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Tetra Amanda: rules for keeping and breeding in an aquarium

Tetra Amanda is one of the smallest members of the Haracin family. Some sources indicate the size of the fish within 3 centimeters, however, in real life, the maximum body length of a male in captivity does not exceed two centimeters, and the female is even smaller.

If you rummage in the aquarium sources, you can find a couple of dozen of these fishes from the family of haracin, which have similar sizes. The truth is that tetra Amanda is extremely rare in home aquariums.

There are several reasons for the low popularity of Amanda. The first and most important reason is the difficulty of delivering fish from its habitats. The second reason that can be argued in importance with the previous one is the difficulty of breeding a fish.

And the third, more indirect, is the weak reproductive capacity of tetras, especially in captivity.

If you carefully study the latest trends in the world of aquarism, we can conclude that now large aquariums with large inhabitants and a large number of aquatic vegetation have become fashionable. And if the volume of the aquarium is about 300 – 400 liters, then very few people want to contemplate small fish in it.

And how much do you need to put the same neons in such a bank so that the observer does not have the impression that the aquarium is empty? Accordingly, this tendency has led to the fact that the interest in small haraco-shaped ones is greatly weakened, and the tetra Amanda has gone into non-existence.

The first tetra Amanda was caught by ichthyologist Heiko Bleher during an expedition to the Rio Mansa River. As a result, the fish was named after Bleher’s mother, Amanda.

Thanks to the efforts of the ichthyologist, the fish not only reached European aquarists, it even began to breed successfully there.

The structure and shape of the body of the tetra has much in common with the “callistus” group, and by type of coloring it is located next to the “red phantom” ornatus. The difference in coloring is that Amanda is devoid of black spots on her body and fins.

The tail and median fins are red. In one litter fish with pale and saturated color can be caught.

Interestingly, the bright color is more characteristic of the “strong floor”. Dorsal fin grayish color, only the first beam has a light cream color.

The eyes are a golden color, which weakly sparkle in the reflected light.

Due to the fact that the body is slightly flattened on the sides, the fish can squeeze even into the narrowest spaces. In general, the appearance of the tetra and its coloring are combined with the poetic inclinations of European aquarists who called it “tetra-coal”.

Since Tetra-Amanda is a simple fish in its content, it can be recommended to beginner aquarists. As with the maintenance of the majority of tropical inhabitants in conditions of captivity, for the fish to show their beauty, the habitat conditions should be either in nature or as close as possible to them.

Since the fish is small, it will perfectly fit into a small vegetative aquarium populated by peaceful inhabitants.

Since the water in the natural habitat is very soft, in an aquarium this will be achieved if you use filtration with peat. But, as practice has shown, the tetra perfectly adapts to our tap water. To reduce its hardness a little, you can dilute it when changing water passed through a reverse osmosis system.

To the fish contrasted with the interior design of the aquarium and decorations, the soil is preferable to a dark color. The optimal number of fish when buying is about 10 – 12 pieces.

Due to the fact that Amanda lives in tropical regions, where a small amount of sunlight breaks through to the water bodies, the fish prefers twilight. If you organize a strong light in an aquarium, it will eventually begin to depress your pets.

But, if you have a herbalist, then you can’t do without good intense lighting. To make the fish feel comfortable, organize the shaded areas, using floating plants (pistis, Riccia), immerse large stones and interesting snags in the aquarium.

These simple manipulations will give your bank naturalness.

There is another good option to soften the water and improve immunity among the inhabitants of the aquarium. The use of a small substrate of dried leaves of oak, almond or birch nourishes the aquarium water with tannins, which strengthen the immune system. The substrate must be changed regularly as the destruction of the leaves.

Because of its modest size, tetra Amanda can live in small aquariums (up to 15 liters). The presence of aeration in such aquariums is not a mandatory aspect, but the filtration of water should be around the clock.

The optimal water parameters are as follows:

  • Water hardness: 1 – 15 dGH;
  • Active reaction environment: 5.0 – 7.0 pH;
  • Temperature: 22 – 28 degrees;
  • Weekly siphon of the substrate and the replacement of 1/5 of the water to fresh.

In nature, tetra Amanda feeds on small invertebrates and zooplankton. In the aquarium, the fish can perfectly feed grated granules and flakes of dry fodder. Also in the diet should include feed of animal origin: chop pipe, bloodworm, Artemia nauplii and Cyclops, as well as daphnia.

Particularly valuable types of food to maintain a healthy color are the shaker and bloodworm. But, with a pipe worker you need to be careful, because as he can contain a lot of nastiness and provoke obesity, I would rather stop on a little bloodworm.

If you have organized good living conditions, then the fish can spawn in the general aquarium. That’s just the number of surviving fry leaves much to be desired.

If you need to successfully grow fry and neutralize unplanned breeding, carefully prepared for spawning.

Mature tetra Amanda becomes aged 4 to 6 months. Males have a brighter color and slim body.

The color of the females is slightly paler, they are slightly larger, the belly is rounded. Preparation for spawning begins with the correct choice of healthy producers.

To begin, you must select some of the most active and brightly colored males and females. A couple of weeks before the fish are supposed to spawn, they are kept apart and actively fed on protein feeds, which provoke the development of high-quality sexual products.

For breeding, reproduction and incubation of eggs, a small spawning is useful. The lighting in it should be muffled, the water is soft and clean, and its level should not exceed 20 centimeters.

At the bottom of the aquarium is laid either a separator grid or small-leaved plants (Javanese moss, Brazilian peristristum, Christmas moss or hornpole). Green carpet will have to cover the grid, if you do not want parents to eat all their caviar.

For spawning, both a pair of fish and a group of 2-3 males and 3 females are placed in an aquarium. To spawn the fish should be placed in the evening, because the fish multiply the very next morning.

The maximum fecundity of one female is about one and a half hundred eggs. The incubation period for caviar lasts from days to one and a half, at the end of which small larvae with a yolk sac appear, which serve as food for the first few days.

When the yolk sac resolves, Amanda’s young tetra begins to swim actively in the aquarium in search of food. The starting food for Amanda’s fry is “live dust”.

The size of the feed fraction needs to be increased as the fry grow, gradually adding Cyclops and Artemia to their diet.

Since the tetra has a miniature size, the neighbors should be cute and fluffy, as well as about the same size. Good neighbors for Amanda are the following fish:

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