maintenance, care, compatibility
Sooner or later, for one reason or another, any aquarist is faced with the need to restart the aquarium. I would like to share with you my experience of restarting an infected aquarium, from which I have left indelible impressions.
I have never had such a quick, lightning arrangement of the reservoir, I had to, like a Cinderella in a hurry to the ball, redo a thousand cases in a matter of moments.
The company where I work has a bar-restaurant in its infrastructure. 5 years ago, as an action, one of the largest pet stores in my city installed an aquarium in a bar and undertook to regularly serve it. Alas, as it usually happens, the pet shop workers came a couple of times, cleaned the aquarium and that’s it!
The aquarium completely “fell” on the shoulders of the bar workers, who somehow watched him, all the time remaining. This winter, due to production needs, the bar was closed for three months.
In the spring with the beginning of the season the bar opened.
And so, once, passing by the bar, I noticed the aquarium, which already looked like a swamp! I have never seen such a crap pond.
Everything, everything, everything. it was green, even the ground was covered with a green carpet. A decaying fish feed was floating near the bottom – it looked like slop in a piglet’s tub. Filters did not work, aeration, respectively.
The fishes – two shifters, five eluos and one scalar, and two acystrus at an accelerated pace slammed their mouths at the surface of the water, trying to take in a little bit of fresh air. The fish were stunted and sick; one shifter was completely swollen from abdominal dropsy.
In short – full AHTUNG!
Photo of the aquarium in the bar (sorry photographed with a mobile phone, the whole horror is not transmitted)
After weighing all the pros and cons, I went to the Directorate and gave a demonstration performance:
“On the slaughter and care of the Lord for the destroyed aquarium souls.” In the final speech, I began to insist that the aquarium be given to me, that I am the best way out of this situation, that they will be indulgences for that.
The management approved the proposal, but said: “We need to think that the aquarium attracts visitors.” Since you can’t argue with the management, I left the office, but I definitely decided to finish this issue.
For two days I walked in circles around the aquarium and the office of my management – I was waiting for the “right moment”. And so, last Friday, at lunch the “moment” has arrived.
Welcome to the export of the aquarium was received! And then how it all went, went …
TRANSPORTATION OF THE “PATIENT” AQUARIUM
It was impossible to delay and postpone the transportation of the aquarium! The fish were already on their last legs.
Pulling on the pants on the leotard, and pretending to be a superman, I began to rush along the whole coast, where the bar stands. Organized driver, bartender, dishwasher and waiters.
I took a long hose on the yacht, in the kitchen there was a container for fish transplanting. All boil.
The water from the aquarium was drained, the equipment and décor was packed … and the fish were already sitting in the container and watched with fright as everyone rushed around!
All this action was accompanied by the dishwasher’s moralizing advice on how to care for the fish: “You should pour fresh water for them”, “You’ll put bulbs on them for the water, they aren’t whimsical to water … they don’t pour vodka and wine there either …” . Hair bristled by such unspeakable atrocities!
As the water merged and all the stinky soil was collected, three sailor-loader grunting dragged the aquarium into the car, since it was a roomy Ford transit. The aquarium was put on original piles and a gasket was laid on all sides (chair covers, cellophane, etc., which came to hand).
The car started and we drove … slowly, somewhere 30-40 km / h. so as not to shy the aquarium.
Upon arrival home, at the entrance there was already a pre-organized rapid response team — friends who helped plant the aquarium and all the aquarium belongings on the “15th” floor.
The clock struck 19.00, alas, all the pet stores were closed, and there was no home hydrochemistry at home. Therefore, the oxygen was given to the fish, a bit of methylene blue and Tetra counterstrips were dripped into the water, and preparatory measures were taken to install the aquarium for tomorrow.
HOW IT IS CORRECT TO NEED TO START THE AQUARIUM FIRST TIME.
Even before the launch procedure, it is necessary to solve a number of critical issues and take some necessary steps:
- Decide what kind of fish or aquatic animals you want to have. Find out what conditions they need. Be sure to find out if they are compatible with each other!
- Depending on the decisions on the first item, choose the volume and model of the aquarium, as well as a list of necessary equipment and design items. Based on the species and number of future inhabitants, decide whether you need a heater with a thermostat, for example, how powerful the filter should be, whether an additional compressor is needed, how to decorate an aquarium: stones or driftwood, which plants to plant and so on.
- Choose a place for the aquarium – not in the draft and not in the sun. It is also important that access to the aquarium was convenient, and there were a sufficient number of outlets nearby.
- Buy and install an aquarium (necessarily on a flat surface, so that its edges do not hang from the shelf or pedestal even per centimeter). Pre-aquarium washed without the use of chemical detergents.
- Place the equipment in the aquarium: filter, compressor, heater and thermometer, lighting. Fill the soil with a layer of 3-4 cm. Depending on the type of soil and its source of origin, it may be necessary to pre-heat it, boil it or rinse it. The same applies to stones and snags.Ground and scenery.
As a rule, the entire future ecosystem of your aquarium depends on the purity of the soil and scenery. Therefore, it is necessary to treat its processing especially carefully: rinse well with soda or sea salt, boil the soil, and ruthlessly refuse it, if the water suddenly becomes colored – this can further harm the fish. The most optimal soil size -3-5-8 mm.
- All that is smaller – caking and sour very quickly, larger – it is harder to clean and rinse. Yes, and plants on coarse soil will be a little more difficult to root. As a rule, if live plants are planned in your aquarium, it is advisable to place a nutrient composition for future vegetation under the ground, and the ground itself should be dispersed on a slope from the back wall to the front.
- This is done taking into account certain optical properties of aquarium glasses, because through the thickness of glass and water the aquarium landscape looks somewhat different. When decorating and setting up housing for your future pets, do not get carried away with sea shells and pieces of limestone – the entire chemical composition will gradually be washed out and excessively alkaline the water, which also may not well affect the health of future fish. and other decoration elements are installed,
it’s time to fill your pond with water. If an aquarium is planned to be in the form of an air wall in the aquarium, it is also worthwhile to think in advance whether it will lie on the ground or whether it should be fixed under the ground at the bottom. Water is poured in a small trickle, so as not to destroy the landscape that you conceived. For example, you can put a small tank in an aquarium into which water will flow, and it will merge gradually over the edge. Plants.
A few days later, when the water settles, it’s time to plant the plants. Of course, if you are in a hurry, water can be prepared with the help of special tools, now there is an excellent choice and variety in pet stores. But it is quite possible to do without chemistry, allowing the ecosystem to develop naturally and independently. But then it will take time. Before planting, all new plants that you have brought from the store or another aquarium should be sanitized. To do this, it is enough to hold the plants for 10-15 minutes in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate at room temperature. Tall plants, densely growing, are best planted closer to the rear window of the aquarium, and in the future they will partially hide the equipment. Small plants are planted near the front glass so that they do not obscure the view. Not all plants root well. Some of them, in order not to emerge, have to be weighed down with special “weights”, or they must be fastened with fishing line on snags.
It is not necessary to load your future aqua-system with a large amount of equipment, but the main points must still be observed:
Filter pump. Its main function is the purification of water from dirt, turbidity and all that floats in water. The filter can be internal, as a very primitive, consisting of a piece of sponge, and more complex – with carbon filtration, and external – with a complex multi-stage water purification system.
The main thing is that it should be correctly selected for the volume of your aquarium, and cope with the task of cleaning.
Initially, the water is always quite turbid. This is a normal process, and if the filter is chosen correctly in terms of volume, it will cope with this within a few hours.
But soon after planting in your tank, complex biological processes will begin, and the water will again lose transparency: bacteria will begin to develop on the dying parts of the plants, ciliates will follow them … In general, as in Cosmos, Life begins to emerge in the aquarium. That is why experienced aquarists are not in a hurry to start running the fish right away – biological balance must be established in the water.
The rapid growth of microorganisms will stop, and the water will again become transparent.
Sometimes experienced aquarists are advised to take some water from old aquariums, or “squeeze” out of their filters. But even if the old aquarium fish are not sick, it does not mean that the water is free from pathogens.
Most likely in this system everything is already settled, and the fish have developed a certain stability. But in the new conditions, pathogens can start to develop very actively.
Therefore, do not do this.
Aerator, or compressor. His task is to saturate the water with oxygen. In essence, a compressor is a pump that pumps air and delivers it to the water through the nozzles.
But at the same time, it also has a decorative function. Therefore, it is decided in advance whether it will be a thin stream of bubbles, decorated additionally or a whole air curtain.
The choice of sprayers and compressors is now huge!
Lighting will depend on which direction of the aquarium you have chosen. If you plan to fish with artificial plants – the quantity and quality of light is not important, everything will depend on your taste. If you have live plants, there is no way to do without additional lighting.
Most often, aquariums are already sold with fluorescent lamps when sold, but for plants the most optimal will be lamps with a pink spectrum.
As a rule, if there is enough light, the plants quickly take root and actively start growing.
If the light is not enough, the glass and the ground are covered with brown bloom, if there is an excess of light, the water turns green.
You can put the lighting with a timer. Then you won’t have a headache – did you remember to turn the lights on or off …
Heater with thermostat. As a rule, aquarium fish, like other aquarium animals, live in nature in warm lands, and are not adapted to the climate of our (not always well heated) apartments. The optimum temperature is mostly 22-24 degrees, and in some species and higher.
Therefore, a heater with a thermostat is very convenient – just set the required temperature.
Without a heater is still not enough if the fish suddenly fall ill. With an increase in temperature in the aquarium to 28-30 degrees, treatment with drugs is faster and more efficient, and in a shorter time.
The aquarium is equipped, the plants are planted and are actively growing, the water has settled in a week and has become clear … It’s time to think about the fish.
But first check the water.
Water hardness test. Different groups of fish prefer different hardness.
Based on the test results, you can pick up fish that you will feel comfortable with, or vice versa, change the water hardness for those fish that you have chosen.
There are also other tests. All of them are important in order to find your way in time, what is the state of water in your tank, and what needs to be changed to make the fish feel good.
With the parameters of the water coped, finally you can run the first batch of fish. Initially, they should not be many: 3-5 fish, depending on the size of the aquarium. Each new portion of fish necessarily breaks the existing balance, and the aquarium, as a complete biosystem, is easier to cope with the arrival of a small number of residents than to rebuild under a big surge of guests.
But between the launch of the next portion of fish should take at least a week. So, with intervals between batches, we gradually settle the aquarium, without forgetting
before releasing the fish adapt.
How to properly adapt?
Many people advise you to put a tank with new fish “swim” into your aquarium so that the temperature and pressure level up, and gradually the water mixes with the aquarium. Yes, for fish so stress is reduced to a minimum, but then you risk on a package with beginners to bring pathogenic bacteria into your tank. Much more correct, although it will be somewhat longer in time if you place a tank with a new fish near your aquarium.
Having installed the compressor, within two hours it is necessary to add 20% of water from your aquarium into it every 10-15 minutes. So the water will gradually be completely replaced by the desired composition. After that, it will be enough just to transplant fish with a net.
Finally, the planned number of fish settled, the balance of water restored, life enters a quiet course. Do not forget to make them fasting days, as the plants are not yet ready to fully process organic food residues.
And in the future, such discharge once a week will only benefit. It is always better to underfeed than to overfeed.
Water changes are advisable to do regularly, every week about 20% of the total.
So, if your fish is active, the color does not become paler, and the appetite does not suffer – it means you did everything right. We congratulate you!
You have created a piece of nature with your own hands and patience, which will give you a lot of pleasant moments, give beauty, comfort and peace.
The right aquarium: what you need to consider when choosing, running and arranging
The aquarium is not a picture, hanged and admired. This is a daily care and care.
It is difficult to call an aquarium right if the fish are fed only dry food, and aquarium plants are not fed with trace elements. Do not forget about the usual care for the aquarium: changing the water, cleaning the walls of the aquarium, siphon of the soil, washing the filter, etc.
There are other nuances that speak about the correctness of the aquarium. For example, the presence of a UV sterilizer, ozonizer, cooler, cooling system or CO2 system will speak of you as an advanced aquarist. In addition, many aquarium devices can be done with your own hands!
The exact same phyto filtering that anyone can do will have a favorable effect on the “health” of any aquarium.
Based on the foregoing, you can derive some formula
THE RIGHT AQUARIUM
This aquarium of 100 liters, rectangular shape.
With the right equipment:
– aeration (preferably versatile)
– filtering (multistage)
– heater (with thermostat)
– lighting (sufficient power and the desired spectrum)
The design and arrangement of the “right aquarium” as close as possible to the natural, natural habitat of a particular type of fish.
In the correct aquarium, the rules of compatibility of aquarium fish are observed, the parameters of water and the status of hydrobionts are regularly monitored.
In the correct aquarium, there is more specific equipment that improves the quality of the reservoir and the life of the fish.
And most importantly, aquarism, and any other human activity, will always be right – if it is done with love.
Muddy aquarium: from what and why the water becomes cloudy, what to do
Preparations eliminating mechanical turbidity in an aquarium
If the clouding of a young aquarium is forgivable to an aquarist, then dregs in the old pond are his sin! Violation of the biobalance in well-established water bodies is often due to oversight, due to the lack of basic care, due to ignorance or unwillingness to know what is happening in the aquarium.
The exculpatory causes of the clouding of the old aquarium are “whiteness after the treatment of fish”, that is, when aquarium chemistry and preparations were used in the aquarium. Like any “medicine” aquarium chemistry has side effects, in particular the violation of biological equilibrium.
What happens in the old aquarium? Why does the water grow cloudy in it?
And almost the same thing happens as in a young aquarium. But, if I may say so, in regressive order.
To make it even clearer to you, let’s break the aquarium biological chain into links. NITROGEN CYCLE is as follows.
“DIRT AND TRASH”
(remnants of dead organics, fish food, feces, etc.)
decompose under the action of bacteria in
AMMONIA / AMMONIUM
(the strongest poison, destructive for all living things)
under the action of another group of bacteria is decomposed into
NITRITES, and then NITRATES
(less dangerous, but also poisons)
further decompose to
and out of the aquarium water
As you understand, this process is multistage and has its own nuances.
For those that want to study it in more detail, I recommend to go to the forum thread NITRITES AND NITRATES IN THE AQUARIUM. And now imagine what will happen in the old aquarium, if one of the links, for one reason or another, falls out?
That’s right – dregs! Sorry for the tautology))) Unlike the dregs in a young aquarium, the turbidity in the old aquarium not only spoils the appearance of the aquarium, but is also very dangerous.
The following happens: under the influence of non-excreting poisons, the fish’s immunity weakens, their protective mechanisms weaken and become unable to resist the “harmful” – pathogenic bacteria and fungi (which are always in the water). As a result, the fish gets sick and if you do not conduct treatment in time, the fish dies. Thus, we can conclude that the violation of biological balance is the primary cause of the death of aquarium fish.
In fairness, it should be said that the saturation of aquarium water with excess ammonia, nitrite and nitrate – can occur without turbidity of the aquarium water. What is even worse, because the enemy is invisible.
HOW TO GET RID OF BIOLOGICALLY DISTURBED AQUARIUM
or how to set up biobalance
First of all, you need to make regular cleaning in the aquarium, do not overfeed the fish. Remember that only the constant and correct replacement of aquarium water to fresh water is an effective way to get rid of poisons.
ATTENTION: To replace the water in a young aquarium, in order to get rid of turbidity is not necessary. In the first month, the water in a young aquarium generally needs to be tried less often and in smaller volumes.
Water should “infuse.”
Drugs that eliminate the biological clouding of the aquarium – preparations setting biobalance:
Almost all aquarium brands in their arsenal have a line of products that customize the biological balance.
The essence of these drugs can be divided into those that:
– neutralize poisons (nitrites and nitrates);
– promote the growth of colonies of beneficial denitrifying bacteria or are a ready concentrate of these bacteria.
To achieve the maximum effect, you should use these drugs in a complex. Especially with a flash of nitrite and nitrate.
Preparations that neutralize nitrites and nitrates Zeolite is an ion exchanger, in fact, as well as aquarium coal is an absorbent. But, unlike coal, which is not able to “tighten” nitrites and nitrates, zeolite copes with it perfectly. Zeolite is used not only in aquarism, it is widely used in other areas of human life.
Therefore, it can even be bought by weight.
Zeolites are a large group of similar in composition and properties of minerals, aqueous aluminosilicates of calcium and sodium from the subclass of frame silicates, with glass or pearlescent gloss, known for their ability to give and reabsorb water, depending on temperature and humidity. Another important property of zeolites is the ability to ion exchange – they are able to selectively release and reabsorb various substances, as well as exchange cations.
Aquarium preparations containing zeolite.
Fluval zeo-carb – filler for filters zeolite + activated carbon.
This is a combination of Fluval activated carbon and Fluval Ammonia Remover. Working together, these highly effective means of active filtration, which eliminate pollution, odors and color, and at the same time, remove toxic ammonia:
– Protects aquarium from toxic ammonia.
– At the same time, coal adsorbs waste products, dyes and drugs from water.
-Reduces the phosphate content in water.
The combination of the two products frees up space in your filter for other types of filtering.
Aquael ZeoMAX Plus – zeolite in the form of small crumb, removes ammonia and phosphates, stabilizes pH.
Due to its chemical structure, it provides excellent absorption of organic pollutants, nitrogenous compounds and phosphates that are toxic to fish, which are a consequence of the metabolism of aquarium inhabitants.
Zeolite should not be left in the filter for more than one month.
For more information about the advantages and disadvantages of zeolite, see the forum thread “Nitrites and nitrates”, namely HERE.
The drug acting at the chemical level.
Sera toxivec – a drug that at the chemical level instantly eliminates NO2NO3. Since this is chemistry, it is recommended to use it as a preventive measure and once.
Immediately removes hazardous contaminants, life-threatening fish and filter bacteria, from aquarium water. Equal effectiveness against different types of pollutants makes this tool especially valuable.
Sera Toxivec instantly eliminates ammonia / ammonia and nitrites. Because of this, it prevents their transition into nitrates and helps prevent the growth of irritating algae.
In addition, Sera Тoxivec eliminates aggressive chlorine from tap water. Also effective as a disinfectant disinfectant and medication remover.
At the same time, it is capable of even more: it binds toxic heavy metals such as copper, zinc, lead, and even mercury. Therefore, these pollutants can not harm the fish and beneficial bacteria in the biofilter.
Due to this, the frequency of water changes can be reduced.
If necessary, for example, with particularly high levels of contamination, an increase in the applied dose of the agent is allowed. Repeated depositing is allowed in one or two hours.
Drugs that promote the growth of beneficial colonies
bacteria or are ready concentrate bacteria Tetra Bactozym – This conditioner, accelerating the process of stabilization of biological equilibrium, in the filter and aquarium. Suitable for fresh and sea water.
Tetra Bactozym accelerates the conversion of nitrites to nitrates and contains a concentrate of enzymes and substances that contribute to the development of beneficial aquarium microflora. It makes water crystal clear and provides enzymatic decomposition of dissolved organics.
The use of an air conditioner reduces the damage done to the beneficial microflora when changing water and washing the filters, and restores microorganisms that are weakened or damaged by the use of medicines.
We draw your attention to the fact that biostarters contain various types of cultures of bacteria and enzymes. Too high or low temperatures reduce their effectiveness.
Tetra NitranMinus Perls (granules) – for reliable reduction of nitrate in water. The drug eliminates the nutritional element necessary for the development of algae, which allows for a long time to improve water quality, reducing, thereby, the need for care of the aquarium.
– lowering the level of nitrates by 12 months by biological means.
– algae growth is significantly inhibited.
– just buried in the ground.
Tetra NitrateMinus (liquid conditioner) – biological reduction of nitrates, calculated for 12 months. Improves water quality. Interferes with formation and growth of seaweed (duckweed).
Designed for all types of marine and freshwater aquariums.
Convenient dosing: 2.5 ml of new liquid NitrateMinus for every 10 liters of water, once a week.
Like NitrateMinus in granules (Pearls), liquid NitrateMinus facilitates the processing of nitrates into nitrogen and lowers carbonate hardness. A decrease in nitrates by 60 mg / l leads to an increase in carbonate hardness of approximately 3 KH. With regular use of the drug after replacing water, the pH of the water stabilizes and the risk of falling acidity decreases.
Fully compatible, NitrateMinus is based on biological processes in an aquarium and is completely safe for fish. It combines perfectly with TetraAqua EasyBalance and other Tetra products.
Sera bio nitrivec (Sera bio nitrivek) – preparation for quick start aquarium. Special blend of various high-quality cleansing bacteria for aquariums. Sera nitrivek prevents the accumulation of ammonium and nitrite.
The use of Sera nitrivek makes it possible to place the fish in the newly created aquarium already 24 hours after application. When entering the water bacteria
begin to act immediately. The resulting effect is stored in
For a long time, giving a crystal water aquarium water.
There are other drugs of identical orientation. I recommend sharing Tetra Bactozym and Tetra NitranMinus Perls.
And when using NO2NO3 flashes, use zeolite.
How else can you achieve a “good biobalance”?
– Biological equilibrium is more stable if live aquarium plants are present in the aquarium. Plants partially absorb the decay elements of living organics and thereby reduce their concentration.
The more aquarium plants, the better. I recommend to read the article. AQUARIUM PLANTS ALL FOR BEGINNERS.
– Aquarium snails and fish “orderlies” will help you in cleaning the aquarium. “Squad” of the same coil snails copes with dying leaves and organic matter. Fish nurses also help in this matter. The majority of aquarium catfish can be attributed to them: corridors, antsistrusy, girinoheiliusy, aquatic sequences, thoracacums, and many others.
– It is advisable to use multistage filtration of aquarium water. And also use other methods that improve water quality, for example, phyto filtration.
How to clean the aquarium – the secrets and tricks
How many articles have been written about this, how much has been said … but still people are interested in this question. Our site also has a fairly comprehensive article that HOW TO WASH THE AQUARIUM.
In this article I would like to pay attention to the ways and means of cleaning the aquarium.
So, first of all the walls (glass) of the aquarium are cleaned. This action should be carried out in the event that the walls of the aquarium rummaged, for example, green dots or brown patina.
To do this, you can use special magnetic scrubs or brushes for aquariums. Like these ones:
Such magnetic brushes for an aquarium, very well cope with their task –