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Live fish food

maintenance, care, compatibility

Live food in aquarium: advantages and disadvantages

In nature, the diet of fish is quite diverse. In almost all species, it includes small invertebrates in one or another quantity, and for predators, live food is the main food. And if in the conditions of an aquarium we want to grow large healthy specimens that can later produce offspring, it is unlikely to be able to do without live food.

This is especially true of large predatory fish, for example, cichlids.

The main advantages of live food are a large amount of high-grade protein that is easily digested by fish, as well as the presence of intact vitamins in an accessible, natural form.

In addition, the fact that he is alive and moving is important – it allows the fish to maintain its natural hunting reflexes. And for fry or some predatory fish and amphibians, the presence of live food is vital, since they perceive only moving objects as food. Another advantage of live food – if used properly, it spoils the water much less than dry. But live food has a significant disadvantage – it can contain toxins and harmful substances that fish can poison, and also be a carrier of various parasitic or infectious diseases, especially if it was collected in polluted water bodies within the city limits.

The most common types of live food are mosquito larvae – coreta and bloodworm, worms – most often tubule and small crustaceans – artemia, daphnia and others.

There are quite a few disinfection schemes. Ozonization is considered the most effective method, but it is difficult to implement at home, although some craftsmen make ozonizers on their own and use them. The available methods for disinfecting moth, tubule, corret are the following:

  • Ichthyofor preparation – 50 drops per 100 ml, soaked for 20-30 minutes;
  • methylene blue – 30–50 drops per 100 ml of water (until dark blue), keep in solution for 10–15 minutes;
  • weak pink solution of potassium permanganate;
  • 2 tablets of metronidazole per 10 liters of water;
  • soak in water with crushed garlic for an hour;
  • liquid 5% piperazine solution for 15–20 minutes as prevention of helminth infections;
  • 2 times a week for 10 minutes to keep in 5% solution of sea or salt;
  • soak in a solution of trypaflavin (0.1 g per 10 l) for 2–3 days;
  • a solution of furazolidone at a concentration of 1: 25,000;
  • kanamycin 100 mg / l for 1 hour;
  • Erycycline 250 mg / l for 1 hour.

However, the use of any of these schemes and even all of them together does not guarantee complete safety of live food.


There are three main ways of storing live food: in natural form, in freezing or as a dried mixture. The natural appearance usually involves storage in a container with a small amount of water, where the purchased food is placed (this can be saved, in particular, by the bloodworm and the pipe worker). Such a bank is placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator and can be stored for several days without freezing.

In its natural form, the feed retains the maximum of its beneficial properties, but the long-term feed content in this form is impossible.


Frozen live food can be stored without damage to six months. However, they usually retain most of the nutritional components.

However, there is a need to allocate space in the freezer for storing such feed.

Drying is the most durable way. Daphnia, artemia and cyclops are usually exposed to it.

Drying can be carried out independently, using the oven or purchase ready-made dry food. Such live mixtures can be stored from six months to one and a half years, but the disadvantage of this method is the depletion of nutrients, as they are lost during processing.

Live food in aquarium: advantages and disadvantages

Live food usually consists of small worms and insects, their larvae or eggs that fish in the wild love to eat. They are also suitable for feeding the inhabitants of aquariums, as they contain a large amount of vitamins and trace elements necessary for the proper functioning of the body of fish.

The most common types of live food are: Daphnia, Artemia, Cyclops, Bloodworm and Tubber. Some of them are caught in wild waters in the natural environment.

It is also possible to breed live food for aquarium fish in special enterprises.

If you decide to feed your aquatic creatures with live food, you should consider a few points: first, due to the high degree of nutritional value, such food can lead to overeating in fish and even cause their death. This is especially true of feeding the bloodworm, so it should be given strictly metered. Secondly, if live food is used in its natural form (without drying or freezing), the uneaten larvae may eventually turn into insects.

That is, you need to give a dose of food that the fish can eat without residue. Finally, live food harvested under natural conditions can cause dangerous fish diseases.

Therefore, it is better to purchase food from proven vendors or one that is grown in an artificial environment.

live food PHOTO

Food that you feed your fish, is key to their health, activity, beauty. We will tell you about live feed for aquarium fish and how they affect your pets.
When it comes to feeding aquarium fish, now you have a huge selection. If you go to a pet store or bird market, you will find dozens of different commercial feeds for aquarium fish.

Flakes, granules, tablets, and all this with different compositions and formulas. However, besides them, there are still live, frozen, vegetable food.

And so that your fish are healthy and beautiful, it is better to feed them in a variety of ways, including live food in the diet. But, before you buy live food, it is better to find out what advantages and disadvantages it has, so it will be easier for you to make a choice.

Branded food – flakes, granules, pellets

Previously, living food had practically no alternative, but now artificial foods are used more and more often. Such feeds are made in such a way that they would supply the aquarium fish with the majority of the elements they need, but still, live feeds give much more. Live food contains a huge number of natural elements that artificial food can often not give.

Flakes, granules, tablets – they all lose some amount of nutrients during production and processing.

In addition, live food is much more attractive to fish because it is … alive. Some species of fish, such as butterfly fish, may generally refuse to feed that does not move.

Well, the advantages include that live food does not break up so quickly and can even live in the aquarium for some time, saturating the fish and does not adversely affect the quality of water.

But, like any thing in the world, virtues are a continuation of shortcomings. One of them is that they can be significantly more expensive than artificial ones.

Especially now, when summer can be abnormally dry and hot, and insects do not breed in the right quantities. As a matter of fact, a kilogram of a pipe worker on the market can cost much higher than a kilogram of selected meat …
The second and even more important thing is that live food is the first carriers of aquarium fish diseases. This is especially famous for the pipe maker, who lives in dirty, often waste waters and absorbs a lot of different nasty things.

In this case, freezing helps well, but it does not kill the pathogens by 100%.

And the last – live food, as opposed to artificial or frozen, stored a limited amount of time. If the same frozen food can be stored for months, or even years, then live days live, at best, weeks.
Oh, yes … Even women really do not like a variety of worms in their fridge and are very worried about finding them there …

If you ask yourself what kind of food is preferable, then the truth as always lies somewhere in the middle. The most reasonable thing is to make artificial high-quality food as the basis, and give live food regularly and regularly.

This kind of feeding will be optimal for your fish, as it is balanced, nutritious, and does not lead to obesity and disease. To feed the fish need to be diverse, periodically experimenting and adding something new to their diet.

Live food for aquarium fish is a complex of small invertebrates. If you want to grow healthy and beautiful fish, such food should be the main in the diet of pets.

The main advantage of living food is a sufficient amount of easily digestible proteins, vitamins, minerals. The disadvantages of such food – the risk to bring to the aquarium toxins, infection and parasites.

Therefore, there are a number of rules on how to properly handle such feed.

Daphnia are freshwater crustaceans that can be found in all freshwater bodies of water, especially with blooming water and in warm weather. Daphnia diet – algae, bacteria, other microorganisms. Daphnia is an excellent live food for fish and their fry.

It contains 50% protein, vitamins and minerals. You can get crustaceans in clean waters.

But there is also a risk of infection and parasites in the water. After collecting daphnia in nature, they should be stored in a jar of water in a refrigerator for 1-2 weeks.

Artemia are small crustaceans that are found in brackish waters. For feeding aquarium fish often use small larvae (nauplii) Artemia. Rachkov is easy to grow at home.

Choose a small tank with salted water and a compressor. Hand-grown artemia are safe for fish health.

Bloodworm, coretou, tubule are not characterized by security. Before feeding them to the fish, such feed should be properly processed.

What are the methods of disinfection? An effective way is ozonation, but not everyone can make an apparatus for the procedure. Available processing technologies of the above feed:

  • The use of the drug “Ichthyophor” in the proportion of 50 drops per 100 ml. Soak in the tool need half an hour.
  • Methylene blue – 30-40 drops per 100 ml of water, wetted in solution for 10-15 minutes.
  • A solution of potassium permanganate is light pink in color.
  • Metronidazole – 2 tablets per 10 liters of water.

If there are older aquarists in your family, among friends or acquaintances – those who kept the fish back in the Soviet era, the era of scarcity – then you should often hear from them how much easier it is for modern aquarium lovers.

Indeed, the stores now have a huge amount of equipment and medicines. The approach to the maintenance of aquariums has also changed: for example, a weekly full replacement of water in an aquarium is not required.

A huge assortment of aquarium fish, plants, invertebrates allows you to make the balance in the home pond perfect.

But most importantly – a huge selection of ready-made fish food appeared. Older generation aquarists had to spend a lot of time to prepare food for their pets, get moth and daphnia, get scarce ready food.

However, their experience can be useful and modern aquarium lovers, because the food prepared by their own hands is confidence in the quality and naturalness of the components, and, therefore, in its benefits for fish.

Cooked with their own hands from natural products, such food can be a complete substitute for not only dry food, but also live food. In terms of their nutritional value, they are not inferior to the highest-quality aquarium food, but will cost you much cheaper.

  • Beef heart. Grate frozen beef heart on the grater. Give, without washing, in small portions no more than once a day.
  • Egg. Pour the raw chicken egg into the cup, stir, slightly beating. Boil the water and pour the prepared egg in a thin stream in boiling water. Stir constantly while pouring. Finished egg catch net. Feed the fish in small portions.
  • Fresh frozen fish. Fish is grated or minced. Having spread the prepared mass into small containers, it can be stored for a rather long time in the freezer. Before use, it is recommended that the mass be thawed at room temperature, and given to fish in small quantities.
  • Boiled fish. The same method of cooking as fresh-frozen, the only thing is that you can chop food with just a knife. In both cases, it is better to use white lean fish, such as cod.
  • Shrimp, krill. Boil, cool, chop, rinse.
  • Milk. Boil the milk, cool it, separate the “foam” from its surface – the slime film. It will be food. Give crushed film in small portions.
  • Sour milk Prepare yogurt (for this, just give sour milk). Important: sour milk is not prepared from pasteurized, but from raw milk! The resulting mass rinse with whey. To do this, place it in a container with water, shake it, wait until the yogurt sinks to the bottom, drain the water. Repeat this several times. Washed sour milk is stored for a long time.

When feeding aquarium fish with natural protein food of its own preparation, it is important to give out food in small portions, and remove the remnants of the meal immediately after the completion of feeding from the aquarium. These feeds are very nutritious and deteriorate quickly, left in the water, they will begin to decompose and can cause a bacteriological explosion – turbidity of the water, diseases of the fish.

Protein feed is especially useful for predators, and boiled egg yolk is a classic feed for fry or very young small fish.

The method is usually somewhat laborious, but quite justified. It is difficult to challenge the use of live feed for aquarium fish, and if you breed them at home, you can be sure that such food is safe for your fish.

After all, the risk of introducing an infection into the home water reservoir, which is always to be feared when purchasing live or frozen food, is practically reduced to zero.

The basic rules for the cultivation of various cultures of live feed:

  1. Do not overdo it with nutrient substrate. With too abundant feeding, the culture begins to multiply rapidly, and then also die rapidly from lack of oxygen and poisoning by its own waste.
  2. Periodically replace the water in tanks where you breed live food.
  3. Do not keep the entire culture in the same container so that, in the event of the death of some part of it, to be able to easily resume the population from the backup distributor

Live food needed predatory and omnivorous fish. They can be bought at pet stores in dried or frozen form.

In the living, they can carry the infection. But if you plant them at home with your own hands, then the risk of bringing the disease will be minimal. The process of obtaining live food is long, but it justifies the expectations.

Homemade food is safe for fish.

How to grow live crops for fish:

  1. Do not overdo it with nutrients. If you strongly feed the culture, it will begin to multiply rapidly. This will lead to the death of its part due to oxygen deficiency and intoxication with its own waste products.
  2. Regularly make water changes in containers where live food is diluted.
  3. You can not keep all the culture in one container. If its part dies, the other can be restored in a backup hub.

Daphnia are microscopic crustaceans that are found in reservoirs with stagnant water. It is better to catch daphnids in ponds where there is no fish, so the probability of an infection in the aquarium will be low.

Daphnia caught caught in infused water with good aeration. Every day, change the fifth part of the water to fresh.

Lighting should be dim. Recommended temperature: 22-25 ° C.

You can feed the crustaceans with yeast, which is picked up in a pea batch, diluted in a spoonful of water, and added to the batch in water. If the water becomes cloudy – not scary. Daphnia can also be fed cabbage juice, carrots, beets – a teaspoon per 5 liters of water.

Crustaceans are very useful for aquariums – they quickly clear them from water blooming. In winter, they serve as food for fry.

Drosophila flies – are very easy to get divorced, as they are found in every home where there is a spoiled product. To dilute them, place in a closed razvodnik (glass jar) fruit puree, mixed with yeast and oatmeal.

The first insects will crawl out in 3 days, and in a week they will be enough to feed the fish.

When breeding aquarium fish is almost the main problem becomes their feeding. This whole process for a beginner aquarist involves a number of questions: what is the best way to feed your pets? how often should it be done, in what quantity? Is it possible to cook food for fish with their own hands?

The questions, we must admit, are non-trivial, and therefore let’s understand in order.

Errors in feeding aquarium dwellers are the main cause of their diseases, followed by death. To avoid mistakes in this crucial process, it is necessary to thoroughly examine what the representatives of this species of underwater fauna in the wild feed on. Many of them are omnivorous, that is, in their diet can be:

  • decaying organic matter;
  • the simplest;
  • underwater plants;
  • worms and insects;
  • representatives of other species of fish;
  • snails and crustaceans;
  • chopped fruits, vegetables, etc.

This, of course, makes the task easier, but among the fish you have acquired there will most likely be those that have live food in priority or, on the contrary, vegetable food, which means they should be fed accordingly.

The specific question of how much food should be given to the inhabitants of the aquarium requires a specific answer, and the conventional wisdom that it is better to underfeed than to overfeed your wards is wrong at the root.

In fact, both one and the other is bad for your aquarium pets. Systematically overfed fish will die sooner than those who are constantly undernourished – that is the difference.

Especially detrimental malnutrition for fry and young. To avoid these extremes, you must follow these rules:

The first. Reduce the amount of food, if your wards after a short time after feeding, not showing activity, crowd at the surface, and the water becomes turbid.

The second. With a clear weight loss of pets, their lethargy on the face of nedokorm.

Increase the portion or feed pets not 2, but 3 times.

Third. Watch the fish take in time for food: with a balanced diet, eating all or almost all of the food from the inhabitants of your home pond will take from 5 to 15 minutes.

Special attention should be given to the adequacy of feed for all the fish in the reservoir. In an aquarium, there may be those who are weak or less active by nature, so they may be constantly undernourished if you do not pay proper attention to this.

Feeding on the remaining crumbs from other fish, such fish will soon die very weak, completely weakened. Follow the process of feeding the fish, try to feed the weak inhabitants of the reservoir separately by placing food in close proximity to them.

The food of your wards should contain all the necessary components for their successful growth, development and reproduction:

This can be ensured by live, dry, frozen food that is sold in specialized stores. They are devoted to books, instructions for use, issued by their manufacturers. But that’s not all.

Quite successfully, you can feed your pets with food prepared on their own from ordinary foods.

Culinary delights are not all that a caring owner can do with their own hands for their beloved pets. As noted above, live food should be present in the diet of aquarium fish as the main source of protein.

But there is always the risk of bringing pathogens of fish diseases into your home water with live food. Therefore, it makes sense to grow their own zooplankton for their pets.

The case is troublesome at first glance, but it protects against contamination of aquarium water. So, it is decided – we grow.

One of the most important question for any living thing on the Planet is the question of food. Alas, for some reason, in most cases, with respect to aquarium fish, people forget about it and believe that having filled them with a pinch of daphnia or other food, this will be quite enough for their normal existence.

However, it is not!

The diet of any pet should be varied and correct. For example, people buy kittens and dogs for dry food, meat, chicken and milk with sour cream.

Moreover, they give vitamins and other supplements. The same should be the aquarium pets.

Their diet should be balanced. A beginner aquarist should not be afraid of “scary words”: live food, freezing, live dust.

No need to think that all this needs to get, grind and cook. Everything is much easier than it seems!

And in this I will try to convince you.

Group of fish




you need to read and study the literature about your fish. Find out their taste preferences and behavioral characteristics.
Having repulsed from the received information, it is necessary to select the appropriate dry feed, which can be divided into groups:



Flakes, plates (for feeding fish floating on the surface and in the water column)

Pellets (for larger fish)

Tablets (sinking food for catfish and other bottom fish)

There are other specialized fish food that are sold to pet stores, for example, to improve the color of fish or special food for a certain type of fish, for example, Discus Menu.
Based on my own experience, I want to advise you to take several types of feed at once and mix them in one can. This is due to the fact that aquariums usually contain different types of fish that require different feeding.

Mixing dry food of the same form, we get a kind of mix that is suitable for all fish.
When purchasing feed, you should also pay attention to the shelf life and packing density of the feed. This should be done due to the fact that over time, dry food loses its properties, and if packaging is violated (storage conditions), pathogenic flora will generally form in the food.

Also, one should give preference to feeds of well-known trademarks, for example, TM Sera or Tetra.

Secondly, when feeding aquarium fish you should not forget about vitamins, which go as an additive to food.
Vitamin A – necessary for cell growth, especially for fry and juveniles. Lack of this vitamin leads to slow growth and curvature of the back and fins.

Also, vitamin A reduces stress.
Vitamin D3 – participates in the development of the skeletal system.
Vitamin E – necessary for the reproductive system of fish. Vitamins A and E are used together because they are ineffective without each other.
Vitamins of group B (B1 – thiamine, B2 – riboflavin, B12) – normalize fish metabolism.
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) – forms teeth and bones, is involved in metabolism.
Vitamin H (biotin) – needed for cell development.
Vitamin M – lack of folic acid is expressed in the darkening of the color of the fish, they become sluggish.
Vitamin K – need for circulatory system.
Choline – needed for normal growth, as well as regulates the sugar content in the blood.
As a recommendation, you can recommend the following products:
Sera fishtamin
– emulsified multi-vitamin preparation for strengthening fish during and after diseases, after settling in a new aquarium, for breeding and for enriching the feed for fry with vitamins. sera fishtamin is also suitable for strengthening pond fish before and after hibernation.
It can be added directly to the aquarium water. However, it is better to add 6-7 drops to 1 fish in the feed a few minutes before feeding.
1. During the illness and after recovery of the fish, fishtamine should be added daily directly to the aquarium at the rate of: 6-7 drops per 50 liters of water. Aquarium lighting is desirable to turn off.
2. After possible stresses, such as transportation, placing fish in a crowded aquarium or in cases when incompatible types of fish are in the same aquarium, as well as with each water change, you need to add Fishtamin in the amount of 4-6 drops to feed. Fishtamine is added directly to the feed, which quickly absorbs the drug and after a short period of time can be used to feed your fish.
Fishtamine can be added directly to the aquarium at the rate of: 6-7 drops per 50 liters of water. It is advisable to turn off the aquarium lighting.
3. After relocating new fish to the aquarium, you need to quickly add Fishtamine directly to the aquarium from the calculation: 6-7 drops per 50 liters of water.
4. In order to breed, it is necessary to add Fishtamine before the spawning process begins and within ten days after the process starts directly to the fish feed at the rate of: 4-6 drops per 50 liters of water. It is necessary to wait some time until the drug is absorbed into the feed and then feed.
5. To improve the growth of fry, it is necessary to add Fishtamine directly to Micron, Micropan, Micrograin or Artemia solution once every two days, mix quickly and give enriched feed to the young fish. The daily dose of fishtamine can vary from one to five drops and depends on the amount of feed and the number of fry.
6. To enrich the frozen live feed with vitamins, immediately before feeding, add Fishtamine to feed at the rate of: three to four drops for each portion of feed after it is thawed. It is necessary to wait some time until the drug is absorbed into the feed and then feed.
7. To create optimal conditions for the existence of pond fish in late autumn, as long as the fish take food, and also in early spring, as soon as the fish begin to take food; for prophylaxis, as well as during the treatment of fish from viral diseases, fishtamine should be added daily for three weeks in a volume of 10-12 drops directly to the feed of pond fish. It is necessary to wait some time until the drug is absorbed into the feed and then feed.
Content of additives per 1 ml:
Vitamin A 500 I.E.
Vitamin B1 2.00 mg
Vitamin B2 2.00 mg
Vitamin B6 2.00 mg
Vitamin B12 2.00 mcg
Vitamin C 55.00 mg
Vitamin D3 100 I.E.
Vitamin E 5.00 mg
Vitamin K3 1.00 mg
Nicotinic acid 10.00 mg
Calcium Pantothenate 5.00 mg
Folic acid 0.50 mg
Tetra vital – provides the fish with vital energy and health, as well as a natural color.
Tetra Vital contains essential vitamins, minerals and trace elements characteristic of the natural habitat. Their content in the aquarium decreases with time, and tap water is not able to compensate for the loss.

Thanks to Tetra Vital, you can create an almost identical natural habitat for fish, where they will be provided with comfortable conditions and a brighter color.
– Natural B vitamins are used to increase the vitality of fish and combat stress.
– Magnesium provides well-being and promotes healthy growth.
– Panthenol cares for fish mucous membranes
– Iodine contributes to the preparation of fish for spawning, as well as successful spawning.
– Vital trace elements help to avoid problems associated with their deficiency
– Promotes the growth of plants and microorganisms
– Suitable for any freshwater aquarium.
To enhance the action of Tetra Vital, use Tetra AquaSafe.
Instructions for use. Shake well before use.

Add 5 ml of Tetra Vital to 10 liters of aquarium water every 4 weeks. In case of severe stress, it is recommended to double the dose.
Thirdly, the most important trick! This use of live and frozen feed.
Live food is a variety of mosquito larvae, small crustaceans and all kinds of worms that are used in feeding fish. The most popular of them are: bloodworm, artemia, sap, daphnia, tubule, rotifers, gammarus.

Live food is the most useful and natural food for fish, providing them with all the necessary microelements. Such feed is recommended to be used in conjunction with other types of feed and given 2-3 times a week.
The composition of some organisms used as live food Nowadays, especially in megacities and large cities, it is difficult to find high-quality live food for fish. It is also worth noting that, along with live food, it is possible to add “contagion” to the aquarium – pathogenic bacteria, fungi and viruses.

Therefore, you should always be careful with live food, it is better to grow it yourself and rinse thoroughly before serving. Knowing that many aquarists, especially the fair sex, do not like and are even afraid to mess with worms and larvae, I can recommend an interesting and even fascinating way of extracting live food Sera artemia-mixReady mix for growing Nauplii Artemia. Nauplii (cubs) of brine shrimp (Artemia) is a great delicacy for fry of all species of fish.

Adult fish and many invertebrates also greedily eat nauplii and adult shrimps. Artemia-mix is ​​a ready-to-use product.

All you have to do is pour the contents of the bag into 500 ml of water and air it. With this set, even people who have no experience in breeding live food can grow nauplii. The biological value of nauplii becomes even higher, due to the use of sea salt rich in minerals in sera Artemia-mix.

Artemia eggs from the great salt lakes of the state of Utah (USA) are used in the sera Artemia-mix – especially high quality.
Here is a detailed video of how to grow nauplii
Well, for those who do not want to mess around with live food at all, there is a ready-made live food freeze. Frost for fishB – it is ready-to-use, frozen and packaged live food.

Its charm lies in the fact that you do not need to “get” anything, you only need to get a cube of frozen food and throw it into the fish feeder.
+ such feed, manufacturers process it and monitor its purity. The probability to bring “contagion” in the aquarium is small.
as a result of processing, the beneficial properties of the feed are lost.
Note: Before serving, it is desirable to freeze it to thaw (10-15 min.)
And finally, the fourth trick – the food from our table. Here, look, please, the video posted by our moderator, Esta, about how her cichlids eat a leaf of lettuce.
Charming is not true! Many fish, especially cichlids, respect the greens: lettuce, spinach, scalded cabbage leaves, cucumber, and even carrots.

Many people know that keeping African cichlids with live aquarium plants is almost impossible. Nevertheless, they need plant food.

And such a leaf of lettuce, once or twice a week, is an excellent way out for tsikhlovykh.
Also, by the example of a user of our site Qper, it is worth highlighting the question of protein mixes made by yourself. For his precious and beloved cichlids, he cooks and gives the following mince once a week:
Here is such an appetizing pate! There are a lot of similar recipes and, if you wish, you can easily find them on the Internet.

The main thing is that in this way you can and should feed the fish.
You can make only one important remark about feeding fish like mince – you should try to exclude (minimize) the meat of warm-blooded animals from them. The food system of fish is not able to digest such meat, because of which it can develop pathogenic flora and as a result of the disease.

Minced meat containing warm-blooded animals should be given rarely as a delicacy.

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Scalar (Pterophyllum scalare) – description, content, breeding

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Black phantom (Hyphessobrycon megalopterus) – content, breeding

Family: Characteristic (Characidae). Habitats Central Brazil, the basin of the river Rio Guaporé forest forests ...

Barbus eight-strip (Eirmotus octozona) – content, breeding

Eight-bar / 8-bar glass barbus (Eirmotus octozona) SCHULTZ 1959 It was first described by Leonard ...

Iriaterina Werner family of iris – description, content

Iriaterina Werner (Iriatherina werneri) family of iris or melanotinyh – description, necessary parameters of the ...

Neon blue (Paracheirodon innesi) – content, breeding

Neon blue or ordinary (Paracheirodon innesi) Myers, 1936. Refers to the order Cyprinids (Cypriniformes), sub-order ...

Glass catfish (Kryptopterus vitreolus) – content, dilution

Glass catfish (Kryptopterus vitreolus) NG KOTTELAT, 2013. Previously mistakenly identified as (Kryptopterus bicirrhis). Kryptopterus: from ...

Eleotris carpet (Tateurndina ocellicauda) – content, breeding

Eleotris carpet / Peacock goby (Tateurndina ocellicauda) Nichols / Nichols, 1955 Family Golovoshkovye (Eleotridae). Carpet ...

Pelvicachromis pulcher (Pelvicachromis pulcher) – content, breeding

Pelvicahromis pulcher or Parrot (Pelvicachromis pulcher) – the most beautiful and therefore the most popular ...

Barbus Denison (Puntius denisonii) – content, breeding

Barbus Denison (Puntius denisonii) was first described in 1865, but became known only in 1997 ...