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Viviparous: how to properly maintain and propagate in the aquarium

Hello, dear aquarists. I find it difficult now to name another species of aquarium fish, which for several decades remained as popular as the family of viviparous.

Aquarists are always attracted by light conditions of maintenance, bright colors, as well as ease of reproduction both in the general aquarium and in a separate spawning ground.

Experienced aquarists love fish from this family because, by crossing and performing simple breeding surveys, you can get new forms that will differ from their predecessors in the shape of fins and color. Most wild species of the Pecilijevs have a beautiful color.

And watching the mating games and the appearance of fry is generally an attractive sight.

As a rule, almost all species of live beetles do not require any outstanding conditions of detention. To maintain a small flock of petsilievs, it is enough to acquire a 50-liter aquarium, in which it is recommended to plant a large number of aquarium plants.

Great for filling aquarium with vegetation Javanese moss, especially in those cases if you plan to breed your pets.

Only the fry born into the world initially sink to the bottom and hide in the moss, and after a while they will rise to the surface and will seek shelter among the floating vegetation. An excellent indicator of a healthy environment in an aquarium is a water fern.

If hydrogen sulfide does not accumulate in the ground and the water is clean, then the plant will stay near the bottom. If the aquarium is dirty, the fern will float to the surface.

Also a great indicator of a clean aquarium is ambulia, which grows and develops beautifully in a clear reservoir. In the dirty water, the ambulia begins to languish and disappears completely.

If you plan to breed viviparous, then I recommend acquiring an aquarium plant of Riccia, since this plant is a great haven for petsiliev fry. In the first days of their life, the fry feed in the thickets of riccia with infusoria and other small crustaceans.

This fact is especially important if you do not feed fish with live food. Also finely chopped Ricci, you can periodically feed grown-up young and more adult fish.

For the purification of aquarium water it is good to use shining and rootless wolf, which live-bearing beasts with a great desire. But in order not to kill the plant, it must be cultivated in a separate aquarium. In addition to the above plants, which are vital for an aquarium with viviparous, you can also use multi-seeded hygrophilus, cabombo, Brazilian peristis, nayas and limnofilu.

These plants perfectly complement the design of your aquarium.

If the water in your tank is slightly salty, then you can use cynical cryptocoryne or topniak as an ornamental plant. Why did I suddenly remember about the saltwater aquarium? The fact is that the majority of live beetles, in particular, some types of mollies and guppies, live both in freshwater bodies of water and in brackish water.

The only thing that remains to be questioned is the possibility of reproduction in salt water. But one thing is known, some types of mollies with large dorsal fins are much more common for researchers to see in the sea than in freshwater bodies of water.

Long-proven fact: young guppies are able to tolerate water salinity from 5 to 8 ppm, and juveniles two to three weeks old can generally survive in water with a salinity of 30 to 35. It is also a proven fact that guppies grow larger in salt water.

That is why breeders are attracted by experiments on the reproduction of viviparous in salt water.

As a rule, in many aquarium sources you can find the standard recommendation of the following nature. With the content of most members of the family, the cilian can add 1 gram of salt per liter of water to the aquarium water.

It is also recommended to add to the aquarium sea water, 5 percent iodine solution per 10 liters of water. Practically all experienced live-breeding breeders adhere to this recommendation, but unfortunately there is no reliable information on how the fish will behave at a higher degree of salinity.

I think that no one has yet tried such experiments because there were fears for the life of aquarium plants.

But aquarium plants are not the only way to decorate an aquarium, there are still stones, snags, artificial plants and other useful paraphernalia. But keep in mind that for experiments with changes in salinity of water, table salt is not suitable.

It is best to use artificial or real sea water. Also, for such experiments, frame aquariums with ordinary putty are not suitable, as they will crumble under the influence of salt.

And one last warning – the level of salinity should be raised gradually.

As in any other aquariums, in tanks with viviparous must be a heater, filter and compressor. The power of the lighting devices you should select from consideration of the requirements of plants and the presence of algae in the aquarium.

If the water is “green”, then it’s time to reduce the power of the lamp and prevent direct sunlight from entering the aquarium. If you notice a brown coating on the walls and elements of the decor, then brown algae appear, which are a signal to the aquarist that there is a lack of lighting in the aquarium.

As you know, live beetles love to be fed with algal bloom, therefore, it is not necessary to clean the green coating from the walls of the aquarium with a scraper, your pets will clean the glass themselves. The only lack of greenery on the glass is poor visibility and not an attractive aesthetic look.

Therefore, most aquarists prefer to scrape away the deposits with a scraper or foam sponge.

If filamentous algae appeared in the aquarium, then the water began to become polluted and in your aquarium there was very bright light. Mollies, squares and limia are excellent helpers in the fight against the filament.

Adults need to be fed every day 1-2 times, young stock a little more. Make sure that your pets eat up all the food they feed for 20 minutes.

All that remains is not eaten, it is best to remove from the aquarium so that the food does not rot and does not emit any excess organic compounds into the water.

Novice aquarists are often mistaken in the fact that their pets are constantly hungry, as they gather near the surface and swim near the feeder when the owner approaches the aquarium. To avoid overfeeding, you should know that only 5 percent of their weight is the daily ration of fish.

Accordingly, for two dozen adults of approximately the same size, you need to feed as much as one adult fish weighs.

But the young need more intensive feeding. Fry should be fed privately, but in small doses.

While feeding the young, pay attention to the remnants of the uneaten food, if any, then you will have to reduce the soldering and all the uneaten food should be removed with a siphon.

At very high or low temperatures, aquarium fish will eat less. It is better for adults to feed live food: tube maker, bloodworm, daphnia, coretica or cyclops.

For fry, the best starting food is fine cyclop, artemia and live dust. The first week of life fry most responsible.

Experienced raborazvodchiki recommend in the first few days to feed the fry for days on end with live food and do not turn off the light at night.

In the first weeks of life it is very important to give the fry a full and balanced diet. If in the first days of life the youngsters are “protracted”, then do not expect that you will be able to grow beautiful and large fish even under the most ideal feeding and housing conditions. As substitutes, better use industrial feed from Tetra and Sera.

These companies provide the market with a huge number of various dry feed substitutes at affordable prices.

But to feed young fish and adult fish with dried daphnia, various cereals, gammarus, bread crumbs and omelets is possible only for short periods and in small doses. Also refuse from the use of stale feed, as they can provoke growth retardation and the development of various diseases.

The main percentage of viviparous fish feed on everything you give them. Therefore, if you feed fish with live food, then add algae and other vegetable foods to their diet. Just do not forget that the representatives of the order of viviparous are cannibals.

They easily eat newly born fry. Other novice aquarists have a dilemma: there was a full female mollies, then she gave birth, and there were no fry.

The answer is simple – they all ate.

To preserve the offspring, the female is first deposited in a separate container, where aquarium plants located on the surface and in the water column are placed and a weak lamp is installed. Fry will accumulate in the most lighted areas in the interweaving of stems and roots of floating plants.

This is the only way to protect the young from the cannibal manners of their parents.

As a rule, the majority of live beetles give birth to fry once a month. The spawning period can vary depending on the temperature of the water in the aquarium, but on average, it is 2 – 40 days. If the temperature in the aquarium is higher, then the period is shortened; if the water temperature is low, it increases accordingly.

A clear sign of early spawning – the female’s abdomen near the back is greatly enlarged. Slightly above the anal fin you can see a specific spot of maturity.

To stimulate fish to spawn, it is enough to make a water change in the aquarium and raise its temperature. The substitution should be done carefully, avoiding sharp changes in the chemical parameters of water, since a sharp change in the chemical composition of water can provoke even underdeveloped embryos or eggs to premature sweeping.

Almost every lover of the family of the petsiliev once in his practice encountered the phenomenon when his pets do not want to breed. This happens with fish that live in perfect conditions, feed on the best food and generally do not experience any discomfort. You grow them in the conditions recommended by modern science, you grow large and healthy individuals, keep them in a spacious aquarium, but do not wish to spawn.

Why is that?

Most likely, when an aquarist tries to create the most favorable conditions for the fish, he is missing something important. This factor affects the normal maturation of the genital products.

According to ichthyopathologist A.Yu. Korzyukov, there are two most obvious reasons why fish become infertile: prolonged keeping of males from females apart and irrational feeding leads to the formation of cysts in the sex glands.

The disease is chronic and extremely difficult to detect. And when it pops up, it is already too late.

Milk and caviar become thinner, which leads to the fact that the fish greatly increases the belly. The aquarist has the impression that the individual is ready to spawn. At the same time, the liquid mass formed on the genital organs of fish begins to increase in size, which leads to disruption of the functions of metabolic processes in the body.

If you miss a cyst, the fish will become barren and soon die.

In natural conditions, unlike aquarium, such symptoms and diseases are extremely rare. In nature, skipping one spawning cycle does not lead to permanent infertility, but to skipping the next subsequent spawning. Just simply, until the genitals and products are not resorbed, there will be no new portion of caviar.

The fish’s body must free itself from the genital products unmarked during the previous spawning. This condition is mandatory for both live beetles and ordinary fledged fish.

Degenerating eggs release nutrients that begin to be absorbed into the blood of the fish and absorbed by the body. When the process is complete, the fish is able to reproduce again.

During fasting, the body begins to draw supplies from adipose and tissue-altered tissue. It turns out that fasting helps rid the body of the fish from the remnants of unmarked caviar.

By the way, a few words about fasting … Repeated experiments of inveterate razvodchikov viviparous showed that long starvation, as a rule, contribute to the restoration of the ability to spawn in both young and old fish that have stopped breeding.

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