Hello dear readers! Last time I published an article about breeding discus, I hope you liked it.
This time we will meet a beautiful representative of the Haracin family, known as the Fire Tetra.
For the first time, aquarists saw this fish in the 20s of the last century and since then it, together with red neons and terntions, has entered the aquarium life of amateurs fairly well. The fish is famous for its beautiful coloring and outstanding breeding qualities.
In the history of breeding fiery tetra, there have been cases when she perfectly crossed with similar species of H. Bifasciatus and H. Griemi. I would also like to note that in recent times, the characters have successfully used proven methods of hormonal effects on coloring on some of the Haracin ones.
To do this, the drug must either be introduced into the aquarium with food or dissolved in aquarium water. This leads to the fact that in some cases the color of the fish becomes more intense in everyday life and during spawning. But like all methods, in addition to a number of advantages, it also has its drawbacks: a painted group of fish is less resistant to various diseases and their viability is significantly underestimated.
But as shown by the observations of professional characters, the hormonal effect on the color of fish in no way affected the deterioration of sexual function and the reproduction process.
But since our blog is devoted to aquarism for beginners, we will not need all these complex wisdom with hormonal effects on fish, we will learn to care for our aquarium and pets without chemical and other drugs. In order for tetra von Rio to have a bright color without various preparations, it needs to create good conditions and have the right lighting.
Tetra von Rio looks great in high banks up to 60 centimeters, where there is a dense planting of the following plants: Ludwigia, Brazilian peristristum, Javanese moss, Vallisneria spiral and gigantic, as well as low-growing Echinodorus species.
It is mandatory that the aquarist should leave enough free space for swimming, preferably near the front glass. In order for a gaggle of fish to look good in your tank, it is advisable to buy more males than females, as they have a brighter color.
When the female reaches 4 months of age, she begins to produce a belly, which becomes yellow-silver. The body of males is flat and slightly lean.
The body length of males is 3.5-4 centimeters, females 4.5-5 centimeters.
The main body color of the fish in the front part of it is silvery yellow. Behind the gill cover are several bright and narrow vertical stripes. The tail and dorsal fins are pinkish and transparent in appearance.
Fat and pectoral fins are colorless and yellowish. Anal and ventral fins are painted in rich red color.
In males, the red color gradually turns into a brick.
To contain a fiery tetra in aquariums, where the water temperature in the winter season is not less than 16 degrees, and in the summer in the range of 20-22 degrees. The recommended total hardness should be no more than 12, the active response of the medium in the range of 6-7 pH. Be careful, as frequent water changes adversely affect the condition of the fish.
In order not to harm the fish, the water in the aquarium is recommended to replace once a week in the amount of 10-15 percent of the total. It is desirable that the substitute water was boiled.
Also watch for the amount of decaying organic waste in the aquarium, since if they are in abundance, the fire tetras become very restless and lose their appetite over time, trying to leave the aquarium all the time.
As you probably understood, tetra fon Rio is a peaceful inhabitant of an aquarium that gets along well with its family members, speckled catfish, carps, and some species of South American cichlids. It is possible to breed a fire tetra in various ways.
The key to successful spawning of fish is properly prepared spawning water, which begins to be prepared 10 days before spawning.
The best way to prepare spawning water is as follows: Mix 5 liters of distilled and boiled tap water, where you need to add 15-20 drops of peat extract or decoction. If there is a problem with peat, then you can put a few seedlings of alder, or add a couple of drops of phosphoric acid.
In order for the spawning to proceed normally and the larvae survived, the hardness of the spawning water should be no more than 4.5 degrees and the active reaction of the medium should be in the range of 6-6.5 pH.
Spawning should be installed in such a place that it gets the sun’s rays and additionally organize the illumination of the can with an incandescent lamp from a distance of 30-35 centimeters. The water temperature in the aquarium should be around 25-26 degrees.
If spawning a couple of fish, the thickness of the water column should be within 12-14 centimeters. If you spawn a couple of males and one female for spawning, the thickness of the water column should be 20 centimeters.
If you want to carry out a group spawning in a larger aquarium, consider the fact that most of the eggs will be eaten by their parents.
Approximately a week before spawning, females need to be separated from the males by making a partition in the aquarium from the separator net. Further, the producers are intensively fed with live food and gradually increase the temperature of the water in the spawning chamber. As a spawning substrate, nylon sponge or small-leaved plants can be used, where after 6-12 hours after planting fish to spawn, the female lays about 500 small eggs.
To protect caviar from attacks of cannibalism of parents, a large separator net, a nylon washcloth or net are placed on top.
Upon completion of spawning, the producers are removed from the spawning pool, reduce the water level in the aquarium to 10 centimeters and include light aeration. After that, you need to add a couple of drops of methylene blue to the water.
It is also necessary to make a change of water in the amount of 4/5 of the volume to boiled. If the water temperature in the spawning ground is at the 26-degree mark, then a day after the spawning, the larvae will appear from the eggs.
At first, they will either hide in shelters, or move in small rushes along shelters.
After 4-5 days, the larvae can already begin to feed. If food is not enough, the larvae can either die or begin to show cannibal inclinations. Use the following starter feed for fry: rotifers, ciliates, cyclops nauplii, live dust, boiled egg yolk.
After a week, you can add nematodes to your diet, but do it in small quantities. With the growth of young stock, fry need to be transferred to large aquariums, where there is filtration and aeration.
To fry grew evenly, they need to constantly sort.
Every day, you need to remove from the reeds the remnants of undernourished feed and other dirt, as well as daily replace about 5% of the water with fresh. When the fry hit the month, vegetable food is added to their ration: cereals, bread, wolfia and riccia. Since the fire tetra loves to overeat, limit the amount of oatmeal and white bread.
With proper maintenance and a balanced diet, puberty in females occurs at the age of 6-8 months, and in males at the age of 8-12 months. The life span of tetra von rio is no more than 5 years.