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Brown algae in the aquarium how to fight

maintenance, care, compatibility

If you notice brown mucus on the walls of the aquarium, it is time to sound the alarm – a harmful alga started up in your pond. It leaves its marks on the bottom and on the leaves of aquatic plants.

If we do not fight with the brown alga, it will very quickly clog the reservoir, worsening the habitat for fish.

Brown algae are microscopic living organisms that can exist both unicellularly and take the form of colonies. They refer to diatoms, which means “divided in half.”

Such is their structure: 2 halves of a single whole – epitek (upper) and hypotec (lower). All this is exposed in a single solid shell.

Through its porous walls and metabolism occurs brown algae.

Like any simplest, kelp reproduces by division. When you divide the daughter cell gets a piece of the mother shell.

And these halves of the shell are able to recreate themselves, putting on both the “mother” and the “daughter” in the new armor.

Since the shells are silica impregnated, they are not able to increase in size. Because of this, each next generation of diatoms smaller than their ancestors.

But they also manage to leave brown raids on any surface of the aquarium.

There are among these algae and individuals, which are collected in tubular colonies, having the form of brown bushes. They grow very quickly, sometimes reaching a height of 20 centimeters.

But to a greater degree they look like flat formations, which we perceive as a raid.

Brown algae prefer shaded corners of ponds with an abundance of organic matter. It just stimulates them to active development.

Filling the entire aquarium, this alga deprives other inhabitants of the right to a normal existence.

If the reservoir is new, then the appearance of brown blotches on the walls of the aquarium or the surface of the water in a couple of weeks is considered normal. The reason is still uninhabited habitat – a fairly high content of carbon and organic matter in the water.

Apparently, there are still a small number of fish and green vegetation in the pond, which would absorb all this abundance.

But if the “brown junta” began to seize the space of the old aquarium, then here one should think about where the regime was violated.

  • Perhaps the aquarium is not sufficiently lit – the drillers love penumbra very much.
  • Increased iodine content is also a cause of the occurrence of brown algae.
  • Brown algae are also fed from silicates contained in the reservoir. The source can be substrates containing silicon, or sand at the bottom of the reservoir.

But whichever of the causes affecting the appearance of the brown alga is not, the fight against it must begin immediately, as soon as the first signs of the problem are noticed.

To the inhabitants of your home pond feel quite comfortable, get rid of the brown algae by all available means. Do not allow these “amoebas” to multiply in your aquarium.

  • In a young aquarium, it will be enough to do mechanical work, removing all plaque from surfaces. To do this, you can purchase a special scraper or take a conventional blade.
  • With leaves of aquatic plants, brown raids will have to be cleaned with just hands. In no case do not use foam or spongy material to remove algae. And do the cleaning carefully, so as not to damage the plants.
  • Do not forget about accumulated dirt at the bottom of the reservoir – it is better to remove it with the help of hoses intended for this purpose.
  • Remove pebbles, shells and pebbles from the aquarium (when changing water) and rinse them well. Do the same with decorative elements (artificial locks, decorative snags, etc.).
  • It should also be rinsed under running water and filter, as well as compressor hoses.
  • Get “biological weapons” in the aquarium – fish that feed on brown algae: girinoheylus, catfish antsistrus, Siamese algae, etc. Mollusks (neurite olive snail, horned snail) are also good cleaners.

But various chemicals to combat the brown “evil spirits” should not be used – harm other inhabitants of the reservoir. But you can use some antibiotics (for example, penicillin).

And be sure to put the aquarium as close as possible to the light.

In order to no longer have to deal with such a scourge as brown algae, follow the elementary rules for the care of domestic water bodies.

  • First of all, ensure sufficient illumination of every corner in the aquarium. If daylight is too short, use additional lighting. It is better to use lamps that give red spectral light.
  • Always keep the temperature in the pond at the optimum level (+ 22-280С) – kelp like exactly the opposite, cooler.
  • Regularly change the water in the aquarium, follow its technical indicators (pH, iodine, nitrates, phosphates, silicates). Never use water immediately from the tap – you need only purified.
  • Install in the pond filter, capable of absorbing silicates
  • Plant aquarium with a large number of aquatic plants – they will “take away” some of the food from the brown algae, thereby slowing down its growth.
  • Experienced aquarists recommend putting zinc and copper products on the bottom of a pond. These metals are able to destroy the brown alga.

Each time, conducting a replacement of water or cleaning the aquarium from the brown alga, provide residents of the reservoir with twenty-four-hour lighting for several days.

How to get rid of kelp:

Algae – this is not all that grows in the water. So called lower, primitive photosynthetic organisms, often consisting of a single cell or several cells collected in colonies or filaments.

They live everywhere in the aquatic environment. They are distinguished from higher plants by the absence of developed organs: stems, leaves, flowers, and also the fact that throughout their history they lived exclusively in water, while the plants were formed on land, and only after that some of them returned to the water .

Higher flowering plants (as well as several species of moss and ferns) are planted to decorate and revitalize the aquarium, while algae, with the exception of a single species of decorative importance, enter the aquarium without our participation and reproduce in it just when the balance is knocked down and balance is broken. They form a suspension in the water, causing its turbidity or discoloration, or stick around all the surfaces in the form of fluff, bundles and balls of yarn, plaque, mucus and the like.

It is clear that their presence does not contribute to the beauty of the aquarium.

Diatoms are unicellular organisms that have a silicon shell in the form of a box, many of which are capable of movement. The significance of diatoms in natural marine ecosystems is simply colossal, since they constitute a significant proportion of plankton and form a huge part of the organic matter of the earth (about a quarter), and their shells after dying are the basis of sedimentary rocks.

But in artificial reservoirs they, like their counterparts from other departments of lower plants, are unwanted guests. Brownish or brown algae in an aquarium, forming a slimy coating, especially in poorly lit places, often near the bottom – these are, as a rule, diatoms. (By the word “brown” – we mean only color, not systematic belonging, since Brown Alga proper is a separate department of highly developed marine organisms with large bodies, thallus).

Their reproduction contributes to a pH above 7.5, high water hardness and a high concentration of nitrogen compounds. An outbreak of diatoms can cause an excess of sodium in water, which occurs, for example, after treating fish in a common aquarium by adding salt.

When describing the algae divisions, we intentionally described in such detail what conditions the representatives of each of them need in order to breed in an aquarium to a significant amount (there are always a small number of these organisms in the aquarium, but they do not spoil the beauty and do not interfere with other inhabitants). Obviously, in order to cope with the invasion of crimsons, diatoms, or their brethren, these conditions in the aquarium must be changed.

And the most important thing is to plant a large number of living higher plants and create conditions under which they can successfully compete with algae and thereby control their numbers. The following steps will help change the balance of power in favor of the plants.

This article focuses on the Tetra group of drugs, which are aimed at algae control.

For us, consumers, two things are important when choosing one or another tool:

– how effective the drug is;

– what side properties the drug has;

And here we are faced with a problem!

In the sale of funds from algae a lot, but their compositions are often classified by producers – a trade secret. However, there are landmarks that manufacturers indicate in the annotations to the drugs.

First, manufacturers indicate the extent of the drug’s effects on algae:

– long-term control agent

– agent for the prevention and mild reduction of algae.

Secondly, manufacturers always write what means it is: chemical or biological.

From the above, you can deduce certain guidelines for yourself and buy / apply one or another preparation based on the situation that has developed in your aquarium.

If in your tank, for one reason or another, everything, everything, everything is terribly overgrown with algae: green bloom, black threads (black beard), green threads (thread), etc. You need to use a potent tool!

If you just tortured algae, but you keep control over them, you need a means of a long, but more gentle action. Well, if in the aquarium there are just some small problems with algae and you want to nullify them – you need a mild prophylactic.

You also need to consider the side properties of the drugs that the manufacturer indicates in the instructions!

Tetra Award – The Brand of the Century, which the company received in 2013,

for a huge contribution to the development of the German economy.

Let’s look at the Tetra product line, specially designed for the prevention and control of algae in an aquarium:

For quick response and prevention

– Improved formula (60% higher concentration of active ingredient compared to TetraAlguMin).

– Effectively fights all types of algae and prevents the growth of new ones.

– Active ingredient is released immediately, quick action

– The optimal distribution of the active substance due to the liquid form.

– New: does not stain water.

– Do not expose to sunlight.

– Activated carbon filtration reduces efficiency.

– It is advisable to manually remove dead algae.

– When used properly, the drug is harmless to fish, plants and microorganisms.

For freshwater aquariums.

Volume: 100, 250, 500 ml.

Active ingredient per 100 ml: monolinuron 0.245 g.

Dosage for prophylaxis: 5 ml per 20 l of aquarium water every 4 weeks

Dosage to fight: 5 ml per 10 liters of aquarium water. If necessary, repeat the treatment after 3-4 weeks.

Store in a cool dark place.

Shake before use.

Go to the article about TetraAlguMin Plus.

Gently fights and prevents the appearance of all types of algae

– Improved formula (accelerated release of the active substance).

– Gently struggling with algae.

– With dispenser for convenient use.

– Especially suitable for use in small aquariums due to the optimal dosage of the active substance.

– With a dispenser for simple long-term use against green, brown and red algae.

– To prevent algae growth, replace tablets every 4 weeks.

– The tablets retain their shape, do not dissolve in water.

– When used properly, the drug does not damage the plants, does not cause damage. beneficial microflora and does not cause side effects.

– The effect of the use of the drug is noticeable after 4 – 7 days.

For freshwater aquariums.

Volume: 12 tablets per 120 liters of aquarium water.

Active ingredient per 100 g: monolinuron 0.59 g

Dosage: 1 tablet per 10 liters of aquarium water every 4 weeks.

Note: Activated carbon filtration reduces the effectiveness of the product. All UV cleaners must be turned off during the application process.

When using anti-algal agents, aeration is necessary to ensure sufficient oxygen. It is advisable to manually remove dead algae using a net or during water changes, as they adversely affect water quality.

Go to the article about Tetra Algetten.

Effectively fights with all types of algae and prevents the growth of new ones.

– Continuously fights with all types of algae.

– Long-term action prevents the growth of new algae.

– Fights and prevents the appearance of green, brown and red algae.

– Effectively destroys the “black beard” and blue-green algae, and also prevents their further growth.

– The highly concentrated long acting active ingredient is released slowly and evenly.

– After 4 weeks, the active substance is completely released.

– To prevent algae growth in the long term, replace tablets every 4 weeks.

– The tablets retain their shape, do not dissolve in water.

– Suitable for all aquatic inhabitants, plants and microorganisms subject to strict adherence to instructions.

For all freshwater aquariums.

Volume: 12 tablets per 480 liters of aquarium water.

Active ingredient per 100 g: monolinuron 2.27 g

Dosage for prophylaxis: 1 tablet per 40 liters of aquarium water every 4 weeks

Dosage to fight: 1 tablet per 20 liters of aquarium water. Repeat if necessary after 4 weeks.

Application: Take the tablets directly to the aquarium in a place with intensive circulation of water for optimal distribution of the active substance.

Note: Activated carbon filtration reduces the effectiveness of the product. All UV cleaners must be turned off during the application process.

When using anti-algal agents, aeration is necessary to ensure sufficient oxygen. It is advisable to manually remove dead algae using a net or during water changes, as they adversely affect water quality.

Go to the article about Tetra AlgoStop depot.

Quickly fights hard-to-remove algae

– Highly concentrated instant agent for maximum effect, struggling with all types of algae, due to the high concentration of the active substance.

– Quick help with serious algae problems.

– It acts against green, brown and red algae.

– Struggles with stubborn algae, for example, with a black beard and thread.

– Tablets dissolve quickly, immediately releasing the active substance, without staining the water.

– Reaches the maximum effect, thanks to high concentration of active ingredient.

– Suitable for all aquatic inhabitants, plants and microorganisms subject to strict adherence to instructions.

For freshwater aquariums

Volume: 10 tablets per 200 liters of aquarium water

Active ingredient per 100 g: Monolinuron 1.95 g

Application: Take the tablets directly to the aquarium in a place with intensive circulation of water for optimal distribution of the active substance.

Note: Activated carbon filtration reduces the effectiveness of the product. All UV cleaners must be turned off during the application process.

When using anti-algal agents, aeration is necessary to ensure sufficient oxygen. It is advisable to manually remove dead algae using a net or during water changes, as they adversely affect water quality.

Go to the article about Tetra Algizit.

We offer to visit the official website of the company Tetra – http://www.tetra.net/ru/ru/, where you can find out more information, as well as get expert advice, through the feedback forum.

The German Science Union in 2015 highly appreciated Tetra’s research and development work, and was honored with a prize in the Innovations Thanks to Research nomination.

In the conclusion of the review it should be noted that any preparations and means of algae control are not a panacea: I threw the preparation and forgot about the problem!

No one has yet canceled the proper care of the aquarium, high-quality lighting, timely water changes, testing, as well as aeration and filtration of the aquarium.

Table: The rate of action of drugs against algae

Characteristics of Tetra preparations for the prevention and control of algae:

Filamentous algae in an aquarium how to fight-photo description video.

Causes of filamentous algae in the aquarium

Filamentous algae multiply rapidly enough in the aquarium and begin to occupy almost the entire area under the following conditions:

• Bright light. Thread often appears in those aquariums that are exposed to direct sunlight during the day or artificial lighting is used for more than 8 hours per day.

• Insufficient oxygen supply.

• A small number of aquarium plants. The surplus of trace elements coming with fertilizer, with a small number of plants, has a positive effect on the rapid growth of the yarn.

• Irregular replacement of water in the aquarium and its poor cleaning leads to the accumulation of nitrates, which are especially needed for the growth of nitrate.

Often the filament appears at the very beginning of breeding aquarium fish and this is due to the fact that higher plants have not yet had time to settle down, which means there is an excess of trace elements necessary for the growth of protozoa. Sometimes filamentous algae can be brought into the house and together with the plants acquired in pet stores.

Methods of struggle

Filamentous algae will surely appear in the pond if there is an excess content of water-soluble nitrogen and phosphorus compounds. Therefore, first of all you need to pay attention to the operation of the filter and lighting.

The blue light that favors the growth of the thread should be eliminated and replaced with a soft one.

The accumulation of ammonia compounds occurs both when the filter is clogged and when there are too many fish with an insufficient number of plants. Floating plants and such that grow rapidly (hygrophilic, vallisneria) inhibit filamentous algae, taking away their food. Of great importance is the concentration of iron in the aquarium.

It should not exceed the permissible dose of 0.2 mg / l.

Removing the algae from the aquarium with your hands, for example when settling in Spirogira, is almost the only method of control. It is very important to clean the plants from the floss and wash them, and take CO2 to the aquarium only during the daytime.

For all cleaning activities, many recommend to darken the aquarium for three days.

In some cases, the use of algaecides, such as, for example, Sidex, containing glutaraldehyde, is very effective. Hydrogen peroxide in an amount of from 6 to 10 mg / l and the filament are also incompatible.

Do not neglect the biological methods of destruction of algae parasites. Who eats yarn, so it is catfish, gastromysones, viviparous small fish, pesilias and mollies, as well as karzuby, jordanelles, Siamese epalceorinhoses.

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