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Photo decoration aquarium with live aquarium plants – herbal

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Aquarium decoration: photos, video examples, styles and options

And so, as you know, in order for fish to appear in your house, you need a vessel and water. However, aquaria is not just a banal maintenance of fish, it is the creation of a closed ecosystem, an imitation of the natural conditions of the maintenance of aquatic organisms.

It is trite, but aquarian art begins with fish. Before you think about the design of the aquarium, first of all you need to decide on your desires and those fish that will swim in your pond.

And this is very important! Each individual fish needs its own housing conditions, its own water parameters, and other conditions.

And it is for them that one needs to build an “aquarian house,” it is from this that one must make a start. For example, if you decide to start African cichlids and at the same time want to see a garden of living aquarium plants in your aquarium … You initially doom yourself to an actually impossible task. The natural habitat of most African cichlids is the rocky shores of the r. Nyasa and r. Tangany, there are no plants, no algae – this is the “stone desert”.

If the cichlids in the aquarium put the plants, they will pull them up and destroy.
Based on the foregoing, we advise first of all, decide on the fish that will live in your aquarium, study their characteristics and habits, read and learn the conditions of their maintenance. And so after embarking and thinking about the design of the aquarium.
REGISTRATION AQUARIUM GROUND The soil is one of the most important elements of the aquarium, it is his mood. It is very important to approach the issue of his choice with particular attention, because in addition to the decorative functions, the soil plays the role of: a substrate for plants, for spawning and fish life.

It is important to choose the desired fraction of soil, it is important to choose the required volume of soil, and only then the color of the soil. On our site there is a good article about the selection and selection of the soil, we suggest to read – HERE.

Speaking about the decorative properties of the soil, it is recommended to choose the soil of darker tones, so that the bright and light colors of the aquarium bottom do not overshadow the charm and beauty of the “main heroes of the day” – fish. REGISTRATION OF THE AQUARIUM BY STONES AND GROUTES.

An important technical nuance when designing an aquarium with stones, grottoes, caves, etc. is the use of non-toxic, non-toxic materials. If stones, snags are selected and made independently, you need to do everything according to the rules and make sure that they do not emit harmful substances into the water.

Certainly the decorations should not be made of limestone, rubber and metal, no paints and enamels.
Speaking about the aesthetic part of the pond, you should always remember that stones, grottoes, snags take in the aquarium “living space” – living space. The number of such decor is calculated based on the volume of the aquarium and the needs of the fish themselves.

In addition, it should be borne in mind that large decorative elements are placed on the edges of the aquarium or into the background. You should not put a huge castle in the middle.

This is equivalent to having people put a refrigerator in the middle of the kitchen, and not into a corner. Aquarium is an amphitheater of life!
REGISTRATION AQUARIUM FONOM. The background of the aquarium for the aquarium dwellers themselves is not so important.

In fact, the fish can live without it. The background is more important for a person, it can be said – these are “aquarium curtains”, which play a more aesthetic role than a technical one.
For information on what are aquarium backgrounds, how to make and attach them, see HERE.

REGISTRATION OF THE AQUARIUM OF LIVING AND ARTIFICIAL PLANTS.
Continuing to use the metaphors, we can say that if the background of the aquarium is “curtains”, then the plants are “indoor flowers on the windowsill”. From what they will be, how many they will be, depends on what your aquarium “window” will look like.

We recommend to see a wonderful article on this topic – HERE.
LIGHT REGISTRATION AQUARIUM

The power and spectrum of light is important for aquarium plants – this is their source of life. Speaking about the design of the aquarium, the color of light is important. To date, there is a huge variety of colors of aquarium lamps.

Choose to taste! Moreover, there are various bottom aquarium lights in the form of volcanoes, lanterns and LED aerators.

Here they are.


REGISTRATION OF THE AQUARIUM BY OTHER DECOR. Aquariums can be decorated with shells, locks, ships, divers, skulls, etc. In this case, it is not necessary to buy all this in the pet store at a crazy price.

Using such decorations you need to adhere to only two rules: non-toxicity and safety. Shells should not be sharp, and figures of divers made of rubber.

See also article Seashells in the aquarium.
MAIN DIRECTIONS, TYPES AND EXAMPLES OF AQUARIUM DECORATION
The classic design options for an aquarium for fish are:
Biotope – such an aquarium is made under a certain water landscape of a lake or stream.
Dutch – Aquarium, the main place in which allotted to plants. Such an aquarium is popularly called “herbalist”. The most famous Dutch aquariums creates a mega aquarist Takashi Amano, here are his works:
Geographical – such an aquarium is designed for a specific region, it contains fish from this region only.
In the vastness of our country, you can most often meet “Household aquarium” – where the above principles are not respected. In such aquariums, you can often find castles, amphoras, the same divers, skulls, etc., etc., etc.

In addition, there is a whole industry children’s aquariums. Here is an example:

There are other directions in the design of the aquarium.
As they say, so many people have so many opinions.
Next, let’s see the design options for the aquarium.
Pseudo sea aquariums Such aquariums are formed and imitate marine aquariums – the seabed. The prefix “pseudo,” says that in such a reservoir does not contain sea fish.

Only an entourage is created!
As a rule, in such an aquarium, fish of a bright color are chosen, which cichlids often possess, for example, spruce, demanosi, parrots, etc. The aquarium itself is formed by corals, artificial polyps and sea shells.


Dutch aquarium “light option” Aquarium close to the natural habitats of fish. It contains live aquarium plants, snags, stones, but “in a lightweight form.” Such aquariums do not require special knowledge of plant life from an aquarist.

Elementary care for them is the key to success and achievement of goals.



True Dutch Aquarium – Herbalist
These are densely planted aquariums. Fully imitating all the beauty of freshwater bodies.

To create such an aquarium, you need knowledge of plants, you need to study the issue of feeding aquarium plants and applying the CO2 system for an aquarium.



Household, children’s, themed aquarium Such aquariums are made out under a certain idea. As a rule, it is a fiction and fantasy of man.



Futuristic Aquariums or Glo Aquariums Relatively recently, the fashion for creating Glo-reservoirs has entered the aquarist. Where everything glows with neon and plays with phosphorus. Even exist fluorescent live fish.

Such aquariums look beautiful in the evening and at night. More about Glo-fish is here.



Saltwater aquariums These are aquariums that contain sea, saltwater fish. The aquarium is permeated with marine themes.

The disadvantage of such reservoirs is the price and the huge cost of maintenance.



Cichlid Species aquarium in which only fish of the cichl family are kept.
Watch TSIKHLIDNIK – cichlids in the aquarium


Also there are industrial and show aquariums

Marine Aquarium – we launch a competently photo video step-by-step description.

EQUIPMENT FOR THE MARINE AQUARIUM

The first important purchase will of course be the tank itself. Its shape can be different, most often it is a container with a base in the form of a square, a rectangle, less often forms with a convex front (viewing) wall occur. Displacement matters – it will take at least 200 liters, preferably 400 and more.

Do not be tempted by 50 and 100-liters – sea animals in them get sick and die.

Most probably the main purchase will be an external canister filter. Experienced aquarists recommend the Eheim 2260 or 2250 and Fluval 403 or 303.

You will also need special filler materials – it is ceramic chips, coal and sponge.

Purchase a thermostat, a skimmer (a device for removing foam), as well as a pump or pump filter – this is a device for saturating water with oxygen, and in combination with a filter there is also a waste disposal mechanism. Be sure to arrange the grounding of the aquarium: buy a RCD (residual current device) and call an electrician who will correctly bring it out and connect it.

The next purchase is a stock of coal and salt, bacterial preparations, acidity tests, a simple hydrometer (a float that shows how dense the water is) and a siphon for cleaning the bottom.

If funds allow, take another UV lamp with a capacity of 15 watts and a large canister (about 50 liters) to dilute the salt in it. The first month of caring for the aquarium will require significant costs and effort, and then everything will become much easier – daily feeding and about an hour a week for the maintenance of equipment.

marine aquarium photo

Select the desired volume

It goes without saying that the larger the volume of the aquarium, the more expensive its equipment. Although the best volume for the “sea” is considered a capacity of 200 – 250 liters. (it is easiest to maintain a balanced ecosystem), you can start with a smaller displacement aquariums – the best option would be 50 – 80 liters.

A very small aquarium (for example, 20 liters) can also be made “sea” if desired, but it is rather difficult to maintain constant water parameters in it. In this case, the rectangular shape of the container is preferable to the cubic one, and this is due to the possibility of organizing the proper lighting, as well as the placement of stones.

STONES FOR SEA AQUARIUM

Such stones are also called living, since they are genuine fragments of coral reefs from the ocean, and numerous colonies of beneficial bacteria live in their cavities. Some specimens have real thickets of polyps (anemones) on their surface, and inside – small crustaceans, crabs and sea worms.

From such guests need to get rid of, moreover, to do it on time. We do not want to frighten you, but in saltwater aquariums, without your control, life can flow like in a real ocean – some eat others, others parasitize everything alive.

Learn how to install live rock, namely, how to get rid of carnivorous sea anemones, poisonous snails, cones and murex, crayfish, predatory shrimps and all kinds of worms.

Having brought home the purchased stones, they should be treated – washed under running hot water, be sure to wear durable gloves, as these types of unwanted inhabitants leave painful and dangerous burns and bites. Having installed the stones, observe life in it in the dark time – the hungry and active passengers will soon find themselves.

At the stage of dealing with them, use special medications or remove animals with tweezers.

A few words about the second favorite element of the decor – it is seashells in the aquarium. Decorating the seabed, they are absolutely not suitable for our purposes, but beginners often want to use them – it’s beautiful!

The main reason to abandon the shells is the hardness of the water, which invariably grows due to these sources of calcium carbonate (in fact, chalk). Not all aquarium fish will hurt and die, their possible proximity to the sink depends on the species, but they certainly can not reproduce.

marine aquarium photo

Filtration and water recovery systems

The most important and complex point in equipping a marine aquarium, because the water in it must be perfectly clean and contain a minimum amount of nitrates. If in nature the nature itself takes care of this, and the sea currents constantly bring fresh and clean water, then in an aquarium the problem of water purity can be managed only with the help of special equipment.

Samp is a container made of organic glass, divided by partitions into compartments in which various aquarium equipment is installed.

The sump is usually equipped in an aquarium cabinet, but has direct communication with the aquarium. It can be purchased (there is now a large selection of sumps with all the necessary equipment on the market) or it can be made by itself, in this case the aquarist has the opportunity for a unique selection of the aquarium equipment that is most suitable for him.

The basic principle of operation of a sump is a closed loop.

With the help of a return pump, water flows from the sump to the aquarium, and then, exceeding a certain level, it enters the overflow box and then flows by gravity back to the sump. What should be in the sump? Foam separator (skimmer).

With the help of this device organic matter, constantly present there, is removed from the water, even before its disintegration begins. Even invisible to the naked eye, the dirt is quickly collected on the bubbles, which creates a skimmer and accumulates in a special compartment, from which it is then easily removed.

Biological filter. For these purposes, a separate sump compartment is usually filled with filter material.

marine aquarium photo

This may be coral chips, as well as special bio-balls or other porous organic material. The larger the surface of the biological filter, the more bacteria are there, and accordingly the quality of biological filtration improves.

We must not forget about the required amount of oxygen for the process, as well as the rate of flow of water through the filter. Together, these three factors create the biological stability of the entire system.

Algae (refujium).

Algae are capable of very effectively eliminating nitrates from water, and microplankton propagates in the alga, which serves as food for many inhabitants of the marine aquarium. To organize an algae above one of the compartments of the sump with running water, lighting is provided, and the lamp must be sufficiently powerful (70-100 W).

Algae (hetamorph) are placed at the bottom of the compartment, which grow well and multiply in conditions of high nitrate content and bright light. Their number must be kept under control, since with excessive growth of algae absorb too many trace elements from the water, and this is harmful for corals.

The flow of water in the alga should be slower than in the entire aquarium. Return pump.

It is usually installed in a special compartment of the sump with a variable water level. At the same time, the compartment is made sufficiently bulky so that in the event of an emergency power outage or breakdown of the pump to accommodate the entire volume of water that will merge from the aquarium.

To reduce the amount of water that is draining when a similar situation arises, holes are made near the end of the return tube, which is lowered into the aquarium at a distance of 1.5 cm.

When the level falls, air enters the holes and stops draining. We must pay attention to the power of the return pump.

The best solution would be a pump that can pump about 10 volumes of an aquarium per hour. In this case, decomposition products will be removed from the aquarium in time, and the water will be sufficiently saturated with oxygen.

Avtodoliv. The system of compensation for water evaporated from an aquarium, which makes life easier for its owner, since daily level tracking is quite tedious.

The pump (in specialty stores at the moment their large selection is presented) is installed in a separate sump compartment according to the instructions. Additional compartments.

It is recommended to purchase or manufacture your own samp, providing for the availability of spare compartments. Methods of water purification in the marine aquarium are constantly being improved and, perhaps, to install any innovations will require the presence of additional compartments.

In addition, a water heater can be installed in the sump, which in this case does not spoil the appearance created by the aquarist of the “sea” landscape.

FISHING FOR THE SEA AQUARIUM To make your home sea enjoy not only bright beauty, but also a peaceful atmosphere, populate the reservoir with small and non-aggressive views. As new species are added, study the literature to find out which ones easily get along and which ones conflict.

If you decide on the maintenance of exotic predator fish, you will have to confine yourself to one species in order not to turn your aquarium into a torture chamber.

But do not be embarrassed, the choice of fish without exaggeration is great. Rate the diversity of marine aquarium dwellers: parrot fish; backspins; hedgehog fish (without neighbors); fish soldiers; angels: centropig, diakantus and about 20 subspecies; moray eels (without neighbors); fox fish; a wide family of butterfly fish; zebrasome and other surgeon fish; pseudochromisms; clown fish; grams; dogs (without neighbors); tangerines; argus; bullies and many others.

The life expectancy of all is different, but with good care, successful acclimatization and timely treatment, most species live 3-4 or about 10 years, and angelfish are all twenty. Naturally, from the first days you will need to take care of feeding for the fish, given that different species feed in different ways: there are herbivores, carnivores and omnivores, and some, for example, squirrel fish, eat exclusively living food.

Choose the inhabitants so that it is easier to put together a diet for most or all at once. Do not flatter yourself that you can dig up worms, feed house flies or get along with bread crumbs.

For sea fish, branded food is not a whim, but a necessity, so be aware of your responsibility to animals and be ready to constantly buy good food of a certain type.

Organization of the correct flow in the marine aquarium

Current is a vital factor for marine life. It purifies water, brings food and oxygen, and determines all the natural cycles of marine animals. In the marine aquarium, the flow is especially important for “live” stones.

Only with intensive water movement, they are able to fully perform the function of a biological filter.

Under natural habitat conditions, marine animals become accustomed to fairly strong currents, which sometimes give way to calm. Therefore, in the marine aquarium, some pumps can be turned off at night. The minimum volume pumped by the pump for an hour for the “sea” should be 10-15 volumes of the aquarium, although the best figure would be 50 volumes.

The flow of water should not fall directly on invertebrates.

It is better to direct it to the stones so that they are washed as intensely as possible. For these purposes, usually use two pumps installed opposite each other.

In this case, the minimum number of stagnant zones remains in the aquarium, in which the microfloat can die due to the absence of oxygen.

STARTING THE SYSTEM
Before you start such a hobby, it will be correct to read as much literature on this topic as possible, so as to avoid common mistakes at first. Well, the main points of the plan, how to make a marine aquarium yourself, will be provided by our step-by-step guide: assemble the tank, install the main decorative elements, attach the switched off filters, pour the fillers into them, conduct grounding; fill the tank with water from the tap, stand for 24 hours, drain; fill three-quarters of the volume of water from the tap, turn on the filters, heating (25-26 ° C)

and pump, uphold the system for seven days; turn off the apparatuses, clean the carbon filler filter and lay a new portion, add sea salt to the water (37 grams of salt for 1 l of water); turn on the pump so that the salt mixes and dissolves, then turn off; when the water settles, clean the bottom with a siphon – there will be a muddy sediment, it must be removed; lay the soil and make all your algae and decorations (stones, houses, shells);

measure the water density with a hydrometer, bring the indicator up to 1’022-1’024 g / l, pouring either fresh water or saline solution, at the same time fill the tank almost to the edges (space from the top edge is 4-5 cm); wait a week for the water to settle, but after about three days turn on the filters, pump, skimmer and heating, add the drug with bacteria or live rocks (reefs); a week passed, the bacteria had time to decompose the dead organics,

and filters cleaned the water; check the test content of ammonium, nitrite and phosphorus, as well as acid-base balance (the rate of the first not more than 0.5 mg per liter, the second – not less than 8.0); if the indices deviate, it means that the decay has not yet ended, to put it simply, something is rotting in the water – this needs to be found and removed (remove and clean all the stones and scenery);

when all indicators are normal, you can run the first settlers – fish, 2-3 small individuals; At this stage, you need to check the indicators daily and make water changes until the bacteria colonize the contents of the aquarium and can not completely process the waste of fish; when the process is established, launch new fish, 1-2 per week, carefully checking the indicators with tests, changing the water; everything gradually enters the rut, and in three months you will have a reliable biosystem!

Aquarium fridge

The usual temperature for a saltwater aquarium is 25-26 degrees. If its lower limit is easily regulated with the help of a water heater, then in case of strong heat very often there is a problem with cooling the water to the desired parameters.

An aquarium refrigerator is not a cheap pleasure, but when you consider that in a particularly hot season, all aquarium inhabitants can die due to overheating, installing it is worth it.

VIDEO OF THE MARINE AQUARIUM

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