Each aquarist is plagued by algae, which cover the scenery, soil, snags, stones and glass. In addition, aquatic plants suffer from the inferior.
Spores of algae fall into the home aquarium with food, fish and decorative elements, which were taken from a natural pond. If conditions are favorable, the algae you will develop at the speed of thought.
Let’s figure out how to get rid of algae.
After the launch of the aquarium there is the highest probability of active development of algae, because the plants are still weak and simply cannot compete with the lower ones, which take all the nutrients from them. For this reason, it is not advisable to colonize the fish after the launch, because the plants have not yet begun to actively feed, and the beneficial bacteria are not yet performing their functions of processing waste products.
Significantly less likely to cause algae in the home aquarium, if you provide a dense planting of higher plants, in particular fast-growing long-stem (kabomba, limnofila water, hygrophilic multi-seed, peristolistnik Brazilian, rovolistnik). After some time, when the balance in the aquarium is adjusted, these plants can be partially replaced by slow-growing ones.
Before considering certain types of algae, let me say a few words about a few common points in the fight against these pests.
To begin with, you must understand that algal fouling does not like being bothered. Accordingly, in order to deliver maximum problems to pests, you must mechanically remove them from the aquarium several times a day.
If these are filamentous algae, then you can use a toothbrush or a rough wooden stick to remove them.
The second way is to block access to nutrients. To do this, it is necessary to darken the aquarium, turn off aeration, filter and not do a partial substitution until the algae disappear completely.
Aquatic plants, as they are more resistant, will survive in such conditions, but it is better to remove the most valuable specimens from the aquarium. This method requires a lot of patience from an aquarist and may take several weeks, and premature switching on of the light can negate all the work.
Of course, you can feed the fish at this time, just make sure that everything is eaten.
Another proven method is to stimulate the growth of higher plants in order to suppress the development of algae. In this case, it is necessary to increase the number of aquatic plants, reduce the population of the aquarium, increase the intensity of lighting and increase the length of daylight hours to 12 hours.
In addition, every day you will have to clean the soil and replace 1/10 of the volume with fresh water.
Most algae species are destroyed by copper sulfate. A solution is prepared from copper sulphate with a proportion of 1 gram of sulphate per liter of volume.
Before you put the solution into the aquarium, you must remove all the fish from it. It is added to water at the rate of 1 to 10 ml per liter of water.
To begin with, try a low concentration, and if you have not received a positive result, the dose should be increased. When the algae die completely, the water must be completely changed several times, and only then the fish will start.
On sale you can find a variety of drugs to combat algae, which are used in strict compliance with the instructions. Some types of algae can be destroyed with the help of aquarium fish.
Of course, completely mollies or swordtails will not eat you all the unwanted greens, but in part they will spoil their life.
And now let’s briefly look at the most common types of algae that most often inhabit our aquariums.
- Green algae or Protokokkus. They are microscopic globular fouling that form a light green bloom on the aquarium glass in an aquarium. They are easily removed with a scraper.
- Siphon algae are formed on the walls of the aquarium, which are located under direct sunlight and represent a dense dark green carpet of filaments. They are also removed from the aquarium with a scraper.
- Ulotriks – represent light green thin threads which form a ball. With the help of their threads algae are interconnected and can completely cover the walls of the aquarium and the ground. They can be removed from the aquarium with a rough wooden stick and after the peak of their development, the alga will go away by itself.
- Cladophores are attached to solid surfaces (stones, leaves of plants, and snags) and form 3 centimeter bushes in the form of a gray-green bloom on the chosen surface. You can remove the cladofoor with tweezers.
- Microscopic algae floating in a suspended state can stain water in yellow-green or bright green colors. To successfully deal with such pests, it is necessary to darken the aquarium. In some cases, daphnids successfully launched themselves, running large quantities into an aquarium.
- Hitch. These algae are very similar to the “green” counterparts, but the most common of this type are filamentous algae (Spirogyra), which, thanks to their thin and strong green threads, are attached to plants. The main reason for their appearance – very bright lighting. They can be mechanically removed from the aquarium by winding threads on a rough stick or a toothbrush.
Dutch colleagues struggled with the thread in a rather interesting way. Argus was launched into the aquarium, which was happy to eat algae. However, the size of this fish implies the presence of a large aquarium.
In addition, when all the algae are destroyed, argus can easily tackle the tops of long stem plants with delicate leaves.
- Blue-green algae. They can populate the aquarium in record time and are able to cover the scenery, soil and plants with the odor-smelling mucous coating. The impetus for the active growth of this algae is intense lighting and excessive concentration of nitrogenous compounds (the reason for this can be rare water changes and dirty soil). If you notice the first signs of the appearance of blue-green algae in your tank, you must remove them from the tank with a hose, the ground is thoroughly cleaned and a partial water change in the amount of 1/3 of the total is made.
To destroy the spreading blue-green algae, you can use the following methods:
- The active reaction of the medium should be less than 6 pH, frequent water changes when removing fish;
- Add penicillin concentration of 10 000 units per liter of water, and after two days 2500 units per liter of water;
- Add to the aquarium a 3 percent solution of boric acid at the rate of 30 ml of acid per 100 liters of water;
- Add streptomycin to the aquarium at the rate of 3 mg per liter of water;
- Frequent complete water changes (just do not forget to remove the fish from the aquarium);
- For several evenings, a solution of bicillin-5 in a concentration of 10,000 units per liter of water for a clean aquarium, 20,000 units in a heavily polluted aquarium is brought into an unlit aquarium. After a week in the aquarium, you need to replace 1/3 of the water with fresh water several times.
- Diatoms occur when there is insufficient light and represent a brown coating on the soil, plants and walls of the aquarium. To kill the algae you need to increase the light and increase the length of daylight hours.
- Purple or red algae are known for their accelerated reproduction rates and can easily spread to a large aquarium in a few days.
The flip-flop has the appearance of black-green tassels, the length of the threads of which varies from 5 to 20 millimeters. Algae securely attached to the leaves of plants and are able to fully cover the leaf in a short period of time. Vietnamese can be fought in several ways:
- Carbon dioxide supply to the aquarium in order to destroy the brushes with the longest threads; after a few months they will separate from the plants, and you can collect them with a hose;
- Increase water hardness over 8 degrees and active reaction over 7 pH with daily water change in the amount of of the total volume and daily cleaning of the aquarium soil.
Blackbeard (Compsopogon) forms branched threads on leaves of plants about 15 centimeters long. You can destroy them, if you lower the pH in the aquarium to 3.5 and add hydrochloric acid to the filter, and after 12 hours completely replace the water.
Only before lowering the pH of the fish from the aquarium is necessary to remove all.