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Water for aquarium fish

maintenance, care, compatibility

Water is the source of life and habitat of all marine and freshwater creatures. Under natural conditions, animals feel comfortable mostly in clean water.

In such water, they can grow and multiply. At home, everything is different.

Many people prefer to start aquarium fish, but not all care about the proper quality of water for the aquarium. The use of ordinary tap water can be detrimental to its inhabitants.

Therefore, there are several simple rules for preparing water for an aquarium.

What kind of water to pour into the aquarium?

Fish and other inhabitants of the aquarium should not be run in fresh water. It is fraught with diseases in animals. Various chemical compounds that are in the usual for us water, are detrimental to the inhabitants of the aquarium.

Chlorine is especially dangerous. Water, without fail, must be separated.

How much to defend the water for the aquarium?

To finally get rid of all the harmful substances contained in the water, it must be defended for 1-2 weeks. For the backlog of water is better to use a large bucket or basin. Also, when buying a new aquarium, leave water in it and drain it at least once.

At the same time, this way you can check if the aquarium is leaking. Some pet stores sell special products that neutralize chemical compounds in water.

But experts recommend not to neglect the settling of water, even using these drugs.

Aquarium water temperature

The most suitable temperature for aquarium water is room – 23-26 degrees. In winter, the aquarium should not be carried out on the balcony, nor is it recommended to place it near the radiator or heater.

Water hardness in the aquarium

Stiffness is an important parameter of water in an aquarium. This parameter is determined by the total amount of calcium and magnesium salts that are dissolved in water.

The range of water hardness is very wide. Under natural conditions, this indicator depends on climate, soil and season.

Fish can live in water of different hardness, but they are extremely necessary for magnesium and calcium salts – they play an important role in the growth and reproduction of animals.

In an aquarium, the hardness of the water is constantly changing, it becomes softer – the fish digest the salts that are in the water. Therefore, the water in the aquarium should be periodically changed.

Aquarium water purification

The easiest way to clean is a complete change of water in the aquarium. But in some cases this task is difficult and unnecessary. Water is much easier to clean.

As a rule, simple filters based on activated carbon are used to purify turbid water in an aquarium. Water filters in the aquarium can be made independently or purchased at a pet store.

Aeration of water in the aquarium

This parameter is regulated by temperature, plants and the presence of living things in the aquarium. By aeration, oxygen is monitored in the aquarium. Aeration can be performed using special devices – compressors that saturate water with oxygen.

Also, there are filters for water treatment with built-in compressors. Water parameters in the aquarium play an important role in the normal functioning of fish.

It is important that any of the parameters be changed very smoothly, excluding sudden temperature fluctuations.

By following these simple rules, each owner of the aquarium provides fish with conditions as close as possible to the natural ones. And this, in turn, is the key to the health and long life of pets.

How to prepare water for the aquarium at home

As you know, all the fish and not only breed at a certain temperature of the aquatic environment. Heat mimics the rainy season, climate change, and the time of year, serves as a signal for finding a pair and spawning.

All types of fish, snails, amphibians and reptiles live in different water temperatures. Also, residents of home nurseries are divided into two types – cold-loving and heat-loving.

Heat-loving – those who live at a temperature not lower than 18-20 degrees Celsius, while cold-loving people are able to live in cool water (14-18 degrees and lower). The latter live only in spacious reservoirs, where there is a slow and cool undercurrent.

Heat-loving species in cold water behave sluggishly, motionless, begin to ache.

Starting the preparation of water for the aquarium, consult with experts, or ask for help from the specialist literature. For each pet requires optimal water temperature, so only compatible animals need to settle in one tank with identical parameters (heat-loving people are not settled with cold-loving, herbivores and predators are kept in separate nurseries, large and small are settled separately). In accordance with all parameters (permissible threshold of temperature, acidity, hardness), the acquired living creatures inhabit the aquarium.

You should also take into account the conditions of the content of plants in the water, they are important specified parameters of the aquatic environment. Comfortable neighborhood will provide proper care and living conditions.

See how to prepare water for an aquarium.

Reduce stiffness by filtering and infusing. Sometimes, infused water (time – 2 days) from the tap add distilled, thawed or rain water. Plants such as roach and elodiea, reduce stiffness.

There is another way – freezing. The collected water is frozen, and then thawed, defended and poured into the tank.

Increases the rigidity of the aquarium water by adding brine, pieces of chalk or limestone, coral chips to it. Coral crumb is recommended to boil (2 hours) to soften and prevent parasites.

Only after all the procedures it is lowered into the tank.

It is better to run the fish in a day or two, until the water has acquired the necessary parameters. The temperature of the water in which the purchased fish, animals and plants lived should be identical to the aquarium.

Again, use a thermometer, litmus paper to test. Do not neglect the recommendations that the life of pets was healthy and safe, because when kept in poor-quality aquatic environment, they may suffer.

Water change in the aquarium, what kind of water is needed for the aquarium?

(water preparation)

Let’s talk about the questions asked in order:
In order for chlorine to evaporate and a 24-hour excess of dissolved oxygen will be enough to keep the tap water. The maximum water for the aquarium defend 14 days.

This should be done in a bowl with a wide neck.

I note that in pet stores sold a large number of specials. preparations for adaptation of tap water (for example, AquaSafe from the Tetra series, etc.). In addition, these drugs have additional additives that improve the quality of aquarium water.

I strongly recommend using them.

Frequently asked questions: About changing aquarium water, for example, is it possible to replace aquarium water (1/4 volume) with undisturbed tap water?

– Nothing bad can happen (one thing, but: it should be about the same temperature as in the aquarium, do not pour ice water from the tap). But still, if you are a caring owner or fish are expensive … Do not be lazy to defend the water.

When changing aquarium water, always remember that old water is always better than fresh water. In many sources, they talk about the need to replace the weekly aquarium water to fresh. Personally, I disagree with that.

Since the older the aquarium water, the better it is configured biological balance. I replace the aquarium water in my aquariums about once a month and I think that this is quite enough.

For ten years aquarium management “complaints” from aquarium fish on this issue have been reported.

Making conclusions and summing up, I emphasize:

– Frequent change of aquarium water is not needed!

– The frequency of changing the aquarium water to fresh depends on the volume of your aquarium. The larger the aquarium, the less need to replace the aquarium water.

– The change of aquarium water can be done with undisturbed water (up to 1/5 parts). But not desirable. )))

– The clouding of aquarium water after a fresh substitution is a direct evidence of an imbalance in the aquarium. (clouding will pass by itself, in 3-5 days).

– Answering the question what kind of water is needed for an aquarium and fish? I will say, the “old” is better than the “new”. If the water is green, dirty or muddy – use aquarium coal and other specials. drugs.

In addition, consider the specifics of your fish. For example, discus – very picky to the conditions of detention and require frequent replacement of the new “super quality water” and high temperature.

– Carrying out a complete change of aquarium water (restarting the aquarium), pour into the container and leave at least 1/3 of the old water. Exception, disease and quarantine aquarium!

– Changing the aquarium water should follow the “cleaning of the aquarium”, and not vice versa.

I recommend also to read the article. AQUARIUM WATER from which you will learn about the qualitative components of aquarium water and methods for balancing them in the home.

Video about changing the water in the aquarium:
Aquarium for beginners
Aquarium water temperature
Boiled thawed or distilled water for aquarium.
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Normal tap water for aquarium is not suitable. It needs to be prepared. Thus, the preparation of water begins with a banal sedimentation.

To begin with, it is necessary to pour water into any container with the help of a shower. In this case, the shower will help get rid of a certain amount of harmful substances that are contained in tap water, and may not have the best effect on the health of the fish. Using a shower also makes it possible to understand whether it is worthwhile to use tap water on a certain day to fill the aquarium, or it is better to postpone this event to another time.

The fact is that with the use of the shower, it is possible to determine whether the chlorine content in the water is exceeded on any given day. It is no secret that every day in tap water contains a completely different amount of impurities. As a rule, it depends on the season, weather conditions, etc.

If you feel a strong smell of chlorine, then this water for the aquarium is better not to use or use after treatment with special dechlorinating agents. AQUAYER AntiToxin Vita makes water safe for fish by eliminating chlorine even in high concentrations.

The use of tap water to fill the aquarium is also due to the fact that it has the acidity necessary for the normal development of fish and plants (PH = 7). This is an active reaction characterizing the alkaline and acidic environment of water.

This reaction is determined using paper indicators that can be purchased at any pet store.
If the PH level is lowered, you can use regular soda to increase it. To lower the PH used peat, not collected on a hill.

Distilled water can be used to fill the aquarium. You can buy it in an ordinary pharmacy. However, this method of filling the aquarium is suitable only if the aquarium is small.

Many experts still do not recommend the use of distilled water, because it lacks minerals that are useful for the abodes of the aquarium.

There is also an option to use water from another aquarium (if there is one), in which biological balance has already been established for the favorable living of the fish.

Water temperature for the aquarium plays a crucial role. It depends on the health and ability of fish to breed. For each species of fish, a completely different water temperature is suitable.

Conventionally, all the inhabitants of the aquarium can be divided into heat-loving and cold-loving.

By heat-loving include fish living in the water, the temperature of which is not below 18 degrees. Cold fishes are individuals that easily adapt to low temperatures.

They can safely live in the aquarium, the temperature in which, will not exceed 14 degrees. The maintenance of cold-loving fish is possible only in large and spacious aquariums.

It is noteworthy that if the heat-loving fish are planted in cold water, then they practically stop swimming. This suggests that significant damage has been done to their health.

Preparing water for the aquarium, you should use the tips for beginners, which can be found in the special literature. So, it is possible to choose the optimum temperature for water only after it becomes known exactly which species of fish will live in it.

The thing is that in the literature for each type of fish is given the permissible threshold of the highest and lowest temperatures at which the fish will feel comfortable. In accordance with these parameters, you can choose the future inhabitants of the aquarium so that they all feel comfortable in the same temperature conditions.

This will avoid a huge number of problems associated with the maintenance and care of the fish.

Aquarium water that has a certain temperature can stimulate spawning. This applies to elevated water temperatures. However, this is not always useful for fish.

So, the fish that spawn, you should not constantly keep in such conditions. Otherwise, to get offspring from them in the future will be simply impossible.

Thus, when harvesting water for an aquarium, it is better to ensure that it is one degree below the norm.

How to make the water prepared for the aquarium was not too hard?

One of the most important components of the aquarium world is water, as the habitat of aquarium fish and plants.

The parameters of the aquarium water, its characteristics directly affect the well-being of your pets and the state of the plants. It is no secret that dirty, muddy water ruins the fish, spoils the appearance of the aquarium, however, the clear water does not always mean that its composition is perfect.

The main parameters and indicators of the quality of aquarium water are:

– Aquarium water hardness (hD);

– Hydrogen indicator of water “Acidity of aquarium water” (pH);

– Redox potential (rH);

AQUARIUM WATER HARDNESS (hD) – due to the presence of soluble calcium and magnesium salts in water. Their concentration in aquarium water is the GENERAL HARDNESS, which can be divided into TEMPORARY – CARBONATE and PERMANENT – NON-CARBONATE.

The temporary hardness of aquarium water (CN) is the concentration of bicarbonate salts of calcium and magnesium, formed from weak, unstable carbonic acid. Such rigidity can vary during the day. For example, in the daytime, aquarium plants during photosynthesis absorb carbon dioxide that accumulates in the water.

If carbon dioxide is not enough for consumption by plants, they will start to produce it from the bicarbonate composition, as a result of which the temporary hardness of the water will decrease.

The constant hardness of aquarium water (GH) is the presence of stable calcium and magnesium salts formed from strong acids — hydrochloric, sulfuric, or nitric.

Water hardness is essential for the life of the aquarium world. Firstly, calcium and magnesium salts are used in the construction of the skeleton and have an impact on the construction of the whole fish organism.

For different types of aquarium fish, the indicators of water hardness are different and failure to comply with them can lead to a deterioration of the health of the fish, a violation of the function of reproduction and fertilization of eggs.

The total hardness of the aquarium water is measured in German degrees (hD). 1 ° hD is 10 mg of calcium oxide in 1 liter of water.

Aquarium water with hardness parameters:

from 1 to 4 ° hD – is considered very soft;

from 4 to 8 ° hD – is considered soft;

from 8 to 12 ° hD – average hardness;

from 12 to 30 ° hD – considered to be very tough;

Most aquarium fish feel comfortable with hardness of 3-15 ° hD.

How to change the rigidity of the aquarium water:

1.) Increase stiffness.

– KH hardness can be increased by adding 1 tsp of baking soda to 50 liters, which will increase the performance by 4 ° dKH.

– 2 teaspoons of calcium carbonate to 50 liters of water at the same time will increase KH and GH by 4 degrees.

– Another measure for a smooth / gradual increase in water hardness is scattering and decorating the aquarium with seashells.

2.) Reducing stiffness (everything is more complicated here):

– use / add distilled water, which is sold in stores;

– use / add rain, snow, melt water from the refrigerator (must be clean, without turbidity and impurities).

– filter the water through an osmotic filter;

– filter water through peat (peat is added to the filter) or into a tank where water is settled;

– KN hardness is reduced by boiling water in an enamel pot for 1 hour, followed by settling for 24 hours;

– The natural water softeners are fast-growing plants: healer, hornpole, nayas, wallisneria.

HOW TO MEASURE the overall hardness of aquarium water at home without any specials. equipment and preparations (sample titration with soap solution):

The peculiarity of this method is that 10 mg of calcium oxide in 1 liter of water is neutralized with 0.1 g. clean soap.

1. 60-72% of household soap is taken, crumbled.

2. In a measuring cup (or other measuring vessel), water is poured (distilled, snowy, water melted from the refrigerator) – then distillate.

3. Soap powder (counted in grams) is added to the water so that it is possible to calculate the portion small in the resulting solution.

4. Pour 0.5 liters of the tested aquarium water into another dish and gradually add portions of the soap solution (0.1 gr.), Shake.

At first, gray flakes and quickly disappearing bubbles appear on the surface of the water. Gradually adding portions of the soap solution, we are waiting for all the calcium and magnesium oxide to contact – stable soap bubbles will appear on the surface of the water with a characteristic rainbow overflow.

This experience is over. Now we count the number of consumed soap portions, multiply them by two (the aquarium water was 0.5 liters, not 1 liter.). The resulting number will be the rigidity of the aquarium water in degrees.

For example, 5 servings of soap * 2 = 10 ° hD.

With careful experience, the error can be + -1 ° hD.

When obtaining a stiffness result of more than 12 ° hD, the measurement accuracy decreases, it is recommended that the experiment be re-diluted with aquarium water with 50% distillate, double the result.

Hydrogen indicator of water or “aquarium water acidity” (pH of aquarium water).

Determines the neutral, acidic and alkaline reaction of water at a certain concentration of hydrogen ions.

In chemically pure water, electrolytic dissociation occurs – the decomposition of molecules into hydrogen ions (H +) and hydroxyl (OH-), the number of which in it at 25 ° C is always the same and equals 10-7 g * ion / l. Such water is neutral. The negative logarithm of the concentration of hydrogen ions is conventionally used to designate the pH value and in this case is equal to 7. If there are acids in the water (not chemically pure water), the amount of hydrogen ions will be more than hydroxyl – the water becomes acidic with a lower digital pH.

Conversely, hydroxyl ions will dominate in alkaline water and the pH will increase.

Aquarium water with pH parameters:

– from 1 to 3 is called / considered strongly acidic;

– from 5-6 slightly acidic;

PH parameters can change during the day, due to the variable concentration of carbon dioxide in aquarium water, which in turn is stabilized by constant aeration.

Sharp pH fluctuations are harmful and painful for aquarium fish and plants. Most aquarium fish prefer a pH of 5.5 to 7.5.

HOW TO CHANGE the pH of aquarium water:

– If it is necessary to lower the pH – acidify the water with peat extract (well, or special preparations from the Pet Shop);

– If you need to increase the pH (strengthen alkalinity) – use baking soda;

MEASURING the pH of aquarium water:

1. In many pet stores sold – testers (litmus paper with phenolphthalein). Actually following the instructions on the package and on the scale, you can determine the pH parameters.

2. There are specials. measuring device – PiAshmeter. For home aquariums is not used (expensive, and why not at all). After all, the main thing is not frequent measurement of pH parameters, but conditions of keeping fish and aquarium.

In a well-kept, not overcrowded aquarium, not clogged to the top with plants, with aeration – the pH will always be normal and often it is not necessary to measure.

Redox potential (rH of water, ORP of water).

The essence of the redox process in aquarium water is that all substances in it react with each other. In this case, one substance gives up its electrons and charges positively (oxidizes), and the other acquires electrons and charges negatively (being restored). As a result, a difference in electrical potentials arises between different-sized substances.

Simply put: oxidation – this is the reaction of nitrite with oxygen, and recovery – on the contrary, the breakdown of nitrites with the release of oxygen.

The maximum oxidative potential of water is 42rH.

rH 40-42 – maximum oxidation (pure oxygen);

rH 35 – strong oxidation;

rH 30 – slight oxidation;

rH 25 – weak oxidation;

rH 20 – weak recovery;

rH 15 –significant recovery;

rH 10 – strong recovery;

rH 5-0 – maximum reduction (pure hydrogen);

Almost all aquarium fish and plants feel comfortable with rH 25-35. Some species prefer narrower parameters of this value.

Measured by rH special gauges.

Increase the rH of water by regularly changing the water, leaving it to clean the aquarium, as well as purging the air and using ozone.


We have learned about the basic parameters of aquarium water, the observance of which will be an absolute guarantee of the health of fish and the beauty of plants.

There are other values ​​/ parameters characterizing aquarium water. However, they are not as significant as hD and pH. To maintain a home aquarium to know and follow them is simply not necessary.

As Sherlock Holmes said: “… a sensible person carefully selects what he places in his brain attic.”

OPTIMAL PARAMETERS OF AQUAREMOUS WATER (hD of water, pH of water, ORP of water) I ATHERENTLY REACH THE BANAL CARE OF THE AQUARIUM AND FOLLOWING THE RULES OF THE CONTENT OF ITS RESIDENTS: do not make a dormitory out of the aquarium, do not overload it with plants, provide aeration and filtering;

See also:
CHANGE OF WATER IN THE AQUARIUM! WHAT WATER IS NEEDED FOR THE AQUARIUM? How much water should be defended for the aquarium?
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Muddy water in an aquarium with fish is perhaps the most common problem that concerns both beginners and experienced aquarists. Through trial and error, we have to figure out why muddy water appeared so quickly.

The causes of this phenomenon can be different, ranging from a bacterial outbreak, improper feeding and irregular water renewal. A number of factors may also be the source of this problem.

When the elimination or elimination of the causative agent of water turbidity in an aquarium occurs quickly, then the biological balance in the water is fully restored.

Sometimes this trouble provokes the death of fish, plants and invisible microorganisms. The first thing to do is to find out why the water becomes cloudy quickly.

The second is to gradually eliminate the shortcomings.

Why is the aquarium water quickly dimmed if the tank is equipped with a filter? The main problem is that on the very first day of the launch of the aquarium there is no holistic and permanent biological environment. The so-called “bacterial explosion” is caused by an active increase in the number of unicellular microorganisms, which are constantly multiplying.

In this case, the fish should not be settled, it is better to do it on another day. When microflora equilibrates in the tank, then the water will become crystal clear.

Nothing serious needs to be done – this sediment will pass by itself. If you decide to change the water – it will again become muddy and unfit for life.

For 4-7 days the aquatic environment is fully restored, you can run plants and fish into it. To speed up the process, you can add water after the old aquarium with “residential” water.

Another common problem with the rapid turbidity of water in an aquarium is poor filtration of the reservoir. It should be well thought out system of purification, and this should be done quickly, until the young fish and did not have time to get used to a new house.

A bad filter does not allow bits of dirt, feces, food debris, provoking the formation of decomposition products. Such rotten water constantly stinks and can cause diseases.

Watch a video about filtering water in an aquarium.

Why still water quickly becomes cloudy? If it has become an unpleasant green color, dimmed in a short time – it means that microscopic blue-green algae develop in it, which lead to the flowering of the reservoir.

With good development of organic and strong light, they make themselves felt on the fifth day. When the light is not enough, cyanobacteria will acquire a brown color and begin to rot.

Green color of the liquid with muddy, unpleasant smell – signs of growth of blue-green algae.

If frequent water changes, the growth of bacteria and algae provoked the appearance of muddy water in the aquarium, some steps should be taken to eliminate the problem.

  1. If your aquarium is overpopulated, place the fish in different tanks, where they would be comfortable and spacious.
  2. If there is an excess of light, shade the aquarium by setting it in a secluded corner where strong lighting does not go.
  3. If the water becomes cloudy the next day after the first feeding, make a bottom siphon and feed the fish in small portions.
  4. Settle snails and fish in an aquarium that eat leftover food, clean glass and water in a tank. After a few days, the water will become free of dirt, and will not require additional replacement.

Wrong settlement of fish as a reason for the rapid turbidity of water

Full replacement of water is required only in the rarest cases, for example, with general quarantine or water poisoning. Why not do this procedure often? Because the day after the complete substitution, you will notice how the water turned cloudy again.

A significant loss of its volume is stress for all inhabitants of the reservoir. Even during the death of some fish do not replace the water.

But there are a number of recommendations, after studying which it is possible to understand why substitutions are necessary.

  • Substitutions are necessary after the introduction of pathogenic microorganisms;
  • Replacements are required after visible flowering of the reservoir;
  • Urgent water changes are necessary when a fungal mucus is detected;
  • Refresh water is required due to severe soil contamination.

You can add water to the tank as it evaporates, but not more than 20-30% of the total volume. It is best to update 1/5 of the aquarium once a week. After the procedure, the biocenosis will recover in 2 days.

With the replacement of water cleaned the glass from plaque, remove debris from the bottom, clean snags and decorations.

It is better to plan a water change for both small and large reservoirs in advance. Type in a glass tank water from the tap, and leave it for a few days, covered with gauze.

Chlorine and gas will evaporate, the liquid will be safe for fish. And it should be remembered that in the first week of operation of the aquarium the water is not changed until an ecosystem is formed in it.

My two-year experience in administering an aquarium forum allows me at this stage to draw certain conclusions about the treatment of aquarium fish.
In this article, I would like to discuss all aspects and nuances of treating a sick pet. The purpose of the article is to give the basic basics to beginners, and to many experienced aquarists – WHAT TO DO IF FISHES ARE DISEASE.

This article will not be a revelation and a panacea, I will, in principle, talk about simple and understandable things, but still, in my opinion, it is in them that the key to the health of both fish and the aquarium as a whole lies.
To begin, let’s see why and from what the fish are sick. Fish – these are the same living creatures as we are with you. Any living thing will feel good and not get sick when it is in a comfortable environment.

People go to fitness clubs, go to a sanatorium, try to live in comfort, eat the right and healthy food, breathe fresh, clean air and this is a guarantee of their health and longevity.
The same applies to fish, they will always be healthy and you will not have to treat them if they live in comfort, i.e. in a healthy, full, proper aquarium. With a certainty of 120%, I can say that in a healthy aquarium with a tuned biobalance, no aquarium fish will get sick.
So, we have established the root cause of all troubles – the “bad aquarium”. What is it expressed in? There are many factors that characterize the concept of “bad aquarium”:
– this is both overpopulation and the wrong selection of fish;
– these are inappropriate parameters of aquarium water for one or another fish species (t, pH, dH, kH, etc.);
– this is also inadequate water quality, i.e. the presence of poisons in it: ammonia, nitrite and nitrate;
– This may be expressed in the wrong decoration of the aquarium;
– in defective or poor quality lighting;
– in the end, in the wrong care for the aquarium: feeding, water changes, etc .;
If you summarize all these negative factors, you can simply say: there is no in an aquarium BIOBALANCE – BIOLOGICAL EQUILIBRIUM.
Now, based on the above, let’s see what happens to the body of a fish in such negative conditions. And the same thing happens as with you and us – the protective mechanisms are activated. Depending on the damaging factor in fish, this can manifest itself in different ways, for example:
– in case of overpopulation or the wrong selection of fish, they begin to fight, stress or depressed state appears;
– at elevated temperatures or lack of oxygen, the fish begin to swim near the surface, puff up the gills, and greedily swallow air. Again, stress, lethargy, “fainting.”
– in the presence of poisons in the water, the defense mechanisms of habituation also work in fish.
Due to what work – these protective mechanisms? The answer is also simple – due to immunity. Which, as you understand, is not rubber.

And when it ends, the fish organism ceases to resist all pathogens and / or negative factors. There comes a phase of the disease.

Pud salt in the aquarium – how much salt to add to the aquarium?

Ordinary kitchen salt is used in the aquarium world mainly for the treatment of sick fish. With the help of salt, such fish diseases as chylodonellosis, trichodinosis, tetrachimenosis, oodiniumosis, apiosis, are treated.

In this case, the fish do either individual salt baths or add salt to the general aquarium.

In the treatment of fish in the general aquarium it is better to use rock salt. Salt solution is prepared at the rate of 1-1.5 tsp. Of salt per 10 l. aquarium water.

Salt fish treatment is carried out at a water temperature of 27 to 31C. The filter is not disabled.

Water is replaced in the usual manner.

For the treatment of fish in separate baths is recommended 1 tablespoon salt per 10l. aquarium water. To treat the fish in separate baths is a pain, but it seems to me that this method of treatment is much better tolerated by the fish, because the effect of salt is brief.

. Side effects. from the salt of the fish “ylozit” – they are spinning, rushing, etc., besides the fish begin to breathe heavily.

Therefore, I advise you to carefully carry out such procedures. It is better to make the solution weaker, especially if the treatment is gentle, small or weak fish.

Tip: Do not repot the fish immediately after the salt bath in the general aquarium (this will only harm you). Gradually add clean water to a state of “low salt”, and then sit down on a bastard.

With the treatment of salt figured out … you can add only that a weak solution of simple salt can also be used for the prevention of diseases of the fish. Especially if there are suspicions that, for example, new fish are contagious.

It is worth adding that some species of fish love salted water. Each species of such fish has its own salinity preferences.

For example, tetradon likes 1 tablespoon of salt per 10 liters of water.

And of course, there is a special aquarium salt for the saltwater aquarium and saltwater-loving saltwater fish, but that’s another story …

ADDITION: Salt, sea – antiseptic and fungicidal agent. For many years, it has been used as a generally available and quite effective remedy for the treatment of many types of bacterial and some parasitic diseases of aquarium fish, and also as a prophylactic agent for keeping many species of live-bearing tooth-toothed ones. Applied for the prevention of fungal and bacterial infections.

It is useful (in combination with elevated temperature) from many ectoparasites (skin and gill flukes), ichthyophthiriuses, in case of problems with the mucous membrane, decay, accidental damage to the skin and fungi. It is better to use coarse ground rock salt, cubed and crystalline sea salt, but only without any additives. You can not use iodized salt!

Applied to treat Branhiomikoza, Gioza, gyrodactylosis, dactylogyrosis, Diplozoonoza, Kostioza, Kolumnarioza, Lepidortoza, Plistoforoza, Saprolegnioza, Sangvinikoza, ich, Hilodonelleza, Tetraonhoza, Trihodinioza and ectoparasites.
An increase in the salinity of the water causes additional mucus in the fish, which helps to eliminate minor infectious lesions. Some species of fish are well tolerated by salt (zhivorodki, East African cichlids, iris), Some species of fish, primarily haratsinovye and somovidnye, fighting and some invertebrate salt baths can not stand. For most representatives of the genera Corydoras, Thoracatum, Dianema, Brochis and Aspidoras, the maximum concentration is 1-2 grams per liter.

It is especially harmful to arrange them long baths in the general aquarium with low salt concentrations. Ancistrus and other loricarides treat calmly with salt.

Sumatran barbers do not like salt. Care should be treated with salt young labyrinth fish.

Do not use salt in common ornamental aquariums with plants. Higher aquatic plants do not like high concentrations of sodium ions and chlorine, but the algae, which so maliciously spoil the entire design, they do not interfere with reproduction without measure. Regular addition of salt to the aquarium leads to water salinization. At the end of the treatment, the water in the aquarium is replaced in 2-3 doses.

I want to once again draw the attention of readers to the need for an accurate selection of the concentration of saline. Guaranteed to kill all evil 4-5% solution, but a rare aquarium fish will hold on for even 1-2 minutes, not to mention the minimum required 5 minutes. But even 1.5-1.7% solution has a significant therapeutic effect.

He is able to move almost all the fish within 10-15 minutes. With the urgent need for it, you can buy somics. As a rule, 2% solution is optimal (bathing time 10 minutes).

Watch fish very carefully. If they start to push out of the water, they lie on the surface on their side and cannot go down, then the procedure must be urgently stopped.

During bathing the tank with fish should be moderately aerated.
The temperature of the water should be raised in 2-3 days to 28-30 ° C with enhanced aeration. Dose 1-2gr. salts per liter for prevention, and for ingrained fungal and bacterial infections 10 g / l – this concentration is gradually achieved over 2 days, increasing every 4-6 hours by 0.1%.

For the treatment of juvenile weakened fish, a less concentrated solution is used. If the fish begin to feel bad, you should immediately dilute the aquarium water with fresh distilled water.

Treatment lasts 10-30 days. Bathing dose of 10-15 g / lna 20 minutes.

Short salt baths are good for such diseases of aquarium fish as saprolegnosis, bone disease, oodiniumosis, chilodonellosis, trichodynosis, apiosomas, tetrachimenosis, gyrodactylosis, and dactylogyrosis. Specific means of dealing with them can be completely different, but rather high concentrations of salt kill them all. Salt is also used to neutralize nitrites, to combat the parasites Piscinoodinum and leeches.

Leeching can be achieved by using short-term baths in a 2.5% salt solution.
Comment: Despite the availability of modern specialized drugs, table salt is still widely used in aquarism. In small doses and in the absence of sensitive fish can be used in the general aquarium, in large doses should be treated in a separate container.

The acquisition, transfer and transportation of aquarium fish – the topic is very simple! Many Internet resources are trying to inflate a whole treatise from this question … although in essence it is only necessary to say something about a couple of three points that need to be taken into account.

Here they are:

1. Buying a fish …

– evaluate its appearance and state of health (color intensity, absence of any sores, “not enough gnawing” of the fins, nimbleness and activity);

– Do not buy healthy fish if you swim near dead or sick, sluggish fish;

– buying fish from “Bird markets” is not desirable;

– when purchasing snails (Ampularia, etc.) do not take large specimens – the larger the snail, the older it will be, which means it will not live long in your aquarium;

2. Transplanting fish.

Having bought fish and transplanting them into your aquarium, you should create the most comfortable conditions for them and minimize stress.

– when carrying a fish from the store, make sure that it does not freeze (especially in winter);

– Do not plant the fish in your tank immediately. First, lower the package with the fish in the aquarium water, a little scoop water and for 15 minutes leave the package with the fish in hanging positions in the aquarium.

After that you can “pour out” the bag with the fish in your aquarium.

– It would be nice if you used anti-stress drugs (for example, Aquatife from the Tetra series) when you transplanted fish. Such a drug can be added to the package with fish and aquarium water;

– after transplanting the fish, try not to disturb it (turn off the backlight and do not feed the clock for the first time;

By the way, here is an illustrative photo-example of the “Rules for transplanting fish”
(which is depicted on the Tetra company packages)

3. Transportation of fish. With this question a little more difficult.

For long-term transportation of fish (for example, to another city to which a day, or even more than a ride) – you will need a stand-alone compressor (oxygen compressor on a battery). for example

Minjiang NS-7200
Cost 20 cu
(cheaper) Such aquarium compressors are sold at any pet store and supply oxygen at the expense of batteries. The cost of such compressors is much higher.

In addition, I recommend that you purchase the above-mentioned Aquasife – Aquasafe (or equivalent) and add it to the package with transported fish, it has soothing properties. In addition, O2 oxygen tablets are often sold in stores, which can be used for long-term transportation.

And another little secret – hydrogen peroxide, is an excellent “aerator” and, when in contact with water, it releases pure oxygen, it also needs to be used even for long-term transportation of aquatic fish. See more details – here.


We wish you a successful acquisition, transplanting and transportation of fish

We recommend to watch the video

about transplanting and transporting fish

Aquarium plants are all for beginners with photos and video

And finally, a few words about artificial aquarium plants. Once they are sold, once I buy them, it means they have a place to be in our reservoirs.

No trouble with them at all – I buried a plastic bush and admire! The benefits of such plants are zero, moreover, they grow well harmful algae.

And over time, plastic breaks down and becomes brittle! They cost more than living plants.

Nevertheless, such plastic aquarium plants, as an element of decor, look very much even in a pond.

Video – webinar “All the secrets of growing aquarium plants”
Start video from 54:43 minutes
and further,

Plants are an established aquarium biosystem, no harmful substances in the water, no algae.

Aquarian plants are a natural interior and “maternity hospital” for fish, fry, shrimps, snails, etc.

Plants are an additional food for aquarium inhabitants.

Many, starting to engage in an aquarium, think that the plants in the aquarium are unnecessary problems and concerns. However, it is not. Actually for the normal life of the plants in the aquarium, as well as for the fish, the main thing is to arrange everything.

In relation to plants, this is achieved by selecting the right soil, fertilizing with fertilizer and due to good lighting. That’s all!

Well, once a month you need to cut them, now everything is for sure. A little more detail on each of the above nuances.
PRIMING: The soil for plants is purely individual. Some plants do not need it at all, while others need a thick layer of soil.

In general, it can be said that the soil for plants should be from 3 to 5 centimeters thick and medium grain. It is this thickness (and more) that will allow the plants to take root well.

A newly planted plant can be slightly pressed with a pebble the size of a larger one, well, or pinned down with some decor, it is possible to tie the plant with a fishing line. A common mistake is to tie a lead weight plant to the horse system – this is not very good.

Yes, the plant does not float and it is difficult for fish to pull it out. But the lead is oxidized, and besides it prevents the roots of the plant from developing.

The same applies to other goods.

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