Главная 7 Aquarium fish 7 Neon fish: maintenance, care, what to feed, how many live, species, compatibility at home, disease

Neon fish: maintenance, care, what to feed, how many live, species, compatibility at home, disease

Neon fish are probably one of the most common inhabitants of home aquariums. Watching these charming glowing creatures is a pleasure. In addition, neon fish unpretentious and have a peaceful disposition.

Best of all they feel “in companies” from 6–7 to their own kind.

Neon ordinary was first described by Gehry in 1927. They live in South America, home to the Paraguay, Rio Takuari, and Brazil basins.

And to nature, blue neons prefer to inhabit the slow tributaries of large rivers. These are rivers of dark water, flowing through dense jungle, so that the sunlight in the water falls very little.

They live in flocks, live in the middle layers of the water and feed on various insects.

At the moment, neons are very widely diluted for commercial purposes and are practically not caught in nature.

Neon fish is extremely unpretentious, so even a novice aquarist will cope with their maintenance and care. Best of all, they feel in small flocks of 6-7 individuals, their color in this case becomes as saturated as possible.

The most beautiful neon fish look at the background of dense aquarium greens and dark soil. To create the most natural conditions in the aquarium, you can add various snags.

The water temperature in the aquarium should be in the range of 20-23 ° C. This greatly affects how much your neons will live. The higher the temperature, the faster the fish age and therefore they live less.

In general, the average life expectancy of these fish with appropriate maintenance and care is about 3-4 years. Also, the aquarium water should be soft, always fresh and clean.

The volume of the aquarium for these fish can be anything. The main thing is that each individual had at least 1 liter of water.

It is necessary to have filtration and aeration systems, but regardless of this, it is recommended that weekly up to a quarter of the volume of water in the aquarium be changed to fresh.

From plants, fish neon prefers long-stemmed species, such as hornpole. When you make an aquarium, you should also remember that these agile fishes need a place for active swimming.

Neon fish also likes to have secluded places in the aquarium, where she can at any time hide from any danger. For this purpose, various artificial caves are created or ceramic shards are put.

An aquarium with neons requires diffused illumination, while it must be equipped with a blackout zone. You can achieve the required level of illumination by placing groups of algae.

To make neons feel comfortable, there must be plenty of water and greenery in it. 4-6 fish need an aquarium of at least 10 liters. They prefer standing water, so a small amount of small bubbles will be enough for them.

For this suitable compressor with a fine spray.

  • The optimum water temperature is between 18-24 degrees. By the way, neonchik life span directly depends on it. If at a temperature of 18 degrees they live on average 4 years, then at 27 degrees – no more than 2 years. The fact is that with an increase in temperature of the habitat their biorhythms increase. Consequently, the cool water in the aquarium for neons will allow them to live longer.
  • The hardness dH is 5–8, the acidity pH – 5.5–6.5 is the ideal parameters. In reality, neon ordinary can feel normal in more hard and acidic water.
  • Replacing water every week – 1 / 4–1 / 3 of the volume of the aquarium.

Neons do not need bright light, they have quite a cozy subdued light. And it is not necessary to cover the aquarium, the fish are not so active as to jump out of it.

But the greens need a thick and voluminous. Small “fireflies” love to play playfully in the lower layers of algae. The presence of dark areas, stones and spells at the bottom will bring the living conditions as close as possible to their habitat for neon and help them feel “at home”.

In addition, against the background of dark soil, their luminous band will appear brighter and more beautiful.

These fish are omnivores. In the wild, the daily ration of neons is made up of all sorts of small insects, their larvae, crustaceans and worms that enter the water column.

Like all haracin, these fish are very picky with regard to food. They, most likely, will use everything that we give them, and in the quantity that will be offered.

But a person is not a fish, and he must monitor the preservation of the health of his wards.

When compiling a daily menu for neons, one should be guided by three main tenets, namely:

  1. moderation;
  2. balance;
  3. diversity.

Firstly, in no case should you overfeed your fish. If we notice that one of our neonchikas have a swelling in the abdomen, changes in their behavior, lethargy or isolation of one or several individuals from their flocks, the cause of these symptoms is likely to be obesity.

Over-feeding fish is detrimental to their digestive system. It should be understood that in the wild, fish have incomparably wider spatial possibilities that a river or lake provides to them.

Within the aquarium, their free movement is constrained by its walls.

At the same time, fish tend to obey at the unconditional level the food search instinct. This is one of the main instincts of any wild animal, it has been developed for thousands of years and we cannot change anything in one sitting.

Thus, the regulation of one-day and daily norms of nutrition of our charges fully falls on us. Thus, let’s define how much food should be given to neons at a time, and how much per day.

The single dose should be determined by a small observation experiment. Despite the near-bottom lifestyle, the feeding of the neonchik rises to the surface of the water, so it will not be difficult for us to observe how much the fish eat the food in the first 2 minutes of feeding.

That’s all. This is a normal, healthy and harmless one-time rate of feed to the aquarium for your pets.

The rest is likely to become an excess, the use of which by the fish can lead to the previously described problems with their health.

The remnants of excess food should be carefully removed from the water surface with a net, because even if the inhabitants of the aquarium do not eat it, it will decompose and poison the water. This also should not be allowed.

Speaking about the daily schedule of feeding the fish of this species, he will say only that it will be right to feed the neons in small portions 2-3 times a day, preferably at the same time, although this is not so important.

It is also very appropriate to arrange your neonchik once a week, “hungry” day. This will be an excellent discharge for all the systems of the body of fish, and such a maneuver on our part will go to them only in store.

Now let’s talk, finally, about how to feed your fish. In the diet of these fish should be present as live natural food, and their dry counterparts.

The best live food for neons is, of course, brine shrimp, tubule, cyclop, daphnia and bloodworm. It will be reasonable to chop it before feeding to the aquarium.

Feeding natural live food will provide your pet with all the necessary nutrients, such as proteins and fats, that are so necessary for mobile neons.

By the way, if it is not possible to produce natural food for fish, you can give them finely planed sawdust of a cow’s heart. Neons are quite happy to eat such food.

You should also buy our neon pets special dry food. By and large, dry food and pellets make up a large part of the diet of almost all types of aquarium fish.

The main thing to remember to alternate them with natural food.

When buying dry flake food, you should give preference to proven, well-established manufacturers in the market. Do not rely only on clever marketing and advertising.

It is best to follow the recommendations of familiar aquarists, well, or at least read reviews and review articles on the Internet.

Such dry feeds as TetraMin and NeonGran have proven themselves well. These are special flocculated and granulated feeds from popular manufacturers that contain, according to the description, a multitude of useful substances.

In this case, we make some roll in the direction of the granules. Cereals should still be given to fish a little less, but high-quality granular food is suitable for daily use by your pets.

The most common neon disease is plastiforosis. It has an infectious nature, the pathogen is a pathogenic fungus, parasitic in the muscular system of fish.

It can be entered into an aquarium by other infected fish or untreated water.

The symptom of this disease is the staining of the color and the upward position of the body with the tail.

Treatment of plastiforosis does not exist. They destroy not only sick individuals, but also all that are in the aquarium, since even at first glance healthy fish can be a carrier of a harmful fungus.

The aquarium is cleaned and disinfected.

Neon get on well in the home pond with such aquarium fish: Pecillia (guppies, swordtails, mollies, placiums), speckled catfish, panda, tetra, danio rheo, labo, rastar, minors, gourami, iris, pulcheras, minors, hyacinths, sweaters, laboratories, rasomes, minors, gourami, iris, pulcheras, minors, marines, sweaters, minors, gourami, iris, pulcheras, minors, and fish. Consider compatibility with some fish in more detail.

Somiki corridor are excellent neighbors for small haracin ones, live together in the bottom layers of the aquarium, and collect remnants of uneaten food. The corridors are innocuous fish, also small and peaceful, they love to watch their neighbors without harming them.

Rasbory – can make an excellent company neon. Among them: the actual rasbory, boraras, microassemblies and trigonustigma, some of them belong to the family Karpovye.

Fishes of the Family Petsilievye (guppies, molly, sword-bearers, petsilia) – peacefully cohabit with haracin. Swordtails also have small body size, but males may be excessively active. It should be borne in mind that more than two swordtail males sometimes pursue smaller neighbors, especially during the spawning period.

With insufficient feeding, in the cramped, small place for swimming, the swordtails become unbearable. So that these fish do not terrorize small neons, the aquarium should be spacious, with a sufficient number of plants and shelters.

Neons are poorly compatible with such fish:

  1. Large catfish, cichlids, barbs, astronotus, cockerels, koi carps – those who live in cool water, or have a predatory, aggressive behavior.
  2. Goldfish – they live in cool water, and are aggressive towards bright fish and their offspring.
  3. Angelfish – can live with neons only under the condition that they all grew up with the age of young animals. But neon-stranger scalar will be perceived as food. Also during the mating season, the scalar will be aggressively inclined towards everyone, including these small fish.

Professionals advise: 12-14 days before spawning you need to visually assess the quality of future “parents” and isolate them from the rest of the fish. The main task is to distinguish females and males so that it does not happen that the owner populates the spawner with same-sex individuals and hopes for success.

Females are not too different from males. But the ladies are slightly larger, and their belly is more round, full. If you look closely, it will be clearly visible.

The neon line on the body of the male is more straight, without bending. A pregnant neon female is even more rounded in the belly, and in the male during the breeding season the swim bladder is very clearly visible.

Therefore, in the period of spawning to determine the sex of the fish is much easier.

In order to most likely get offspring, and healthy ones, you need to choose the best fish. Selection criteria:

  • Externally, the fish looks healthy, active.
  • The color is bright, juicy.
  • Fish eats well, does not refuse to eat.
  • Individual age does not exceed 1 year.

Having caught the winners in these nominations, you need to deposit them in separate containers, where the water temperature is 22 degrees, and serve a royal ration with healthy live food. Daphnia, small bloodworm, cyclops will do.

But it is not recommended to give fish pipe makers. With all its virtues, this type of live food contains a lot of fat and can provoke the disease of the future “parent.”

In addition, tubules are often carriers of pathogenic agents and viruses.

Before the main landing for mating games takes place, it is recommended several times (five will be enough) to arrange short visits for the fish. So they “get to know” and more successfully organize their dance.

Unfortunately, not all fertilized eggs can survive, some can get a fungus, and some will die during the ripening period. After 9 hours, surviving, unspoiled fertilized eggs can be selected from the rest with a medical pipette.

Transfer them to another container with similar parameters of water so that they do not get infected and die.

The most dangerous enemy of neon eggs is harmful bacteria and fungus. With the help of drugs Trypaflavin, methylene blue or General Tonic, you can stop the reproduction of microbes, thereby ensuring the life of future fish.

After adding the drug, the water level can be reduced by 7-10 cm. Caviar will ripen until the larvae appear. This will happen in 24 hours if the temperature of the water medium is 24-25 o C.

After a few days the fish fry can swim in the upper layers of the water, at the same time they can be given food that they themselves will eat. The starting food for the fry is Cyclops larvae (for the first 4 weeks of life, before the first color strips appear on the body).

If you know how to produce infusoria, rotifers or other types of plankton at home, you can add this feed.

The fish grow quickly, later they will require another feeding, now they can be given small cyclops, chopped live food. When the brood grows up, the surviving fry can be moved to another aquarium with a temperature of 24-25 degrees, water hardness of 10-12 o. This is necessary so that they are not infected with plistofora. At first they will adapt to the new conditions, in a month they will get used to them completely.

If the water is too hard (take measurements with devices with indicators), soften it with special tools that are in stores.

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