plant fish, snails, shrimps. Actually, we: removed some of the soil that was devoid of soil, removed previously planted plants, changed the background, secured mosses, and installed stones.

Thus, I would like to emphasize that the “redevelopment” of the aquarium can be safely made without a full restart of the aquarium. Such an approach allows minimizing damage to the already established biological equilibrium.

We did not wash the soil and the filter, and at the end of all the manipulations we poured back the “old water”.

At the same time, during the work, it was not possible to avoid raising a suspension – mechanical turbidity.

And the process itself naturally caused stress in the fish. In order to reduce these negative factors, in the process of work and after, we additionally put an internal filter with a synthetic filling material.

And at the end of the work was added Tetra aquasafe, which protects the mucous of fish and has sedative properties.

Filtration in the aquarium with mosses. An important issue in the arrangement of msharnika is high-quality filtering. As previously mentioned, mosses do not tolerate excess organics and mechanical turbidity.

The water in the aquarium with mosses should be perfectly clean. At the same time, excessive filtration (purging) also will not contribute to the well-being of mosses.

In this review, as in the previous one, we used external filter Tetra EX 600 Plus, which copes with its task. An important bonus of this filter is the nozzle “flute”.

Its use in the aquarium with mosses allows you to evenly distribute the flow of water and this is very important. Indeed, from a strong current, the moss “disintegrates” and does not grow.

In addition, as previously mentioned, a small internal filter with a padding material was installed, which finally removes the slightest suspension.

Lighting in the aquarium with mosses. Like any representatives of the plant world, mosses love powerful lighting. If the lighting meets the proper characteristics, the mosses look magnificent and have a rich color.

At the same time, most aquarium mosses can not be called excessively demanding lighting. And that is why even beginners can handle them. The specific parameters of the power of lighting for each aquarium are individual, the average value at which mosses feel good

0.5 watt / liter or

30-40 Lm / liter. Above the aquarium that appears in this review is set to 45 Lm / liter.

At the same time, it should be said that too much light will require more careful attention to the aquarium from the aquarist, since it can cause an algae outbreak.

Fertilizers for mosses. Mosses do not need root feeding, in fact, because they do not have a root system.

All micro and macro fertilizers they take from the water.

In our aquarium, we used not only mosses, but also stunted and delicate plants were planted: Marsilia, Eleoharis Parvula, Eleoharis Vivipara, Echinodorus rubra, Cryptocoryne Parva, Blix Japanese, Bucephalandra and Anubians Bonsai. Therefore, in the aquarium applied soil for aquarium plants Tetra Active Substrate and substrate Tetra Complete Substrate.

Liquid fertilizers were used as direct fertilizer for mosses.

Tetra PlantaPro Macro, Tetra PlantaPro Micro.

An important issue in the arrangement msharnika, is the supply of CO2. Perhaps – this is the most important fertilizer that is necessary for any plant.

In practice, it is known that many mosses are able to grow and develop without the supply of carbon dioxide. However, the proper concentration of CO2 will be favorably received by mosses. In our aquarium, we deliberately did not supply CO2 (cylinder, mash) and decided to use / test a relatively new drug in the Tetra – fertilizer line Tetra CO2 plus.

As a result, we got a good result – Msharnik fully developed. Objectively, of course, Tetra CO2 plus cannot replace the CO2 supply through a cylinder or a mash. Nevertheless, he copes with the function declared by the manufacturer.

The good news is that TetraCO2 plus is not an algaecide.

Concluding this question, it is worth saying that mosses grow rather slowly, therefore the processes of fertilizer consumption by them are “slowed down”. From this we conclude that it is important not to allow an oversupply of fertilizers in the msharnik – “less is more and more.”

The recommended parameters of water with the content of mosses water hardness KN = 1-4, gH = 5-10, pH = 6.3-6.7. However, mosses adapt well to less ideal water parameters.

In our aquarium, the following water parameters: water KN = 6, gH = 8, pH = 7.2.

A very important point in the care of Masharin, are the correct water changes. As with any herbal aquarium, it is recommended to replace the water once a week in 1 / 4-1 / 2 part.

The issue of water change is individual, after starting it is necessary to look at what the tests say and visually assess the “health of the aquarium”. In our aquarium, we did small water changes 1/4 – 1/3, but twice a week.

The current care for mosses is simple. As they grow, they are trimmed and shaped.

A good haircut makes mosses more luxuriant and branchy.

Mosses are a huge division of the plant world, which has more than 10,000 species. They can be attributed to the most ancient inhabitants of our planet, they appeared more than 300 million years ago.

Mosses are divided into three classes:

Anthocerotic mosses – characterized by lamellar thalli.

Hepatic mosses – small and gentle. The most famous moss is Riccia.

Leafy mosses – the most numerous class. It has three subclasses: Andreev, Sfagnovye, Briev.

In our aquarium we used the following types of mosses:

Triangular Moss – (Cratoneuron filicinum, Triangle Moss).

Beautiful, unpretentious moss, with long branches in the shape of an equilateral triangle. This species has long been recognized among aquarists.

It grows very well to the substrate, has an interesting triangular shape, which is why it got its name. The growth rate is average, but under good conditions, an increase in growth was observed.

Moss flame (Taxiphyllum sp. ‘Flame’, Flame moss).

Very original moss. Most moss grows in different directions, flaming moss grows in waves and only upwards, which actually resembles a flame.

From other mosses, also differs in a darker color. Unpretentious to the conditions of detention. Quietly tolerates the absence of CO2 at a pH of 7.5.

Fertilization is not necessary.
This moss is often used to form “forest landscapes”, it looks good both in the background and in the center of the composition.

Moss Phoenix – Fissidens Fountainus

(Fissidensfontanus, PhoenixMoss).

Moss Phoenix (fountain) was given this name, because it looks like a frozen fountain – it grows from the center in all directions, like a flowing fountain. With it in the aquarium, you can perfectly simulate a hummock.

Like most mosses phoenix can grow in an aquarium with a low level of illumination (up to 0.5 W / L) and practically without additional supply of CO2, micro and macro fertilizer fertilizers. The growth rate is low.

It grows well with its rhizoids to stones and coagles.

Java moss (Vesicularia dubyana).

The most common and popular moss. Absolutely unpretentious, not demanding of lighting or water parameters.

Able to grow outside the ground – on snags, stones and other surfaces, while making the unique and inimitable landscape of your indoor pond. See the article for more details. Java moss.

Christmas moss (ChristmasMoss, Vesicularia montagnei).

Christmas Moss – along with Javanese moss, one of the most common aquarium mosses. A more branched tree-like structure distinguishes it from Javan moss, which is what its name owes.

However, Christmas moss grown in poor conditions (low lighting, no CO2, micro and macro fertilizers, high dH, rare water changes) is not so ramified and it is very difficult to distinguish it from Java moss. In general, Christmas moss, like other aquarium mosses, is unpretentious.

Additionally, we used a little Queen moss / S.P. and Willow Moss, Bubble moss.

Aquarium decoration mosses

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