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Aquarium Water Heater

maintenance, care, compatibility

HEATER FOR AQUARIUM AND EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT IT.

Heaters are made in accordance with current safety standards. It is allowed to turn on the heater only into the electrical network with parameters corresponding to those indicated on the heater itself and its packaging.

Do not turn on the heater taken out of the water. Before each operation associated with the heater, it is MANDATORY to turn OFF the voltage.

Before you put your hand in the water, make sure that the heater and all electrical appliances in the aquarium are disconnected from the mains. Do not use a damaged heater or a heater with a damaged wire.

The connecting wire can not be changed and repaired, in this case the entire heater should be replaced. Also DO NOT MOUNT SWITCH ON WIRING.
The water level must always be higher than the minimum immersion level, the MINIMUM WATER LEVEL mark applied to the body of the heater. The maximum immersion depth of the heater is 80 cm.

The heater is intended for use only in enclosed spaces and exclusively in aquariums.

The heater is waterproof, and it can be installed in an aquarium both in a vertical position – with an adjustment knob above the water mirror, and in a horizontal position – fully submerged. Do not insert heater in sand and gravel. The water level must always be higher than the minimum immersion level, the MINIMUM WATER LEVEL mark applied to the body of the heater.

It is necessary to remember about the constant decrease in the water level as a result of evaporation. The heater is attached to the wall of the aquarium with a bracket with two suction cups, which should be mounted on the heater directly under the head. The heater should be fixed in the aquarium in a place where the water is provided with a constant and uniform circulation of water.

ATTENTION! Only about 15 minutes after installing the heater in the aquarium, when the temperature of the bimetallic switch in the heater becomes equal to the temperature of the water in the aquarium, can the heater be connected to the power supply network.

Aquarium volume, lThe difference between the temperatures of the water in the aquarium and in the room, ° C
2four6eightten121520
20five12172229345980
4091826364655100125
60122335475970128140
80142943567085144170
100173349668299150200
15020436586108127200250
200265278104130156210300
250thirty6091121150182270360
4004282124169208247390500

The main disadvantages of using a heater are with the need to constantly monitor his work. Even reaching the desired indicator of water temperature, the device still continues to function and it must be disconnected from the network manually.

To get rid of this problem, a special device is used – the thermostat, which is a device with a built-in temperature sensor. It allows you to turn off the heating element when it reaches the set point and turn it on again when the water starts to cool.

Thus, a stable microclimate is achieved without temperature drops. The use of modern technology allows the manufacture of very compact and easy-to-use thermostats.

According to manufacturing technology, they are divided into two types.

Electronic. They have high accuracy (most of them are equipped with information boards).

Among the shortcomings can be called the relative high cost and lack of reliability.

Mechanical. There are most often, are stable and reliable in operation, cheaper price.

They often distort the actual performance by several degrees, so you need to use a separate thermometer to fine tune the device.

The level of safety in operation and durability of the device thermostats are divided into:

  • Remote – are outside the aquarium, not affected by the aquatic environment and the products of vital activity of aquatic organisms. This increases their service life and provides an opportunity to use cheaper heaters, to replace them without additional costs. To determine the mode of operation, a separate temperature sensor is used, which is located in the aquarium and is connected by wire to a thermostat.
  • Built-in – mounted in a sealed enclosure with a heating element. With this configuration, the entire system of control and heating of water becomes very compact and easy to use.

Spiral-heater-for aquarium

The latter type of design is most popular among aquarists and is often made in the form of an elongated glass bulb, inside of which there is an electric heater and a thermostat. For greater thermal conductivity, the space of the flask is filled with the smallest ceramic filler.

The tightness of the design provides a rubberized or plastic cap through which the power wire passes. Here is a regulator that allows you to set the desired temperature.

Well-known brands of aquarium equipment – Eheim, Fluval, Ferplast, Aquael, Tetra – produce reliable and high-quality immersion heaters for an aquarium with a thermostat of 25 to 300 watts. Such devices are able to provide the necessary conditions in aquariums up to 1500 liters.

To reduce the likelihood of overheating of water, there is a practice with the simultaneous use of several less powerful thermal devices.

In the case when it is not possible to purchase the necessary equipment, it can be done on your own.

READ ALSO MELLINESIA

The main disadvantages when using a heater are associated with the need to constantly monitor its operation. Even reaching the desired indicator of water temperature, the device still continues to function and it must be disconnected from the network manually.

To get rid of this problem, a special device is used – the thermostat, which is a device with a built-in temperature sensor. It allows you to turn off the heating element when it reaches the set point and turn it on again when the water starts to cool.

Thus, a stable microclimate is achieved without temperature drops. The use of modern technology allows the manufacture of very compact and easy-to-use thermostats.

According to manufacturing technology, they are divided into two types.

Electronic. They have high accuracy (most of them are equipped with information boards).

Among the shortcomings can be called the relative high cost and lack of reliability.

Mechanical. There are most often, are stable and reliable in operation, cheaper price.

They often distort the actual performance by several degrees, so you need to use a separate thermometer to fine tune the device.

The level of safety in operation and durability of the device thermostats are divided into:

  • Remote – are outside the aquarium, not affected by the aquatic environment and the products of vital activity of aquatic organisms. This increases their service life and provides an opportunity to use cheaper heaters, to replace them without additional costs. To determine the mode of operation, a separate temperature sensor is used, which is located in the aquarium and is connected by wire to a thermostat.
  • Built-in – mounted in a sealed enclosure with a heating element. With this configuration, the entire system of control and heating of water becomes very compact and easy to use.

The latter type of design is most popular among aquarists and is often made in the form of an elongated glass bulb, inside of which there is an electric heater and a thermostat. For greater thermal conductivity, the space of the flask is filled with the smallest ceramic filler.

The tightness of the design provides a rubberized or plastic cap through which the power wire passes. Here is a regulator that allows you to set the desired temperature.

Well-known brands of aquarium equipment – Eheim, Fluval, Ferplast, Aquael, Tetra – produce reliable and high-quality immersion heaters for an aquarium with a thermostat of 25 to 300 watts. Such devices are able to provide the necessary conditions in aquariums up to 1500 liters.

To reduce the likelihood of overheating of water, there is a practice with the simultaneous use of several less powerful thermal devices. In the case when it is not possible to purchase the necessary equipment, it can be done on your own.

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