Главная 7 Aquarium fish 7 How many need to defend the water for fish

How many need to defend the water for fish

maintenance, care, compatibility

This issue has been considered repeatedly in the forums, in the reference literature, and it would seem that it does not make sense to discuss anew how much to defend and how to fill in the water during the next substitution. In most cases, the arguments of opponents are as follows: “the longer, the better the water,” “let all the muck disappear,” “a week is needed for everything to work out.”

In this case, the aquarists are not in a hurry to justify these arguments, and water changes should be carried out regularly. Consider in detail the time interval for the preparation of water.

The main reason for this is harmful impurities that can harm the inhabitants of our aquarium. After settling, solids sometimes appear in the sediment.

Initially clear water after a while can grow turbid.

Many aquarists leave the water for substitution to breathe for a few days, and so that all harmful suspensions evaporate for a week. This assumption is partly true, but it cannot guarantee the quality of the prepared water.

Before we do something, we always know why we need to do it. By keeping tap water outside the pipeline, we are trying to improve its performance so that it does not harm our fish.

In other words, when defending water, we get rid of most of the malicious components.

Conditionally harmful substances in the water can be divided into:

  • solid (precipitates to the bottom);
  • gaseous (volatilized from water to the environment);
  • liquid (initially dissolved and remaining in water).

The process of settling can affect only solid and gaseous mixtures, and it does not affect liquid substances in any way.

Unpleasant smell of chlorine coming from freshly poured water, everyone knows. Water, being in a cup, ceases to smell after a while, and this means that chlorine molecules have evaporated.

If the fish are placed in newly recruited chlorinated water, they will die from body burns and gill petals.

Having made some observations on settling, it can be seen that chlorine evaporates quite quickly. It is not necessary to stand for water from the tap for more than a day, since the residual chlorine cannot affect the health of the fish.

The important point is the choice of dishes. The greater the area of ​​contact of water with the environment, the faster the gas exchange occurs, and chlorine disappears.

From this it follows that when settling water in a large-diameter basin, it will become suitable for an aquarium much faster than using a plastic bottle.

It is impossible to cover the used dishes with a lid and even more so to twist the bottle, since there will be no place for volatilization of gas impurities, and the water which was chlorinated will remain so.

If you pour fresh water from the tap, then you can observe a certain amount of bubbles on the walls of the tank. They are formed due to the presence of excess gases dissolved in water.

When refilling fresh water directly into the aquarium, gas compounds appear on the plants, the skin of the fish, and the aquarium.

If the fish gets an excess of gas, then bubbles form in the circulatory system, which leads to blockage of blood vessels, gas emboli and, as a result, to death.

This can happen if the aquarium fish, bringing home, immediately settle into a container with fresh water. Beginners aquarists are always warned that it is impossible to do so!

Also, the appearance of bubbles can be caused by the method of pumping water into the water supply system. Cold water pumped into the pipes under high pressure loses it sharply at the exit, and the gases evaporate into the atmosphere.

If you type this water in a glass, it will be covered in bubbles that pop up along the walls to the surface. It is necessary to defend a little.

With regular water changes in the aquarium, most likely, there will be no bubbles. Fresh and clean water does not greatly increase the number of gas-containing mixtures in the total volume, so you can not be afraid of the appearance of single bubbles on the fins of the fish.

From all of the above for gas mixtures it can be noted that:

  • chlorine poses the greatest danger;
  • upholding spend more than a day does not make sense;
  • in order to speed up the process of settling, it is necessary to provide strong aeration in the water tank (even simple mixing with a pump will significantly shorten the time for gas mixtures to exit);
  • For the use of fresh water (without upholding), you can add special components to it, which are very large in the sale, and after 10-15 minutes the liquid is suitable for adding to the aquarium.

Aquariums: how to change the water in the aquarium? How much to defend the water for the aquarium

There are three main questions that are asked by people who have recently purchased aquariums. How to change the water in the aquarium? How often do this?

And, finally, how long to defend the liquid to protect the fish from the effects of harmful substances? In this article we will try to answer these questions.

The main thing that needs to be learned by a beginner aquarist is that he does not breed fish or snails and does not grow algae, but contains a biological environment. This is not a cat or a dog.

And not even a turtle. An aquarium is a closed ecosystem, all efforts should be directed at maintaining its livelihoods.

And in a healthy environment and the inhabitants live well.

If you pour water into the tank, even if it is separated, you will not create a biological sphere that is comfortable for the fish. Moreover, being released into such a sterile environment, many inhabitants can die from shock. First you need to put the soil, plant the plants and only a week later to launch the first fish.

But even at this time it cannot be said that the hydrobiological environment is fully formed. This state is called by the connoisseurs “new aquariums”.

How to change the water in this type of aquarium? This should be done not earlier than two months after the launch of the inhabitants. The change of water can slow down all the processes of establishing balance, and in small containers it will cause a catastrophe and a massive death of fish.

It is allowed in a month to drain 10% of the water and fill it up to the previous volume with fresh water.

So, we have considered the proportions that must be adhered to so that the fluid update does not damage the biological balance of the living environment. But how to change the water? Pet stores sell special siphons (with a manual blower for pumping air or working on batteries), but these devices also have a more budgetary alternative.

Take a regular straw. It is better not to use a rubber hose – rubber emits harmful substances.

The transparent PVC tube will be optimal. Wrap one end of it with a piece of gauze.

Prepare a bucket – set it below the level of the aquarium. Dip the tip of the tube with gauze into the water, and take the second in the mouth.

Begin to draw in air until the liquid is suitable. After that, with a quick movement, lower the tip of the tube into the bucket.

Water under the laws of the pouring of the tank into the tank. You just have to control its quantity.

And with the tip of the tube with gauze, drive along the walls and the ground to remove the adhering dirt.

The amount of fluid added is not the only indicator that is important for the health of the inhabitants. The quality characteristics – temperature, salinity (for marine fish) and water hardness in the aquarium – are also of great importance. Sharp change of any indicator is a shock for the inhabitants.

For tropical fish, topped up water should be heated to a temperature of 1-2 degrees higher than that in the aquarium. The marine biosystem also needs the liquid to have the right ppm.

To do this, in distilled or reverse osmosis water for three days dissolve salts NaCI, MgSOfourx7H20, KBr, SrCl2x7H20, MgCl2x6H2O, Na2CO3, KCI, CaCl2, H3BO3, NaF and NaHCO3.

It is not a secret for anyone that not fresh spring water flows from our taps, but a liquid in which almost the entire periodic table is dissolved. It is easy to notice by conducting a simple experiment.

Take a can of water and see what happens to it over the course of a few hours. First, gaseous impurities. It would be good if it was oxygen.

Although an overabundance is unhealthy for fish. The bubbles through the gill slit penetrate the bloodstream and can provoke thrombosis. But ozone, which in some cities is used to disinfect water, is poison.

The same undesirable elements are chlorine and its compounds. It is good that the gases come out of the liquid quickly – it takes an hour.

But the limescale and rust accumulated from old water pipes, settles at the bottom of the can after 12 hours. Dissolved impurities can be neutralized with special conditioners (for example, Sera Toxivec).

Here is the answer to the question. It makes no sense to defend water for more than a day.

Everything that could precipitate or evaporate has already done so. And then the water is just beginning to fade, harmful microorganisms start in it and dust rushes in.

In what situations should be carried out a complete replacement of water

How to defend water for an aquarium :: Settling water for an aquarium :: Care and nurture

Water is the cradle of life. We are all familiar with this statement, but in the course of our evolution we learned to use such water, which is able to kill some living things – such as aquarium fish. In principle, any drinking water can be used for aquariums, but by no means mineral water.

However, only after preliminary preparation and settling. How to defend water for aquarium, so that the fish in it safely live and breed?

There are some simple rules.

The question “How does a little girl retrain to go to the tray (she is 4 months old)? “- 3 answers

1. The first thing to remember is that any fresh water — from a tap, a well, or a fish well — is not suitable. Tap water most often has a large proportion of impurities, including a large amount of chlorine.

Water from a well or well is too hard. And in any case – fresh water is always not the temperature that is necessary for the life of fish.

In principle, a small amount of water, if it is not chlorinated in your area, can be poured into the aquarium without prior preparation. However, it will be better to defend it.

2. What else water, except tap, can you use for aquariums? If you take a lake or river to fill in the aquarium water, then before use it must be heated to a temperature of +70 degrees in order to destroy unwanted microorganisms. City rain or snow is not suitable for aquariums, as it contains a large amount of harmful impurities.

The application of rain or snow water from the countryside is possible, but it should be filtered.

3. How to defend water? Pour water for aquarium in a large container with a wide neck and top with gauze.

Defend water within a few days to two weeks. The time of settling depends on the quality of water in the region where you live.

During this period, the harmful impurities in the water will decompose or evaporate. If you have just purchased an aquarium, then for the first time water can defend it.

And besides that you get defended water, you also ensure that the aquarium is not leaking.

4. How to determine that the water has settled down sufficiently? First try to replace not all water in the aquarium at once, but only one third. If the fish after such a replacement feel normal – try to replace water wholly.

Watch the fish. Some aquarists go to the trick and change water first run inexpensive fish.

And only in the case of their well-being – let the rest.

5. And finally, the last piece of advice, how to determine that water is settling well: smell water functioning dwelling for small fishes. If it smells nice freshness – everything is fine.

If the smell is unpleasant – it means something in the aquarium is wrong. Among the reasons for the unpleasant smell, except for water, which was incorrectly defended, non-compliance with the rules of care for the aquarium and dirty soil.

An aquarium with fish not only decorates the interior of any home, but also helps to relax after a hard day. Although the fish and silent, watching them is very, very interesting.

If you are thinking about whether or not to get a fish, you need to remember that you need to take care of them, and very carefully. It is necessary to choose the aquarium itself, the fish, the necessary accessories, to adjust the access of light, air, and, of course, the main point in the care of the fish is water.

Before you prepare the water for the aquarium, you need to prepare the aquarium itself for further settling with fish.

To do this, wash it thoroughly with soap or table salt, pour water into it and allow it to stand, so that all traces of the substances used to clean it are completely washed off the walls.

After the aquarium itself has been prepared, you can start decorating it with stones, soil, plants, and then pour water into it and launch fish into the aquarium to test their new home.

It is worth noting that the preparation of water for the aquarium varies depending on whether you make the aquarium with sea or running water.

In most household aquariums pour the usual running water, before it is thoroughly cleaned. Normal water contains many chemical elements and compounds that can negatively affect the life of the fish, so water must be defended for from two to seven days.

One of the main elements of this is chlorine.

To minimize the amount of chlorine in the water, pour the water into the vessel in which it will settle, with a powerful jet or with the help of a shower – this way chlorine will evaporate more quickly. You can warm the water to 70-90 degrees, and then leave it for a few days in a strong vessel.

It is worth noting that when boiling in water all microorganisms die, which can be useful for the existence of fish, therefore, dechlorinators are often used to disinfect water from chlorine – they are sold in pet shops. You can also use activated charcoal – special charcoal for the aquarium is also sold in stores.

Another adverse compound for fish life is ammonia. For the purification of water from it, a phytomethod has recently been used: a submerged rocole can absorb ammonia.

This plant is also advised to use in new aquariums – they will absorb all that is not necessary.

If you want to completely disinfect the water from all aggressive elements for the life of the fish, you can also use special filters – both at the stage of water preparation and in the future, with an already existing aquarium.

Anyway, the main thing in water preparation is its settling and its room temperature: only after that you can safely run the fish into their new home.

О admin


Check Also

Gastromizon (Gastromyzon punctulatus) – content, breeding

Gastromizon (Gastromyzon punctulatus) is a small and calm fish that can be more and more ...

Astronotus (Astronotus ocellatus) – content, breeding

Astronotus (Astronotus ocellatus) Agassiz, 1831 The fish with an unusual color has other names, synonyms: ...

Discus (Symphysodon) – types, description, content, breeding

Habitat: inhabit the basin of the upper and middle reaches of the Amazon. Keeps in ...

Metinnis Silver Dollar – description, content, breeding

Family: Characteristic (Characidae).Subfamily: Piranha (Serrasalminae).Genus: Metinnis (Metynnis) – in all types of conditions of detention, ...

Synodontis mnogopyatnisty (Synodontis multipunctatus) – content, breeding

Synodontis mnogopyatnisty (Synodontis multipunctatus) Boulenger, 1898. Synodontis: from the Greek syn – “together” and odontos, ...

Tsichlazoma Severum (Heros efasciatus) – content, breeding

Cychlasoma Severum (Heros efasciatus) Heckel, 1840 Family: Cichlids (Cichlidae) Other names / Synonyms: Severum, Severum ...

Guppy (Poecilia reticulata) – description, content, breeding

Guppy (Poecilia reticulata) – viviparous aquarium fish. Order: Cyprinodontiformes (Cyprinodontiformes).Family: Pecilia (Poeciliidae). They inhabit the ...

Aulonocara (Aulonocara) – description, content, breeding

Aulonocara (Aulonocara) or otherwise African Akara – freshwater tropical fish belonging to the family of ...

Goldfish (Carassius auratus) – types, description, content

Goldfish (Carassius auratus auratus) Linne, 1758.Carp family (Cyprinidae). The first information about a goldfish was ...

Microcollection Measure (Boraras merah) – content, breeding

Micro costing measure (Boraras merah) Kottelat (Maurice Kottela), 1991 It belongs to the smallest aquarium ...

Synodontis Eupterus (Synodontis eupterus) – content, breeding

Synodontis Eupterus or Vualevy Synodontis (Synodontis eupterus) Boulenger / Bulendzher, 1901 The name comes from ...

Cichlid Parrot (Cichlid Parrot) – content, breeding

Parrot (Cichlasoma sp.) – bright, elegant fish with unusual outlines of the body. The maximum ...

Badis Badis (Badis badis) – description, content, breeding

Badis Badis or Fish chameleon (Badis badis) HAMILTON, 1822 The Latin name for the fish ...

Iriaterina Werner (Iriatherina werneri) – content, breeding

Iriaterina Werner – Iriatherina werneri Representatives of the fresh waters of Australia and nearby islands ...

Micro spotting spotted (Boraras maculatus) – content, breeding

Micro spotting spotted (Boraras maculatus) It was introduced to Europe more than 100 years ago, ...

Scalar (Pterophyllum scalare) – description, content, breeding

Scalpel (Pterophyllum scalare) Lichtenstein, 1823.Family Cichl – Cichlidae. Habitat: Inhabit the region of South America, ...

Black phantom (Hyphessobrycon megalopterus) – content, breeding

Family: Characteristic (Characidae). Habitats Central Brazil, the basin of the river Rio Guaporé forest forests ...

Barbus eight-strip (Eirmotus octozona) – content, breeding

Eight-bar / 8-bar glass barbus (Eirmotus octozona) SCHULTZ 1959 It was first described by Leonard ...

Iriaterina Werner family of iris – description, content

Iriaterina Werner (Iriatherina werneri) family of iris or melanotinyh – description, necessary parameters of the ...

Neon blue (Paracheirodon innesi) – content, breeding

Neon blue or ordinary (Paracheirodon innesi) Myers, 1936. Refers to the order Cyprinids (Cypriniformes), sub-order ...

Glass catfish (Kryptopterus vitreolus) – content, dilution

Glass catfish (Kryptopterus vitreolus) NG KOTTELAT, 2013. Previously mistakenly identified as (Kryptopterus bicirrhis). Kryptopterus: from ...

Eleotris carpet (Tateurndina ocellicauda) – content, breeding

Eleotris carpet / Peacock goby (Tateurndina ocellicauda) Nichols / Nichols, 1955 Family Golovoshkovye (Eleotridae). Carpet ...

Pelvicachromis pulcher (Pelvicachromis pulcher) – content, breeding

Pelvicahromis pulcher or Parrot (Pelvicachromis pulcher) – the most beautiful and therefore the most popular ...

Barbus Denison (Puntius denisonii) – content, breeding

Barbus Denison (Puntius denisonii) was first described in 1865, but became known only in 1997 ...