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Java moss in the aquarium

maintenance, care, compatibility

Java moss favorably survives at a water temperature of 22 to 30 degrees. The range of acidity and hardness can vary greatly and be different.

Bush will feel beneficial in both alkaline and acidic environments.

Carefully pick your neighbors for moss – fish should not be too aggressive, scurrying back and forth, constantly digging in the ground.

Care and regular care are also needed for already overgrown moss. From time to time, trim huge bushes, remove old branches.

The javanese is a picky plant, but it still requires cutting and limiting the growth area.

Javan in bright light looks more attractive and charming than dim. Note that in good light, the color of a Javanese becomes more saturated, bright green.

Cold water in the aquarium is prohibited as the growth of the plant will slow.

Make sure that the moss does not accumulate plaque, which can significantly impair its appearance, as well as adversely affect its condition.

If this does happen, take action: rinse it under running water.

Java moss in an aquarium is an ideal refuge for many species of fish, including shrimp. It is actively used as a substrate for spawning.

Eggs fall between javanese leaves. So Javanese moss is a real defense for them, because fish could just eat caviar on the bare bottom of the aquarium.

By its nature, Java moss is an unusual, gorgeous and special plant that its photos are worth! It is often used for decorating the aquarium.

The most effective method is breeding a lovely plant on stones or snags. To begin with, the surface is prepared in a certain way, and only then the plant should be laid out in a thin layer and securely attached to the bark with the help of a thread. Within a few weeks, the moss will grow to the surface of the snag and close the bald spots.

The snag will look fabulous and attractive due to its decorative appearance. An excellent solution would be to plant plants such as anubias and fern bolbitis.

After a certain period of Javanese moss grows heavily and even grows into each other. And then the moss – this is a first-class model of the underwater world, mysterious and unique.

As you can see, the content of Javanese moss is no different nothing complicated and incomprehensible. Of course, Javanese moss is easy enough to adapt to aquarium conditions, but he wants a small flow to prevail in the aquarium.

Especially great, he takes root on a variety of waterfalls or artificial fountains.

The javanese combines unique qualities – this is ease of breeding, unpretentiousness in care, and even charming beauty. If you follow a number of recommendations given in this article, the content of Javanese moss will become fascinating and full of joy and enthusiastic emotions for you!

What aquariums with mosses look like:

Visually, this interlacing of branching thin stems, which are literally covered with tiny light green leaves, the largest of which have a size of not more than 3 mm. These stalks do not have roots in the usual representation, and therefore moss is referred to the lower representatives of the flora.

It is attached to objects and surfaces by means of rhizoids, the thinnest strings consisting of one or several simplest cells, which can be seen only in a microscope. It is through rhizoids that Javanese moss absorbs water and with it the nutrients necessary for growth.

However, there is nothing unusual, because such a structure is inherent in almost all mosses and lichens.

At first glance, it seems that Vesicularia dubyana is growing chaotically. But actually it is not. Upon careful consideration, you can notice three levels of this aquatic vegetation:

  • the first level of stalks tightly fits the substrate,
  • the second is horizontally growing stems, giving the whole bush some semblance of small arched ceilings,
  • at the third level, the stalks with leaves grow vertically, giving the whole plant its natural splendor.

Properties and place in the aquatic system of a small artificial reservoir

Javanese moss has earned widespread use in almost any volume of aquariums due to its multifaceted properties. It can be used both for decorating the internal space and for keeping aquarium fish, in whose life it can be of great importance.

In addition, this green carpet plays a significant role in the circulation of substances inside a small body of water.

There are a lot of options for using Javanese moss as a decor. But most often it is attached to the bollards, stones, the outer surface of artificial caves and caves.

Such decor looks very impressive for several years and almost does not require separate maintenance.

Moss can also be spread out at the bottom of the tank, creating colorful green glades, and in some aquariums these glades float in the water column, constantly attracting the attention of aquarium inhabitants.

Also interesting is the attachment of moss to the tops of the vertical elements of the kryag. This decor at the bottom of the aquarium resembles trees with a lush crown.

With side illumination looks great!

For small ornamental fish, aquarium shrimps and fry, the arched interweaving of stalks and leaves of javanese moss is a reliable shelter from voracious neighbors.

Vegetation can, if necessary, play the role of a spawning substrate. Tiny eggs, falling into a layer of moss, become inaccessible for eating, and many of them persist until the appearance of young fish, and microscopic ciliates living inside the carpet are an excellent food for fry in the first days of their existence.

The principle of planting this vegetation is simple: seedlings (bush) must be attached to the surface, and it will grow to it independently over time. What can be attached?

Some aquarists use a simple thin line for this. To attach the moss to the bark, stone or other objects should be so as not to hurt the finest leaves.

After a week or two, when the rhizoids tightly join the substrate, the line can be carefully removed. Thin natural cotton threads will work too.

They can then not be removed, they will rot and gradually dissolve in water.

It’s a little harder to create vertical surfaces. If you want to make a green background on the back of the aquarium, the bushes of seedlings are in turn uniformly tied to a plastic grid, which is then installed vertically.

This method of landing will take much more time.

In the first week the young moss grows very slowly. This is understandable: the rhizoids need a certain period for the so-called rooting.

In about 1-2 weeks, the vegetation will begin to grow rapidly on the substrate.

Java moss is very popular. And the point is not that he is unassuming and does not need strict care.

The availability of plant material for the realization of their creative fantasies in aqua-design – this is what Java Moss is famous for in the communities of aquarists of all countries.

Java moss enjoys an enviable demand due to its attractive appearance and endurance. The main advantage of the plant is its relative unpretentiousness; even unskilled aquarists can keep it.

In addition to the simplicity of the content, Javanese moss in the aquarium creates an incredible landscape and becomes an ornament to the home pond.

The maintenance of javanese moss requires the aquarist to observe certain conditions. The plant can be placed both in the greenhouse and in the aquarium. In nature, Javanese moss often grows out of water onto land, growing to the log, and its surface part looks much more attractive than underwater.

The plant likes the presence of a small flow in the tank, so you need to monitor the aquarium filters, near which grows moss, often twine its branches and clog their holes.

The best temperature for keeping Javanese moss in an aquarium is 25-28 ° С, at a low temperature the plant stops growing. Water should always be clean, turbid water can contribute to the development of plaque and algae in the tank, from which Javanese moss will not only lose its attractiveness, but may also completely die.

Water hardness has a large range: from 4 to 15 °, acidity 5.7-8, moss can even live in tap or brackish water.

For the life of a plant, the brightness of the light does not matter; it needs strong illumination only during the rooting period. However, intense light can trigger an increase in green color and the growth of Javanese moss.

Java moss is often used as a decorative design of an aquarium, making it exotic.

  • For a beautiful decorative snags, put on it small pieces of moss and tie them with thread. After 1-2 months, Javanese moss grows tightly to the snag, forming an incredibly picturesque spectacle in the underwater design. The plant can hold out on the log for several years.
  • In order to decorate the back wall of the tank with moss, you must first fix a special netting of fishing line on it. The grid should be with large cells, where Javanese moss will be laid. You can add ferns or anubias to this composition.
  • To decorate the bottom of the aquarium, a mesh of fishing line is also used, which fits into two layers, between which the Javanese is laid out. To prevent the mesh from opening, its edges are stitched together with a fishing line. After a few weeks, the moss will cover the visible areas of the fishing line and form a beautiful rug.
  • Growing plants can occur on various surfaces, including coconut shell, previously scalded, or on a piece of cork.

In addition, the plant is great as a substrate for spawning a large number of aquarium fish. Eggs and fry of haracin, carp, iris, barbus, danios, guppies, swordtails and other small inhabitants of the aquarium find their shelter in the thickets of moss.

Fry also find food in it in the form of microorganisms such as infusoria. Javanese moss often fits beneath the spawner as salvation of eggs and hatched fry from their own parents.

The external attractiveness of Javanese moss in an aquarium will complement the underwater world with comfort and natural beauty. Undemanding plant will also show its useful qualities in the process of breeding small fish as the best substrate.

Aquarium mosses or all about msharnnik: design, types, photo-video review

In this chapter we will talk about the basics of the arrangement of a borer and consider the typical mistakes that beginner aquarists make.

So firstly let’s immediately cut off the “wrong questions” that newcomers to search engines ask. Namely: “How to get rid of moss in an aquarium”, “black moss in an aquarium”, “round moss for an aquarium”, “Kladofora moss”, etc. All of the above, has no relation to mosses and is called algae.

For more information about algae, see the article: Algae in the aquarium, know the enemy in the face.

Secondly, often on the Internet you can see the information that when setting up an aquarium with mosses, you do not need to use the ground. This is explained by the fact that mosses do not have roots and do not use the substrate as a power source.

All nutrients – fertilizers mosses taken directly from the water. Therefore, the presence of soil in the aquarium with mosses is useless.

Ostensibly from the soil in the aquarium is formed only suspension and dirt, which mosses do not like very much.

We can not agree with these arguments, for the following reasons.

Both the foundation for the house and the aquarium soil play a crucial role in the life of the aquarium! Novice aquarists very often pay attention only to the decorative properties of the soil and miss its most important function.

Aquarian soil is a unique biological filter, powerful and irreplaceable by nothing else.

The fact is that after the launch of the aquarium in the ground colonies of beneficial bacteria settle in, which process waste products (hereinafter – PJ) of aquatic organisms into harmless substances. I also call this process the ammonia cycle – the transition cycle of the PJ. in ammonia and then in its decay products – nitrites, nitrates.

Thus, if there is no soil in the aquarium, then all biological filtration processes will be minimized. Yes, of course, biological filtration can be carried out through the installed filter, but it is worth noting that the lion’s share of the beneficial bacteria nitrifying live in the soil, and not in the filter.

In turn, excessive concentrations of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate cause the growth of algae, which do not like mosses, because mosses simply die from them.

From the above, it can be concluded that the soil in the aquarium with mosses should be present.

Creating an aquarium with mosses, we used the previously launched aquarium complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L. See the article for more details: Running Aquarium from A to Z.

All the manipulations in this aquarium, we carried out “live”, i.e. do not plant fish, snails, shrimps. Actually, we: removed some of the soil that was devoid of soil, removed previously planted plants, changed the background, secured mosses, and installed stones.

Thus, I would like to emphasize that the “redevelopment” of the aquarium can be safely made without a full restart of the aquarium. Such an approach allows minimizing damage to the already established biological equilibrium.

We did not wash the soil and the filter, and at the end of all the manipulations we poured back the “old water”.

At the same time, during the work, it was not possible to avoid raising a suspension – mechanical turbidity.

And the process itself naturally caused stress in the fish. In order to reduce these negative factors, in the process of work and after, we additionally put an internal filter with a synthetic filling material.

And at the end of the work was added Tetra aquasafe, which protects the mucous of fish and has sedative properties.

Filtration in the aquarium with mosses. An important issue in the arrangement of msharnika is high-quality filtering.

As previously mentioned, mosses do not tolerate excess organics and mechanical turbidity. The water in the aquarium with mosses should be perfectly clean.

At the same time, excessive filtration (purging) also will not contribute to the well-being of mosses.

In this review, as in the previous one, we used external filter Tetra EX 600 Plus, which copes with its task. An important bonus of this filter is the nozzle “flute”. Its use in the aquarium with mosses allows you to evenly distribute the flow of water and this is very important.

Indeed, from a strong current, the moss “disintegrates” and does not grow.

In addition, as previously mentioned, a small internal filter with a padding material was installed, which finally removes the slightest suspension.

Lighting in the aquarium with mosses. Like any representatives of the plant world, mosses love powerful lighting. If the lighting meets the proper characteristics, the mosses look magnificent and have a rich color.

At the same time, most aquarium mosses can not be called excessively demanding lighting. And that is why even beginners can handle them. The specific parameters of the power of lighting for each aquarium are individual, the average value at which mosses feel good

0.5 watt / liter or

30-40 Lm / liter. Above the aquarium that appears in this review is set to 45 Lm / liter.

At the same time, it should be said that too much light will require more careful attention to the aquarium from the aquarist, since it can cause an algae outbreak.

Fertilizers for mosses. Mosses do not need root feeding, in fact, because they do not have a root system.

All micro and macro fertilizers they take from the water.

In our aquarium, we used not only mosses, but also stunted and delicate plants were planted: Marsilia, Eleoharis Parvula, Eleoharis Vivipara, Echinodorus rubra, Cryptocoryne Parva, Blix Japanese, Bucephalandra and Anubians Bonsai. Therefore, in the aquarium applied soil for aquarium plants Tetra Active Substrate and substrate Tetra Complete Substrate.

Liquid fertilizers were used as direct fertilizer for mosses.

Tetra PlantaPro Macro, Tetra PlantaPro Micro.

An important issue in the arrangement msharnika, is the supply of CO2. Perhaps – this is the most important fertilizer that is necessary for any plant. In practice, it is known that many mosses are able to grow and develop without the supply of carbon dioxide.

However, the proper concentration of CO2 will be favorably received by mosses. In our aquarium, we deliberately did not supply CO2 (cylinder, mash) and decided to use / test a relatively new drug in the Tetra – fertilizer line Tetra CO2 plus.

As a result, we got a good result – Msharnik fully developed. Objectively, of course, Tetra CO2 plus cannot replace the CO2 supply through a cylinder or a mash.

Nevertheless, he copes with the function declared by the manufacturer. The good news is that TetraCO2 plus is not an algaecide.

Concluding this question, it is worth saying that mosses grow rather slowly, therefore the processes of fertilizer consumption by them are “slowed down”. From this we conclude that it is important not to allow an oversupply of fertilizers in the msharnik – “less is more and more.”

The recommended parameters of water with the content of mosses water hardness KN = 1-4, gH = 5-10, pH = 6.3-6.7. However, mosses adapt well to less ideal water parameters.

In our aquarium, the following water parameters: water KN = 6, gH = 8, pH = 7.2.

A very important point in the care of Masharin, are the correct water changes. As with any herbal aquarium, it is recommended to replace the water once a week in 1 / 4-1 / 2 part.

The issue of water change is individual, after starting it is necessary to look at what the tests say and visually assess the “health of the aquarium”. In our aquarium, we did small water changes 1/4 – 1/3, but twice a week.

The current care for mosses is simple. As they grow, they are trimmed and shaped.

A good haircut makes mosses more luxuriant and branchy.

Mosses are a huge division of the plant world, which has more than 10,000 species. They can be attributed to the most ancient inhabitants of our planet, they appeared more than 300 million years ago.

Mosses are divided into three classes:

Anthocerotic mosses – characterized by lamellar thalli.

Hepatic mosses – small and gentle. The most famous moss is Riccia.

Leafy mosses – the most numerous class. It has three subclasses: Andreev, Sfagnovye, Briev.

In our aquarium we used the following types of mosses:

Triangular Moss – (Cratoneuron filicinum, Triangle Moss).

Beautiful, unpretentious moss, with long branches in the shape of an equilateral triangle. This species has long been recognized among aquarists.

It grows very well to the substrate, has an interesting triangular shape, which is why it got its name. The growth rate is average, but under good conditions, an increase in growth was observed.

Moss flame (Taxiphyllum sp. ‘Flame’, Flame moss).

Very original moss. Most moss grows in different directions, flaming moss grows in waves and only upwards, which actually resembles a flame. From other mosses, also differs in a darker color.

Unpretentious to the conditions of detention. Quietly tolerates the absence of CO2 at a pH of 7.5.

Fertilization is not necessary.
This moss is often used to form “forest landscapes”, it looks good both in the background and in the center of the composition.

Moss Phoenix – Fissidens Fountainus

(Fissidensfontanus, PhoenixMoss).

Moss Phoenix (fountain) was given this name, because it looks like a frozen fountain – it grows from the center in all directions, like a flowing fountain. With it in the aquarium, you can perfectly simulate a hummock.

Like most mosses phoenix can grow in an aquarium with a low level of illumination (up to 0.5 W / L) and practically without additional supply of CO2, micro and macro fertilizer fertilizers. The growth rate is low.

It grows well with its rhizoids to stones and coagles.

Java moss (Vesicularia dubyana).

The most common and popular moss. Absolutely unpretentious, not demanding of lighting or water parameters. Able to grow outside the ground – on snags, stones and other surfaces, while making the unique and inimitable landscape of your indoor pond.

See the article for more details. Java moss.

Christmas moss (ChristmasMoss, Vesicularia montagnei).

Christmas Moss – along with Javanese moss, one of the most common aquarium mosses. A more branched tree-like structure distinguishes it from Javan moss, which is what its name owes. However, Christmas moss grown in poor conditions (low lighting, no CO2, micro and macro fertilizers, high dH, rare water changes) is not so ramified and it is very difficult to distinguish it from Java moss.

In general, Christmas moss, like other aquarium mosses, is unpretentious.

Additionally, we used a little Queen moss / S.P. and Willow Moss, Bubble moss.

Aquarium decoration mosses

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