Often aquarists complain that the carp-teeth have poor vitality and often die in their aquariums. And they are naturally to blame for the fish, which in nature live in quite extreme conditions and adapted to dramatic seasonal climate changes.
Why is that?
Why are sufficiently stable hydrobionts that live in nature in shallow ponds and puddles, turned out to be an unbearable burden for our aquarists? It turned out to be a matter of detention.
From aquarist fish require a specific approach to the content. That is, only to follow nature will be small, it will be necessary to make some adjustments with the program provided for by nature itself.
The simplest option for arranging an aquarium farm for small fish is the use of small tanks, ranging in volume from 3 to 5 liters, which will separately contain producers and young juveniles. Naturally, each aquarium should have aeration, the soil in this case is not necessary, unless, of course, it will not be needed as a substrate.
Such an economy has a number of advantages: you can fit all the banks in one large locker, where you do not need to install a huge number of heaters to maintain the optimum ambient temperature.
Add to this one compressor and lighting – that’s basically all. Incubators for caviar can be installed in the same cabinet, where a constant temperature will also be maintained.
It is also possible to provide cabinets with cultivators of live food.
But with all this, this economy has its own significant shortcomings. In spite of the fact that the kartozubye are not demanding on the quality of aquarium water, unlike other fish, the excessive content of nitrates and nitrites dissolved in water will not be good for them. Therefore, the aquarist will often have to replace the water.
Now try not for a moment to imagine how much time you have to kill every day for this operation.
But frequent substitutions are only a clear flaw that we see on the surface of the problem. A more serious point is the dramatic change in the behavior of fish when living in small tanks. Moreover, the behavior will change is not for the better.
Schooling fishes become fearful and they are overcome by constant stress. If territorial species are contained, then hypertrophied forms of aggression begin to manifest themselves: often the fish pursue their relatives and simply kill.
Therefore, all the boron cheese about the pursuit by males of females among the toothed ones is nothing more than the incorrect keeping of fish. The reason is small containers. You can verify this very simply – just put two pairs in a five-liter jar and forty pairs in a metric one.
Of course, not every amateur hobbyist has the opportunity to put ten 100-liter aquariums, so the best option I think would be to use 20-liter cans, and then, they are suitable only for small species. For larger representatives it is better to use aquariums of large volumes.
But even with the maintenance of karzubyh in large tanks, there is its own specifics. Banks must have a trough-shaped form, or they must be elongated in length. If schooling fish are contained, then banks with greater depth are needed, the presence of stones, rocks and tree roots near the side walls is obligatory.
Above the aquarium, be sure to cover with a cover glass, because the fish often jump out of the aquarium. Remove even minor cracks, as the fish with amazing dexterity leave their homes and end up on the floor.
In addition, in a large aquarium it is much easier to organize aeration, filtration, and there are more opportunities to create conditions close to natural ones. Be sure to install a filter, as it will accumulate residues of food, excreta and other organic dirt, which will increase the level of nitrates and nitrites. And as I said at the beginning of the article, they are not desirable for fish.
Every week it is imperative to replace the water in the aquarium with fresh water (1/3 of the volume), and remove unfiltered dirt and remnants of under-eaten fish food using a funnel.
But on the ground every aquarist must decide for himself. You can contain tooth-like ones without aquarium soil, but the bottom of the can should always be dark. In this case, the fish will not be so fearful shy.
As an aquarium substrate, it is preferable to use coarse sand or boiled peat chips. These types of substrate are the most common in the natural environment of these fish.
It is better to abandon the use of sour and uncooked peat, as it will constantly destabilize the biological balance in the aquarium.
If you pursue the goal of obtaining the required pH value using peat, it is better to abandon this venture. It is much easier then to do it with orthophosphoric acid. It is not necessary to use expanded clay or gravel as aquarium soil.
These two types of substrate are ideal for hydrophytes, but not for fish. But more experienced aquarists are advised to abandon the use of soils in tooth-to-water aquariums, as it will be much easier to maintain cleanliness in aquariums.
The substrate for spawning of short-tailed kartozubyh can serve as repeatedly boiled peat.
Absolutely all kartozubye love diffused and not bright light. The presence in the aquarium of floating aquarium plants (pistis or riccia) is welcome, as they will give shade in the aquarium.
With such an organization of lighting, the fish will feel comfortable and they will have a spectacular color.
I would like to say a few words about aquarium plants. Most species of kartozubyh live in nature in such water bodies where there is either no vegetation at all or it is very scarce.
But anyway, hydrophytes play an important role in the maintenance of these amazing fish. Their main function is a substrate for spawning, because females will lay eggs on them.
Caviar bushes can be safely removed from the aquarium and placed in a separate special container.
As for me, some types of aquarium plants can do very well without soil. The most ideal option is a Thai fern with a dense root system.
The second excellent option is Javanese moss, which under good conditions of maintenance can turn into a huge bundle. These two plants can perfectly develop in an aquarium with poor lighting, which is exactly what we need.
From floating plants you can use Ricci and Ceratopteris thalictroides. They are unpretentious and can grow without problems in any bank.
Another important function that the plants perform is a refuge for fry. Riccia is especially useful as the fry feel at home in it.
Moreover, infusoria are started in riccia, which the fry will eat.
And a few words about other aquarium attributes of the decor. Of course, if you have a small aquarium, then the presence of a large number of decorations in it will be simply ridiculous. But if the aquarium is solid, then you can use any element of decor: stones, snags, pots and coconuts.
The main thing is not to forget that if you have tropical inhabitants, the presence of rocks in the aquarium will not be the topic. And on the contrary, if you have schooling fishes, then you do not need to densely plant a jar of grass that even there will be no place for swimming.
Here you have to rely on your common sense.
It seems to be the time with the temperature of the water in the aquarium with a toothfish has long been resolved. Most sources say that fish should be kept at a temperature of 18-24 degrees. This is our standard room temperature, and if the heater is needed, the thermostat will already be superfluous.
The above has the right to exist, but if not one big “BUT”. For some species of kartozubyh such water temperature simply contradicts the natural conditions.
I’ll explain why.
The fact is that some Notobranchus are inhabitants of the dry savannah. That is, they are representatives of annual fish. Their entire development life cycle from fry to adult individuals occurs during the rainy season and affects the drought season a bit.
The water temperature during the rain is insignificant, only 14-16 degrees, but by the time fish matures, it rises to 35 degrees during the day, and never falls below 25 degrees at night. Accordingly, it would be quite logical to keep Notobranchus in aquariums, where the water temperature is kept around 30 degrees.
However, few aquarists stick to this path. Most fans bred and contain notobranchius at a standard temperature of 22-24 degrees. The reason is only one, they say, high temperature, which shortens the life of the fish, which is so small.
And by lowering the temperature of the water we are deceiving nature.
But oddly enough, for deceiving nature will have to pay dearly: the fish will become more susceptible to various diseases. For example, all the same nobranchuses with a decrease in water temperature are prone to oodiniosis, which is destructive for these fish.
As you can see, of two evils, the lesser is chosen.
Well, now a few words about the hardness of water. In his work, Seegers wrote that notobranchusa live in biotopes, where the total hardness is 3-4 degrees, and carbonate – no more than three. The researcher conducted all measurements in various regions of Africa where fish were caught.
Again, against this background, we are beginning to confront nature. The rigidity of our tap water rarely falls below 8 degrees, often this figure stays within 12-15 degrees.
If you are guided by the experience of hardened kartozubyh razvodchiki, then for most species our tap water is quite normal. To reduce the stiffness you can boil it, it is at your request.
However, in boiled water there will not be such a concentration of oxygen. Therefore, before planting fish in such water, it must be intensively flushed with oxygen.
Some aquarists say nonsense that it will be worse to fertilize in hard water. As a rule, a huge number of unfertilized eggs speaks not about hard water, but about the poor quality of producing fish, or, in water, an excess of dissolved organics.
If the producers are weak and sick, then the caviar can die all.
But the acidity of water plays a more significant role in the life of tooth-rich ones. Here the aquarist must adhere to the natural parameters. If you keep fish that live in a weakly acidic environment, the water in the aquarium should not have a pH greater than 7, and vice versa.
For acidification of water, you can use weakly boiled peat chips or peat extract.