In the cold season, all aquarium fish, with the exception of cold-blooded, need heating. Heating equipment – it is vital equipment for our fish, without which there would be no life in an aquarium.
In kit heating equipment Includes: a heater that raises the temperature of the water; thermostat on / off depending on water temperature heater; thermometer. You can purchase such equipment both individually and in sets. In the latter case, the thermostat and heater are enclosed in a single housing, which is more convenient.
If for connecting autonomous devices it is necessary to connect them to start with each other, then for a paired device it is enough to plug the plug into the socket. However, if the heater fails, replacing it in such an instrument will be more expensive. United appliances in small aquariums are not applicable.
This is due to the size of the device: autonomous heaters are small in size and take up little space. Heaters are available in various capacities and more reasonably necessary to maintain the temperature of the water in the aquarium to distribute the power to several sets of heating equipment connected in series.
In case of failure of one heater, the aquarium will not remain without heating, and when the thermostat fails and, for example, the heater is turned on at the wrong time, the water in the aquarium will not overheat because the second thermostat is not turned on. The total power of the heaters should be sufficient to maintain the required water temperature at the minimum air temperature in the room, for example, in a room without heating in the winter cold night. Approximate power is calculated based on the ratio: 1 watt power per 1 liter of the volume of the aquarium.
Since there are no hard criteria for each specific case, it is better to consult with the seller when purchasing equipment. Also help to orient the recommendations of the manufacturer, usually indicated on the packaging in the form of drawings and diagrams.
The temperature at all levels of water in the aquarium should have almost the same indicators so as not to harm the fish and aquarium plants. Measure the temperature at the surface and soil.
The temperature difference (allowable difference of 2 ° C) is equalized by mixing (circulation) of water by filtration or aeration.
Temperature range aquarium thermostat often limited and appropriate for tropical fish. The working temperature of the heater is set by turning the screw or nimbus. On some models of thermostats applied temperature scale, the accuracy of which may be different.
If there is no such scale, then the act comes through empirically. Most thermostats, including those combined with a heater, are equipped with a light indicator that signals the power supply to the heater.
But there are also constantly lit indicators that indicate that the device is connected to the mains, regardless of whether the heater is operating at a given time or not. Basically on sale there are two types of thermostats: electromechanical and electronic. Separate submersible electromechanical thermostats once used to be very popular and, although they are not so widespread now, they are still being manufactured.
The actuating device in the device combining the heater and the thermostat is a bimetallic plate. There are also outdoor thermostats of this type – the temperature in the aquarium comes through contact with the glass. Electronic thermostats are more reliable, accurate and durable.
However, a small part of these devices from the very beginning can be “capricious” and in a couple of days to break. Therefore, they are pre-installed in a “lifeless” aquarium and test performance.
Temperature controllers of this type have a temperature probe, which is placed in water, and installed in most cases outside aquarium. On the one hand, such a setting provides accessibility when setting up, on the other hand, this setting, if accidentally hooked, can be brought down with ease.
The following types are available. aquarium heatersOn Spiral heater It is a wire wound onto a ceramic core, encased in a sealed glass stopper with a rubber stopper. Electrical wire coming out of the plug. The heater is easy to move, while not disturbing the population of the aquarium. – Heating matsor rugs enclosed under the aquarium.
Aquarium heated through the bottom. According to some aquarists, warming the soil has a positive effect on plants, since in nature there is no such luxury as warming up the roots of plants.
But the main disadvantage of heating mats is that it is impossible to remove the heater without removing the aquarium. But their service life is much longer than spiral heaters. – Heating cables similar to the cables used for heating in greenhouses.
These cables are laid in the soil of the aquarium. They are also useful for plants, as are heating mats. It is easier to remove the cable than the mat, but the interior of the aquarium is very much disturbed.
In addition, heavy objects of decoration, for example, large stones, can damage the heating cable.
Heater, paired with a thermostat: These devices usually consist of a spiral heater and a bimetallic thermostat, which are enclosed in a single flask of glass. As you know, warm layers rise up, displacing the cold.
Therefore, it is not necessary to place such devices vertically, otherwise the thermostat will turn off prematurely. The best would be an inclined or horizontal position. It should be noted that the horizontal position is allowed only completely sealed heaters.
You can find out about the immersion device or not from the instruction manual or the information on the package. Outdoor electronic thermostats are sometimes supplied only complete with a heater immersed in an aquarium.
Therefore, these devices can also relate to combined instruments.
Heat filter It is a filter in which a temperature controller and heater are built in, which heats the water passing through the filter. At first glance, combining the devices on which life in an aquarium depends is very convenient. But such a device is expensive – this time; and secondly, the difficulties encountered with the flow of water will lead to an unacceptable decrease in water temperature in the aquarium.
In addition, the dependence of the entire system “life support” from one fuse and the appliance is not valid.
Fasteners and protective covers for heaters
In most cases, plastic suckers that do not want to stay in place serve to fix the heaters in the aquarium. Over time, these suckers crack. Therefore, experienced aquarists, before filling the aquarium with water, attach the suction cups to the glass using silicone sealant.
But this method of fixation will not allow in the future to change the location of the heater. Therefore, it is better to use silicone suction cups, whose service life is calculated for years.
The protective cover is designed to prevent damage to the glass bulb of the heater, contact of the heater body with the aquarium material (acrylic or glass), as well as protect the fish from burns. The casing, equipped with suction cups, simultaneously performs the role of fastening.
Currently, any aquarium equipment can be purchased at online stores. A large assortment of modern online stores allows you to equip any aquarium from a small otsadnik to a large reef aquarium.