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Pearl gourami – keeping and breeding in an aquarium

Hello to all readers and casual visitors of Aquablog. With you, as always, Andrei Selitsky and today I want to publish a post at the request of a blog reader. And he asked to tell about such an aquarium fish as a pearl gourami.

As you probably already understood, the word of the readers and subscribers of my blog is law to me, so I was happy to take the time to write this article, as they say at the request of the workers. I recently posted a post-response to a reader’s question on a blog.

You can read the article here. Now I am fulfilling the request again! And so, let’s go 🙂

If you saw a pearl goura live, you will agree with me that the fish is very beautiful and interesting. The body of the fish has a light silver color, small white dots go all over the body of the fish. Along the entire back on the middle line is a black stripe.

When it comes time to spawn, the breast of pearly gourami becomes a reddish-orange color. As a rule, the female is not as bright as the male. In addition, females guramok relatively smaller than the males.

Adult fish in aquarium conditions can be up to twelve centimeters in length, but the size depends in most cases on the size of the can, feeding and so on. Another distinctive feature by which you can distinguish a male from a female in the store is a long dorsal fin in the male.

At the female he will be shorter.

If you decide to purchase pearl gouras in your aquarium, then for these aquarium fish you need approximately the following conditions:

– water temperature should be within 24-27 degrees;

– carbonate hardness of water from 5 to 12 units;

– active reaction of the medium, it is pH – 6-7.

As I mentioned earlier, as the fish grows quite large, then the dwelling needs an appropriate one for it. I warn you right away – they don’t roll the Khrushchevka 🙂 When you create an aquarium design, do not forget about the thick landing of aquarium plants, where pearl gourami likes to hide. Who can get along with gourami, you ask?

I have three pearls living in aquas, and besides them there are red neons, mollies, girinohaylusy, swordtails, rhodostomy, minors, wedge-shaped rasboros and ornatus.

I say right away, I do not observe any problems. All the fish that I live in the aquarium are not conflict. You may say the opposite, the type on the table, some fish are not compatible.

You can read about the compatibility of aquarium fish here. All bullshit!

In the compatibility tables, there are also inaccuracies, take the Sumatran barbs and the same gourami, supposedly they are compatible. However, as shown by the practice of keeping Sumatrans, they tore off their tails to my marble guramks.

What else is needed in the aquarium for the successful maintenance of pearl gourami? Naturally you need a filter and a lamp, without them in any way.

Although the fish and not demanding in the content, but it is desirable to prevent sudden changes in water indicators. I wrote about aquarium water in this and this article. Since the fish belong to the order of the labyrinth, that is, the guramki breathe air, it is better that there is an air gap between the surface of the water and the cover glass.

As for food, you should not bother much. My pearls burst perfectly like a bloodworm, a shaker, various dry food.

In general, the fish is not a problem.

It is possible to plant guramok both in a spawn and in a common bank. There are no particular problems in spawning.

If you have not noticed a male Guramma ready to spawn and have not transplanted it in time to the spawning aquas, then he will begin to build a nest of air bubbles. When choosing a place under the nest, the fish is guided by the rule – the warmer the better.

That is, the fish builds a nest near the heater.

If you use this method of breeding, then you will not wait for significant offspring. If you want to breed guramok on an industrial scale, then you simply need to spawn. First, first you need to sow the male, then the female.

They are kept a couple of weeks apart from each other and fed for slaughter as broller chickens 🙂 Joke!) They are fed abundantly, not for slaughter). The catalyst for breeding can be the addition of fresh water to the spawning tank. As soon as the male is ready to spawn, a girl is quickly hooked to him 🙂

How can we determine the readiness for reproduction of guramks? First of all, on the behavior of the fish. The male begins to actively drive other fish from the nest, and the female constantly sticks to it). In order for the fish to spawn, the water temperature should be between 24-26 degrees, hardness from 4 to 10, acidity 5.5 – 6.5.

The required water level in the chiller is around 15 centimeters. Also in the spawning area you need to create corners of dense vegetation for the female. To do this, suitable shrub cryptocoryne, wallisneria and cabombs.

In my glade between these plants, the fish are constantly hiding. Shelters from aquarium plants are needed in order if the male is suddenly not ready for spawning and is very aggressive so that the female can successfully shelter from it.

When a couple of guramks are placed in a spawning ground, before spawning, they dress up in a bright costume, the finders straighten and the male begins to show off in front of the female. When the moment comes, the male will actively look after the lady, and the end of the preparatory period is the construction of the nest.

Here are a few features for breeding pearl gouras:

– far from all pairs of gurammoks are suited to each other, that is, pairs will be formed by natural means;

– only young fish will not mind spawning, usually up to a year. If you miss this moment, then the fish may refuse to spawn at all;

– the water in the spawning should be as clean as in the general aquarium. When the spawning period comes, it is advisable to cover the area near the nest and open walls of aquas so as not to disturb the fish.

When the pearl gourami builds a nest (within 3 days), he begins to jealously guard his building and does not want to eat anything. When the nest is ready, the male pushes the female into the nest and fertilizes the calf, which emerges after fertilization to the surface just in the nest. After spawning, depleted fish sink to the bottom of the aquarium and scatter to different ends of the aquarium.

After that, the female must be removed from the spawning ground, and the male is left in the spawning grounds. If the eggs go beyond the nest, the male gently, paternally, collects the eggs in the mouth and returns them to the nest.

As soon as the fry hatch from the eggs, the male should be transplanted from the spawn as he did not eat anything and was pretty hungry. If you do not want the destruction of offspring, it is better to remove the folder from the aquarium.

Feed the young need the smallest food, such as ciliates, yogurt and fine dust. The young will not grow evenly, larger fry must either be left in the aquas and donate the other half of the fry, or they must constantly sort the fines.

The temperature in the spawning should be at least 24 degrees.

I have everything on it, I hope I did not miss anything important. If I missed something, then do not be very angry with me, I have been breeding fish for a long time and could have forgotten small details 🙂 I’m waiting for comments on the post and subscribe to blog updates.

Next time I want to publish the first part of an article about friends and enemies of aquarium plants. That’s all, bye everyone!)

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