maintenance, care, compatibility
The optimal temperature for fish in an aquarium and how to maintain it
About temperature limits for warm and cold-water inhabitants of reservoirs
Is it true that cichlids tolerate different temperature ranges?
In natural waters, fish are more accustomed to temperature changes, since this is their natural habitat. Yes, and the area of water space is such that warming or cooling water occurs gradually.
So the fish here have time to adapt.
With aquariums, the situation is somewhat different: the smaller the volume, the more tangible the temperature jumps. And the more likely the development of “fish” diseases.
Novice aquarists should consider this feature and know what the normal water temperature in the aquarium is.
In one aquarium, it is desirable to keep the fish, accustomed to certain conditions of life, with the same features of the body. Despite the fact that all the fish – cold-storage, some of them live in cold waters, others – in the warm.
- Fishes accustomed to warm waters can be divided into 2 species: consuming a small amount of O2 and those who need large reserves of oxygen.
- A cold-water type of fish is only called that – they calmly withstand different temperatures, but they require a large amount of oxygen in the water.
For beginners aquarists can recommend small aquariums with low-breathing warm-water fish. In large tanks, it is better to initially contain the cold-water inhabitants of aquariums.
What should be the temperature of the water in the home aquarium
Goldfish: description, types, highlights
The temperature of the water in the aquarium is the most important factor when breeding fish
So, you decided to buy a few fish. In this case, it will not hurt you to know what kind of temperature in the aquarium prefers.
It’s pretty simple. Most of the existing ornamental fish today are quite suitable temperature from 22 to 26 degrees.
There are some types of fish (there are few of them) for which the optimum temperature will be slightly higher – from 28 to 31 degrees. These include, above all, discus and labyrinth fish.
But goldfish, on the contrary, prefer a cooler water temperature in the aquarium – only from 18 to 23 degrees. Although they, of course, can live quite a long time (more than a year) in water, say, about twenty-five degrees.
But after that, goldfish invariably develop various diseases and ailments. Therefore, it is better to maintain an optimal cool temperature.
The remaining types of fish, perhaps, are not so demanding and can quite comfortably exist at a standard water temperature in the aquarium of 22-26 degrees.
For all aquarium fish, the water temperature in the aquarium is important, so you need to monitor it periodically. For most of the inhabitants of the aquarium, a temperature range of between 22 and 26 degrees is suitable. Discus and labyrinth fish need a temperature of 28-30 degrees, and goldfish – from 18 to 23.
Of course, they can live at elevated temperatures, but over time, diseases cannot be avoided: most often, swim bladder dysfunction occurs in animals.
Ensure that there are no sudden changes in temperature (more than 4 degrees) in the aquarium. A smooth change is acceptable, but by no means drastic. However, jumps occur quite often, and especially for small aquariums, the capacity of which is less than 60 liters.
This is due to the fact that a small amount of water heats up quickly, but cools down for a short time. So, for example, a window leaf that is open for a few minutes can cool the water very much, and aquarium fish will get chilodonellosis or a bacterial infection.
If there is no thermometer in the aquarium, the owner will not be able to find out about such jumps in temperature, and the symptoms of the disease may appear very late.
In order to maintain the optimum water temperature in the aquarium all the time, a thermometer and a heating pad are needed. A thermometer should be in every aquarist. It should be located in the aquarium so that you can clearly see the temperature.
This is important because the faster a person sees the changes and takes the necessary actions, the less the inhabitants of the aquarium will suffer. Recently, the choice of thermometers is huge, so everyone can choose a convenient one for themselves.
To maintain a constant temperature in the aquarium, you need a heating pad that heats the water to the desired temperature and then automatically turns off. If it has a high level of power, then residents of the aquarium are not afraid of drafts, temperature changes, or airing.
If you do not have the opportunity to constantly wonder what the temperature of the water in the aquarium, then you need a heating pad. The main thing is to choose a quality one, because otherwise it may not always respond to temperature drops, not turn on, or, on the contrary, warm water, not turn off, and your fish can boil.
To avoid this, the heating pad must be changed periodically.
If you really care about your fish, then purchase only proven products for them; Do not rush to choose, consult with experienced aquarists, read reviews about the product and only then make a purchase.
The lifespan of a fish depends on many factors. There is a certain pattern: small inhabitants of aquariums live 1-5 years, medium (5-10 cm) – 10-12 years, large-sized – 15 – 35 years. Catfish, carp, sturgeon and can outlast a person at all.
Breeding karrezubye representatives, for example, Notobranchus, live in puddles, die immediately after the pond dries out, the eggs survive. Even if you breed them at home, they will live only a few months.
Most experts are inclined to believe that the average age of a goldfish is 4-5 years, in good conditions and professional care a pet can live 10-15 years. There is information that in one of Moscow zoos the fish has lived for 34 years, in the UK – 43 years.
Factors that affect the life of the “golden” inhabitants of the aquarium
How much live aquarium goldfish, directly affected by water temperature. Fish are cold-blooded animals, that is, their body temperature is almost equal to the temperature of the water in which they are located.
Warm water accelerates metabolic processes, the body will wear out faster. The color of older individuals is more colorful compared to the young.
Can kill your pet and improper feeding faster. Remember that food should not be only dry. Overfeeding is more harmful than underfeeding.
Periodically it is necessary to do fasting days for the “golden” beauties.
The population of the aquarium and its size is important for the normal existence of fish. Before buying individuals, make sure that they are compatible and will not survive each other. Do not forget to change the water.
Professional aquarists say that a tank of 150-200 liters is ideal for fish.
Following these rules will significantly increase the chances of your pets becoming long-lived.
The motive for writing this article was the communication on the form Fanfishka.ru with a certain citizen who wrote in the section on helping to determine the disease of fish.
“Please help me with a telescope at the age of 6 months. I have not eaten anything for three days. Swims on the surface with difficulty, enough air. External damage and tumors are not observed.
Help if you can still, it’s a pity to lose a fish. ”
Being a conscientious and sensitive person, I gave her a plan of action and events according to the full scheme, advised the preparations. And then, when I wrote everything, I thought – why should I treat it so radically, maybe the reason for the poor health of the fish lies on the surface? 🙂
In this connection, I asked a citizen: “Tell me, what is the volume of your aquarium, who lives there besides the telescope, etc.”.
When I got the answer, I just went nuts! I am trying to get along with treatment and help, but it turns out that … read the answer: “Aquarium 80 l. 1 gourami, 2 thorns, 2 gold, 2 telescopes (1 patient, another healthy, but for some reason it does not grow), 2 zebrafish, 2 small antsistrus, 2 speckled catfish, 1 scalar, 2 ampouleries … ”.
The reason that the telescope was bad – was disclosed.
Imagine if 16 people planted in an eight-meter hut, how much would they stretch. Whatever the conditions in this hut, the sea would start in a month.
Vendors of pet stores are putting fish to beginner aquarists using their insatiable, desirable “I want this fish, this one and that one and those catfish”. At the same time, neither of them think about the further fate of the fish.
Sad! But for some reason, this is exactly the fate of “cramming in untill” that only aquarium inhabitants comprehend. Imagine, mother and daughter come to the pet store and say: “Give us 15 cats, 3 Yorkshire terriers, 5 chinchillas and one sheep-dog and 2 more parrots do not forget.”
Unfortunately, with aquarium fish this is exactly what happens.
And then, after a while, a convulsive scripture begins and the search for an answer to the questions: why the fish die and die, why do the fish lie at the bottom, float or swim on the surface, do not grow and do not eat!
HERE’S OWN, WHAT HAS BEEN AWARDED ME WRITE THIS ARTICLE!
This is some kind of attempt to stop the mockery of fish! An article for future similar questions.
An article that will somehow help newcomers and people who are going to buy an aquarium to understand that the fish are the same living things as we do – they grow, require certain conditions of detention, have their own characteristics, etc.
Very clearly, this problem is visible in Goldfish (pearls, comets, telescopes, veils, shubunkin, oranda, ranch, koi carps, etc.). People either do not know or do not understand that this family of fish belongs to large species.
In fact, they need to be kept in ponds (as it was in Dr. China) or in large aquariums.
But it was not there! People for some reason have developed a Hollywood stereotype that Goldfish looks beautiful in a round small aquarium.
HOWEVER, THIS IS NOT THE CASE. The minimum volume of an aquarium for a pair of goldfish should be from 100 liters.
This is the minimum in which they can live normally, and it’s not a fact that they will grow “to their full height”.
Therefore, recalling the above example of a citizen who has an 80-liter aquarium in which: 4th scrofula, scalar, gourami and others … it is not surprising to hear “My golden fish does not eat anything, lies at the bottom or swims the belly to the top.” And it touches the question, why do they not grow?))) But how can you grow here, you wouldn’t die!
In addition, in this example, there is a relative compatibility of fish. We must not forget that Scalaria is a peaceful, but still South American cichlid, and somehow it’s not a friend with goldfish.
The same goes for the gourami – they are peaceful, but snooty individuals come across.
Summarizing what has been said, I earnestly ask everyone not to violate the norms and conditions of keeping the fish.
Do not be greedy!
And then your fish will grow beautiful and big.
Somewhere I read that for 1 cm. The body of a fish without a tail should have 2-3 liters of water in an aquarium. Who cares here is a link to the compilation – How much can the fish in an aquarium X liters (at the end of the article, select the aquarium of the desired volume).
Now I would like to talk about other reasons that lead to poor health of fish, without any visible reason (signs of the disease are not visually visible).
If the norms of the volume of the aquarium are not violated, the compatibility of the fish and their number are not violated, and the fish still float or vice versa lie at the bottom and swallow air, then the reason may be:
Poisoning fish with nitrogen, ammonia,
and more simply poop
We live in the air, and the fish in the water. Parameters of aquarium water directly affect the health of the fish.
In the process of life, aquarium fish and other inhabitants defecate, another organic matter dies, the remains of food decompose, which leads to excessive saturation of water with nitrogenous compounds that are detrimental to all living things.
Thus, the cause of poor health or a pestilence in fish may be:
– lack of care for the aquarium (cleaning, cleaning, siphon, no filter or replacement of aquarium water).
– overfeeding fish (the presence in the aquarium is not eaten feed).
– late utilization of dead fish and others (some newbies watch snails burst dead fish, this is absolutely impossible).
What to do in this case? It is necessary to eliminate the sources of nitrogen excretion:
– urgently transplant fish into another aquarium with clean water;
– enhance aeration and filtration;
– clean the aquarium, and then replace it? aquarium water to fresh;
– fill in the filter aquarium coal;
It should always be remembered that Aquarium water needs to be replaced weekly. However, this is not always good – old water is better than fresh, especially for young aquariums, in which the biobalance is not yet tuned.
So this should also be done with the mind and as needed. If you see that the water in your “young aquarium” is not green, not muddy, etc. Replace at the beginning of 1 / 5-1 / 10 of the volume of aquarium water.
However, one should always keep in mind that clear water is not an indicator of its purity. With that said, it is necessary to develop your own “tactics” of water changes based on the volume of the aquarium, its age and the preferences of the fish, etc.
Emergency fish transplant – This is a temporary measure, if the fish is very profitable. As a rule, when a fish is not feeling well (lying on the bottom, swallowing air, swimming on its side, etc.), such an action brings it to life and after 2-3 hours it is cheerful and cheerful.
It should be remembered that such a transplant should be done in the water at about the same temperature as in the aquarium, the water should be separated (preferably), do not forget to provide aeration. And yet, if there is no other aquarium, an emergency temporary transfer can be carried out in a basin or other vessel.
About coal. Aquarium coal is sold in any pet store. It is not very expensive, so I recommend to buy it in reserve.
Coal is a great additional measure in the fight against “poop and other evil spirits.” If it is not at hand, you can temporarily take human activated carbon, wrap it in gauze or bandage and put it in the filter.
There are also so-called ion-exchange resins, for example, zeolite, they also refer to absorbents as coal, but they work, if you can say so at a more subtle level — removing nitrites and nitrates from the aquarium — decomposition products of ammonia, which in turn is formed from dead organics and waste products of hydrobionts.
Water filtration. Everything is simple. The aquarium filter must be suitable for the volume of aquarium water.
Additional helpers: aquarium plants, as well as snails, shrimps and crustaceans.
In the end, we can advise the drug for quick cleaning of the aquarium from sewage – TetraAqua Biocoryn.
Another reason that the fish die can be the wrong adaptation of newly purchased fish.
Well, firstly, you should not release new fish immediately into the aquarium. Everyone knows that.
Let them acclimatize: Therefore, see the article All about Purchasing Transplant Fish Shipping!
Secondly, the fish that lived in the pet store or grew up in another pond got used to certain water parameters (pH, hD, temperature) and if you transplant them into water with radically opposite parameters, this can lead to their death in a day or a week.
Actually therefore for the correct adaptation there are so-called quarantine aquariums. You kill two birds with one stone: check whether new fish are contagious and adapt them to new conditions.
The quarantine principle is simple – it is a small aquarium (another reservoir) into which new aquarium inhabitants are launched and within a week they are checked for lice, as well as they gradually add aquarium water from the aquarium in which they will live.
You can do without quarantine, but it is a risk! As a rule, it carries in 80% of cases, but 20% still remain.
To neutralize these 20% I recommend to transfer fish with the drug company Tetra AquaSave (Tetra AquaSafe), read here DRUGS AND TETRA AIR CONDITIONERS. This preparation “improves” aquarium water and reduces the stress of fish during transplantation.
The third reason that the fish is bad is asphyxia, caused by the lack of sufficient aeration of aquarium water.
The obvious signs of asphyxiation (suffocation) in fish are: frequent opening of the mouth, heavy breathing, wide opening of the mouth – as if yawning, the fish swims near the surface and there is enough oxygen.
You should know that the fish breathe oxygen dissolved in aquarium water, which they pass through the gills with water and if it is not enough of the fish simply suffocate.
Enhanced aeration and bringing it back to normal will correct the situation!
Another – the fourth reason for the ascent of the fish with a belly to the top can be the use of tap water
Opinions on this are different. While talking and debating on this topic, some comrades say: “Yes, all this is fihgnya, I fill in unperturbed tap water in the aquarium and everything is fine – the fish will not die”. However, it is worth noting that tap water in many regions of the CIS is simply terrible!
It contains so much bleach and other impurities that it is scary to use it. Somewhere, of course, the water is better here and “carries” – the fish do not die.
In the Czech Republic, for example, tap water is generally spring water from the Karlovy Vary sources, but alas, where is the Czech Republic, and where are we ?!
Therefore it is very important to use only separated water for the aquarium. In addition to the fact that chlorine will evaporate from the water and heavy impurities will settle, excess oxygen will also be released, which are no less destructive for fish.
What to do if you poured tap water and fish from this poplohelo? Ideally transplanted into separated water.
However, if you originally poured water, then you probably do not have separated water. One way out is to add aquarium chemistry that stabilizes the aquarium water.
For example, the aforementioned Tetra AquaSafe or TetraAqua CrystalWater.
The fifth reason for the death of fish – a violation of the temperature
The generally accepted temperature measure of aquarium water for many fish is 25 degrees Celsius. But too cold water or too warm leads to all the same symptoms: the ascent of the fish, lying on the bottom, etc.
With cold water, everything is clear – you need to buy a thermostat and bring the reduced temperature to the desired one. But with too warm water is much more complicated.
Usually aquarists encounter this problem in the summer, when the water in the aquarium boils and rolls over 30 degrees, from which the fish become lethargic and “faint”.
There are three ways out of this situation:
– to cool the aquarium water handicraft: using frozen 2n. bottles from the fridge. But – this is not very convenient, because frozen water quickly gives off cold and you need to constantly change the bottle.
In addition, jumps and temperature fluctuations – there, no less harmful than just elevated water temperature.
– Special aquarium cooling installations are sold, but alas, they are expensive.
– buy an air conditioner and install it in a room with an aquarium, in addition to room stuffiness, the air conditioner will also beat down the aquarium heat. The last option in my opinion the most acceptable.
The sixth and seventh reason
Sometimes the cause of bloating the fish and swimming a belly or side to the top is overfeeding. Again, this reason is largely related to goldfish, because they suffer from gluttony, overeating and begging.
Do not enter them on occasion. Feed them exactly as much as it should be.
Otherwise, your gluttons will earn inflammation of the gastrointestinal tract or, more simply, they will suffer from constipation!
Another reason for which the fish can lie down for no apparent reason is stress. Well, do not like her neighbors and that’s it. Or it often happens that they take young fish, and all the boys and one female grow out of it, and as a result “the boys start a showdown” – who is in charge.
The weak begin to chase and tyrannize, with the result that they are hammered into a corner, lie on the bottom, well, and die. There is only one way out, to resettle everyone, give them to friends or back to the pet shop.
What else can affect the health of fish:
– excess lighting or stress from it;
– decorating an aquarium with chemically dangerous decorations (metal, rubber, plastic);
Summing up, it is possible to make an unequivocal conclusion that the correct maintenance of fish is a panacea for many aquarium ills. If you are attentive to your aquarium dwellers, they will thank you too.
beauty and longevity!
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