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Crayfish aquarium

maintenance, care, compatibility

At once we will say that this neighborhood often brings only problems. There are, of course, cases when crayfish coexist well with fish.

But even more situations where one or the other side suffers as a result of such a tandem. For example:

  1. Soma are arthropods’ competitors for food and shelter. Collisions on this ground are inevitable.
  2. Small fish like neons, guppies, etc. can be crayfish elementary eaten.
  3. Large fish with long tails and fins (gold, angelfish, etc.) can lose their wealth.
  4. In the vicinity of large, but aggressive fish like cichlids, crayfish are doomed to hunger and stress, and ultimately to death.

Thus, if you are not ready to take risks and experiment, keep the crayfish apart.

From the place of purchase to the place of residence of arthropods transported in a black opaque package. Adaptation is fast.

It should be borne in mind that the temperature difference in the package and in an artificial reservoir should not be more than three degrees. The following conditions are considered optimal for cancers:

Aquarium. The minimum volume of the tank must be at least 15 liters per 6 cm specimen.

However, given that close housing provokes crayfish to aggression, it is better to take a vessel as spacious as possible. From above, it is imperative to install a cover with small holes, as in case of overpopulation, the crayfish will be trying to get out of the aquarium when overcrowded, the water is dirty or oxygen-poor.

If possible, the best option is to equip the aquaterrarium.

Water must be clean, rich in oxygen, with a temperature in the range of 17-21 degrees and a hardness of 8-12. To increase the stiffness in the ground, you can put marble or limestone.

It is better to install an internal filter in order to stop attempts to escape by wires. Cancers love to hide the remnants of food, which then rot and spoil the water.

In this connection, regular replacement of 50% of water is necessary.

Priming better to choose large. Crayfish dig holes, and not a single plant will take root in the shallow soil.

Vegetation. Algae is better to pick up with strong roots, large leaves and strong stems.

Before planting, they should be held in quarantine.

Registration. Various stones, snags, hoses, halves of ceramic flower pots, grottoes, etc. can be used as decorations. From them crayfish build shelters for themselves and climb them to the surface of the water.

It is better to do this in the evening hours, as the daytime crayfish hide. If arthropods coexist with fish, in the latter by the evening the activity decreases, and they will not drag feed from claw carriers from under the nose.

Despite the fact that aquarium arthropods are omnivorous, there are some nutritional recommendations for them. Over eighty percent of the daily ration of crayfish should be plant food.

You can give elodey, nettle, water lily, rdest, algae, carrots, zucchini, spinach, parsley. For a variety of give various mollusks, insects, worms, tadpoles, frozen bloodworms, feed for bottom fish.

As a delicacy, you can sometimes treat fish to pieces or lean meat. Meat can be raw, boiled or in the form of stuffing own twist without store additives. Interestingly, crayfish prefer it in a slightly rotten condition.

Protein food is given no more than once a week, since it has been observed that it increases aggressiveness.

Special feeds for crayfish and shrimp are also available, which can also be used (for example, such brands as Dennerle, Tetra, MOSURA, Genchem Biomax series). They strengthen the immune system, maintain the brightness of pet coloring.

There are granules, plates, sticks.

As for the frequency of meals, there is no unity of views. In some sources, it is recommended to feed females once every three days, males – once every two days. Others advise for both sexes meals once a day.

Therefore, here you can see for yourself the behavior of your pets and by trial and error will select your ideal schedule. During molting or crayfish breeding, the number of meals increases. Young individuals readily take ready food for fry, artemia, shredded tubule.

In addition, they still eat organic decay products, thus cleaning the aquarium. To improve digestion and prevention of parasites, dried leaves of oak, alder and beech are given.

The mating period in adults begins after the completion of molting. In females at this time there is a selection of pheromones, which attract the opposite sex, and the males go in search.

It is very interesting to observe how the formed couple dances, sometimes for several hours, touching each other with their antennae. After that, the female is recommended to be planted in a separate container, where after 20 days she will lay eggs.

Relocation is necessary, as heightened anxiety and anxiety make her protect her offspring and show aggression towards everything around her. The eggs are attached by a sticky mass under the belly, and the female moves with them.

Offspring fearfully and for a long time prefer to hold on to the torso of the mother. Eating crustaceans themselves begin only after the first molt. Shelters for young stock is a prerequisite to survive, hiding from offenders (including adult crayfish).

After the second molt, the offspring gains sufficient autonomy, and the female is again resettled.

There are many, but here we consider only the most common.

This disease is very common in aquarium arthropods. The reason is the poor conditions in the aquarium.

The simplest microorganisms settle on chitinous integuments, as a result of which the cancer looks covered with brown or grayish-white foam. If this plaque spreads to the gills, then the animal will not be able to breathe and will die. For recovery, it is necessary to put in order the water and the number of inhabitants in the aquarium.

At the time of illness, the animal is quarantined.

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