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Khilodus fish: rules for reproduction and maintenance in aquatic

Chilodus belongs to the Haracin family and is extremely rare in our aquariums. In nature, this fish lives in the rivers of the Rio Negro, Amazon and Orinoco.

Hydrobiont reaches 10 centimeters in length. Chilodus constantly swims upside down so that its body is located at a slight angle to the aquarium bottom.

To contain chilodus, you need an aquarium of 200 liters in volume, where it is necessary to organize dense thickets of aquarium plants and several swimming areas. The light in the aquarium should be moderate and the layout of the lamp should allow you to organize a shadow in one corner of the aquarium, and in the other bright areas.

Since these fish are gregarious inhabitants of the aquarium, it is advisable to acquire 10 to 15 fish. The behavior of the chilodus is peaceful and can be successfully maintained with various peaceful fishes from other families.

Only it is not advisable to move the chilodus to large cichlids, which are famous for their unpredictable temper and territorial inclinations. With regards to food, the hilodus eagerly eat bloodworms, tubule, cyclops and daphnia, both in frozen form and in live.

Unfortunately, reproduction of chilodus is a rather complicated process. To spawn, you must select a few pairs. Males should be of medium size, and females should show a characteristic abdomen.

To get the desired result, manufacturers need to keep in separate aquariums for two weeks and actively feed them with live food. As long as you keep the fish, you do not need to change the water in the aquarium and do not allow the temperature to rise above that at which you kept the fish in the general aquarium.

For breeding chilodusus you need a spacious aquarium with a water level of 20 to 30 centimeters. Water should be old and slightly peaty.

To get the desired stiffness value of 2 – 4 degrees, you can mix it with distilled. The active reaction of the medium should be in the range of 5.5 – 6.1 pH, and the temperature 25 – 28 degrees.

To keep as much caviar as possible, a separator grid should be installed at the bottom, which should cover 2/3 of the total bottom area, and in the middle of the grid it will be necessary to install a substrate for caviar (willow roots or a Thai fern).

Light in spawning should be weak and diffused. Over the course of one night, manufacturers should settle in a new place.

As a rule, spawning takes place on the following day after planting for spawning, but there have been cases when spawning was postponed. In cases of fish delays occur in the spawning aquarium.

The main thing is to ensure that all remnants of the uneaten food in a timely manner were removed from the aquarium.

The female spawns near the spawning substrate in a horizontal position. At the same time, the male begins to actively care for the female and tries to squeeze it stronger. The eggs themselves are small, the maximum diameter of the eggs is 1 millimeter.

But the number may be different, but, as a rule, ranges from 50 to 300 pieces. After one and a half hours, the eggs swell and reach sizes of about 3 millimeters.

Since the eggs are quite heapy, the eggs can be transferred with a hose to another aquarium, where they are carefully selected for 5 days. For this it is necessary to use glass tubes with melted ends.

Good and healthy eggs are transferred to the incubator, in which the height of the water column should be no more than 5 centimeters.

After four days through the shell of the egg, you can consider the already formed embryos, which, every day will show high activity. By this time, the caviar shell will become weak and the youngsters go out freely.

There were cases when the fry could not get out. If this is a long process, then an aquarist’s intervention is necessary.

To help the fish to spawn, you need to increase the water temperature by a couple of degrees, and you can also increase the aeration. After half an hour, the eggs begin to actively peck out.

When the majority of the young hatch from the eggs, the intensity of aeration in the aquarium should be reduced. Immediately after hatching, the fry acquire an upright position as parents, and within a few weeks can swim with both the tail and head first. Starter feed for chilodus fry – live dust and nauplii of Artemia.

As the fish grows, they should be transferred to larger feed types.

Hydrobionts grow fairly quickly, but not evenly. With a strong run-up in development, no symptoms of cannibalism were observed.

Mature fish become between 8 and 10 months old. In order to regularly receive full-fledged offspring, it is better not to separate already formed pair of producers. There are situations when you can not get offspring as a result of pair spawning.

In this case, long spawning is used, in which the most common aquarium plants should be grown.

Fish ready for spawning sail to the substrate, where spawning will occur. If the size and volume of the aquarium allows, in the general aquarium the fish can spawn from each other

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