maintenance, care, compatibility
How to heat the water in the aquarium :: do-it-yourself aquarium heater :: Aquarium fish
For the most part, aquarium fish are tropical inhabitants. Water at room temperature is not suitable for them. The aquarium must be heated.
This can be done in several ways.
The question “opened a pet store. Business is not going. What to do? “- 2 answers
- – aquarium;
- – water thermometer;
- – thermostat;
- – incandescent lamps;
- – reflector;
- – aquarium heater.
1. The oldest means of heating water is a reflector. It can be made by yourself in the form of a tin semi-cylinder. At the end secure the cartridge with an electric incandescent lamp.
The lamp must be inside the reflector. Hang the unit to the end of the aquarium so that the upper edge of the reflector is below the water level.
This is necessary so that the glass heats evenly and does not burst. This method is suitable both for heating and for lighting small rectangular aquariums with a capacity of not more than 30 liters.
2. Immerse the bulb directly in water aquarium. At the same time, attach the cartridge to the cover in a special hole so that only the bottle is in the water. Water should not touch the cartridge.
The efficiency of such a system is much higher than that of a reflector. The power of this heater is equal to the power of the lamp.
But with this method, the flask is overgrown with algae.
3. The most advanced method is heating with a special heater. You can buy it at the pet store.
This heater is a long tube in which an electrical coil is placed. The test tube is filled with fine dry quartz sand. Hermetically closed helix pins are located in its upper part.
In the network of such a heater is turned on with a cord.
4. Heaters can be different in height and power. Choose such that when immersed in an aquarium, the upper part with the leads of the wires is above the water level by at least 2 cm.
In this case, the lower end should not rest against the bottom. To maintain the required temperature, a ratio of 10 liters to 10 watts can be kept.
5. Secure the heater in aquarium using rubber suction cups and plastic rings. If you can not find them, you can use metal wire as an attachment.
This mount should be above the water level.
6. Simultaneously with the heater, use the thermostat. They are also sold at pet stores.
Control the temperature of the water in the aquarium by the thermometer immersed in it.
7. For even heating of the aquarium, ensure the circulation of water – install a filter. You can arrange aeration with a compressor.
The main disadvantage of heating with a reflector is that the device has to be turned off at night, and the water temperature drops to room temperature. The second drawback can be considered the increased overgrowth of the lower algae glass, located on the side of the reflector.
In addition, this device has a rather low efficiency.
There are salt heaters. As a rule, they are homemade.
Do not use them. Salt in the water for some fish and plants can be fatal.
Thermostat for aquarium and everything you need to know about it.
First you need to choose the power of the device, which is necessary for the aquarium and depends on the amount of water in it. Standardly it is considered that for warming up 4.5 liters of water there is enough power of 10 Watts.
For a large aquarium, instead of one powerful device, it is better to buy a few weak ones – this way the water will heat up more evenly.
There are submersible or groundwater heaters. To install and operate the thermostat for an aquarium, you must strictly follow the instructions in order to prevent damage to the device or its failure.
The submersible thermostat for aquarium is waterproof, it can be installed both vertically and horizontally. The water level in the tank should always be above the minimum diving line, which is marked on the hull. The heater is attached to the wall of the aquarium with brackets with suction cups.
You need to install it in a place in the aquarium, in which there is a constant circulation of water. Do not install the immersion thermostat in the ground. The maximum depth is usually within 1 meter.
It is possible to turn on the thermostat into the electrical network 15 minutes after it has been installed.
There is another kind of thermostat – ground heater (heat cable). It is located at the bottom of the aquarium and is masked by plants and decorations.
The thermocable will provide uniform heating of water, because warm water circulates and rises to the surface.
It is forbidden to turn on the heater taken out of the aquarium, as well as to lower the hand into the water when the device is turned on.
Heaters are necessary equipment for the aquarium during the cold season. By maintaining the temperature level in the aquarium, optimal comfortable conditions will be created for its inhabitants.
What power to choose the thermostat.
In the general case, the thermostat can be calculated here: the calculation of the thermostat’s power
But, there is one BUT. Chinese products, non-Chinese products and even branded products are prone to sticking.
A situation where, regardless of the temperature setting, the thermostat works on heating all the time, i.e. becomes a heater of a certain power.
What happens as a result of sticking. If we do not look at the thermometer every day or put our hands in the water, if it is warm in the apartment, if the wattage was selected by the calculator based on the lower threshold, the temperature in the room, and now we have heat – in the aggregate of this situation, we can easily get ear.
In addition, it was previously accepted, and even now this trend wanders around the network, proceeding from the power of 1 watt per 1 liter. This is also wrong, as is 1 cm of fish per 1 liter. But unfortunately, even eminent brands do not disdain to write wild use ranges on their boxes.
And we, having a standard of 23 degrees in the apartment and wanting to raise it to 25, we buy a 150-liter thermostat 150-watt thermostat.
This is a great evil. Because when sticking such a hot-water bottle, we can get ear.
Of course, much depends on the flow, surface ventilation, etc., but the fish will easily fall at 35 degrees. And it is quite possible to get.
How to be. Let me explain with a simple example.
We have 150 liters, we need to get in it 30 degrees (for example). The standard temperature in the room is, for example, 25, but during periods when the dwellers blow the brain, it drops to 21, and in summer it rises to 28-30.
We enter into the calculator border zones, 21 at least the temperature in the room and 30 as the desired maximum in the aquarium. By calculator, we get the value of 116 watts.
How to be?
The correct solution in this case is to put 2 heaters of 50 watts each. When sticking one with your fish, nothing happens, and the probability of sticking 2x at the same time reduced to zero.
What I want to mention. If you are at home all the time, constantly look at the thermometer and easily notice the unusual behavior of the fish, then perhaps you do not need this instruction, but as they say it is better to perezdzhet
Well, if you do not care for fish, you can also not pay attention to everything written)
Another important digression is mini aquariums. They scheme with 2 heaters not a ride. Why?
Because the minimum power of heaters in 99% of manufacturers is 25 watts. Putting 25 watts, for example, in 10 liters is IMHO.
How to be here? The easiest option is not to put a heating pad, if temperature conditions and hydrobionts allow.
Most hydrobionts live in a wide range of temperatures and its slow displacement within the framework is not a problem.
The second option, it will cost you much more expensive than your aquarium, this is the connection of the heater through an additional temperature relay. In fact, you get a circuit protected by 2 relays, built-in thermostat and remote. In this case, the probability of soup again is 0.
Of course, many will say, “what for me is all this reassurance.” Of course, this is some reinsurance, but if you have expensive aquatic organisms in the aquarium or they are just expensive for you, then given that the quality of aquarium products is steadily declining in order to reduce production costs, this scheme still makes sense.
- Twin heaters with thermostat. As a rule, the design of such a device is quite simple: a heater in the form of a spiral is enclosed in a single glass flask with a bimetallic thermostat. These two devices are already connected to the same circuit, so the aquarist does not need to connect anything, just plug in the socket. This device must be fixed strictly in an upright position, otherwise the thermostat will turn off prematurely.
Purchased thermostats are very massive. They are designed for the maintenance of volumetric aquariums with capricious living creatures.
For beginner aquarists who breed small fish in small tanks, they are not suitable. Yes, and the costs will be unjustified (purchased water heating equipment is expensive). Therefore, the thermostat for aquarium do it yourself:
- Cheap (assembled from handy materials);
- Practical (suitable for small aquariums and spawners);
- Effectively (self-made device works no worse than the industrially created).
The only thing you have to spend is time.