maintenance, care, compatibility
Ornamental and aquarium fish have many diseases, and not everyone can make a sick fish an accurate diagnosis. And if you do not know what to treat, then you will not find the necessary medicine.
Choosing medications at random, you waste time and money. And, if you don’t feel sorry for the money on the fish, then you won’t return the time spent in vain.
One of the good tools that can help your pets, is quite inexpensive – it is salt. It is a traditional folk remedy in the treatment of fish.
Treatment of aquarium fish with salt is not suitable for the following varieties: catfish, tarakatum, corridors, as well as anticycros and pterygoplichts. Long baths in an aquarium, even with a low salt concentration, are very harmful to them.
Also do not like salt Sumatran barb and its variants – for example, mossy barb (otherwise – “mutant”). Carefully treat young labyrinth fish. Short baths in which the salt concentration is more than 1.5% are poorly tolerated by them.
And if the concentration of salt is less with the prolonged bathing of fish, the therapeutic bath will not be effective.
Some razvodchiki put salt a little (for 10 l – a couple of teaspoons) right in the nursery aquarium. Over time, the fish begin to get used to the increased salinity, and they, in fact, start to hurt less, but will not be able to live in fresh water.
Do not use salt in common ornamental aquariums with plants – higher aquatic plants do not like elevated concentrations of chlorine and sodium ions, but they do not interfere with algae reproduction.
Also, do not treat ichthyophthyriosis with table salt.
Short salt baths help with the following diseases of aquarium fish: tetrahymeniosis, kosoz, oodiniumosis, chylodonellosis, dactylogyrosis, apiosomas, gyrodactylosis, trichodynosis, saprolegniosis. Saprolegniosis is a fungal disease, the rest cause various ectoparasites.
The means of dealing with them can be varied, but an increased concentration of salt will kill them.
With these diseases, the fish begin to itch about the leaves of the plants and the ground, their fins are compressed, they stay near the water surface in the corners of the aquarium or around the air diffuser. If you have noticed these dysfunctional symptoms, and you cannot make an accurate diagnosis, then it is better to make sure that all conditions for fish life in the aquarium are acceptable.
And when you find out that life is suitable for fish in an aquarium, but for some reason it is bad for them, only then decide that the fish are sick, and proceed to treatment.
All “evil” will kill 4-5% salt solution, but the fish in it can hold out for about a minute. It is better to use a 1.5% solution – the fish is transferred for 10 minutes.
To begin, spend a swim with a pair of low-value fish – see how they will transfer it. Watch the fish carefully.
If they lie on the side on the surface, and from the water they begin to push – stop the procedure.
How to treat “semolina” in fish: furatsilinom, salt, “Antiparom”?
Another useful tip on how to treat semolina in saltwater aquarium fish. There is one caveat with this treatment. Aquarium plants do not like salt and will die if they are not removed in time.
Some species of fish also can not be in salt water. Here the approach should be individual. It all depends on the type of pets in your tank.
Having made the preparation, we proceed to the treatment. You can act in different ways. The first way:
- increase the water temperature to thirty degrees;
- add to the aquarium table salt iodized at the rate of a tablespoon of salt per ten liters of water;
- keep this water for a month until everyone is well;
- in parts, replace all the water with fresh.
- precipitate infected fish into a separate vessel;
- put salt on the bottom of the vessel (about thirty grams per liter of water);
- change water twice a day;
- do the procedure for ten days.
The second method is designed for the fact that the fish swim from above, and the ciliate falls down on the salt and dies. You replace the water in a timely manner and remove the dead parasites.
Fin rot is treatable in an aquarium. In the early stages, it can be stopped by water changes (30% of the total), by raising the water to the maximum possible for sick pets.
It is advisable to drop off both healthy and sick fish to quarantine in different tanks, or sprinklers. If water changes and warm water did not help to eliminate the disease, you need to begin medical treatment.
- For the treatment of infection, you can use chloramphenicol tablets, in the proportions of 1 tablet per 20 liters of water.
The drug should be crushed to the state of the powder in a small bowl with infused water, and pour into the tank. Every three days you need to make a replacement of 30% water, and with them add a new dose of the drug.
It is necessary to treat fish until their condition returns to normal.
Look for one way to treat fin rot.
How to treat semolina in fish :: treatment of aquarium fish from semolina salt :: Treatment
Ichthyophthyriosis, semolina – scary words for a beginner in aquarism. However, you shouldn’t panic, especially if you watch your pets closely enough and don’t miss the first signs of this disease. fish.
Question “Animals” – 1 answer
- – malachite green dye,
- – medicines for fish,
- – disposable syringe
- – salt.
1. If you notice that your fish behave unnaturally, they hang for a long time at the surface of the water, they often move their gills, sluggish in motion, faded spots appear on their scales or skin, they have white ichthyophthyriosis, and in the common people – decoy. Do not panic, do not pull out the plug of the lamp from the outlet, do not turn on the heater with all its might, do not pour furatsilin into the aquarium with cups and do not pour bicillin into spoons, and also do not use any folk remedies.
2. Aquarium fish, like people, experience physical agony during illness, so the first thing to do is to get rid of unnecessary stress. Dim the light in the aquarium, try to ensure maximum silence in the room, do not stomp, do not slam the door.
3. Patients fish you should not set aside in another container, all for the same reasons, treat them in the general aquarium. On the first day, coal, zeolites, and peat should be removed from the filter; put a temporary filter with replaceable fine-cleaning cartridges.
Replace 25-30% of water with fresh, naturally settled. Increase in the aquarium at the time of treatment aeration.
4. Apply for treatment fish from ichthyophthyriosis, only proven drugs, such as Super Ick Cure from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Faunomor from Aquarium Munster and Sera Costapur. These preparations do not harm aquarium plants and cure one hundred percent. fish.
Use Sera Costapur strictly according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and other drugs on the first day, on the third and on the fifth day.
5. Before each addition of the drug, replace up to a quarter of the water, raising the overall temperature by 1-2 degrees for the duration of the treatment. On a day, add a pinch of salt, it promotes healing of wounds that sick fish inflict on themselves, trying to itch against grottoes, stones and shells. On the sixth day, replace water again, return coal or other fillers to the filter, lower the water temperature to normal even after a couple of days. Also, if you get sick with dunking, adding malachite green dye to the water in a ratio of 0.09 mg / l will help with a syringe, proportions of 0.06 mg / l.
This organic dye does not affect the plants and the beneficial microflora of the aquarium.
Ichthyophthyriosis, or semolina, most often affects fish for inexperienced aquarists. After all, it is enough to run one infected individual to the rest of the inhabitants of your aquatic world, without keeping it after the purchase, the allotted time in quarantine, and it is likely that in a few days the ciliates will flood the aquarium.
This is manifested by rashes in the form of semolina, fish rub against stones, on the ground, stop eating and die. If time to carry out treatment, they can still be saved.
- – salt;
- – drugs against ichthyophthiriosis;
- – activated carbon filter.
1. To effectively combat decoy, familiarize yourself with the development cycles. Unicellular ciliates (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis) is a parasite that has an ovoid body as small as 0.5-1 mm.
His life cycle is 12-16 days. Adults, being on plants, soil, aquarium equipment, are covered with a gelatinous shell, creating a cyst.
Inside it is divided several times, then the daughter cells (“roaches”) search for the victim for three days. In case of contact with the fish, they penetrate the epithelium, create a cavity and parasitize for several days. Then they fall away from the victim, and the cycle repeats.
Those ichthyophthiriuses who did not find fish perish.
2. If you have a few fish, then deposit them in a container without algae and soil. Since the parasites are still in their body, then add salt to the water at the rate of 1 tbsp. 10 liters of water.
To do this, pour the right amount of salt with a small amount of warm water, wait until it is completely dissolved and pour it into the aquarium. In this procedure, remember that not all types of aquarium fish are well tolerated for a long time in salt water.
For example, barbs, some catfish, tetras, labyrinths and others.
3. In salt water, infusorians outside the body of the fish quickly die, but for greater reliability it is better to change the capacity after 12 hours. After another half a day, transplant the fish into another water again. With this method, you can not even add salt or other drugs.
Since the parasite in the body of the fish can be only a few days, then gradually, within 5-10 days, the infusoria will all die.
4. After you have planted the fish, in the aquarium, raise the temperature to 32-34 degrees and stand in this mode for a little more than three days. During this time, all the “strollers” will die.
5. You can treat the fish from the semolina and in the aquarium itself, especially if you have it big and it is just difficult to remove all its inhabitants. In this case, you can also use the salt, but it is better to buy a special tool, for example, Faunomor, Super Ick Cure, Ichthyofor, Malachite Green. Dilute the preparation according to the instructions in the package.
If repeated processing is required, then spend it.
6. After some drugs, water can be stained, for example, after applying malachite green – in a greenish color. Usually it doesn’t bother the fish; after a course of treatment, lighten the water with an activated carbon filter.
It should be remembered that only those parasites that are outside the body of fish perish from drugs.
Sick fish acquire immunity against ichtiftirioza (semolina). But they can be carriers of the parasite, that is, the signs of semolina will not manifest themselves, and the ciliates themselves will long remain on the body and gills of the fish and, under favorable conditions, will cause a new outbreak of the disease.
Do not raise the temperature of the water very much, some types of causative agent of semolina from this only develop faster.
Ichthyophthiriosis is an infectious disease of fish caused by the attack of an equally effective infusorian ichthyophthyrus.
The disease is manifested by the appearance on the body of a small fish of small tubercles up to 1 mm in size. The number of bumps is growing every day of illness.
This disease is also called – semolina, as the aquarium fish, as if sprinkled with semolina. Some novice aquarists call these hillocks: dots, bubbles, specks.
However, these are the bumps – the place from where the ciliate parasites come out. Read more about the life cycle of the parasite on our forum – HERE.
Immediate treatment is necessary, otherwise the ciliates will deplete the fish and it will die.
photo Ichthyophthyriosis semolina Goldfish – Voilehvost
For a crushing victory and successful treatment of ichthyophtiriosis, two things need to be known:
1. The life cycle of the infusoria parasite.
I will not bore you with a thorough description of the life of ciliates:) …. I can only say that when a parasite gets into the body of a fish, it leaves it in 1-2 weeks (forming a hillock – semolina). Falling to the bottom is fastened and breeds into thousands of larvae, which are beginning to look for a new prey.
2. Given the knowledge of the life of the parasite. We must make his life cycle unbearable.
And it is very easy to do …
INCREASE THE TEMPERATURE OF AQUARIUM WATER AT 2-4 DEGREES (optimally 30-32 degrees). + ALWAYS INCREASE THE INTENSITY OF AERATION.
What gives rise to the temperature of the aquarium water?
First, the life cycle of the parasite is accelerated, which means that it “goes” and dies faster. And second, as the temperature increases, the immune system of the fish itself is activated, which allows it to more effectively fight the disease with its own resources.
In the initial stages of ichthyophthiriosis, a temperature increase may be sufficient … after a couple of days, the enemy is defeated. But, for greater confidence in the aquarium water, you need to add a dose (see on the package) of tripaflavin or bicillin-5 (the old-time method). You can use more modern treatments for semolina, for example:
TetraMedica Contralck – Contract (best, recommended).
Sera Costapur – Kostapur (analogue of TM Sulfur).
TetraMedica GoldOomed – (from ichthyophthiriosis, especially for Goldfish, universally).
These drugs do an excellent job.
However, one should always remember about “secondary infections” – that is, about the diseases that follow the main infection. Additionally, it is recommended to use other drugs leveling secondary diseases (fungal or bacterial infections).
For example, the Sera Brand, recommends using Sera ectopur (ectopur) together with Sera Costapur to prevent and combat fungus and ectoparasites. Methylene blue can also be used as a preparation for a secondary infection.
On the line of aquarium drugs, read the article: DRUGS AND AIR CONDITIONERS “TETRA”
ALL DRUGS AND CONDITIONERS OF SERA
ALL DRUGS PREPARATIONS OF THE FIRM “ZOOMIR”
In the future, I recommend to be more attentive to pets! Because parasite infusoria, often falls into the water and develops due to: low temperatures, stress of fish, mud, is brought from unchecked sources, without quarantine of new fish, etc.
P.S. Ichthyophthyroidism of fish is very similar to oodinimosis, which is also caused by infusoria, but the other is caused by flagellates. With this infection, the body of the fish is covered with monkey sand and has greyish, tiny nodules.
Which, in the neglected case, form a solid gray cover. The fish is exfoliated skin.
Oodinium disease is actually treated in the same way as ichthyophthyrosis. Specialist. drug for oodiniumosis – Sera oodinopur.
Proportions and dosage of therapeutic agents, see. AQUA MEDICINE.
Ichthyophthyrius, semolina, white dots disease, ichik … Who is he? Let’s take a closer look:
Here he is, the hero of today’s story.
My dream to sleep today is not destined to come true. In the morning early phone call:
– Ver, in your first aquarium, the chilli covered with white dots, what to do? – I tear my eyes, trying to pretend that I have not slept:
– And a lot of points?
– Well, about 30-40 pieces, tails are all in points, especially in the red ones …
– Where were you when there were 1-2 points there, – although don’t go away for the weekend – well, pour Kostapur and Mykopur, and I will come the day after tomorrow – I will look.
I put the phone down and here I understand that the patsilias have only been treated for bacteriology, and their water is salty, salt is a tablespoon per 10 liters of water. But even 20 years ago, salt was one of the main ways to treat ichthyophthiriosis.
The day after tomorrow it only got worse, disk squares were covered in dots, like a carpet. The already classic scheme in my practice – Sera Costapur (in full dose every other day) + Sera mycopur (in half dose, daily) – again failed.
Made a substitution, filled Sera Costapur + furazolidone at the rate of 1 tablet 50 mg per 15 liters of water. Furazolidone is a nitrofuran preparation, most bacteria and protozoa are sensitive to it.
A good tool, but I use it only in extreme cases, it ruins the microflora of the aquarium and for two weeks the water becomes color, I’m sorry, urine, it looks extremely unpresentable in the sales counter.
Two days have passed. The result is zero.
It gets worse again. Disk platies began to fall on the bottom, on the body there is no living space.
I understand that to continue to treat with furazolidone is also useless. I do a massive substitution again.
It remains the last resort – copper. I take a penny drug “Formed”, pour. A day later, the points were clearly less, the fish went on the mend.
Copper is a powerful tool, but not the best option for a home aquarium. It is destructive for invertebrates (snails, shrimps, etc.), algae, beneficial aquarium microflora, and with minimal overdoses also for fish and plants.
This is already recovering fish, yesterday there were twice as many points, but even now it’s not a fact that it will survive.
This is how diseases evolve with progress in pharmacology. I often hear from my colleagues:
– “Semolina”? So I raise the temperature and pour a little blue.
– And how does it help?
– Well, yes … There were, however, cases when the whole aquarium died and nothing helped …
We once had a supplier who claimed that if you always keep fish at 30 ° C, it will never get ichthyophthirius. However, as practice has shown – at such temperatures the fish loses weight due to the acceleration of metabolism, but continues to hurt.
Not so long ago the discus was sick, whose temperature was always 30-31 ° C.
Do not believe in fairy tales that ichthyophthirius can be brought only with new fish and live food. Under adverse conditions, cysts fall asleep and are able to remain in a viable state for a long time. They remain in the ground, on the body of the fish.
There is evidence that live ichthyophthirius cysts were found even in tap water! Just accept as given – in your tank it is always there.
What to do?
First: the best treatment is prevention. In our case – control of the most important parameters of water, proper feeding, observance of conditions of keeping (schooling fish are kept in flocks, everyone has enough volume and shelters), all this is prevention of stressful phenomena, and stress is a decrease in immunity and a direct path to diseases.
Second: daily inspection. In most cases, 1-2 points, found in time, are treated very easily.
Then, as a neglected disease is almost incurable.
Third: buying a new fish. Carefully watch what you are buying.
Ideally, find out when the delivery is in the store, look at what has arrived at the store, and then come up after 4-5 days, the fish will acclimatize by this time and if you are infected with ichthyophthyriosis due to transportation stress, you will see it. Examine each fish, also pay attention to the condition of the aquarium (poor conditions are stressful, see item 1), and the presence of drugs in the water.
Fourth: choice of treatment. If, nevertheless, one day the disease visits your aquarium (as practice shows — sooner or later every aquarist faces this problem), you need to choose the right treatment.
1. If you saw 2-3 points, they are obvious, large (about 0.5-1 mm). You can raise the temperature by 2-3 degrees.
Salt water at the rate of 1 tbsp. 10 liters of water. Salt is dissolved in a jar; all salt at once cannot be poured into water, in 3-4 doses with an interval of 15 minutes. Remember that not all fish can be salted.
Most soms do not tolerate salt, and Sumatran and mossy barbs do not like it either. Do not salt the aquariums with plants. Strengthen aeration.
Malachite green (“Malachite green”, “Ichthyophore”, Zoomir company, SeraCostapur according to the instructions). Before making the drug – the substitution of 30-50% water (with the introduction of salt to the initial concentration).
Cleaning the aquarium before making dyes (whether it is malachite green, methylene blue, acriflavin or anything else) is required! With an excess of organic dyes quickly inactivated.
Malachite green is applied once every two days in a full dose.
2. If you see a lot of very small, barely noticeable points (and in general if the disease is already running) – do not raise the temperature, tropical forms of ichthyophthirius are activated at a temperature of 30-32 ° C, raising the temperature you will kill the fish.
3. Treatment with short-term baths is ineffective, since the parasite is under the epithelium and the medicine cannot reach it. The main impact is on strollers, and they freely swim around the aquarium.
4. I have already said that one of the best remedies for ichthyophthiriasis is malachite green, I personally use a drug based on it – Sera Costapur. It works much better in combination with Sera mycopur (in half dosage).
Checked – Sera Costapur does not kill plants and invertebrates, used in herbalists and shrimp. But lately, malachite green is getting worse and worse.
5. An even stronger combination (available to the general public) is Sera Costapur (according to the instructions every other day) + furazolidone (1 tablet per 15 liters of water). Furazolidone kills not only ichthyophthirius, but also plants and useful flora.
6. Preparations of copper, has repeatedly come across – they help even when nothing helps. Copper is extremely toxic to invertebrates, the slightest overdose can kill fish.
I use Zoomirovsky “Formed”, purely empirically – it poisons fish less than pure copper sulphate (it can withstand even capricious and treated-over-fished fish), but it works no worse.