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Aquarium 30 liters: description, care, content, photos, video

When buying an aquarium, think about what fish you want to keep. With a lack of free space in the room is optimal aquarium of 30 liters. The volume allows you to place a variety of aquarium inhabitants.

For beginners, this is the best option.

Content

  • 1 What kind of lighting can be considered optimal?
  • 2 Placement of vegetation
  • 3 Filter
  • 4 Compressor
  • 5 The inhabitants of the aquarium
  • 6 Settlement options
  • 7 Decorative items
  • 8 Heater and thermometer
  • 9 INTERESTING ARTICLES:

Lamp for aquarium 30 liters should have a secure mount and create the optimal luminous flux. For this purpose, incandescent lamps (ordinary household electric lamps), fluorescent or LED lamps can be used.

The power of incandescent bulbs is determined at the rate of 1.2-1.5 watts per liter of volume. This kind of lighting is simple, but has several disadvantages: its luminous flux is clearly directed to one point, the water around this place is very hot, and the power consumption is unreasonably high. The water in such an aquarium may begin to bloom, the walls are covered with yellow (if there is a lack of light) or green (if there is a surplus) with bloom.

In aquariums equipped with electric lamps, a frequent visitor is a blue-green alga and “black beard”.

It is advantageous to equip an aquarium with a size of 30 liters with luminescent lighting options (sufficient power will be 15–20 W). Lamps can be daylight or have a certain yellowness. Their mechanism of operation provides a good light output, efficiency and the absence of a heating effect.

The disadvantage is the mercury vapor contained in the instrument. In the case of the smallest crack or split, they will fall into the air of the room and create certain problems for people’s health.

The optimal and modern option for nano aquariums – LED lamps. They are certainly more expensive, but economical, safe and effective.

In addition to the options described today, designers use low-power lamps that have color shades. Thanks to them, the scales of fish shimmer, the green of the plants becomes expressive, and the corals and other design elements acquire a mysterious appearance.

For greater effect, place them at the bottom, along the line of intersection of the faces, behind the rear wall.

Plants are not only decoration of the aquarium, but also an integral part of the microflora of the underwater world. They allow you to saturate the water with oxygen, and also serve as a shelter for many species of fish. Beginners better choose unpretentious types of plants.

In a house of relatively small size, not exceeding 30 liters, you can “settle” these types of greenery: Geterantera; Congolese fern; Javanese, Key or Weeping Moss; Pogostemon Helfer; Hornpaw; Anubias Barter dwarf; Chemianthus dwarf Cuban. The amount of greenery planted in accordance with the volume of the aquarium, the plants should not be too dense.

Otherwise, guppies, catfish or barbs will feel uncomfortable.

Continuous water purification is a definite benefit. Modern filters do not purify water from everything, but from pathogenic bacteria, dirt, rot from plants and feed. The fish quickly become accustomed to the fact that the water flows are constantly distilled, and do not experience such stress as from the constant dragging of the filter, with which we can push ten liters in an aquarium and twenty in an aquarium.

There are a great many filter models, and it is not difficult to choose the best option.

The filter operates under the pressure of a mass of water. Therefore, it makes no difference what size the filter is: the main thing is that it maintains the necessary power.

For small aquarium devices, this power is optimal from 25 watts to 40 watts, although too powerful a device can work poorly and overtake too strong streams of water.

The safety rules for the filter, regardless of its power, are the same:

  • The filter can not be permanently left in the aquarium off. If it still happened, or you turned off the light for a long time – you need to get the filter out of the aquarium and how to clean it.
  • You can not stick your hands in the aquarium when the filter is running. However, this applies to any electrical equipment that is directly related to the aquarium. Thus you can get a discharge, inadvertently jerking touching the device, not particularly strong, but quite tangible.
  • The filter must not be allowed to remain in the air: it must be completely immersed in water, otherwise it affects its performance.
  • The filter, which was permanently removed from the aquarium, cannot be immediately installed back: you must first wash it or completely replace the filtering material in it.
  • Just bought the filter must be thoroughly washed, so that the factory smell and accidentally caught bacteria do not harm the fish.
  • The filter should be placed no closer than three or four centimeters from the bottom, and ensure that this gap remains constant, as the water from the aquarium tends to evaporate, especially under intense lighting.

    But at the same time it is necessary to observe the golden mean, and not to leave the working parts of the filter on the air: the device must be completely covered with water. A broken and malfunctioning filter must be removed immediately from the aquarium.

    A thirty-liter aquarium compressor is absolutely necessary. Saturation of the water with additional oxygen will be very important for large and small inhabitants of the aquarium, so you need to attend to the correct source.
    The compressor, in fact, is not mounted inside the aquarium, but mainly on the side or rear wall of the aquarium outside. From the compressor leaves the hose, which we actually lower into the water.

    On the hose is a nebulizer that supplies oxygen to the water. There is also a check valve in the hose: it prevents water from entering the hose and does not let it into the compressor.
    The most important condition that must be observed is to ensure that the spray hose does not scratch the bottom. Spray clogged micro soil particles, and because of this, stops working normally.
    The location of the hose itself, of course, depends on where you fixed the compressor. Usually the compressor is mounted on the back wall of the aquarium, or on the side wall – the one that is farther from the passage near the aquarium.

    Thus, the hose is inside the aquarium from the side or the back, and successfully masks from the view from the outside, and from the inhabitants of any plants or decorations.

    The capacity of the compressor in an aquarium depends on its displacement. According to a common formula, a liter of air per hour is required for every liter of water in an aquarium.

    Thus, we need a compressor for a thirty-liter jar capable of maintaining a power of 30 l / h.
    An excess of oxygen will affect the inhabitants of the aquarium no better than its disadvantage – do not forget that if you grow in abundance in the aquarium greens, then oxygen is somehow produced: in this underwater plants do not differ from any other.

    So, we installed the compressor in a convenient place, now we create the supply of oxygen to the water:

  • On one side of the hose fasten the sprayer and lower it into the water.
  • We put a check valve on the second side of the hose: we fasten it as best as possible in order to avoid even accidental water ingress into the appliance.
  • We connect the end of the hose with the valve to the compressor, and turn on our design. If everything is in order, you will see characteristic bubbles running through the water.
  • One of the drawbacks of compressors for many years was their annoying buzz. Indeed, even a small device, overtaking oxygen, constantly vibrates and buzzes.

    Therefore, many aquarists, especially those who installed an aquarium near their beds, turn off the compressor at night, which is not particularly useful for the inhabitants of the can.

    However, in recent years a large selection of silent compressors has appeared, and the problem of noise gradually ceases to exist. Of course, a lot still depends on the power, and a compressor operating on a huge 1,000-ton aquarium cannot be completely silent, but in our case, if we are going to buy an aquarium of 30 liters, the compressor will most likely be quiet.

    It is best to check the operation of the compressor, not planting plants first and not running fish, observe its performance, check for possible problems and, of course, the strength of the non-return valve. It can be strengthened in the aquarium with the very first of the devices, and while all the other nuances are being prepared, you can see if everything is in order with the oxygen supply.

    In general, in the launch of the aquarium in no hurry. This process is calm, measured and peaceful, so the main thing that you can advise to a beginner aquarist is to be patient and act carefully and in stages, so that plants, fish, snails and any other inhabitants of the aquarium take root.

    After reviewing the equipment, we will return to the issue of the startup algorithm.

    Now it is necessary to decide which fish should live in a 30-liter aquarium.
    This issue should be taken very seriously, because the relocation in the aquarium can lead to disastrous consequences. It is advisable to run smaller fish first to avoid unnecessary trouble.
    In the aquarium of such volumes it is worth choosing a few small schooling fish or a pair of medium ones, for example, honey goura or macropods, apistograms or pelvic chromis. In addition to fish, you can put a variety of shrimp, crabs and mollusks.

    In the 30-liter aquarium, only small fish should dwell, as it will be uncomfortable to live in such modest volumes.

    For the settlement of the aquarium, you can choose one of the following options:
    • 3 cock,
    • from 9 to 12 cardinals,
    • about 15 neons,
    • 15 Norman blue-eyed
    • about 20 guppies,
    • 20 fish guppies Endler,
    • slightly more than 30 microassembly fish
    Now let’s review a brief information about each type of fish:
    Cockerels
    Males are a very common type of fish. Males have beautiful fan fins.

    Females without such, but they have a bright color.

    The required water temperature is 26 degrees.
    The size of an adult individual is 5–6 cm.
    Cardinal
    Very interesting and mobile fish. She likes to have an abundance of plants.

    Unpretentious to food.
    The required water temperature is 18-21 degrees.
    Adult size – 2 cm.
    Neon
    Quite interesting fish that live in flocks. Caring for them is completely easy.

    Neons, like cardinals, prefer a lot of plants in an aquarium. They need soft water.
    The required water temperature is 22-25 degrees.
    Adult size – 4 cm.
    Norman Blue Eyes:
    A beautiful schooling fish that has bright neon eyes, which gives the aquarium a special look. The fish is mobile and active.
    The required water temperature is 20-25 degrees.
    Adult size – 3-4 cm
    Guppy
    Absolutely unpretentious type of fish. Males have a brightly colored body and a beautiful tail, females are gray and inconspicuous.

    They have a high degree of fertility: after a month of purchasing a female you can see 20 fry.
    To water temperature they are undemanding.
    The size of an adult individual – male – 3-4 cm, female – 6 cm.
    Guppy Endler
    Guppy Endler is a type of guppy that has not yet been influenced by selection. These fish are slightly smaller than simple guppies: males grow up to 2-3 cm.
    Microassembly
    Very small fish, which is perfect for very small aquariums. To water, this type of fish unpretentious.
    The required water temperature is 22-28 degrees.
    Adult size – 2 cm.

    To create an original design of an aquarium of 30 liters, you need to take care of the decorative elements. Thanks to the decorations, it is possible to design an artificial reservoir in a different style. For these purposes, the following elements are used: various “wallpapers” for the back wall of the aquarium; snags; seashells; locks; ship models and stuff.

    After recreating the atmosphere of the underwater kingdom, it’s time to think about what kind of fish to settle in an artificial reservoir and how many snails should be in the aquarium.

    So, when we already know everything about filters and compressors, it’s time to talk about temperature — in our case, it’s the temperature of the water in the aquarium.

    Your task in the regulation of temperature is reduced precisely to increase: you can not cool the water by any method. Is that if there is a place in the aquarium, you can very carefully pour a little more cool water.
    However, we are now talking about heaters. In the middle lane, winter is sometimes very aggressive, and even with normal heating in a house, sometimes room temperature at best is +20 degrees Celsius.

    Aqua-environment has the ability to maintain the temperature of the surrounding aquarium environment, so we just need to get a heater, and, of course, a thermometer.

    So, choose a heater. Inexperienced aquarists imagine a heater, like a kind of boiler, which is poured into the aquarium and waiting for the water to warm up to the desired temperature.

    In fact, the process is somewhat more complicated.

    There are two types of aquarium heaters that differ in their design: mechanical and electronic. A mechanical heater is usually less accurate, and is not suitable in those cases if you have pets that are especially sensitive to temperature changes.

    It usually has an error of two to three degrees. Its only significant plus is cheapness.

    Electronic heater is much more accurate, so with its help you can adjust the temperature as accurately as possible.

    Such heaters, the classic bulb shape, the most common. However, there is another version of the bottom heater, which runs along the bottom under the ground in the form of a cable, which gives a certain odds in aesthetics, but you cannot quickly remove or position such a heater without damaging the exposure and without rummaging through the ground.

    In addition, there is another version of heater mats, but replacing them is even more difficult – you have to completely raise the aquarium, and they spend most of the heat generated in vain. True, there is no particular danger of overheating.

    Most modern heaters have a thermostat with which you can set the temperature that needs to be maintained. Devices without adjustment heat the water and in fact follow the principle of a boiler, constantly supplying heat.

    Therefore, if you decide to buy just a heater, then you need to calculate the power of the device based on the displacement of the can. It is best to consult with the seller or experienced fish owners when buying, so as not to miscalculate with the parameters you need.

    It should be very, very carefully to ensure that the heater was in good condition.

    Therefore, be sure to fasten the thermometer. Temperature meters are also unequal: there are versions of external and internal thermometers.

    The outer ones are glued on the front or side wall of the can with velcro and determine the temperature through the glass, which is not particularly accurate in principle. The internal options are hooked on the suction cup inside the aquarium, and the only thing that could threaten such a thermometer is to be thrown into the ground by an especially active aquarium dweller.

    There are only two fault options for a heater: the heater does not turn on or turn off. In the first case, everything is not so terrible – the fish without much pleasure, but will survive a temporary decrease in temperature. In the second case, when the heater does not turn off, we have every chance of getting a rich ear from exotic fish, if you were not close to the aquarium at the time of the breakdown of the device.

    Therefore, it is worth a very responsible approach to the choice of the heater, so as not to cause irreparable harm to the population of the aquarium.

    The temperature for spawners must in some cases be slightly higher than the temperature for aquariums with adult fish, but in any case the optimum temperature ranges from +25 to +27 degrees Celsius: this is the standard at which almost all types of freshwater ornamental animals can live relatively normally fish, frogs and shrimps.
    For each pet, of course, there are certain rules for maintenance, and when choosing an aquarium population, you should carefully read them.

    So, we choose the heater set in the aquarium. It is also best to check before settling with fish, so that if the optimum temperature was not possible to create, try other equipment options.

    If everything goes well, then you can start planning lighting.

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