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Water temperature for aquarium fish

maintenance, care, compatibility

Aquarium water temperature

Water temperature for aquarium fish

One of the most important parameters of aquarium water is its temperature. Most aquarium fish feel comfortable at a temperature of 22-26 ° C.

But there are fish that prefer a lower or higher temperature.

For example, discus is a heat-loving fish, a comfortable temperature for their maintenance is 28-31 ° C. But the Goldfish family, on the contrary, prefers cooler water at 18-23 ° C.

Thus, speaking of the temperature regime in an aquarium, one should take into account the comfortable temperature parameters for a specific fish. It should also be noted that the temperature of aquarium water directly affects the lifespan of some species of fish.

For example, neons at a temperature of 18 ° C live 4 years, at 22 ° C – 3 years, 27 ° C – 1.5 years.

Perhaps the most important rule for an aquarist is to prevent sudden changes in temperature (2-4 degrees). Such vibrations are extremely harmful.
for fish.

Today, there are virtually no problems with maintaining the temperature regime in an aquarium. Therefore, when on the Internet you come across articles about the Soviet methods of “boiling with a kettle” involuntarily you are touched.

Only one thing is frustrating – after all, articles on this topic are usually looked for and viewed by novices or young aquarists who are so easily confused with unnecessary, unnecessary information.

The nuances covered in this article for an experienced aquarist will not inspire innovation, but beginners will be noticed.

So, to maintain the required temperature regime of aquarium water, you need to buy two things at the pet shop:

1. Thermostat heater.

2. Thermometer with suction cups.

Regarding the temperature control of the heater for the aquarium – it is chosen based on the volume of the aquarium (its power must be appropriate). They fix it, as a rule, on the back wall of the aquarium, near the filter with aeration, so that it is completely immersed in the input.

IMPORTANT: when setting the desired temperature on the scale of the thermostat, the first time (6-12 hours) watch the level of heating of the aquarium water. This is due to the fact that often the scale of the thermostat does not always correspond to the actual temperature of water heating (especially in Chinese thermostats) or the thermostat does not quite fit the volume of the aquarium.

Failure to comply with this rule may lead to the fact that in the morning your aquarium may turn into “a pot with a good, elite ear.”

Well, the second thing to which you should pay attention – the heater for the aquarium should be completely immersed in water. Do not allow it to be in the on state in air (in whole or in part).

This will lead to its rapid overheating.

Regarding thermometers for aquarium – here everything is simple! They are:

glass (ordinary)

in the form of a self-adhesive strip thermometers for the aquarium

(I do not recommend. creatively — yes, it is practical — no, especially since this strip “fades” over time);

and electronic thermometers for aquarium $ 12;

When buying a thermometer should pay attention to the quality of suckers. If they are weak – the thermometer will often fall to the ground.

In addition, there are fish that pathologically may not like the thermometer and they will deliberately drop it (I have suffered from these gays blue).

I think that with the heating of aquarium water everything is clear: – set, adjusted and forgot.

Let’s now talk about what to do if the temperature goes over the top (from overheating or “summer in August”). Nowadays, this is also not a problem – the air conditioner will not only cool the room, but also lower the temperature of the water in the aquarium.

Another question is what to do if it is not? Or if you need to urgently lower the temperature? Ice from the refrigerator will come to the rescue.

At one time, I poured water into plastic 2-liter bottles (carefully removing the bottle from the label and glue beforehand) and frozen them in the refrigerator. After lowering them into the aquarium and thereby lowered the temperature of the water to the desired.

This method of lowering the temperature has two minuses: firstly, the frozen bottles and ice heat up quite quickly – they often need to be frozen, and secondly: sudden, frequent temperature drops are poorly tolerated by aquarium fish. If the temperature is “tolerable” it is better not to add an ice bottle.

REMEMBER: PROVIDING A COMFORTABLE AND CONSTANT TEMPERATURE OF AQUARIUM WATER IS THE KEY TO THE HEALTH OF YOUR AQUARIUM FISH.

Video about the temperature and care of the aquarium

Water temperature in a fish tank – Frequently asked questions by aquarists

Does this mean that the temperature of the water directly affects the fish?

Water temperature affects the speed of physiological processes in the body of fish. For example, in winter, the fish of our water bodies is inactive, since the level of metabolism drops significantly in cold water.

At high temperatures, water retains less dissolved oxygen, and for fish it is very important. That is why in the summer we often see fish rise to the surface and breathe heavily.

Rapid changes in temperature aquarium fish suffer poorly, this is one of the reasons from which newly acquired fish die. In order for fish to get used, they need to be acclimatized.
Simply put, the higher the temperature of the water, the faster the fish grow, but they also age faster.

How sensitive are fish to temperature extremes?

And what tropical fish can you keep in cold water?

Do I need to change the water in the aquarium with water of the same temperature?

Yes, it is desirable that she was as close as possible. But at the same time, in many species of tropical fish, the addition of fresh water with a lower temperature is associated with the rainy season and the beginning of spawning.

If you breed fish in your tasks is not included, it is better not to risk and equalize the parameters.

For sea fish, it is definitely necessary to equalize the temperature of the water, since sea water does not have sharp changes.

For all living creatures, including fish, the most important condition for existence is the ambient temperature. It affects not only the environment, but also the chemical and biological processes that take place in animals and plants.

As for aquariums, there should be about the same temperature in all layers, otherwise both plants and fish can suffer. Since the top layer of water is always higher than the bottom, therefore, the temperature should be measured not only on the surface of the water, but also on the ground. The regulator of the temperature of the water in the aquarium can be purchased at the store, and you can make it yourself, but you cannot do without it when breeding fish.

Because some temperature changes for many fish species can be deadly.

There are no specific numbers to suit each aquarium, as the temperature depends on factors such as its inhabitants, plants, and the chosen maintenance mode. The temperature range for most fish is from 20 to 30 ° C, however, for each individual species of fish should maintain an optimal temperature.

So the best constant temperature range in an aquarium for guppies varies between 24-26 ° C, but some deviations are allowed – 23-28 ° C. At the same time, if the temperature drops below 14 ° C or rises above 33 ° C, then the fish will not survive.

For catfish, the temperature in the aquarium is optimal in the range from 18 to 28 ° C. However, catfish – unpretentious fish, so easily withstand significant deviations from these limits, but for a short time.

The temperature in the aquarium for scalar basically has a large range. The optimum is 22-26 ° С, but they will easily transfer the temperature drop to 18 ° С, but it is necessary to lower gradually, without sharp drops.

The optimum temperature in the aquarium for swordtails is 24-26 ° C, but since these fish are not demanding enough, they will calmly endure a temporary decrease to 16 ° C.

The recommended temperature in the aquarium for cichlids should be in the range of 25-27 ° C. Sometimes it can be increased by 1-2 degrees, but no more, since for most fish of this species the temperature of 29 ° C is fatal. At the same time, a significant decrease in temperature even up to 14 ° С can be transferred by fish quite calmly (of course, not for a very long time).

The water temperature in the aquarium should be constant. Its fluctuations during the day are allowed within 2-4 ° С.

Sharper drops can have a devastating effect on the inhabitants of the aquarium.

Everyone knows that the temperature of the water in the aquarium corresponds to the temperature in the room. Therefore, when for some reason it becomes excessively hot or cold in the room, certain measures should be taken.

In the hot season you will need knowledge of how to lower the temperature in the aquarium. There are several ways to do this:

  • use of a special refrigerator for the aquarium;
  • installation of air conditioning in the room, which will maintain a certain temperature;
  • use of ice or cold accumulators.

In the case when it is too cold in your apartment during the cold season, you should know how to raise the temperature in the aquarium. The simplest version of the heater is a hot water heater.

It must be placed between the heater and the side wall of the aquarium. But this is an emergency way of heating water, as it will not work for a long time to maintain the temperature of the water.

Each of the ways to increase or decrease the temperature of the water is good in its own way, and you should choose a particular one based on your specific needs.

The life of all living organisms, including humans, is determined by a number of environmental factors. Among physical factors, temperature plays the greatest role, affecting the flow of all metabolic processes within an object.

That is why the observance of the correct temperature regime will provide your pet with comfort and long life.

The optimum temperature in an aquarium can vary within very wide limits for different organisms of even one family, therefore we cannot separate each one individually. But to discuss the temperature optimum for the most common inhabitants of aquariums, we are quite capable.

Temperature in a guppy aquarium

Guppies are not demanding fish and can easily live in a regular can, but for nurturing beautiful and healthy pets it is necessary to provide them with space and regular aeration of water. Regarding temperature, guppies are also labile, the range from 18 to 30 degrees is suitable for vital activity, but the optimum is 24-25 degrees.

The temperature of the water in the aquarium for the angelfish

Angelfish are warm-water fish, so the fact that for guppies is considered an extreme temperature for existence, for scalar still quite a pleasant atmosphere. Anyway, these cold-blooded fish are most active at 28 degrees, while at 24-25 their growth and development begins to slow.

Temperature in a cichlid aquarium

Cichlids are very sensitive to temperature fluctuations. As a result of hypothermia or overheating, they not only stop the development, but also lose the opportunity to develop their remarkable color, which is why the temperature in the aquarium for such fish should be a constantly adjustable parameter.

The optimum is 25-27 degrees, but for Tanganyik cichlids, this temperature should not exceed 26.

The temperature in the aquarium for barbs

Barbus – fish is simple to keep. Barbs are easy to feed, breed and maintain conditions optimal for their existence.

The optimum can be considered the temperature in the range from 21 to 26 degrees, while it is desirable that the water is well aerated and there was a slight flow.

Temperature in a catfish aquarium

More than 1000 species of fish from different families are called somami, therefore it is not easy to determine a single temperature range. Usually, catfish love temperatures closer to room temperature. in the range of 22-25 degrees.

For stimulation of reproduction, the temperature is usually increased by 2-3 degrees.

Ichthyophthiriosis is an infectious disease of fish caused by the attack of an equally effective infusorian ichthyophthyrus.

The disease is manifested by the appearance on the body of a small fish of small tubercles up to 1 mm in size. The number of bumps is growing every day of illness.

This disease is also called – semolina, as the aquarium fish, as if sprinkled with semolina. Some novice aquarists call these hillocks: dots, bubbles, specks.

However, these are the bumps – the place from where the ciliate parasites come out. Read more about the life cycle of the parasite on our forum – HERE.

Immediate treatment is necessary, otherwise the ciliates will deplete the fish and it will die.

photo Ichthyophthyriosis semolina Goldfish – Voilehvost

For a crushing victory and successful treatment of ichthyophtiriosis, two things need to be known:

1. The life cycle of the infusoria parasite.

I will not bore you with a thorough description of the life of ciliates:) …. I can only say that when a parasite gets into the body of a fish, it leaves it in 1-2 weeks (forming a hillock – semolina). Falling to the bottom is fastened and breeds into thousands of larvae, which are beginning to look for a new prey.

2. Given the knowledge of the life of the parasite. We must make his life cycle unbearable.

And it is very easy to do …
INCREASE THE TEMPERATURE OF AQUARIUM WATER AT 2-4 DEGREES (optimally 30-32 degrees). + ALWAYS INCREASE THE INTENSITY OF AERATION.
What gives rise to the temperature of the aquarium water?
First, the life cycle of the parasite is accelerated, which means that it “goes” and dies faster. And second, as the temperature increases, the immune system of the fish itself is activated, which allows it to more effectively fight the disease with its own resources.

In the initial stages of ichthyophthiriosis, a temperature increase may be sufficient … after a couple of days, the enemy is defeated. But, for greater confidence in the aquarium water, you need to add a dose (see on the package) of tripaflavin or bicillin-5 (the old-time method). You can use more modern treatments for semolina, for example:

TetraMedica Contralck – Contract (best, recommended).

Sera Costapur – Kostapur (analogue of TM Sulfur).

TetraMedica GoldOomed – (from ichthyophthiriosis, especially for Goldfish, universally).

These drugs do an excellent job.

However, one should always remember about “secondary infections” – that is, about the diseases that follow the main infection. Additionally, it is recommended to use other drugs leveling secondary diseases (fungal or bacterial infections).

For example, the Sera Brand, recommends using Sera ectopur (ectopur) together with Sera Costapur to prevent and combat fungus and ectoparasites. Methylene blue can also be used as a preparation for a secondary infection.

On the line of aquarium drugs, read the article: DRUGS AND AIR CONDITIONERS “TETRA”
ALL DRUGS AND CONDITIONERS OF SERA
ALL DRUGS PREPARATIONS OF THE FIRM “ZOOMIR”

In the future, I recommend to be more attentive to pets! Because parasite infusoria, often falls into the water and develops due to: low temperatures, stress of fish, mud, is brought from unchecked sources, without quarantine of new fish, etc.

P.S. Ichthyophthyroidism of fish is very similar to oodinimosis, which is also caused by infusoria, but the other is caused by flagellates. With this infection, the body of the fish is covered with monkey sand and has greyish, tiny nodules.

Which, in the neglected case, form a solid gray cover. The fish is exfoliated skin. Oodinium disease is actually treated in the same way as ichthyophthyrosis.

Specialist. drug for oodiniumosis – Sera oodinopur. Proportions and dosage of therapeutic agents, see. AQUA MEDICINE.

Neon fish care breeding description photo compatibility.

Neon pet aquariums do not differ in the complexity of care, and to overcome this simple science by the forces of the most unsophisticated aquarist. The most comfortable temperature for fish is from 18 to 23 ° C.

A higher temperature indicator of aquarium water provokes accelerated aging of the pet’s body, which may cause it to die without producing offspring.

The diet of neons should be varied, with a partial entry of dry live food and:

  • bloodworm;
  • a pipemaker;
  • small varieties of daphnia;
  • finished dry food;
  • semolina;
  • gruel, consisting of lettuce leaves, duckweed and spinach leaves.

It should be borne in mind that fish obesity inhibits their reproduction, and therefore, feeding should not be frequent. It is enough once a day with one fasting day a week.

The aquarium fish neon blue or ordinary (lat. Paracheirodon innesi) has long been known and very popular.

His appearance in 1930, he created a sensation and did not lose popular until our days. A flock of blue neons in an aquarium creates a fascinating look that can not leave indifferent. Perhaps, beauty with neon, can not argue any other fish from tetr, nor similar black neon, nor cardinal, nor erythrosonus. And besides beauty, nature gave neons a more peaceful disposition and high adaptability, that is, he did not need any special care.

These factors made him so popular.

This small tetra is an active schooling fish. They feel most comfortable in a flock of 6 individuals, it is in it that the brightest colors are revealed. Neons are very peaceful and desirable inhabitants of common aquariums, but they need to be maintained only with medium-sized and equally peaceful fish.

Small size and peaceful disposition, bad helpers against predatory fish!

Best of all, blue neons look in densely planted aquariums with dark soil. You can also add snags to the aquarium to create the look most similar to the one in which they live in nature. The water should be soft, slightly acidic, fresh and clean.

Neons live about 3-4 years under good conditions in the aquarium.

In the right conditions and with good care, aquarium neon fish are fairly disease resistant. But, nevertheless, like all fish, they can get sick, even there is a disease of aquarium fish, called neon disease or plytiphorosis.

It is expressed in blanching the color of the fish and further death, because, unfortunately, it is not treated.

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